Another 3.5 swap thread
Basically you need a 3.0TB to take apart, u take out the motor from the 3.5TB, and just play around with it, i didnt follow any instruction just tried different things. its not too hard, gotta be creative. here are some pics.
I knew all the issues many had with the TB, and how they had to rig it, and honnestly most of them looks a bit shady and like it would fall apart of day, or atleast come loose...
I spent the money and bought the adapter plate and Pathfinder throttle body and called it a day.
I spent the money and bought the adapter plate and Pathfinder throttle body and called it a day.
I knew all the issues many had with the TB, and how they had to rig it, and honnestly most of them looks a bit shady and like it would fall apart of day, or atleast come loose...
I spent the money and bought the adapter plate and Pathfinder throttle body and called it a day.
I spent the money and bought the adapter plate and Pathfinder throttle body and called it a day.
I knew all the issues many had with the TB, and how they had to rig it, and honnestly most of them looks a bit shady and like it would fall apart of day, or atleast come loose...
I spent the money and bought the adapter plate and Pathfinder throttle body and called it a day.
I spent the money and bought the adapter plate and Pathfinder throttle body and called it a day.
not with the mount. my soldering sucked way back then. that caused the one issue. and other time was when i decided to fix something that wasnt broke lol.
But to each there own.
FYI: You can run without a throttle sensor on the car. It just does the whole srt4 engine braking grugle thing.
But to each there own.
FYI: You can run without a throttle sensor on the car. It just does the whole srt4 engine braking grugle thing.
oh yea it was your TPS that was acting up.
it can be converted,and the more you understand how to do it you can get more creative with it. I've seen the excellent convertions and they used good part to the point where it almost looked factory.
I had little Patience and extra money. so I got the adpater and a pathy..
it can be converted,and the more you understand how to do it you can get more creative with it. I've seen the excellent convertions and they used good part to the point where it almost looked factory.
I had little Patience and extra money. so I got the adpater and a pathy..
oh yea it was your TPS that was acting up.
it can be converted,and the more you understand how to do it you can get more creative with it. I've seen the excellent convertions and they used good part to the point where it almost looked factory.
I had little Patience and extra money. so I got the adpater and a pathy..
it can be converted,and the more you understand how to do it you can get more creative with it. I've seen the excellent convertions and they used good part to the point where it almost looked factory.
I had little Patience and extra money. so I got the adpater and a pathy..
yep they dont call me diymaximakid for nothing. lol.
oh yea it was your TPS that was acting up.
it can be converted,and the more you understand how to do it you can get more creative with it. I've seen the excellent convertions and they used good part to the point where it almost looked factory.
I had little Patience and extra money. so I got the adpater and a pathy..
it can be converted,and the more you understand how to do it you can get more creative with it. I've seen the excellent convertions and they used good part to the point where it almost looked factory.
I had little Patience and extra money. so I got the adpater and a pathy..
I eventually got it started by push starting it, but it wouldn't rev above 1500rpm, IIRC. I then looked through the service manual and found out about the TPS that way.
ok how is it an excuse when the battery is going to be exchanged today.
Just sayin' ..
Uh, no. The 4 ground wires coming off the engine harness in the front need a really good ground. They need to be pristine. Clean them with sandpaper or scotchbrite if you have to. They should be grounded to a nice, shiny, and clean piece of metal somewhere on the engine.
On that same note, the ground wire connecting to the engine from the battery should be cleaned up really well too.
Also, I hope you grinded away some metal on the upper oil pan so that the crank sensor in between the motor and the tranny can read the flywheel.
On that same note, the ground wire connecting to the engine from the battery should be cleaned up really well too.
Also, I hope you grinded away some metal on the upper oil pan so that the crank sensor in between the motor and the tranny can read the flywheel.
Uh, no. The 4 ground wires coming off the engine harness in the front need a really good ground. They need to be pristine. Clean them with sandpaper or scotchbrite if you have to. They should be grounded to a nice, shiny, and clean piece of metal somewhere on the engine.
On that same note, the ground wire connecting to the engine from the battery should be cleaned up really well too.
Also, I hope you grinded away some metal on the upper oil pan so that the crank sensor in between the motor and the tranny can read the flywheel.
On that same note, the ground wire connecting to the engine from the battery should be cleaned up really well too.
Also, I hope you grinded away some metal on the upper oil pan so that the crank sensor in between the motor and the tranny can read the flywheel.
i'll give it a shot thou.
i literally lol'd..... during the last dek swap we (i) did, one of the guys put 5 spark plugs in...we couldnt figure out why the 3rd cylinder coil pack was pulsing up and down when we tried to crank it.
but yeah, that same engine swap didnt start for a while, make sure those grounds in front of the manifold are grounded properly, we used the timing chain cover.
but yeah, that same engine swap didnt start for a while, make sure those grounds in front of the manifold are grounded properly, we used the timing chain cover.
hmmm, i wouldnt think that i to would be the grounds, if i wasnt getting fuel then i would say maybe its the grounds but since the coilpacks are incased in plastic and the valve covers are also plastic im not sure how much grounding will help, i also have an aftermarket grounding kit grounding the intake manifold.
i'll give it a shot thou.
i'll give it a shot thou.
I have no idea what your setup is of your aftermarket grounding kit. But I can't stress enough how absolutely imperative it is that these small little ground wires have a really good ground.
Also clean the ends of the crank and cam sensors. Sometimes they get bits of metal on them since they all have magnets on them.
Based on the pictures you posted, it looks like you're using the VQ35 upper oil pan. Did you shave the 1/4" of metal away so that the crank sensor can read the flywheel??
Last edited by Weimar Ben; Mar 1, 2010 at 07:56 PM.
The coil packs are grounded out through the spark plug. The crank and cam sensors CONTROL the spark. That's how the ECU knows when to fire a given cylinder. IF the ECU is not picking up data from these sensors due to a failed sensor or bad ground, it will not fire. The crank sensor in between the tranny and motor is not grounded through the mounting of it, but actually though the ground wires near the front of the IM.
I have no idea what your setup is of your aftermarket grounding kit. But I can't stress enough how absolutely imperative it is that these small little ground wires have a really good ground.
Also clean the ends of the crank and cam sensors. Sometimes they get bits of metal on them since they all have magnets on them.
Based on the pictures you posted, it looks like you're using the VQ35 upper oil pan. Did you shave the 1/4" of metal away so that the crank sensor can read the flywheel??
I have no idea what your setup is of your aftermarket grounding kit. But I can't stress enough how absolutely imperative it is that these small little ground wires have a really good ground.
Also clean the ends of the crank and cam sensors. Sometimes they get bits of metal on them since they all have magnets on them.
Based on the pictures you posted, it looks like you're using the VQ35 upper oil pan. Did you shave the 1/4" of metal away so that the crank sensor can read the flywheel??
i cleaned the sensors before i put them in, my CrankPOS had a few metal shavings on it. and yea it is using the VQ35 upper pan. so it looks like i have alittle work to do. 1/4" isnt much shouldnt take long.
+ 1 to those grounds. I've experienced the same thing during a couple swaps. They are that imprtant.
If you have an AFC (or anything hardwired to the ECU if i'm not mistaken), It wont turn on when you try to crank the car up if these wires are not grounded properly. Just a a tip to help with trouble shooting.
If you have an AFC (or anything hardwired to the ECU if i'm not mistaken), It wont turn on when you try to crank the car up if these wires are not grounded properly. Just a a tip to help with trouble shooting.
