@ajcool2
I can always go back to using the 5th gen IACV if in the future, it turns out to be a better route. But I guess for now since I already have the adapter plate, I'll use it for simplicity sake.

@mowgli29
I'm calling up Nissan and seeing if they have the gaskets in stock. I'm hoping I can get it done in a day since it's my daily car. But if needed, I can wait til the weekend to start if I feel that I need more time.

Plus, if I keep holding off, I can pick up a set of the 00VI spacer kit that Aaron is making and install it all at once.

 

No I left the whole assy that bolts to the fpr which is the fuel line and follow that until it turns into a rubber hose.

 

I thought the front one was a fuel damper and the rear one is the FPR. The stock 4th gen has a built in fuel damper somewhere in the lines and the 5th gen fuel rail has it on the rail itself.

 

I may be wrong and usually am but even though fuel dampners sometimes look like fpr's they never have vacuum going to them because they have no need for vacuum to control what they do which is to smooth out pressure spikes from the pump output using hydraulics. I assume they have two fpr's to better regulate fuel pressure for both banks more accurately which makes me wonder where would it be on the newer max's or did they just do away with it.

 

Some evening browsing at Home Depot since I didn't get a chance to run to Nissan before they closed today.

I'm sure one of these will work to bypass the coolent on the 5th gen throttle body. They also have in addition a smaller size (1/4") and a larger size (5/8").

[edit]^^^ I didn't uses any of those since I just re-ran the lines so no need for these adapters to bypass the coolent.

Then I found some of these which I can use to attached to the UIM for the IACV adapter. The right one looks huge to drill a 5/8" hole.


Could I just cut off one of the stock nipple on the UIM near the throttle body and drill out a hole there to attach the adapter?

 

Alright... more delay in the install. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find a drill and tap set that will work for 1/2" brass pipe fitting.

Could I get away with using T-Tap's and tapping into the brake booster for both the IACV and EVAP?

 

You should be able to find what you need at the local hardware store. The bad news: it won't be cheap.

I found the correct tap in the plumbing section: 1/2-14 NPT. The tap says use a 45/64 drill bit. I ended up borrowing a step bit and drilling it out to 5/8 I think. I paid ~15 for the tap and had I bought the step bit, it would have been 20-30. Oh, and that's after spending ~40 on the WRONG tap AND bit from ebay

You'll probably have to spend 40-50 to get the tap and bit. I paid about 55-60 and it was SOOOOOO worth it!

As for the T-taps...it's not ideal, but it will work. I'd say do it for now and re-visit the "big hose for IACV" project once you get the tools.


Oh and btw, the nipple on the right is a 5/8 nipple and 3/4 hole....which is why it looks huge, lol. Basically you want the one on the left, but with a bigger barbed end (nipple). IDR what mine was....but the threads were about the same diameter as the barbed end...I want to say it was 1/2 threads and 5/8 or 3/4 nipple, but I'm not positive. I'll check it out and make sure.

Also, there wasn't really anywhere to cut off a nipple and enlarge the hole....I just plugged the nipples I wasn't using and drilled a completely new hole right behind the throttle body. I was nervous, but it turned out awesome.

 

The brass fitting I was using says 1/4" MIP. The guy at Sears says to use a 1/2"-13 tap. It later turns out to be a 1/2"-18 when I actually measured the thread size.

I will be measuring how much vacuum the stock brake booster has and during the install, I'll see if it falls within the same psi. If it doesn't work this way, then I can drill and tap for the brass fitting.

By the way, is that the size you used when you upgraded the fitting (1/2-14 NPT) or was it only the hose? There were bigger fittings (last pic on post #45) but I would be having a much harder time finding a drill & tap size.

 

You shouldn't have any problems with the whole brake booster setup...everything will work fine, just the IACV won't be able to suck enough air.

Here's my tap: http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com...67.html?ref=42

and bit:http://www.contractorstoolsupply.com...34-p-4247.html

I'm 99% sure the fitting was 3/4" barb and 1/2"MPT (threads). The 1/2" threads on the fitting required the 1/2-14NPT tap. (1/2 being the diameter and 14 being the thread pitch.)

 

This is essentially what my fitting looks like: http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?...F&WT.mc_id=gb1

notice how each end appears to be the same size, neither looks bigger. small threads (1/2") and big nipple (3/4")

 

So you did end up using a pretty beefy fitting for the IACV. But isn't the barb on the IACV adapter plate still small?

edit.. I think one of the earlier post, you mention putting a bigger fitting on both. Makes me want to use the stock 5th gen IACV now. I know it'll save me a lot more $$$ but I guess all the hassle will be worth it?

 

correct. I just drilled, tapped, and installed that fitting in the adapter plate as well.

edit to repond to your edit: you can do what you want. I'm more than pleased with my setup, even considering the time and money invested in the 4th gen IACV setup.
Our ECU was meant to communicate with the 4th gen IACV using all three connectors. So as long as the IACV can breathe well enough, it should be just like stock.
The 5th gen IACV on the other hand, was designed for use with the 5th gen ECU and doesn't utilize 2 of the 3 connectors the 4th gen does. Even though some say their 5th gen IACV idles fine...I can't see how it would be as good as a properly plumbed 4th gen IACV. Nissan didn't put those other 2 connectors there for nothing...(they are used to compensate for a/c and power steering load)

 

I'd believe it! I used that SAME fitting on a project that involved a functioning EGR on a 4.5 gen. It's to bad you weren't in a rush, I haven't used that god damn $30 ****ing tap since then!

 

what's the tap size you're referring to? he should only need a 1/2-14NPT. that 5/8 fitting is bigger than he needs. but I hear you on $30 one-time use taps... I wish I had another use for it!

 

Since you're not using that tap anymore, can I borrow it? JK

I'm going to try and start the install sometime this week when I get a chance. I want to see if it can run off the same vac. on the brake booster successfuly and if not, I'll have to drill and tap.

Do I need to enlarge the fitting for the EVAP as well or could it use the stock fitting size?

 

I thought I already said this....it will work, but not near as well as drilling and tapping for the larger fitting. If you want it to run right, you'll HAVE to drill and tap eventually. but whatever, you already know my opinion on the matter, so I guess I should stop repeating myself

also, IIRC, the EVAP will fit fine with the nipples that are on the 00VI. no need to install bigger ones.

 

Yes I know you've been telling me over and over. I guess I need to acutally do the swap and see it why it isn't the best method. Time to get that drill bit or borrow one from a friend. "Do it once, do it right" I guess. Maybe I should hold off for the 00VI spacer kit as well...

Thank you for your help. I really do appreciate it.

 

Finally, I started doing the swap this evening. So far everything is going smoothly minus 1 broken EGR Temp clip. That clip is annyoing! Then taking off the 4th gen throttle body (especially the coolent lines) was a pain. And the 4th gen IACV, why is one of the bolt almost impossible to access (upper right bolt)? Who thought up of that bad design?

So far 3 hours in and the UIM and LIM is still untouched. I'll start on those tomorrow morning. The vacuum lines is pretty easy if you leave all of them in place [reference incase you pulled them all out]. I understand all but one of them now.

What do you do with the vacuum line from the bottom of the 4th gen throttle body? I believe it is coming from the EGRC-solenoid valve. Where do I put the vacuum since the 5th gen doesn't have a vac. on the throttle body. In Ceasar's thread, it is the blue circled hose. He put a screw in it to block it since he was no longer using the EGR but I plan on using it so what do I do with it?

[answer] run it to a nipple on the UIM near the throttle body.

 

IT'S ALIVE! Got it to start on the first try. It was having a hard time idling but that was because I forgot to put a nipple cover on one of the nipples near the throttle body . Once that was done it ran pretty smoothly too. There is some rough idle when coming to a stop and sitting for a little bit. The RPM dropped down to 500 but I guess I can fix that by upping the idle on the throttle body and playing with the IACV. I definity feel the power kick in once the VIAS opens up . WahoOO... Thank you all for the help; especially mowgli29. Thank you.

 

this is a nice thread. sticky!!

 

Thanks man. I also updated some information and some more pictures too. Hopefully this will clear up a lot of information out there and cut down the research needed.

Tips: Get lots and lots of hoses. I made roughly 6 trips to O'Reilly Auto Part during the weekend project.
~6 feet of the smaller vacuum hoses (same size as on vacuum gallery).
~6+ feet of the similiar size for rear valve cover to UIM (don't know the exact sizes off the top of my head).
2 feet of the same size for the intake to front valve cover.
2 feet for the front valve cover to rear valve cover
2 feet of FUEL LINE HOSES. Make sure it says for fuel injection!
Possibly more hoses?
Hose clamps! You would need 4 for just the fuel line part. More if you need them elsewhere; ie coolent lines.
Vacuum nipple cover? I only needed one to cover one of the nipples near the TB. on the UIM.

*Fuel injector cleaner (optional. I soaked the bottom of my injectors for a little bit to help clean them up. I pour the rest of the bottle in my tank so it's not like you're wasting it).
*Throttle body cleaner (optional. To clean up my throttle body? lol)

I got away without using any vacuum T's but it all depends on how you setup your vacuum lines.

Heat Shrink Tubing (for soldering the injector harness and any other wiring; ie: VIAS to RPM switch)
*Misc. extra wires to extend RPM switch and power the VIAS.

Home Depot/Lowes are great at theses:
My rear valve cover didnt have the stock spacers on there so I had to put a stack of 3 washers on each of the bolts that hold down the rear valve cover. (3 washers each x 10 bolts = 30 washers total)
New hex bolts for the custom IACV blockoff plate. The stock screws were too long and were getting in the way of the 4 bolts to hold the TB in. And a set of washers for each of the 5 hex bolts. You only need to replace the 4 corners but might as well replace them all?


Best advice... LABEL EVERYTHING hoses/plugs you pull out. It makes it MUCH easier to reassemble. I thought all the vacuum was going to be a blur but this made it so much easier.

Good luck to all in doing this swap!

 

More tips:
Yes there are 2 bolts that old down the BACK of the stock UIM.
Yes there is a coolent line running to the back of the stock UIM and just passes by for no apparent reason? I ended up cutting it as it was a lot easier than trying to remove the clamp and pulling off that hose.

Taking off the stock EGR guide tube was a HUGE PAIN!!! To me, that was the hardest/fustrating part. Tight places plus bolts you can't see = FTL!

Use the 5th gen throttle cable adapter plate. I couldn't figure out how to mount the 4th gen properly and luckly, I had the 5th gen plate to use so problem solved!

[I'll add more if I can think of any.]