Another 3.5 swap thread
#361
There's a distinct lack of power in the midrange with all 3.5 swaps that use the 4th gen ECU. SSIM makes it a little worse. Part of it is an airflow issue with the intake manifold and the other part of it is ignition timing.
A leaking head gasket won't make the intake loud. Are you thinking intake manifold gasket?
A leaking head gasket won't make the intake loud. Are you thinking intake manifold gasket?
yea, i have heard some HG just go south and what u think is the intake is actually the headgasket but im just glad its only the intake, it seems my CAI just applified the sound of the intake, its almost obnoxious.
#362
i drove it agian, and this is not a normal loss of mid range its pretty bad, it feels like if the car had 3 knock sensors and they all went bad its like a paralyzed feeling, It naturally comes more alive at about 4000rpm but I know the 3.0 was a lot quicker.
Last edited by Crusher103; 07-10-2010 at 09:40 AM.
#364
#365
just they live 15mins away from me thats the thing.
k back to the drawing board, the car now has gas in it again, and is back to being difficult to start. Something just isnt adding up. When its sitting on E its very easy to start when their is some gas in the tank it doesnt want to start.
i just drove it, torque is there but it hesitates at 4000 then pulls, in the low RPM ranges(just below 1000) forget about torque. so something is up. (i dont think thats the fault of the SSIM)
Intake is stupidly loud thou when i drove the car i though i had a leak in my headgasket. when i got out of the car and listened it was def. coming from the intake.
k back to the drawing board, the car now has gas in it again, and is back to being difficult to start. Something just isnt adding up. When its sitting on E its very easy to start when their is some gas in the tank it doesnt want to start.
i just drove it, torque is there but it hesitates at 4000 then pulls, in the low RPM ranges(just below 1000) forget about torque. so something is up. (i dont think thats the fault of the SSIM)
Intake is stupidly loud thou when i drove the car i though i had a leak in my headgasket. when i got out of the car and listened it was def. coming from the intake.
if you're idling high that is a sign of an intake leak. First turn of key when I swapped I idled at 1700 and did not drop. Found the leak, fixed it. Idled at 690ish... So find ALL leaks and fix them finally, and they start up and see where you idle.
With an intake leak starting the car might or might not be too difficult. I've started my car before with a bad leak fairly easily, so you're starting problems might be rooted elsewhere.
There's a distinct lack of power in the midrange with all 3.5 swaps that use the 4th gen ECU. SSIM makes it a little worse. Part of it is an airflow issue with the intake manifold and the other part of it is ignition timing.
A leaking head gasket won't make the intake loud. Are you thinking intake manifold gasket?
A leaking head gasket won't make the intake loud. Are you thinking intake manifold gasket?
I still think mid range can use some improvement tho...
#367
I definitely have a little "lull" around 3-4k on mine (with SSIM) but I thought that was just due to it needing a tune badly..
#368
Once you get your EU and wb02 all hooked up. Do a 3rd gear run and datalog af/maf voltage/rpms/ and see what digs changes etc..
then you'll know better what is going on.
#370
Motor sounds kinda good when you revved it... I'm sure it had more bass to it in person.
if it turns out you have bad compression in it... I don't know what you're going to do next but i'd say just get a good working vq35 and re-swap.
there is a dude in FL selling a good vq35 for $250. Just gotta make your way down there and get it.
if it turns out you have bad compression in it... I don't know what you're going to do next but i'd say just get a good working vq35 and re-swap.
there is a dude in FL selling a good vq35 for $250. Just gotta make your way down there and get it.
#371
Motor sounds kinda good when you revved it... I'm sure it had more bass to it in person.
if it turns out you have bad compression in it... I don't know what you're going to do next but i'd say just get a good working vq35 and re-swap.
there is a dude in FL selling a good vq35 for $250. Just gotta make your way down there and get it.
if it turns out you have bad compression in it... I don't know what you're going to do next but i'd say just get a good working vq35 and re-swap.
there is a dude in FL selling a good vq35 for $250. Just gotta make your way down there and get it.
#372
Motor sounds kinda good when you revved it... I'm sure it had more bass to it in person.
if it turns out you have bad compression in it... I don't know what you're going to do next but i'd say just get a good working vq35 and re-swap.
there is a dude in FL selling a good vq35 for $250. Just gotta make your way down there and get it.
if it turns out you have bad compression in it... I don't know what you're going to do next but i'd say just get a good working vq35 and re-swap.
there is a dude in FL selling a good vq35 for $250. Just gotta make your way down there and get it.
#373
if its compression you need a new motor built up (if its salvagable)
I know there is a bad leak that needs to be fixed, but that knocking/tapping like sound is not from an intake leak....
#374
plus if you are going to pull the rods pistons out of a block, its almost pointless and foolish to put it used pistons/rods etc into it just to save money. Its better to just go new parts and have a much more reliable motor and better peace of mind.
#376
naah don't deal with that...you already started this project with a problematic motor, don't get a second one to try and fix the first one.
plus if you are going to pull the rods pistons out of a block, its almost pointless and foolish to put it used pistons/rods etc into it just to save money. Its better to just go new parts and have a much more reliable motor and better peace of mind.
plus if you are going to pull the rods pistons out of a block, its almost pointless and foolish to put it used pistons/rods etc into it just to save money. Its better to just go new parts and have a much more reliable motor and better peace of mind.
because the guy in FL has a valve ticking problem. i dont want to deal with that either.
#378
Dont they give you 30day warranty on engines up there? When i got mine i got 30days, now that you did the swap you know what it consist of and can prob do it in less than 3 days or a week. beat on it for another week, if its not a good motor you take it back apart put stock stuff back on and exchange or refund.
#379
Dont they give you 30day warranty on engines up there? When i got mine i got 30days, now that you did the swap you know what it consist of and can prob do it in less than 3 days or a week. beat on it for another week, if its not a good motor you take it back apart put stock stuff back on and exchange or refund.
#381
Yes, if you're using the VIAS, then you will have a much better midrange and marginally better low end than a SSIM or removed butterfly valve. But your top end won't be as good.
#382
So let's recap.
OP buys blown motor, doesn't do comp test.
Puts it together with broken timing ring, still doesn't do comp test.
Doesn't adjust TPS and runs it without TPS and revs it hard.
Says he had water in the crankcase
Then complains that the car doesn't rev and he needs a new engine.
This happens over a course of 6 months. To put it in perspective, astronauts have traveled to the moon and got back in less time than it took for him to put the engine in your car and find out it doesn't work.
I'm doing a VQ35 swap as we speak in a member's I30. So far it's taken a day and I'm halfway done, since I don't want to overextend myself.
OP buys blown motor, doesn't do comp test.
Puts it together with broken timing ring, still doesn't do comp test.
Doesn't adjust TPS and runs it without TPS and revs it hard.
Says he had water in the crankcase
Then complains that the car doesn't rev and he needs a new engine.
This happens over a course of 6 months. To put it in perspective, astronauts have traveled to the moon and got back in less time than it took for him to put the engine in your car and find out it doesn't work.
I'm doing a VQ35 swap as we speak in a member's I30. So far it's taken a day and I'm halfway done, since I don't want to overextend myself.
#383
So let's recap.
OP buys blown motor, doesn't do comp test.
Puts it together with broken timing ring, still doesn't do comp test.
Doesn't adjust TPS and runs it without TPS and revs it hard.
Says he had water in the crankcase
Then complains that the car doesn't rev and he needs a new engine.
This happens over a course of 6 months. To put it in perspective, astronauts have traveled to the moon and got back in less time than it took for him to put the engine in your car and find out it doesn't work.
I'm doing a VQ35 swap as we speak in a member's I30. So far it's taken a day and I'm halfway done, since I don't want to overextend myself.
OP buys blown motor, doesn't do comp test.
Puts it together with broken timing ring, still doesn't do comp test.
Doesn't adjust TPS and runs it without TPS and revs it hard.
Says he had water in the crankcase
Then complains that the car doesn't rev and he needs a new engine.
This happens over a course of 6 months. To put it in perspective, astronauts have traveled to the moon and got back in less time than it took for him to put the engine in your car and find out it doesn't work.
I'm doing a VQ35 swap as we speak in a member's I30. So far it's taken a day and I'm halfway done, since I don't want to overextend myself.
#385
So let's recap.
OP buys blown motor, doesn't do comp test.
Puts it together with broken timing ring, still doesn't do comp test.
Doesn't adjust TPS and runs it without TPS and revs it hard.
Says he had water in the crankcase
Then complains that the car doesn't rev and he needs a new engine.
This happens over a course of 6 months. To put it in perspective, astronauts have traveled to the moon and got back in less time than it took for him to put the engine in your car and find out it doesn't work.
I'm doing a VQ35 swap as we speak in a member's I30. So far it's taken a day and I'm halfway done, since I don't want to overextend myself.
OP buys blown motor, doesn't do comp test.
Puts it together with broken timing ring, still doesn't do comp test.
Doesn't adjust TPS and runs it without TPS and revs it hard.
Says he had water in the crankcase
Then complains that the car doesn't rev and he needs a new engine.
This happens over a course of 6 months. To put it in perspective, astronauts have traveled to the moon and got back in less time than it took for him to put the engine in your car and find out it doesn't work.
I'm doing a VQ35 swap as we speak in a member's I30. So far it's taken a day and I'm halfway done, since I don't want to overextend myself.
#387
#388
#389
yea, this is what i found:
this is what it looks like now, i need to get some close ups:
just have to clean up the pistons some more but cleaned up both sides and coated it with some oil and its turning over extremely fluid, but the only way i will be able to tell is when i turn on the car and drive it for a couple of weeks to see if anything is wrong; oil burn off.
but if it does go give me problem i will find another 3.5 swap it in then maybe bore and stroke this one turn it into a project, im thinking a nice round number 4.2L sounds good.
this is what it looks like now, i need to get some close ups:
just have to clean up the pistons some more but cleaned up both sides and coated it with some oil and its turning over extremely fluid, but the only way i will be able to tell is when i turn on the car and drive it for a couple of weeks to see if anything is wrong; oil burn off.
but if it does go give me problem i will find another 3.5 swap it in then maybe bore and stroke this one turn it into a project, im thinking a nice round number 4.2L sounds good.
#390
#391
havent even bother. its already out of the car and im just about done hooking up the other motor, the only thing i want to keep of they are good from this motor is the heads so i can go ahead and have clearances done.
#392
#394
this has been a very helpful thread! i've got a '91 300ZX with a VQ30 swapped in from an I30 and i have been tossing around the idea of swapping in a VQ35 instead. nice to see a couple local NC guys working on this.
#396
how'd you sort out the oilpan? doesn't the z32 have the deep part towards the tranny on the VG?
#397
the engine has an infiniti cover on it but i guess it is out of a '96 Maxima SE not an I30...but im not sure how it was done to be honest. custom motor mounts and headers and the engine sits really really close to the hood. i bought it already swapped with the intentions of upgrading it to a 35. i do know the stock 5 speed trans wasn't properly aligned to the block though which is causing some problems. other than that it is actually a pretty clean swap considering it's a FWD motor in a RWD car
Last edited by bristol16; 09-21-2010 at 04:51 PM.
#398
the engine has an infiniti cover on it but i guess it is out of a '96 Maxima SE not an I30...but im not sure how it was done to be honest. custom motor mounts and headers and the engine sits really really close to the hood. i bought it already swapped with the intentions of upgrading it to a 35. i do know the stock 5 speed trans wasn't properly aligned to the block though which is causing some problems. other than that it is actually a pretty clean swap considering it's a FWD motor in a RWD car