this hard starting thou. Its becoming a little ridculous.

yea, i have heard some HG just go south and what u think is the intake is actually the headgasket but im just glad its only the intake, it seems my CAI just applified the sound of the intake, its almost obnoxious.

 

i drove it agian, and this is not a normal loss of mid range its pretty bad, it feels like if the car had 3 knock sensors and they all went bad its like a paralyzed feeling, It naturally comes more alive at about 4000rpm but I know the 3.0 was a lot quicker.

 

what codes are u throwing?

 

lmao a whole lot, i havent checked them yet, my knock sensor, MAF, and O2s, are all good, i know those contribute most to powerloss.

 

Thank you... Did my first one in 06 also...
HG's dont make a hissing noise. If you hear a veery loud hissing, then yes you have a intake leak. Find it and fix it. Intake leaks are loud so finding it should be pretty easy. There is also the soap water technique also (in a spray bottle and spray around areas to look for bubbles).

if you're idling high that is a sign of an intake leak. First turn of key when I swapped I idled at 1700 and did not drop. Found the leak, fixed it. Idled at 690ish... So find ALL leaks and fix them finally, and they start up and see where you idle.

With an intake leak starting the car might or might not be too difficult. I've started my car before with a bad leak fairly easily, so you're starting problems might be rooted elsewhere.



fp changes depending on rpms...
help this man please. If you have a harbor freight around, they have a surprisingly good compression tester for $20. Spend an hour and rule this out. Since the motor was in a bad state to begin with it is possible the motor could be bad/warped block or something... so process of elimination will help to find the problem(s) once things are ruled out.

I dont have a mid range loss... low end is torqy and just when I have vias activation i feel the wave kick in...

I still think mid range can use some improvement tho...

 

here is a vid i just took of it in my driveway, the intake sounds fine its the exhaust that worries me the most:

 

I definitely have a little "lull" around 3-4k on mine (with SSIM) but I thought that was just due to it needing a tune badly..

 

I never wanted a SSIM due to its affect on certain parts of the power range.

Once you get your EU and wb02 all hooked up. Do a 3rd gear run and datalog af/maf voltage/rpms/ and see what digs changes etc..

then you'll know better what is going on.

 

im definetely doing a compression test today im going to get to the bottom of this by this evening so i can know what im doing next.

 

Motor sounds kinda good when you revved it... I'm sure it had more bass to it in person.

if it turns out you have bad compression in it... I don't know what you're going to do next but i'd say just get a good working vq35 and re-swap.

there is a dude in FL selling a good vq35 for $250. Just gotta make your way down there and get it.

 

im hoping its just compression, if it is electrical, its going to be such a b1tch to find

 

there is another motor block and heads for sale in the DC area, the only problem with it is it developed rod knock i have the rods and crank now but i dont think i want to deal with that, it probably didnt but it could have affected the block.

 

doubt its electrical.

if its compression you need a new motor built up (if its salvagable)

I know there is a bad leak that needs to be fixed, but that knocking/tapping like sound is not from an intake leak....

 

naah don't deal with that...you already started this project with a problematic motor, don't get a second one to try and fix the first one.

plus if you are going to pull the rods pistons out of a block, its almost pointless and foolish to put it used pistons/rods etc into it just to save money. Its better to just go new parts and have a much more reliable motor and better peace of mind.

 

nah man if i were you id buy a motor with 10k on it... id be tired of trying to fix problematic motors. just pay the money and get a good one

 

thats exactly what im thinking right now, i dont want to deal with problems again. I was just saying its an option. i just want to swap over my timing and cams and drive off.

because the guy in FL has a valve ticking problem. i dont want to deal with that either.

 

I really think if you buy a good one, knowing what you know now, you could drop it in problem free and be done with it

 

Dont they give you 30day warranty on engines up there? When i got mine i got 30days, now that you did the swap you know what it consist of and can prob do it in less than 3 days or a week. beat on it for another week, if its not a good motor you take it back apart put stock stuff back on and exchange or refund.

 

im going to take my time on finding another one, i have seen a few for a decent price. If i find one with in the next week that i want and is priced decent i might get it.

 

I got my motor for $500 with 13k on it in Marion, NC. Ended up spending about $620 total including renting a pickup/gas to pick it up and bring it back.

 

Yes, if you're using the VIAS, then you will have a much better midrange and marginally better low end than a SSIM or removed butterfly valve. But your top end won't be as good.

 

So let's recap.

OP buys blown motor, doesn't do comp test.

Puts it together with broken timing ring, still doesn't do comp test.

Doesn't adjust TPS and runs it without TPS and revs it hard.

Says he had water in the crankcase

Then complains that the car doesn't rev and he needs a new engine.

This happens over a course of 6 months. To put it in perspective, astronauts have traveled to the moon and got back in less time than it took for him to put the engine in your car and find out it doesn't work.

I'm doing a VQ35 swap as we speak in a member's I30. So far it's taken a day and I'm halfway done, since I don't want to overextend myself.

 

Eggsellent recap...

 

wow

 

u want a cookie?

 

 

I don't know...thats how those rev-up cams sound as far as I know.

 

i dunno what it was but this motor is garbage its coming out. im going to get another 3.5 and do a proper build on it, start with a good motor and make it better.

 

 

LOL, have you done a compression test yet? Connected a vacuum gauge to measure manifold vacuum?

 

havent even bother. its already out of the car and im just about done hooking up the other motor, the only thing i want to keep of they are good from this motor is the heads so i can go ahead and have clearances done.

 

and p/p in your spare time?

 

pretty much. get those heads ready for some serious cams.

 

this has been a very helpful thread! i've got a '91 300ZX with a VQ30 swapped in from an I30 and i have been tossing around the idea of swapping in a VQ35 instead. nice to see a couple local NC guys working on this.

 

yea my swap would have ended terrific had i had a decent 3.5.....just finished swapping a VQ30 back in with mostly VQ35 components.

 

how'd you sort out the oilpan? doesn't the z32 have the deep part towards the tranny on the VG?

 

the engine has an infiniti cover on it but i guess it is out of a '96 Maxima SE not an I30...but im not sure how it was done to be honest. custom motor mounts and headers and the engine sits really really close to the hood. i bought it already swapped with the intentions of upgrading it to a 35. i do know the stock 5 speed trans wasn't properly aligned to the block though which is causing some problems. other than that it is actually a pretty clean swap considering it's a FWD motor in a RWD car

 

wait...U have a Z32 with a VQ30? u wanna post pics of it.

 

yeah no problem.

 

wow, ok this i need to see in person. And u bought the car like that?