connect everything but the air sensor, see if that is it

 

regardless the tps sensor will still need to be set... dance around this fact if you like...you'll still have to face it

 

Faulty fuel pressure regulator was the problem. i have to get another one, i have been trying to adjust it and the highest it ever went was 40psi, now it wont go over 20psi, i though i might have done something wrong and hooked it up backwards just to see, the car started idle at 2k and didnt die until i turned the key(the FPR read no fuel pressure when i did this). so i have to get another one. better one this time.

 

i knew it couldnt have been the TPS causing the car not to respond, because regradless if its set or not it would still send a signal when i push the pedal down.

 

got the new FPR yet?

 

Spark Plugs

 

Installer

 

404: Running car not found.

 

^the FPR isnt here yet, if cars could start with no fuel let me know. but i can show u a picture that proves it has moved and been driven. i even have witnesses.

 

oic

ibstillwon'trun

are you gonna use less-than-stock-vq35 fuel pressure to keep it from running rich on the stock 3.0 ecu? you really need a wideband if you're gonna have that much guesswork involved, unless someone already knows the exact perfect fuel pressure to run stock vq35 injectors on a vq35 with a vq30 ecu.

 

ibvq35catchesonfire

 

i'm just sayin

 

is it still not running

 

 

Grant. Please take this as an example on how not to do a swap

 

 

my swap gonna take 2 days

 

thank you.. first time i swapped i was done in 3 days, and took another day to figure out problems.


last time I swapped (when motor blew) it took 2 days.

I look forward to you taking much less than crusher to git-r-dun...

 

still gathering parts...

just got my wideband. Waiting on at least two, maybe 3 more paydays.. wanna give myself plenty of extra cash for unexpected stuff

 

special surprise mod once the swap is finished too

 

niice did you get that innovative one?

I'm planning on ordering that Monday, hopefully get it by thursday. install same day and Tune friday

oh really

 

Yea that one for like $187 i showed you. george actually has it, good looking gauge.



yes, teh surprise.... gonna take a few months of saving however. Should elevate me to "bling" status

 

back on topic. Crusher. Wideband. You need it.

You also need to bolt up that exhaust apparently...

Did you read that link I posted about doing away with the tee in the return style setup.

buy my damn nitrous kit.




that is all.

 

1. he will order a wide band in 342 days from now...
2. I hope he just get a shop to do it, since he needs a y pipe anyway...
3. I hope he set up the fuel in the return style mannar. Probably not which is why his car is not starting
4. his car will blow up with nitrous... First day installed, he'd spray and hold it for 3 minutes and kill the motor as he'll still be spraying while at a a stop at a red light...

ib4motordiesandweallsayITOLDYOUSO

 

 

 

K now i have more time since im out of school so i can work on my car more, this is the issue. My car starts runs and idles but it runs rough. I have tried all kinds of fuel setups the only one that has worked for me is with the is the AFPR with a Tee. i cant use a stock FPR on the end of the fuel rail, my Fuel pressure is at 54psi and i have tried adjusting it, it only moved 3psi.

next thing is when im driving the car at low RPM its very jerky and breaks up as soon as it reaches about 4500rpm. I have some teeth missing off my timing ring, it got damaged when i was trying to get the crank pulley off. with the car running as rich as it is a couple of people are saying it could just be too much gas for the spark plugs to handle and it has fouled my plugs.

and this problem just popped up yesterday when i started my car just to keep the battery alive, i let it get up to temperature and started to rev it alittle, keeped on getting on it and it popped over 6500rpm, it shot up to 7000rpm....This car is on stock ECU. there is no nothing its just the stock ECU. Im confused on why this happened.

lemme just get this out the way, im not running a IACV, currently there is no TPS or air intake temperature sensor. before some of these smart guys ask the idle is set at 900rpm

 

first before anything fix that timing ring then drive again and see what happens. That is a major issue to have teeth from that timing ring missing..


Report back after thats done and the test drive.

 

i might have to scrap this 3.5, reasons will be coming soon, and no its not because im lazy or did something wrong, but by mon. i will know if i am or not.

 

FIRE FIRE FIRE!!!!!!

 

how old are you again??

 

it is cause your lazy. Dude... chipped teeth on a timing ring? and you still installed it?

thats like having holes in your lung and expecting to breath properly

 

 

 

no seriously its beyond the timing ring. might aswell part out the motor and do something else. Yesterday when i started the car i heard a loud grinding noise, motor revved to 1k and died. Going to try changing the oil and see if it still does it but im almost positive it will

 

well running a motor continuously with that chipped timing ring, having it firing improperly is just going to cause more and more damage each time you try to run the car. You shouldn't have put the timing ring in the car with those chipped teeth, ok you still did. When you posted about it a few days ago you shouldn't have run the car since then till you got that fixed.

Changing the oil and hoping for a better sound is pointless as that timing ring is a huge issue and till that is fixed your car will never run properly.

but if that is too much then yea, maybe its time to pull it out. Scoop up a DEK cheap, its a drop and go. couple vac lines to rig up and you're golden on the first key turn.

 

and this has been ridiculous aswell, i have tried just about fuel every setup, the car still doesnt want to start like it should, it runs rough, it dies at random, like im not a moron when it comes down to it. I was hoping i would luck out with this motor i bought it for $150, but looks like i didnt.

 

this


l
l
\/

 

i think the block and heads from the 3.5 might still be usable, so im going to part them, but as usually for me i cant do all this work and not take a step forward. so right now i might use the 3.5 rod and crank, im going to do some search on it

 

see my above post. That timing ring is crucial. With missing teeth it will never run right. Fix that. I bet you the car runs 104% better then.

If it runs better then the question next would be how much damage was done with the chipped timing ring in place and you driving on it flooring it etc.