Brad at RLZ Engineering locally here in Concord. Very good work, took a little longer then I expected but since the intake and exhaust ports were hand ported it took some time. I called around to a few places, M2 Race in Jersey, Forged Performance, and another local place. They all either used scanned in hand ports on their CNC machine or they either hand ported themselves. The concern I had with the scanned CNC job was that you really can't be sure how good of a hand port it was to begin with. There are no CNC programs specifically written for these heads from scratch, which I assumed someone would have already done since the 350z guys do these builds all the time, but I couldn't find any for the life of me. Plus, he could have written a CNC program for me, but it was 5 times the cost and took about 4 times longer. I can't wait a whole year to get these heads back.

At anyrate, Brad has been doing Nascar heads for 10 years locally, and then moved onto import cars in early 2000. He's got alot of experience and knows exactly how to make these perform. He averaged a 35 CFM gain after the port work for my particular heads.

The valve job is ridiculous. He didn't have to touch the bowl cause he said it was super smooth and would flow well, but he did deck the heads, and I have an OEM spec 5 angle Hayabusa valve job. Surprised me also, but he stated that this is the best flowing cut he's ever seen from factory. I believe it if it's from a Hayabusa.

Stay tuned for more numbers and info. Will be hitting up the dyno by next week at the latest for the A/F tune.

 

looking forward to the numbers!

Find out, if you can, if it was the Busa valve job or not...?

 

It is definitely a Busa valve job.

 

Sneak peek from today's wheel alignment at the shop. She's duuurty.

 

Still slow

 

I do not beg the differ.

 

Very nice build. Interested to see the dyno numbers. Good job.

 

nice to see if back on the road !

 

DAAAAAMMMMMNNNNNN that is one sexy car...very nice build!

 

I can’t remember if anyone ever figured out if the sweep angle was higher/better in the L32 Altima/A35 maxima CVTC gear/solenoids ... With that said, are you using A33B CVTC’s? And, are you controlling them using A33B software, or better said, letting the A33B software do that?


Are you shimming the Z33 t-stat too .. any quantitative/definitive data/info on that?

 

Have you looked into getting GReddy v-Manage to adjust the CVTC yourself?

 

Don't spoil the fun ... I was sorta prying there.

 

It has been discussed back and forth between Matt and I regarding the v-Manage and controlling CVTC's. It's not definitive at this time in direction until I've got everything that I have running properly first. We are going to address that later on down the road but at this point there have not been any solid yes's or no's to this matter.

I actually didn't have to shim the Z33 T-Stat when I initially installed it, and I've had one on there for a few years now. I did have to stretch the coolant piping to reach though. However, with this new motor I did this.......

I bought a new Z33 T-Stat and a Stock A33B T-Stat. I removed the guts out of the Z33 and swapped it into the A33B Housing. Success and stock looking again with no shims required. You do have to switch the pin that came out of the A33B housing over to the Z33 guts however, or else it will never activate because the pin in the Z33 is much shorter. Another one of Matt's little mods that came out perfect.

 

Sounds logical, especially at this point, don't wanna be like and have to go BACK and 'troubleshoot' an extra variable.


I was speaking as in shimming it so it opens even earlier. Say in between the Nismo version and Z33 ...


As always ..

 

Ahhh, gotcha. Naw I didn't shim it. I did have the Nismo T-Stat, but then after speaking with Matt and Mike (nismology), they said that for my application it might be too much, so I dropped back to the Z33 and left it at that. I did get a new radiator, and a new HKS cap that's rated at 1.1 Bar vs the stock 0.9 Bar. Other then that, my cooling is done at the moment.

 

I remember Jime saying he always had a hard time getting into open loop since the ECT's hardly ever got where they were supposed to using the Nismo. So then I said

Z33 t-stat + 1.1 bar = FTW..I'm sure that's going to be fine, OEM Rad?

Add some water wetter

 

It's a Koyo Rad. Could locate any full aluminum ones that were made to fit. Didn't feel like modifying one either.

I spit in it, does that work?

 

Koyo, FTW! As long as it has mucus .. you should be fine.

 

Been following this since the beginning. Very interested in results. When are you dyno tuning?

 

Sorry for the delay. Road tuning should commence this evening. Went to the dyno a couple weekends ago, and just had them verify that my air/fuel was within range to drive without calibrating anything so I could actually perform the road tune. Once that is complete, I just need to schedule it for an upcoming weekend to get a baseline and then tune for timing as well as add on the remaining extras. Will be updating soon. Stay tuned!

 

very nice build, a question on the vid, is that the ses light that comes on at :50 and goes on and off throughout the vid?

 

Wow, where have I been for this thread?? Man, I am impressed, with all of this. Phenomenal job. I'm going to call it will put 312whp down after a proper tune

I'm very glad someone took the time, effort, patience and ***** to go the NA route. T/Ced and S/Ced Maximas are popping up left and right recently around here, good job on swinging the trend. Looking forward to some out of car vids, the dyno vid, and that mid to low 12 second 1/4 mile vid

 

I second the above. There is something fun and special about a proper all motor set up!

 

what is ur max dyno have? 300whp?

 

gtfo noob

 

We spent about 3 hours just learning how to maneuver around the Utec and the tables program I bought (Jeff Software). We spent about ¾ of that time trying to get the stuff to connect right via Serial to USB. I think we got it now though, or at least real close. The Utec is real finicky for some reason, and maybe it's just my laptop, but it seems to work much better with connectivity. We took about 6% fuel out of the idle and that helped a great deal, and bumped the idle back up to about 750. I think it should be alright but I’ll drive it tonight to see if the car cuts off at lights or coming to a stop. We’ll datalog next time Matt comes over and then draw the maps. The 350z basemap drives like crap as it has in the past when I had the stock motor. Not sure where the difference is in the parameters, we're pretty sure it's timing related, but I'll be drawing a map from scratch and also try to tune the 350z basemap.

 

The light did come on, but it never went away. I'm pulling a few codes for Cam Pos Sen, Advanced Timing, and misfire. The misfire codes if from my coils, and I need to switch those out. I think the rest is from my tune, but we'll diagnose that 1 at a time. I need to do it this week cause my inspection is due next month. Blah, NCDMV!

 

Agreed...n/a is fun

 

How much do you think you sunk into this project? You did a great job....I'd never paint other engine black again except for valve covers....oil leaks are hard to see and glossy black looks like there's an oil leak all the time due to the shine....Wish that was my project you went all out...can't whit to see some numbers

 

I'm afraid to tally it up. I know that CIN Motorsports was going to do this build for me without parts for about 7k. I'm over that, but I however got to get better components for this build and do more with headwork and such. I would have easily doubled that if I let them do it. Plus, the priceless experience of learning that I gained is my biggest advantage in this build so far. I learned more through this build then all my years combined where I thought I knew alot about my car.

 

In the process of drawing the maps from scratch for air/fuel, and timing at the moment. Matt has to datalog the timing map off his car with the Cipher so he can draw that map. We'll upload it to the Utec once complete and then tune from there. Nice! I'll have a completely custom basemap. Tried to run the 350z Basemap off TurboXS site, and the car runs like complete crap.

 

how did you find UTI, i have an aftermarket wideband and obviously the UTEC only supports the txs tuner. I don't like the MPS utec logger program at all, real buggy

 

When I did my base tune we used the 350z basemaps, they were from proefi and they worked well as a start.

 

www.jeffsoftware.com

A google search would have done you well.

Deckdout2, I simply started with all 0s in the fuel table and logged/emulated the factory timing map using UTI's datalogging. From there, it took 4-5 runs to get the A/F at a flat 13.0 then timing has slowly evolved over the last year... street tuning is not always the best way to get your timing right!!! I waited to go past the factory rev limiter until I'd gotten it tuned well below it.

Mine doesn't start pinging until 34ish degrees of timing, and the normal "go to ping, back up 2 degrees" setup is what I initially went with. I was trapping 82-83 (1/8th) with that. I backed the timing off another 3-10 degrees throughout the powerband and picked up several mph after talking to Aaron about the timing on his 3.5.

Hopefully you won't have to go through all that if you just jump on a dyno to get your timing hammered out. Good luck can't wait to get next to you at the track with that beast!!!!

 

It's definitely an awesome feeling of gratitude..... when you build something and it just runs and runs forever and ever....I'm very impressed with your build, good luck with the ecu side of it...You'll find out that those JWT guys are deep deep in the knowledge of engine management and it wasn't learned over nite.....GL

 

JWT Sucks!

 

Seriously, why even mention JWT in an A33B app?

 

 

j00 almost with your deal there little slugger?

 

foO... i have a new house... the project is on the back burner... i am just buying a little here, little there.. getting the house together is more important..