3.5 Swap midrange LOSS!!
09-18-2008, 05:27 AM
#81
yea, i think i actually broke the gear.. was going through the gears, didnt even go to 3rd hard, as soon as it got in, i heard a crack and pop and the rpms shot up.. took it out of 3rd, put it back in..Car acted as if it was in neutral.
Ill look around for you, i think i might
Ill look around for you, i think i might
09-22-2008, 12:51 PM
#88
09-22-2008, 02:30 PM
#89
ok..that's happening when I rev it in neutral so I expect it to do the same under load...guess its not the afpr
*sigh*
maybe it is exhaust leak, flexpipe is busted and I believe its leaking between the manifold and ypipe
*sigh*
maybe it is exhaust leak, flexpipe is busted and I believe its leaking between the manifold and ypipe
10-23-2008, 02:50 PM
#90
UPDATE!
got the car back on the road and still suffer from the loss.
I've recently changed 6 of the coilpacks for another set.
Knock sensor & knock sensor harness.all 6 injectors to 290cc DE-K injectors and no new codes.
but I ask this. What are some ways to check a coilpack that's on the way out? With the IGN on and engine off, they all show the same reading with the ohm meter but still worried that 1 might be slightly failing
got the car back on the road and still suffer from the loss.
I've recently changed 6 of the coilpacks for another set.
Knock sensor & knock sensor harness.all 6 injectors to 290cc DE-K injectors and no new codes.
but I ask this. What are some ways to check a coilpack that's on the way out? With the IGN on and engine off, they all show the same reading with the ohm meter but still worried that 1 might be slightly failing
10-23-2008, 09:04 PM
#92
Do you have a cat on there?( may be clogged)
Check your plugs gap & for signs of fouling or detination.
Man I would disconnect one coil @ a time to see if there is a significant change in performance during idle & under load.
I dont know how old the fuel filter is but I would replace/ bypass that too.
Check your plugs gap & for signs of fouling or detination.
Man I would disconnect one coil @ a time to see if there is a significant change in performance during idle & under load.
I dont know how old the fuel filter is but I would replace/ bypass that too.
10-23-2008, 10:12 PM
#93
Do you have a cat on there?( may be clogged)
Check your plugs gap & for signs of fouling or detination.
Man I would disconnect one coil @ a time to see if there is a significant change in performance during idle & under load.
I dont know how old the fuel filter is but I would replace/ bypass that too.
Check your plugs gap & for signs of fouling or detination.
Man I would disconnect one coil @ a time to see if there is a significant change in performance during idle & under load.
I dont know how old the fuel filter is but I would replace/ bypass that too.
^^listen to the master mechanic disconnect the cat (run open y pipe) get a 95 300zx Fuel Filter get some NGK Iridium IX plugs (or some v-power ones for the time being gap them properly please) and get one rear coil and try it on each cylinder until you find the bad coil
10-24-2008, 07:08 AM
#94
ill try swap a rear coil at a time. I already have new vpower plugs,gutted cat and 300zx fuel filter.
I believe when I checked the coilpacks though, they all came in between 1.4-1.7ohms but ill check again
I believe when I checked the coilpacks though, they all came in between 1.4-1.7ohms but ill check again
10-25-2008, 07:06 AM
#98
Actually I take that back here is my original log
but it didnt cause anything like what the OP is experiencing.
Last edited by chillin014; 10-25-2008 at 07:24 AM.
10-25-2008, 10:04 AM
#99
10-25-2008, 12:14 PM
#100
A dynotune will allow you to see what afr your setu likes...
high 12's low 13's is good for a N/A car.
He doesnt need a dyno tune. All he needs is a wideband & some open road.
3rd gear
Partial throttle from 2krpm till redline
4th gear
Wot from 2kish 40mph ish to red line
Otherwise dont post a thred with little to no info on the "setup" & expect a miracle to happen....
high 12's low 13's is good for a N/A car.
Mine was in the 11's and 12's. I was hoping it'd be lower so I could see more of a gain since supposedly some n/a guys RUN theirs in the 12's. What irritates me is that you have to get a dyno tune to really find out what the motor wants to run at..so I could very well have negligible gains after tuning my A/F to 13.5 from high 11's and 12's.
Actually I take that back here is my original log
but it didnt cause anything like what the OP is experiencing.
Actually I take that back here is my original log
but it didnt cause anything like what the OP is experiencing.
3rd gear
Partial throttle from 2krpm till redline
4th gear
Wot from 2kish 40mph ish to red line
Otherwise dont post a thred with little to no info on the "setup" & expect a miracle to happen....
10-25-2008, 12:34 PM
#101
dyno tuning is safe compared to running on the street and trying to read ur afr's and watch the road at the same time. but at the same time you will not get the same afr's on the dyno as u will on the street. the car will run a tad bit leaner on the street. this thread goes ftl, the 4th gen 5.5 swap/run ratio is crap..
10-25-2008, 12:57 PM
#102
dyno tuning is safe compared to running on the street and trying to read ur afr's and watch the road at the same time. but at the same time you will not get the same afr's on the dyno as u will on the street. the car will run a tad bit leaner on the street. this thread goes ftl, the 4th gen 5.5 swap/run ratio is crap..
Street tuning by yourself without a dataloger is hard.This is why you bring someone along to make the corrections while you drive.
Me & a local member have swaps that run strong(right)
I def understand why sooo many 3.5 swaps are crap.
Its nowhere near plug & play
10-28-2008, 09:28 PM
#104
Well, I unplugged the CPS(REF) sensor today and the car ran WAAAAAAYYYYYY better!
from anywhere in 1st gear, it spun the 20"s over with NO problem.
I have a afpr and 255lph pump and DEK injectors but no afc anymore. Currently unemployed so Dyno will have to hold off for a little.
Im not getting a code for the CPS, but still trying to figure out why it runs sooo much better unplugged. Grapped 2 good sensors today from the junkyard and theyre showing 520ohms. Im going to check the sensor on the car and the harness tomorrow to see if anythings wrong.
Pmohr had told me it might not throw a code but will send the wrong signals to the ECU so, we'll see.
Hopefully its not ignition timing related.
But as stated, the car feel as good now as it did when i 1st got it.
now(ssim, 290cc injectos,afpr,255lph,stock ecu,20"s,2-12" subs)
1st runs(JWT ecu,stock wheels, no subs or any of the above mods)
from anywhere in 1st gear, it spun the 20"s over with NO problem.
I have a afpr and 255lph pump and DEK injectors but no afc anymore. Currently unemployed so Dyno will have to hold off for a little.
Im not getting a code for the CPS, but still trying to figure out why it runs sooo much better unplugged. Grapped 2 good sensors today from the junkyard and theyre showing 520ohms. Im going to check the sensor on the car and the harness tomorrow to see if anythings wrong.
Pmohr had told me it might not throw a code but will send the wrong signals to the ECU so, we'll see.
Hopefully its not ignition timing related.
But as stated, the car feel as good now as it did when i 1st got it.
now(ssim, 290cc injectos,afpr,255lph,stock ecu,20"s,2-12" subs)
1st runs(JWT ecu,stock wheels, no subs or any of the above mods)
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