grey99max building another 3.5
09-10-2010, 02:18 PM
#361
word.And sorry to clutter the thread but I got a quick question. Since the safeguard is intercepting the coil wires, I'm assuming the coil pack harness wires from the EU not hooked up to your car now since the EU isnt doing anything with timing? If so, does this limit the EU in anyway as far as monitoring/dataloging goes since it cant see what the coilpacks are doing anymore?
09-10-2010, 02:24 PM
#362
word.And sorry to clutter the thread but I got a quick question. Since the safeguard is intercepting the coil wires, I'm assuming the coil pack harness wires from the EU not hooked up to your car now since the EU isnt doing anything with timing? If so, does this limit the EU in anyway as far as monitoring/dataloging goes since it cant see what the coilpacks are doing anymore?
If you had the EU fully working with ignition, it would be first, then the JS after. So basically you can still retard and advance timing with the EU, then that signal is sent through the JS and into the coils, only if the JS picks up knock will it delay the signal going through it. For me I find the JS to be enough for my application so I dont bother hooking up the EU to alter timing (since I have no need to advance).
09-10-2010, 02:29 PM
#363
In MY setup, I can still log the timing through the EU, I have a T on every wire going to the EU. However you only see the timing that the ECU is putting out, not the real timing thats being altered after.
If you had the EU fully working with ignition, it would be first, then the JS after. So basically you can still retard and advance timing with the EU, then that signal is sent through the JS and into the coils, only if the JS picks up knock will it delay the signal going through it. For me I find the JS to be enough for my application so I dont bother hooking up the EU to alter timing (since I have no need to advance).
If you had the EU fully working with ignition, it would be first, then the JS after. So basically you can still retard and advance timing with the EU, then that signal is sent through the JS and into the coils, only if the JS picks up knock will it delay the signal going through it. For me I find the JS to be enough for my application so I dont bother hooking up the EU to alter timing (since I have no need to advance).
back on topic...
09-10-2010, 03:01 PM
#365
A good tune is always good, but when dealing with FI, there are so many variables that can change suddenly that can be catastrophic if it isn't realized in time. This is a device that can take one of the many dangers of tuning (especially forced induction) off your mind.
09-10-2010, 03:30 PM
#366
But thats the thing, its not random. It actually does allow you to run as much timing as possible while still protecting your motor. The perfect balance between power and safety for your motor.
A good tune is always good, but when dealing with FI, there are so many variables that can change suddenly that can be catastrophic if it isn't realized in time. This is a device that can take one of the many dangers of tuning (especially forced induction) off your mind.
A good tune is always good, but when dealing with FI, there are so many variables that can change suddenly that can be catastrophic if it isn't realized in time. This is a device that can take one of the many dangers of tuning (especially forced induction) off your mind.
don't forget I am boosted too nitrous and turbo but it doesn't matter cause Harold will and has always done his own thing
Last edited by t6378tp; 09-10-2010 at 03:32 PM.
09-11-2010, 07:00 PM
#367
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In MY setup, I can still log the timing through the EU, I have a T on every wire going to the EU. However you only see the timing that the ECU is putting out, not the real timing thats being altered after.
If you had the EU fully working with ignition, it would be first, then the JS after. So basically you can still retard and advance timing with the EU, then that signal is sent through the JS and into the coils, only if the JS picks up knock will it delay the signal going through it. For me I find the JS to be enough for my application so I dont bother hooking up the EU to alter timing (since I have no need to advance).
If you had the EU fully working with ignition, it would be first, then the JS after. So basically you can still retard and advance timing with the EU, then that signal is sent through the JS and into the coils, only if the JS picks up knock will it delay the signal going through it. For me I find the JS to be enough for my application so I dont bother hooking up the EU to alter timing (since I have no need to advance).
Wow - I leave this thread for a while, and it heats up here !! It's all good - a healthy discussion is great for learning stuff. I was wondering how streetz had things connected, and now I know. If I stay nitrous only, then I won't need to retard ignition, but if I want to play with NA tuning, then I should be able to advance timing, right? So if I do what streetz says and connect the ECU coil signals through the EU and then through the J&S, then I could advance timing too much and still be protected from any knock?
Does the J&S have its own knock sensor? The home page says that, I think... If so, then I could block out the OEM knock sensor with a resistor, taking the OEM ECU out of the equation, and still be protected from knock? Then I could play with NA tuning using the EU and revert back to nitrous tuning when that time comes. Does the J&S do a good job of recording any pulled timing? If all this is true, then with the J&S enabled to pull lots of timing, then I could use the right setup to determine the correct ignition timing for NA, for nitrous, and eventually for a RMT installation, and not trash this engine.
And I still can use my tape to adjust A/F...
Last edited by grey99max; 09-11-2010 at 07:22 PM.
09-11-2010, 10:08 PM
#368
Wow - I leave this thread for a while, and it heats up here !! It's all good - a healthy discussion is great for learning stuff. I was wondering how streetz had things connected, and now I know. If I stay nitrous only, then I won't need to retard ignition, but if I want to play with NA tuning, then I should be able to advance timing, right? So if I do what streetz says and connect the ECU coil signals through the EU and then through the J&S, then I could advance timing too much and still be protected from any knock?
Does the J&S have its own knock sensor? The home page says that, I think... If so, then I could block out the OEM knock sensor with a resistor, taking the OEM ECU out of the equation, and still be protected from knock? Then I could play with NA tuning using the EU and revert back to nitrous tuning when that time comes. Does the J&S do a good job of recording any pulled timing? If all this is true, then with the J&S enabled to pull lots of timing, then I could use the right setup to determine the correct ignition timing for NA, for nitrous, and eventually for a RMT installation, and not trash this engine.
And I still can use my tape to adjust A/F...
Does the J&S have its own knock sensor? The home page says that, I think... If so, then I could block out the OEM knock sensor with a resistor, taking the OEM ECU out of the equation, and still be protected from knock? Then I could play with NA tuning using the EU and revert back to nitrous tuning when that time comes. Does the J&S do a good job of recording any pulled timing? If all this is true, then with the J&S enabled to pull lots of timing, then I could use the right setup to determine the correct ignition timing for NA, for nitrous, and eventually for a RMT installation, and not trash this engine.
And I still can use my tape to adjust A/F...
The JS does not have a way to log (not sure if the new unit does, it has alot more features though), however how I tune my timing is that I advance it (to me advancing = getting it closer to stock) till the gauge starts lighting up, once i see it light up, I lower the timing slightly then do another run till no more light. Technically you can advance the hell out of it, and just let the KS deal with keeping knock away, but you'll constantly be seeing the gauge light up, and not really the best way to tune, so its better to tune so that the J&S dosnt have to retard unless something odd happens such as bad gas, extra load on the engine (such as more weight in car, etc..).
Confused about what you said, that you wont need to retard timing if you stay with nitrous only. You plan to run the higher compression with tons of nitrous/meth, and not retard timing? If thats the case then you NEED the J&S, to make sure you dont knock.
09-12-2010, 05:04 PM
#370
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You can hook up a knock sensor directly to the JS. I have my ECU's KS sensor grounded with a resistor like you said, so ECU thinks it has a KS(I actually cut the sensors wire at the ECU).
The JS does not have a way to log (not sure if the new unit does, it has alot more features though), however how I tune my timing is that I advance it (to me advancing = getting it closer to stock) till the gauge starts lighting up, once i see it light up, I lower the timing slightly then do another run till no more light. Technically you can advance the hell out of it, and just let the KS deal with keeping knock away, but you'll constantly be seeing the gauge light up, and not really the best way to tune, so its better to tune so that the J&S dosnt have to retard unless something odd happens such as bad gas, extra load on the engine (such as more weight in car, etc..).
Confused about what you said, that you wont need to retard timing if you stay with nitrous only. You plan to run the higher compression with tons of nitrous/meth, and not retard timing? If thats the case then you NEED the J&S, to make sure you dont knock.
The JS does not have a way to log (not sure if the new unit does, it has alot more features though), however how I tune my timing is that I advance it (to me advancing = getting it closer to stock) till the gauge starts lighting up, once i see it light up, I lower the timing slightly then do another run till no more light. Technically you can advance the hell out of it, and just let the KS deal with keeping knock away, but you'll constantly be seeing the gauge light up, and not really the best way to tune, so its better to tune so that the J&S dosnt have to retard unless something odd happens such as bad gas, extra load on the engine (such as more weight in car, etc..).
Confused about what you said, that you wont need to retard timing if you stay with nitrous only. You plan to run the higher compression with tons of nitrous/meth, and not retard timing? If thats the case then you NEED the J&S, to make sure you dont knock.
From what the pros say, spraying with nitrous and straight methanol combined really reduces the knock factor, to where you can use stock timing with a large shot. It's recommended that you either run the engine on gas and mix nitrous with methanol, or the other way around. If you run the engine AND spray nitrous with pure methanol, chances are that the combustion is too cool to fire off the nitrous.
Yes, I figure that I still will need the J&S to handle any unexpected knock, even after good tuning. I hope.
Last edited by grey99max; 09-12-2010 at 05:13 PM.
09-12-2010, 05:11 PM
#371
Ehh, I wouldnt go by that at all man. You cant use the same timing for example spraying 300 shot with meth vs. spraying 50shot with meth. You always have to look for knock and make sure your safe.
09-12-2010, 05:20 PM
#374
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I kinda know nitrous - I don't know turbos. I figure that if I get a methanol fuel cell to mix with lots of nitrous and survive the experience, then I can transition to a RMT and inject methanol instead of gas - even race gas- and turbo up the engine and fuel it with pure methanol - and no intercooler. People do this. I want to as a long-term plan. Plus I can spool it up with nitrous...
With the EU and J&S installed, I would have great control and knock control available. That's another learning experience.
Last edited by grey99max; 09-12-2010 at 05:24 PM.
09-12-2010, 05:57 PM
#375
I kinda know nitrous - I don't know turbos. I figure that if I get a methanol fuel cell to mix with lots of nitrous and survive the experience, then I can transition to a RMT and inject methanol instead of gas - even race gas- and turbo up the engine and fuel it with pure methanol - and no intercooler. People do this. I want to as a long-term plan. Plus I can spool it up with nitrous...
With the EU and J&S installed, I would have great control and knock control available. That's another learning experience.
With the EU and J&S installed, I would have great control and knock control available. That's another learning experience.
btw, how soon do you plan on hitting the track
My other toy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kf-fD8QWb1E
09-12-2010, 06:08 PM
#376
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or you can just go old skool sbc, carb and nitrous, LOL
btw, how soon do you plan on hitting the track
My other toy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kf-fD8QWb1E
btw, how soon do you plan on hitting the track
My other toy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kf-fD8QWb1E
I just bought this for a playtoy - and measurements. Cheap, for new....
*NEW** HOLSET DODGE CUMMINS TURBO HE351 VE DIESEL 6.7L
Item condition: New
Compatibility: This information is not available.
Ended: Sep 12, 201018:00:00 PDT
Bid history:
9 bids
Winning bid: US $255.00
Shipping: $56.42 UPS Ground
I'm going to finish up the elbow spray hookup and soon as I get the rest of the parts (hoses, Y-adapters), and then go track it with a 70-shot. Should be educational..
I like your "other toy". Any track times??
Last edited by grey99max; 09-12-2010 at 06:20 PM.
09-12-2010, 06:36 PM
#377
Oh man, don't temp me. A Merlin III is more my style, but hey, I have a Maxima.
I just bought this for a playtoy - and measurements. Cheap, for new....
*NEW** HOLSET DODGE CUMMINS TURBO HE351 VE DIESEL 6.7L
Item condition: New
Compatibility: This information is not available.
Ended: Sep 12, 201018:00:00 PDT
Bid history:
9 bids
Winning bid: US $255.00
Shipping: $56.42 UPS Ground
I'm going to finish up the elbow spray hookup and soon as I get the rest of the parts (hoses, Y-adapters), and then go track it with a 70-shot. Should be educational..
I like your "other toy". Any track times??
I just bought this for a playtoy - and measurements. Cheap, for new....
*NEW** HOLSET DODGE CUMMINS TURBO HE351 VE DIESEL 6.7L
Item condition: New
Compatibility: This information is not available.
Ended: Sep 12, 201018:00:00 PDT
Bid history:
9 bids
Winning bid: US $255.00
Shipping: $56.42 UPS Ground
I'm going to finish up the elbow spray hookup and soon as I get the rest of the parts (hoses, Y-adapters), and then go track it with a 70-shot. Should be educational..
I like your "other toy". Any track times??
I ran a high 12's with a bone stock 350 out of a early 80's c10 van on juice while I was getting this monster built. No track times yet as it was too hot this summer and I got caught up playing with the maxima but I am looking to run 11's on the motor, 10's on a small shot and high 9's on a 250-300shot
teaser pic of the new motor
09-12-2010, 06:49 PM
#378
Oh man, don't temp me. A Merlin III is more my style, but hey, I have a Maxima.
I just bought this for a playtoy - and measurements. Cheap, for new....
*NEW** HOLSET DODGE CUMMINS TURBO HE351 VE DIESEL 6.7L
Item condition: New
Compatibility: This information is not available.
Ended: Sep 12, 201018:00:00 PDT
Bid history:
9 bids
Winning bid: US $255.00
Shipping: $56.42 UPS Ground
I'm going to finish up the elbow spray hookup and soon as I get the rest of the parts (hoses, Y-adapters), and then go track it with a 70-shot. Should be educational..
I like your "other toy". Any track times??
I just bought this for a playtoy - and measurements. Cheap, for new....
*NEW** HOLSET DODGE CUMMINS TURBO HE351 VE DIESEL 6.7L
Item condition: New
Compatibility: This information is not available.
Ended: Sep 12, 201018:00:00 PDT
Bid history:
9 bids
Winning bid: US $255.00
Shipping: $56.42 UPS Ground
I'm going to finish up the elbow spray hookup and soon as I get the rest of the parts (hoses, Y-adapters), and then go track it with a 70-shot. Should be educational..
I like your "other toy". Any track times??
09-12-2010, 08:26 PM
#379
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Nicee, that should be a real quick spooling turbo. You should have let me know you were looking for one, I would have given you a few suggestions. But good find, I payed about the same thing for a brand new HX35, however that turbo failed on me for reasons still unknown. Another person bought a brand new one and also failed. So either they need some kind of break in procedure, preoiling, or something.
09-12-2010, 08:28 PM
#380
It's something to play with... I need some hands-on time with a complete turbo before I can get serious. It was an impulse buy tonight. I'll be doing the EU and then the J&S first. That will take me into the winter, I think - and nothing happens then. Next spring we can have more serious conversations.
09-21-2010, 07:52 PM
#381
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http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1424.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1423.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1421.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1420.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1427.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1428.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1430.jpg
And my -6AN fuel rails with G35 injectors installed:
Last edited by grey99max; 09-21-2010 at 08:02 PM.
09-21-2010, 08:07 PM
#383
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09-22-2010, 06:39 AM
#386
Here's pix of my impulse-buy Holset HE351VE turbo. Apparently Holset makes a HE451 and HE551 turbos as well.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1424.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1423.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1421.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1420.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1427.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1428.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1430.jpg
And my -6AN fuel rails with G35 injectors installed:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1424.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1423.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1421.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1420.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1427.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1428.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1430.jpg
And my -6AN fuel rails with G35 injectors installed:
09-22-2010, 08:27 AM
#387
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Thats a nice piece of machine, if you end up using this turbo, should be interesting on how it performs with the VGT functioning, your going to need some reference to activate it. If you do end up wanting to switch to a different turbo for simplicity, id recommend the HX40 (6 blade compressor wheel), the hx35 runs out of efficiency around high 300whp in our motors although it wont matter for you since you have nitrous as well.
The vane concept is appealing - the turbo can be throttled down for low exhaust flows and throttled up for high flows. Full boost at 2000 has some appeal. I dunno yet... how much turbo would I need for this 3.5 at 8000 RPM, do you suppose?
09-22-2010, 09:05 AM
#388
I suspect it will be a paperweight eventually - I think it's too small for an all-out build, but I haven't studied the few maps that I could find - and I wouldn't yet know what they meant. Actually, the controller has been cracked and information is posted on other forums. One person wound up using a R/C motor controller attached to the internal servo motor, the one that moves the vanes in and out. Another used a mechanical lever to move vanes with a bidirectional actuator. I gotta dissect the turbo and take pix.
The vane concept is appealing - the turbo can be throttled down for low exhaust flows and throttled up for high flows. Full boost at 2000 has some appeal. I dunno yet... how much turbo would I need for this 3.5 at 8000 RPM, do you suppose?
The vane concept is appealing - the turbo can be throttled down for low exhaust flows and throttled up for high flows. Full boost at 2000 has some appeal. I dunno yet... how much turbo would I need for this 3.5 at 8000 RPM, do you suppose?
I would just check to see what the supra's and hal from 350z are using since they are reving in the 8k range
09-22-2010, 12:00 PM
#389
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Something with the spec's of a T61 with a .96 or 1.04 exhaust a/r should work or maybe a T70 or gt40. But with your higher c/r you won't need as much psi to make the same power as someone with stock or lowered c/r
I would just check to see what the supra's and hal from 350z are using since they are reving in the 8k range
I would just check to see what the supra's and hal from 350z are using since they are reving in the 8k range
"The VGT is a system where the a/r of the turbine housing can open to a larger critical area or a smaller critical area. The smaller the critical area the faster the turbo spools but the lower the top end. The larger the critical area, the opposite.
If it is VARIABLE, imagine the spool speed of a 14b and the topend of an FP DSM86. This turbo has the 68lb/min hx40 compressor wheel and the turbine housing opens up larger than a +1.2 a/r t4." (whatever this means..)
From this link:
http://www.dsmpurity.com/forum/showt...GT-turbo/page4
Fleece Performance is supposed to announce their VGT controller - soon -
In the meantime: http://www.fleeceperformance.com/cat...d021c6afc.aspx
And some comments about the coming VGT controller: http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=81849
.
Last edited by grey99max; 09-22-2010 at 12:25 PM.
09-23-2010, 04:45 PM
#391
Harold, I did want to mention something, you might not want to hear it but..... Try not to go over 600whp. I believe you have HR head bolts right? this is one of the minor regrets I have with my build, not going with L19's. There is record of head lift with HR headbolts at around 620ish WHP on the Z's, we dont have any concrete data on this but thats one of the few failures with HR head bolts. If I ever have to open up my engine again (really hope not, doubt it), I would put on L19's and leave HR gasket, probably the best combination ever. (some guy is running 9's on HR gasket.)
09-23-2010, 06:50 PM
#392
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Harold, I did want to mention something, you might not want to hear it but..... Try not to go over 600whp. I believe you have HR head bolts right? this is one of the minor regrets I have with my build, not going with L19's. There is record of head lift with HR headbolts at around 620ish WHP on the Z's, we dont have any concrete data on this but thats one of the few failures with HR head bolts. If I ever have to open up my engine again (really hope not, doubt it), I would put on L19's and leave HR gasket, probably the best combination ever. (some guy is running 9's on HR gasket.)
I'm laying the groundwork for the two new nitrous stages as I gather parts. I'll be able to try the elbow-spray soon, and the direct port stage will be next. I'm attaching everything to the UIM so I can lift it off as an assembly.
Opinions on the Holset HE351Ve turbo?
Last edited by grey99max; 09-23-2010 at 07:03 PM.
09-23-2010, 07:19 PM
#393
Nope - I have HR head gaskets, but have ARP head studs and girdle studs for the mains. I had HR head bolts on the last motor. ARP is the shizz. I should be able to keep those nice heads attached to the block. The engine is sized for 750-800 crank HP, at a minimum. The parts are all rated to at least 1000HP. Not sure about the 2005 crank, but it's been machined and balanced by an expert.
I'm laying the groundwork for the two new nitrous stages as I gather parts. I'll be able to try the elbow-spray soon, and the direct port stage will be next. I'm attaching everything to the UIM so I can lift it off as an assembly.
Opinions on the Holset HE351Ve turbo?
I'm laying the groundwork for the two new nitrous stages as I gather parts. I'll be able to try the elbow-spray soon, and the direct port stage will be next. I'm attaching everything to the UIM so I can lift it off as an assembly.
Opinions on the Holset HE351Ve turbo?
Which ARP did you go with for the heads? L19's? I have always read and been told the standard ARP studs arent any much stronger than HR bolts.
Goodluck with the nitrous setup.
btw offtopic, have you tested your voltage boosta lately? Mine no longer puts out anything greater than 12v for some reason.
09-23-2010, 07:34 PM
#394
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Honestly, if it was my choice, id resell it and get an HX40. Just to keep things simple and not have to deal with the electronics of the VE. Its a good piece of machine, but since your spraying, spool is not going to be an issue for you, trust me. A 35 dry shot wakes the hell out of my HX40 so imagine a bigger shot, and this is with a 18cm^2 housing (which i think its the biggest housing for the 40, not good for spool up but great for top end power, specially 8k rpm.)
Which ARP did you go with for the heads? L19's? I have always read and been told the standard ARP studs arent any much stronger than HR bolts.
Goodluck with the nitrous setup.
btw offtopic, have you tested your voltage boosta lately? Mine no longer puts out anything greater than 12v for some reason.
Which ARP did you go with for the heads? L19's? I have always read and been told the standard ARP studs arent any much stronger than HR bolts.
Goodluck with the nitrous setup.
btw offtopic, have you tested your voltage boosta lately? Mine no longer puts out anything greater than 12v for some reason.
ARP head studs aren't the L19s - but seems to me that the specs on those studs were superior to the HR bolt... I try and research all this stuff going in the Max. I need to get IPT - or Level10 - to build me a transmission before the snows start again.
The Boosta? I haven't checked mine lately, but I will when the rains stop. It was OK just after the new engine was installed.
.
Last edited by grey99max; 09-23-2010 at 07:41 PM.
09-24-2010, 07:51 AM
#395
Interesting thoughts about the turbo - simple is good, but once the Fleece controller is released, it should be manageable. I won't be able to do anything with it until next season - I'll be busy getting all my present plans to work. I figure I'll launch with nitrous, so if I keep the engine in the 5K-8K range in the gears, a healthy turbo should make me 15psi or so?
ARP head studs aren't the L19s - but seems to me that the specs on those studs were superior to the HR bolt... I try and research all this stuff going in the Max. I need to get IPT - or Level10 - to build me a transmission before the snows start again.
The Boosta? I haven't checked mine lately, but I will when the rains stop. It was OK just after the new engine was installed.
.
ARP head studs aren't the L19s - but seems to me that the specs on those studs were superior to the HR bolt... I try and research all this stuff going in the Max. I need to get IPT - or Level10 - to build me a transmission before the snows start again.
The Boosta? I haven't checked mine lately, but I will when the rains stop. It was OK just after the new engine was installed.
.
09-24-2010, 09:46 AM
#396
LandShark has Cosworth
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 4,327
09-24-2010, 10:49 AM
#397
The compressor side has 7 blades. That should blow up a mean breeze. What does your car pull like when making 10+ psi? I think that if I could make 15psi early, say 4500, that my car would be a beast on the track. Launch with a 75-shot and cut nitrous at 6-7 psi and just hang on !!
If its like the hx40 then you probably have a billet compressor wheel, which also flows like the 6blade (
). At 10psi it made 380whp with lots of misfire, with muffler. Open exhaust, no misfire = 
09-26-2010, 09:18 AM
#398
LandShark has Cosworth
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 4,327
direct-port
While I'm waiting for more nitrous parts, I decided to try mounting an Induction Solutions nozzle on a spare IM.
Cutting it off:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1440.jpg
Up the port:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1434.jpg
Aluminum brazing didn't work - I can't get the manifold hot enough to flow. Bummer.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1442.jpg
24-hour J B Weld next:
Cutting it off:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1440.jpg
Up the port:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1434.jpg
Aluminum brazing didn't work - I can't get the manifold hot enough to flow. Bummer.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...o/DSCN1442.jpg
24-hour J B Weld next:
Last edited by grey99max; 09-26-2010 at 09:26 AM.
