Quote:
Higher compression pistons move the entire curve upwards by a corresponding amount. They don't change the shape of the curve. On that note, the HR pistons are EXCELLENT. They're asymmetrical so they're VERY lightweight for their size. Just the weight reduction alone gives a small increase in power.Originally Posted by aackshun
To my knowledge pistons does not affect the curve, just the #'s... Could be wrong!
You said you like torque? Well that bumps up torque at every single freaking RPM. No other NA mod can do that.
Senior Member
Quote:
I got some 5.5 gen brakes for the front. Originally Posted by aackshun
Make a way for 15s to fit on your brakes!!!!
Quote:
The VQ35 is a very versatile engine which is why Nissan pwns it so much. Part of the K24 engine's advantage is that the higher RPMs allow it to stay in a lower gear for a longer period of time. A VQ35 with a 7500RPM redline with the 6spd and 4.13 FD gear will help it out a lot.Originally Posted by aackshun
What's the point of making power you can't use? (that really sounds even more ricer-ish) I have more than enough right now to get the car out of corners, problem is getting smoked on straightaways (aka streets or the 1/4 mile).
The VQ30 5spd had some pretty crappy gearing combined with a non-existent top end. So you'd need to shift at 6000rpm and going into 2nd, IIRC, you drop down to 4000rpm. So shifting gives you a MASSIVE drop in power and RPM. You won't have that problem.
Quote:
Yes, but if you use the SSIM and you're racing, you'll never be at an RPM where the lack of low end torque matters and you'll gain on the top.Originally Posted by aackshun
I know without VCT or VIAS a flat TQ line is a pretty lofty goal to expect....
Quote:
The G also has variable timing on exhaust and intake. FWD VQ35s only have it on the intake.Originally Posted by aackshun
But hell my TQ line isn't that bad right now, only problem is in the powerband, I have that typical VQ torque dropoff of 40-50 ft/lbs, something I want to prevent. That G had it PERFECT!!! I'd goto 6900rpms and call it a day!!!
Quote:
It's not really all that complicated. You have plenum volume and runner length.Originally Posted by aackshun
I will look into the whole plenum thing because unlike the other high power apps he did not use the cosworth plenum.....
Quote:
That's the argument religious zealots use. That which is presented without evidence can be summarily dismissed.Originally Posted by aackshun
The absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence.
Quote:
Why? I thought the 5.5gen brakes weren't substantially different than 4th gen? It's the 6th gen that are much larger.Originally Posted by krazy6
I got some 5.5 gen brakes for the front.
Quote:
You said you like torque? Well that bumps up torque at every single freaking RPM. No other NA mod can do that.
I do like TQ, but at the end of the day $$$ is the problem, I do NOT want to do pistons for that sole reason.Originally Posted by Weimar Ben
Higher compression pistons move the entire curve upwards by a corresponding amount. They don't change the shape of the curve. On that note, the HR pistons are EXCELLENT. They're asymmetrical so they're VERY lightweight for their size. Just the weight reduction alone gives a small increase in power.You said you like torque? Well that bumps up torque at every single freaking RPM. No other NA mod can do that.
Quote:
Noooo!!!!! I guess I'm sticking w/ 5.5 gens too, I will get some Dimpled and Slotted rotors and some good pads maybe that will help with the braking on the road course.Originally Posted by krazy6
I got some 5.5 gen brakes for the front.
Quote:
Why do you think I want it / already have that transmission
The VQ30 5spd had some pretty crappy gearing combined with a non-existent top end. So you'd need to shift at 6000rpm and going into 2nd, IIRC, you drop down to 4000rpm. So shifting gives you a MASSIVE drop in power and RPM. You won't have that problem.
It's even worse than that buddy, shifting earlier from 1st to 2nd will leave you in the 3500 range nowhere near 4k.
Yes, but if you use the SSIM and you're racing, you'll never be at an RPM where the lack of low end torque matters and you'll gain on the top.
Thus the short gearing!! But I am using the altima manifold and I plan on gutting it
The G also has variable timing on exhaust and intake. FWD VQ35s only have it on the intake.
Nope, you're getting it confused with a rev-up motor (05-08 Manuals), that G does not have a rev-up, it's just another FWD VQ35 with different mounts....
It's not really all that complicated. You have plenum volume and runner length.
Yuuup! I plan on maybe having IM spacers for the altima manifold but that will be a towards the end of the build type thing.
That's the argument religious zealots use. That which is presented without evidence can be summarily dismissed.
Well you certainly can't say because he had piston work he achieved the curves I wanted, because that so far is the ONLY VQ35 I have seen with the curves I want, Aaron92SE is 2nd because he's very close.
Originally Posted by Weimar Ben
The VQ35 is a very versatile engine which is why Nissan pwns it so much. Part of the K24 engine's advantage is that the higher RPMs allow it to stay in a lower gear for a longer period of time. A VQ35 with a 7500RPM redline with the 6spd and 4.13 FD gear will help it out a lot.Why do you think I want it / already have that transmission
The VQ30 5spd had some pretty crappy gearing combined with a non-existent top end. So you'd need to shift at 6000rpm and going into 2nd, IIRC, you drop down to 4000rpm. So shifting gives you a MASSIVE drop in power and RPM. You won't have that problem.
It's even worse than that buddy, shifting earlier from 1st to 2nd will leave you in the 3500 range nowhere near 4k.
Yes, but if you use the SSIM and you're racing, you'll never be at an RPM where the lack of low end torque matters and you'll gain on the top.
Thus the short gearing!! But I am using the altima manifold and I plan on gutting it
The G also has variable timing on exhaust and intake. FWD VQ35s only have it on the intake.
Nope, you're getting it confused with a rev-up motor (05-08 Manuals), that G does not have a rev-up, it's just another FWD VQ35 with different mounts....
It's not really all that complicated. You have plenum volume and runner length.
Yuuup! I plan on maybe having IM spacers for the altima manifold but that will be a towards the end of the build type thing.
That's the argument religious zealots use. That which is presented without evidence can be summarily dismissed.
Well you certainly can't say because he had piston work he achieved the curves I wanted, because that so far is the ONLY VQ35 I have seen with the curves I want, Aaron92SE is 2nd because he's very close.
Quote:
Not as substantial as the 6th gen but the differences are there, .5" on the rotor diameter, and some more thickness to them and ever so slightly bigger pads, the piston in the caliper is the same, hell the calipers look the same except for the opening for the thicker rotor, I'm pretty sure one could run 4th gen calipers on 5.5gen rotors if one was so inclined to.Originally Posted by Weimar Ben
Why? I thought the 5.5gen brakes weren't substantially different than 4th gen? It's the 6th gen that are much larger.
Senior Member
Quote:
I need to fit a 15" wheel so I can actually use a tire that's worth a damn. lolOriginally Posted by Weimar Ben
Why? I thought the 5.5gen brakes weren't substantially different than 4th gen? It's the 6th gen that are much larger.
Senior Member
Quote:
Whole point of my build
Cool, I wouldn't mind running in the faceoffOriginally Posted by aackshun;8188240
nahhhhhhh
[url
http://www.importfaceoff.net/race_rules.htm#AllMotorSport[/url]nahhhhhhh
[url
Whole point of my build
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Aint they though.Originally Posted by Crusher103
K swapped hondas are going to DOMINATE that.
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up top they fall on their face thou.
Those hatches can be so light 11's are easy.Originally Posted by Crusher103
A gutted hatch with slicks on a well tuned K series will run mid to low 11s all day. The only person we currently know that can match/beat that is jime but he is on nitrious.up top they fall on their face thou.
Quote:
That's was an easy fix with a VI and extended revs Originally Posted by Weimar Ben
The VQ30 5spd had some pretty crappy gearing combined with a non-existent top end. So you'd need to shift at 6000rpm and going into 2nd, IIRC, you drop down to 4000rpm. So shifting gives you a MASSIVE drop in power and RPM. You won't have that problem.
I have reached a new crossroads... And sadly I will have to go against some of my own theories and principles.
I will most likely NOT be using 3.0 Electronics / The Hybrid swap for the 3.5 anymore.
Trying to tackle an effective tuning solution has lead me to this conclusion.
This is where I stand....
3.0 Electronics:
-JWT ECU
-Some sort of piggyback
-Pay for a mechanic swapping over timing to the 3.0
-Extra downtime for wiring some new things because I'm using 3.0 electronics....
Using a Haltech Platinum Pro 1k
-Covers everything I want to do on the track and on the road, and an awesome tuning solution
-No longer needing to switch timing, cutting down on swap cost and downtime
-Sadly I will have to utilize the VTC's, something I did not want to deal with.....
The cost end up nearly the same, but maybe a bit more for keeping things 3.5 because I will probably end up having to buy an engine wiring harness (cheap for me), but I think I will probably end up just with the PS-1k because it's regarded by everyone who fools with the tuning of cars as an awesome start, and easy enough for even a complete n00b like me to tune on.
So in a near twist of fate... Somehow Surratt you won.... For now
Now I will be trying to figure out what to do about wiring the Haltech to my car, most likely I will have to utilize a newer 3.5 harness from the Altima and re-wire it in (or hell many just PNP at that point because of the near similarity to the Rev-Up/HR ecu's), but purchasing the Haltech unit will be the first piece to the puzzle and I will probably back this build up even more because I will probably practice tuning on the 3.0 (make all the mistakes I can on this motor).
So my current course of action to take in the next 30 days or so....
-Take care of tickets
-Buy Haltech
Then later down the road in November....
-Buy Altima Motor
-Move on to the cheaper stuff
-Pray to god I have my swap up and running for an IFO this year.....
So my question is... Who has went full Standalone on a 4th gen? I have not researched that much in this issue because I really thought I was NOT going to be a standalone guy, but all roads lead to that now with the more and more people I talk to and who fully understand what my plans/goals are....
I will most likely NOT be using 3.0 Electronics / The Hybrid swap for the 3.5 anymore.
Trying to tackle an effective tuning solution has lead me to this conclusion.
This is where I stand....
3.0 Electronics:
-JWT ECU
-Some sort of piggyback
-Pay for a mechanic swapping over timing to the 3.0
-Extra downtime for wiring some new things because I'm using 3.0 electronics....
Using a Haltech Platinum Pro 1k
-Covers everything I want to do on the track and on the road, and an awesome tuning solution
-No longer needing to switch timing, cutting down on swap cost and downtime
-Sadly I will have to utilize the VTC's, something I did not want to deal with.....
The cost end up nearly the same, but maybe a bit more for keeping things 3.5 because I will probably end up having to buy an engine wiring harness (cheap for me
), but I think I will probably end up just with the PS-1k because it's regarded by everyone who fools with the tuning of cars as an awesome start, and easy enough for even a complete n00b like me to tune on.So in a near twist of fate... Somehow Surratt you won.... For now
Now I will be trying to figure out what to do about wiring the Haltech to my car, most likely I will have to utilize a newer 3.5 harness from the Altima and re-wire it in (or hell many just PNP at that point because of the near similarity to the Rev-Up/HR ecu's), but purchasing the Haltech unit will be the first piece to the puzzle and I will probably back this build up even more because I will probably practice tuning on the 3.0 (make all the mistakes I can on this motor).
So my current course of action to take in the next 30 days or so....
-Take care of tickets
-Buy Haltech
Then later down the road in November....
-Buy Altima Motor
-Move on to the cheaper stuff
-Pray to god I have my swap up and running for an IFO this year.....
So my question is... Who has went full Standalone on a 4th gen? I have not researched that much in this issue because I really thought I was NOT going to be a standalone guy, but all roads lead to that now with the more and more people I talk to and who fully understand what my plans/goals are....
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
I will most likely NOT be using 3.0 Electronics / The Hybrid swap for the 3.5 anymore.
Trying to tackle an effective tuning solution has lead me to this conclusion.
This is where I stand....
3.0 Electronics:
-JWT ECU
-Some sort of piggyback
-Pay for a mechanic swapping over timing to the 3.0
-Extra downtime for wiring some new things because I'm using 3.0 electronics....
Using a Haltech Platinum Pro 1k
-Covers everything I want to do on the track and on the road, and an awesome tuning solution
-No longer needing to switch timing, cutting down on swap cost and downtime
-Sadly I will have to utilize the VTC's, something I did not want to deal with.....
The cost end up nearly the same, but maybe a bit more for keeping things 3.5 because I will probably end up having to buy an engine wiring harness (cheap for me), but I think I will probably end up just with the PS-1k because it's regarded by everyone who fools with the tuning of cars as an awesome start, and easy enough for even a complete n00b like me to tune on.
So in a near twist of fate... Somehow Surratt you won.... For now
Now I will be trying to figure out what to do about wiring the Haltech to my car, most likely I will have to utilize a newer 3.5 harness from the Altima and re-wire it in (or hell many just PNP at that point because of the near similarity to the Rev-Up/HR ecu's), but purchasing the Haltech unit will be the first piece to the puzzle and I will probably back this build up even more because I will probably practice tuning on the 3.0 (make all the mistakes I can on this motor).
So my current course of action to take in the next 30 days or so....
-Take care of tickets
-Buy Haltech
Then later down the road in November....
-Buy Altima Motor
-Move on to the cheaper stuff
-Pray to god I have my swap up and running for an IFO this year.....
So my question is... Who has went full Standalone on a 4th gen? I have not researched that much in this issue because I really thought I was NOT going to be a standalone guy, but all roads lead to that now with the more and more people I talk to and who fully understand what my plans/goals are....
Originally Posted by aackshun
I have reached a new crossroads... And sadly I will have to go against some of my own theories and principles.I will most likely NOT be using 3.0 Electronics / The Hybrid swap for the 3.5 anymore.
Trying to tackle an effective tuning solution has lead me to this conclusion.
This is where I stand....
3.0 Electronics:
-JWT ECU
-Some sort of piggyback
-Pay for a mechanic swapping over timing to the 3.0
-Extra downtime for wiring some new things because I'm using 3.0 electronics....
Using a Haltech Platinum Pro 1k
-Covers everything I want to do on the track and on the road, and an awesome tuning solution
-No longer needing to switch timing, cutting down on swap cost and downtime
-Sadly I will have to utilize the VTC's, something I did not want to deal with.....
The cost end up nearly the same, but maybe a bit more for keeping things 3.5 because I will probably end up having to buy an engine wiring harness (cheap for me
), but I think I will probably end up just with the PS-1k because it's regarded by everyone who fools with the tuning of cars as an awesome start, and easy enough for even a complete n00b like me to tune on.So in a near twist of fate... Somehow Surratt you won.... For now
Now I will be trying to figure out what to do about wiring the Haltech to my car, most likely I will have to utilize a newer 3.5 harness from the Altima and re-wire it in (or hell many just PNP at that point because of the near similarity to the Rev-Up/HR ecu's), but purchasing the Haltech unit will be the first piece to the puzzle and I will probably back this build up even more because I will probably practice tuning on the 3.0 (make all the mistakes I can on this motor).
So my current course of action to take in the next 30 days or so....
-Take care of tickets
-Buy Haltech
Then later down the road in November....
-Buy Altima Motor
-Move on to the cheaper stuff
-Pray to god I have my swap up and running for an IFO this year.....
So my question is... Who has went full Standalone on a 4th gen? I have not researched that much in this issue because I really thought I was NOT going to be a standalone guy, but all roads lead to that now with the more and more people I talk to and who fully understand what my plans/goals are....
AWWWWWWWWWWWWW MANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
hahahah
ONE problem with your new plans...
Haltech PS 1k, = Ign 1 ,2 ,3, 4
Haltech PS 2k = Ign 1, 2,3, 4, 5, 6
Pretty sure you cant use the 1k on a 6 coil on plug car. UNLESS you used wasted spark which is possible but id want a ECU that has all 6 ign coil outputs FOR SURE.
EDIT: it also has 4 injector outputs, so IMO i would not even mess with a sport 1k, it might run a v6 but you need full control of all 6 coils and 6 injectors.
I researched the PS2k a LOT and i ALLMOST GOT it. ONLY reason i didn't get it was the way it controls EVT is not optimal. IT controls IVT great but it cant handle EVT in the same manner.
So for a Altima motor the PS 2k will be a great standalone!
Without being a big 4th gen guy im thinking , if you don't have to mess with obd2 inspection you can easily run full standalone.
Quote:
hahahah
This gets more and more expensive the more I look into it -__-;;Originally Posted by SurraTT
AWWWWWWWWWWWWW MANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNhahahah
I wanted to keep it under a certain dollar amount but I have to spend about $500 more or so..... which adds another two weeks XD
BUT! After talking to the local tuning shop.... THERE'S LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL!!!!
Think Haltech and Z32 or R33
Haltech is awesome, I'm gonna buy that first before the motor, this seems like a fun adventure.....
First really tuned VQ30DE coming to a forum near you?
Or how about a Z32 ECU on nistune and I get to stick to my 3.0L ways
Or how about Megasquirt?
I think I ran outta ideas...
Or how about Megasquirt?
I think I ran outta ideas...
Z32 crank/cam sensors wont work/not the same as vq30. Z32 has vtc's i am pretty sure.
megasquirt is okay, but what is gonna control timing?
megasquirt is okay, but what is gonna control timing?
Quote:
megasquirt is okay, but what is gonna control timing?
I was just going to post that, I started diving into FSMs and found that out.Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Z32 crank/cam sensors wont work/not the same as vq30. Z32 has vtc's i am pretty sure. megasquirt is okay, but what is gonna control timing?
Apparently from some one else he told me Megasquirt can do anything I want it too, including a PWM signal for the Vari Cam Timing....
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
I wanted to keep it under a certain dollar amount but I have to spend about $500 more or so..... which adds another two weeks XD
BUT! After talking to the local tuning shop.... THERE'S LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL!!!!
Think Haltech and Z32 or R33
Haltech is awesome, I'm gonna buy that first before the motor, this seems like a fun adventure.....
First really tuned VQ30DE coming to a forum near you?
Originally Posted by aackshun
This gets more and more expensive the more I look into it -__-;;I wanted to keep it under a certain dollar amount but I have to spend about $500 more or so..... which adds another two weeks XD
BUT! After talking to the local tuning shop.... THERE'S LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL!!!!
Think Haltech and Z32 or R33
Haltech is awesome, I'm gonna buy that first before the motor, this seems like a fun adventure.....
First really tuned VQ30DE coming to a forum near you?
Vq35 tuning is not cheap. Period just how it is. Cheapest vq35 tuning is utec which is basically just ign and fuel control with some other stuff.
I dont think Z32 or R33 type ecus is going to help you any.
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
Apparently from some one else he told me Megasquirt can do anything I want it too, including a PWM signal for the Vari Cam Timing....
Originally Posted by aackshun
I was just going to post that, I started diving into FSMs and found that out.Apparently from some one else he told me Megasquirt can do anything I want it too, including a PWM signal for the Vari Cam Timing....
Im not a expert on MS but from what ive read/seen. Personally id probably never mess with it.
HR Swap Pioneer
What about Z33 ecu + osiris.
Do you need A/c do you need Cruise? If not it could be a pretty simple setup.
Do you need A/c do you need Cruise? If not it could be a pretty simple setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SurraTT
Vq35 tuning is not cheap. Period just how it is. Cheapest vq35 tuning is utec which is basically just ign and fuel control with some other stuff.
Quote:
Fuel Control- The UTEC takes control of your vehicles fueling at a define-able TPS point that is programmable. Fuel is tuned by an MAF offset table, a simple but effective technique. The load reference we use is RPM vs. MAF Voltage. The UTEC can also take in our optional MAP sensor to tune RPM vs. MAP or you can just use the MAP reading in your datalogs. This allows the fuel map to be adjusted at each of the 250 rpm resolution with over 10 different load sites from zero to rev limit.
Ignition Timing- The UTEC gives you complete control of timing. This is not done on the basis of offsets or altering the crank signal as some engine management systems use. The load reference we use is RPM vs. MAF or MAP which is optional. This allows the fuel map to be adjusted at each of the 250 rpm resolution with over 10 different load sites from zero to rev limit. When you enter a value into the Ignition Map you are actually typing in Degrees Before Top Dead Center. The UTEC fires the coils based on these values. No more wondering if the stock ecu is going to advance or retard timing.
Knock Control- This feature allows you to help keep your motor in one piece. The UTEC contains default knock thresholds but can be adjusted at 1000 rpm increments up to 9000 rpm. It also contains a Knock Count threshold that allows you to define how many counts of knock before the UTEC will respond with a Knock Retard Step. The Knock Retard Step is the amount of ignition timing that will be pulled per knock count to a defined Knock Maximum Retard. Knock Maximum Retard relates to the maximum degrees of timing the UTEC will retard per knock event. When a knock count is registered the UTEC will hold the retard for a set number of crank cycles this is called Knock Retard Duration. The UTEC also has the ability to apply a global Knock Correction to the entire map once a knock event is evident. This will help ensure that you keep your high compression monster together. All of these features are the UTEC’s safety net. They should be used pro-active not as a reactive measure.
Datalogging- The UTEC Datalogging function helps you to keep an eye on your engines vitals. Using the logger gives you all the information you want to know about your vehicle. You can take multiple logs of your vehicle whether it’s simple drive ability or all out racing. You can be sure the UTEC is keeping an eye out when you can’t. The main logger (Number1) contains rpm, map, maf voltage, tps, load site, afr, ignition timing, injector duty cycle, modified fuel (fuel control) and more. Logs can be output into text files or csv files for easy comparison. When the UTEC is used with a TXS Tuner model it can also supply you with w/b afr readings in your logs as well. Giving you the ultimate tuning package.
Remote Map Selector- The remote selector gives you the capability to switch between your UTEC maps. It also allows you to revert back to full stock ecu control on map 0 (when stock sized injectors are used). Maps 1 through 5 are your UTEC tunable map locations. Map 7 is your security mode, the car will not start. The car cannot be bump started or jumped when security mode is enabled
What more do you need?Fuel Control- The UTEC takes control of your vehicles fueling at a define-able TPS point that is programmable. Fuel is tuned by an MAF offset table, a simple but effective technique. The load reference we use is RPM vs. MAF Voltage. The UTEC can also take in our optional MAP sensor to tune RPM vs. MAP or you can just use the MAP reading in your datalogs. This allows the fuel map to be adjusted at each of the 250 rpm resolution with over 10 different load sites from zero to rev limit.
Ignition Timing- The UTEC gives you complete control of timing. This is not done on the basis of offsets or altering the crank signal as some engine management systems use. The load reference we use is RPM vs. MAF or MAP which is optional. This allows the fuel map to be adjusted at each of the 250 rpm resolution with over 10 different load sites from zero to rev limit. When you enter a value into the Ignition Map you are actually typing in Degrees Before Top Dead Center. The UTEC fires the coils based on these values. No more wondering if the stock ecu is going to advance or retard timing.
Knock Control- This feature allows you to help keep your motor in one piece. The UTEC contains default knock thresholds but can be adjusted at 1000 rpm increments up to 9000 rpm. It also contains a Knock Count threshold that allows you to define how many counts of knock before the UTEC will respond with a Knock Retard Step. The Knock Retard Step is the amount of ignition timing that will be pulled per knock count to a defined Knock Maximum Retard. Knock Maximum Retard relates to the maximum degrees of timing the UTEC will retard per knock event. When a knock count is registered the UTEC will hold the retard for a set number of crank cycles this is called Knock Retard Duration. The UTEC also has the ability to apply a global Knock Correction to the entire map once a knock event is evident. This will help ensure that you keep your high compression monster together. All of these features are the UTEC’s safety net. They should be used pro-active not as a reactive measure.
Datalogging- The UTEC Datalogging function helps you to keep an eye on your engines vitals. Using the logger gives you all the information you want to know about your vehicle. You can take multiple logs of your vehicle whether it’s simple drive ability or all out racing. You can be sure the UTEC is keeping an eye out when you can’t. The main logger (Number1) contains rpm, map, maf voltage, tps, load site, afr, ignition timing, injector duty cycle, modified fuel (fuel control) and more. Logs can be output into text files or csv files for easy comparison. When the UTEC is used with a TXS Tuner model it can also supply you with w/b afr readings in your logs as well. Giving you the ultimate tuning package.
Remote Map Selector- The remote selector gives you the capability to switch between your UTEC maps. It also allows you to revert back to full stock ecu control on map 0 (when stock sized injectors are used). Maps 1 through 5 are your UTEC tunable map locations. Map 7 is your security mode, the car will not start. The car cannot be bump started or jumped when security mode is enabled
The stock ECU's won't because of the difference in the motor, I will have to take another gander @ RB stuff to see how they work, I don't know anyone I can call up and chat RB with.
But I was mainly looking into the Plug n Play haltechs for Z32s / R32-33's because atleast the connector is the same, some crazy re-pinning/wiring would occur (maybe? didn't look into it) but with the haltech you can do whatever the hell you want, including adding tables and controls for our CPS Ref+Pos and Cam sensors that the Z32 does not have.... Hell the guy said if you want your car to honk it's horn at a certain rpm and pop trunk at full stops he can make the Haltech do that... (He was just conveying how open it is to adding tables and tuning and controllin things).
@ Kevlo, a product that's NOT discountinued....
Ok, and I want to know for absolutely sure.... What is wrong with e-manage? Everyone keeps saying... "Don't get E-Manage" but never ever explains, because I really did like my original plan of JWT+EU to tune....
But I was mainly looking into the Plug n Play haltechs for Z32s / R32-33's because atleast the connector is the same, some crazy re-pinning/wiring would occur (maybe? didn't look into it) but with the haltech you can do whatever the hell you want, including adding tables and controls for our CPS Ref+Pos and Cam sensors that the Z32 does not have.... Hell the guy said if you want your car to honk it's horn at a certain rpm and pop trunk at full stops he can make the Haltech do that... (He was just conveying how open it is to adding tables and tuning and controllin things).
@ Kevlo, a product that's NOT discountinued....
Ok, and I want to know for absolutely sure.... What is wrong with e-manage? Everyone keeps saying... "Don't get E-Manage" but never ever explains, because I really did like my original plan of JWT+EU to tune....
Quote:
Do you need A/c do you need Cruise? If not it could be a pretty simple setup.
i too like this setup. although i think you can keep the ac with some creative wiring.Originally Posted by SurraTT
What about Z33 ecu + osiris. Do you need A/c do you need Cruise? If not it could be a pretty simple setup.
Senior Member
Quote:
I will most likely NOT be using 3.0 Electronics / The Hybrid swap for the 3.5 anymore.
Trying to tackle an effective tuning solution has lead me to this conclusion.
This is where I stand....
3.0 Electronics:
-JWT ECU
-Some sort of piggyback
-Pay for a mechanic swapping over timing to the 3.0
-Extra downtime for wiring some new things because I'm using 3.0 electronics....
Using a Haltech Platinum Pro 1k
-Covers everything I want to do on the track and on the road, and an awesome tuning solution
-No longer needing to switch timing, cutting down on swap cost and downtime
-Sadly I will have to utilize the VTC's, something I did not want to deal with.....
The cost end up nearly the same, but maybe a bit more for keeping things 3.5 because I will probably end up having to buy an engine wiring harness (cheap for me), but I think I will probably end up just with the PS-1k because it's regarded by everyone who fools with the tuning of cars as an awesome start, and easy enough for even a complete n00b like me to tune on.
So in a near twist of fate... Somehow Surratt you won.... For now
Now I will be trying to figure out what to do about wiring the Haltech to my car, most likely I will have to utilize a newer 3.5 harness from the Altima and re-wire it in (or hell many just PNP at that point because of the near similarity to the Rev-Up/HR ecu's), but purchasing the Haltech unit will be the first piece to the puzzle and I will probably back this build up even more because I will probably practice tuning on the 3.0 (make all the mistakes I can on this motor).
So my current course of action to take in the next 30 days or so....
-Take care of tickets
-Buy Haltech
Then later down the road in November....
-Buy Altima Motor
-Move on to the cheaper stuff
-Pray to god I have my swap up and running for an IFO this year.....
So my question is... Who has went full Standalone on a 4th gen? I have not researched that much in this issue because I really thought I was NOT going to be a standalone guy, but all roads lead to that now with the more and more people I talk to and who fully understand what my plans/goals are....
Go with the haltech option for sure. Originally Posted by aackshun
I have reached a new crossroads... And sadly I will have to go against some of my own theories and principles.I will most likely NOT be using 3.0 Electronics / The Hybrid swap for the 3.5 anymore.
Trying to tackle an effective tuning solution has lead me to this conclusion.
This is where I stand....
3.0 Electronics:
-JWT ECU
-Some sort of piggyback
-Pay for a mechanic swapping over timing to the 3.0
-Extra downtime for wiring some new things because I'm using 3.0 electronics....
Using a Haltech Platinum Pro 1k
-Covers everything I want to do on the track and on the road, and an awesome tuning solution
-No longer needing to switch timing, cutting down on swap cost and downtime
-Sadly I will have to utilize the VTC's, something I did not want to deal with.....
The cost end up nearly the same, but maybe a bit more for keeping things 3.5 because I will probably end up having to buy an engine wiring harness (cheap for me
), but I think I will probably end up just with the PS-1k because it's regarded by everyone who fools with the tuning of cars as an awesome start, and easy enough for even a complete n00b like me to tune on.So in a near twist of fate... Somehow Surratt you won.... For now
Now I will be trying to figure out what to do about wiring the Haltech to my car, most likely I will have to utilize a newer 3.5 harness from the Altima and re-wire it in (or hell many just PNP at that point because of the near similarity to the Rev-Up/HR ecu's), but purchasing the Haltech unit will be the first piece to the puzzle and I will probably back this build up even more because I will probably practice tuning on the 3.0 (make all the mistakes I can on this motor).
So my current course of action to take in the next 30 days or so....
-Take care of tickets
-Buy Haltech
Then later down the road in November....
-Buy Altima Motor
-Move on to the cheaper stuff
-Pray to god I have my swap up and running for an IFO this year.....
So my question is... Who has went full Standalone on a 4th gen? I have not researched that much in this issue because I really thought I was NOT going to be a standalone guy, but all roads lead to that now with the more and more people I talk to and who fully understand what my plans/goals are....
3.0 timing with a piggyback is gonna hold you back.
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Or how about Megasquirt?
I think I ran outta ideas...
Using a Z32 ecu is possible, but you're gonna be paving the road. Don't think anyone has done it, so that means more downtime and more money.Originally Posted by aackshun
Or how about a Z32 ECU on nistune and I get to stick to my 3.0L ways Or how about Megasquirt?
I think I ran outta ideas...
I wouldn't use megasquirt, pretty finicky system from what I have heard. No real experience with it though.
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
Yes Ac is possible but cruise not possible without CAN ABS unitOriginally Posted by Kevlo911
i too like this setup. although i think you can keep the ac with some creative wiring.
None of the RB sensors are similar to the VQ30 either.
There are SR20's with a VQ30 style ecu connector but i doubt they will work
There are SR20's with a VQ30 style ecu connector but i doubt they will work
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
But I was mainly looking into the Plug n Play haltechs for Z32s / R32-33's because atleast the connector is the same, some crazy re-pinning/wiring would occur (maybe? didn't look into it) but with the haltech you can do whatever the hell you want, including adding tables and controls for our CPS Ref+Pos and Cam sensors that the Z32 does not have.... Hell the guy said if you want your car to honk it's horn at a certain rpm and pop trunk at full stops he can make the Haltech do that... (He was just conveying how open it is to adding tables and tuning and controllin things).
@ Kevlo, a product that's NOT discountinued....
Originally Posted by aackshun
The stock ECU's won't because of the difference in the motor, I will have to take another gander @ RB stuff to see how they work, I don't know anyone I can call up and chat RB with.But I was mainly looking into the Plug n Play haltechs for Z32s / R32-33's because atleast the connector is the same, some crazy re-pinning/wiring would occur (maybe? didn't look into it) but with the haltech you can do whatever the hell you want, including adding tables and controls for our CPS Ref+Pos and Cam sensors that the Z32 does not have.... Hell the guy said if you want your car to honk it's horn at a certain rpm and pop trunk at full stops he can make the Haltech do that... (He was just conveying how open it is to adding tables and tuning and controllin things).
@ Kevlo, a product that's NOT discountinued....
Yes thats the things i like about the haltech standalone. They have a ton of user configs.
I have an EU, but why get a JWT?
I figured you ruled out an EU since you kept saying haltec
but yea the EU is the best option for us IMO.
I figured you ruled out an EU since you kept saying haltec
but yea the EU is the best option for us IMO.
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
???Originally Posted by Kevlo911
What more do you need?
They arent even being made anymore
The user interface is from 1984
The last update was in 2006
It dont touch cam control on the old motors much less intake AND exhaust cam control
The harness is built onto the unit makes it custom anytime its used on a non z33 type ecu plug.
They "go out" all the time.
Its a piggyback that still needs the stock ecu it cant fully run the motor
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
I figured you ruled out an EU since you kept saying haltec
but yea the EU is the best option for us IMO.
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I have an EU, but why get a JWT? I figured you ruled out an EU since you kept saying haltec
but yea the EU is the best option for us IMO.
3.0 timing yes. EU does seem to be it.
Quote:
They arent even being made anymore
The user interface is from 1984
The last update was in 2006
It dont touch cam control on the old motors much less intake AND exhaust cam control
The harness is built onto the unit makes it custom anytime its used on a non z33 type ecu plug.
They "go out" all the time.
Its a piggyback that still needs the stock ecu it cant fully run the motor
Originally Posted by SurraTT
???They arent even being made anymore
The user interface is from 1984
The last update was in 2006
It dont touch cam control on the old motors much less intake AND exhaust cam control
The harness is built onto the unit makes it custom anytime its used on a non z33 type ecu plug.
They "go out" all the time.
Its a piggyback that still needs the stock ecu it cant fully run the motor
Quote:
yupp, even VQ35's for people that don't wanna mess with cam timingOriginally Posted by SurraTT
3.0 timing yes. EU does seem to be it.
One major thing that bothers me about the EU is knock control. Greddy told us like 4 years ago that they would add it and fix it. But they stopped doing anything for the EU...
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
yupp, even VQ35's for people that don't wanna mess with cam timing
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
yupp, even VQ35's for people that don't wanna mess with cam timing
haha
Yeah
Back to Z33 + osiris
Crusie MIGHT WORK!!!
Setup:
Cable TB
4th gen cruise system
some wiring magic!
Ive thought about this before but never really tried it or looked into it a whole lot. As i didn't want to convert my 02 to cable. But being 4th gen cable stock and cable cruise control system stock it might be something to look into.
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
One major thing that bothers me about the EU is knock control. Greddy told us like 4 years ago that they would add it and fix it. But they stopped doing anything for the EU...
Yeah thats how it goes. Support for EMS systems is good at first then goes away.
Haltech and UpRev are on top of their systems!
Haltech sure looks awesome tho haha. Supra is 100% correct on that, especially paired with the 07+ Altima VQ. Looks like the ideal combo. Too bad the haltech's are two grand.
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Haltech sure looks awesome tho haha. Supra is 100% correct on that, especially paired with the 07+ Altima VQ. Looks like the ideal combo. Too bad the haltech's are two grand.
Yessss
The sport 2k is ~1800 ish with no harness
Now lookie here... this is a good option also..
the pnp 350z unit. can work as a standalone and has full control over intake and exhaust cams.
Look i even found you a STEAL OF ONE TOO
http://my350z.com/forum/engine/53276...brand-new.html
Edit: you could set this up many different ways.
But to use DBW you need a vq35 ecu.
Id recommend using cable TB , large tb at that, and possibly keep cruise working
Quote:
Back to Z33 + osiris
Crusie MIGHT WORK!!!
Setup:
Cable TB
4th gen cruise system
some wiring magic!
Ive thought about this before but never really tried it or looked into it a whole lot. As i didn't want to convert my 02 to cable. But being 4th gen cable stock and cable cruise control system stock it might be something to look into.
Originally Posted by SurraTT
haha Back to Z33 + osiris
Crusie MIGHT WORK!!!
Setup:
Cable TB
4th gen cruise system
some wiring magic!
Ive thought about this before but never really tried it or looked into it a whole lot. As i didn't want to convert my 02 to cable. But being 4th gen cable stock and cable cruise control system stock it might be something to look into.
IIRC, there are no cruise wires in the 4th gen ecu. Making the cruise system independent of the ecu. It needs a VSS/PNswitch/and a few other signals to work.
HR Swap Pioneer
Quote:
niceeee so it might be a good option!!!!!!!!!Originally Posted by Kevlo911
IIRC, there are no cruise wires in the 4th gen ecu. Making the cruise system independent of the ecu. It needs a VSS/PNswitch/and a few other signals to work.
ok i gotta get back to work, toooo many ideas going on!
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I figured you ruled out an EU since you kept saying haltec
but yea the EU is the best option for us IMO.
Why JWT? Until there is a smooth seamless way to get past 6550 I won't mess with stock ECU's, I don't care if you can't feel it in the car, if it shows on the dyno then it will show on the final ET @ the track, every .01 will count for me.Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I have an EU, but why get a JWT? I figured you ruled out an EU since you kept saying haltec
but yea the EU is the best option for us IMO.
Quote:
Can you explain a bit further on this? Meaning it can sense knock but it doesn't have that great of an ability to retard timing like J&S?Originally Posted by Kevlo911
One major thing that bothers me about the EU is knock control. Greddy told us like 4 years ago that they would add it and fix it. But they stopped doing anything for the EU...
Quote:
Yeah
Back to Z33 + osiris
Crusie MIGHT WORK!!!
Setup:
Cable TB
4th gen cruise system
some wiring magic!
Ive thought about this before but never really tried it or looked into it a whole lot. As i didn't want to convert my 02 to cable. But being 4th gen cable stock and cable cruise control system stock it might be something to look into.
Another reason why I don't want an OEM VQ35 Ecu in my car... E-gas.... Tool of the devil, I hate every car I drive with it, I don't need no computer tellin my TB what to do Originally Posted by SurraTT
haha Yeah
Back to Z33 + osiris
Crusie MIGHT WORK!!!
Setup:
Cable TB
4th gen cruise system
some wiring magic!
Ive thought about this before but never really tried it or looked into it a whole lot. As i didn't want to convert my 02 to cable. But being 4th gen cable stock and cable cruise control system stock it might be something to look into.
Even though w/ Haltech one can probably program a launch table and just work the clutch w/ my right foot pegged to the floor, i could probably even have it let up on the throttle a little bit between shifts.....
Quote:
Can you explain a bit further on this? Meaning it can sense knock but it doesn't have that great of an ability to retard timing like J&S?
Originally Posted by aackshun
Why JWT? Until there is a smooth seamless way to get past 6550 I won't mess with stock ECU's, I don't care if you can't feel it in the car, if it shows on the dyno then it will show on the final ET @ the track, every .01 will count for me.Can you explain a bit further on this? Meaning it can sense knock but it doesn't have that great of an ability to retard timing like J&S?
Gotcha.
It can read the KS(although me and a few others never understood the reading it gave out so never knew how accurate it was). It can't do anything with the signal even if it is reading the KS correctly. Greddy told us that it would be able to retard timing if it detects **** but they never implemented that.
CRAP CRAP CRAP CRAP! WHY DO I HAVE SCHOOL TO PAY FOR!!!!!!!
I have to say goodbye to $1400 in the next two weeks... Enroll in school and an impromptu trip to KS (damn HPD fix it tickets, gotta do my annual KS trip again, oh why am I reg'd in Kansas? Two words... no inspection)
I WANT THAT HALTECH NOW SO BAD, damn you Darren....
So with this Haltech questions..... What happens with my A/C, Speed Sensor and Cruise? And other little things VQ35 swappers deal with....
I have to say goodbye to $1400 in the next two weeks... Enroll in school and an impromptu trip to KS (damn HPD fix it tickets, gotta do my annual KS trip again, oh why am I reg'd in Kansas? Two words... no inspection)
I WANT THAT HALTECH NOW SO BAD, damn you Darren....
So with this Haltech questions..... What happens with my A/C, Speed Sensor and Cruise? And other little things VQ35 swappers deal with....
OK! So I talked to the shop and things are seeming on the up and up!
The plan is to fully swap a 07+ Altima VQ35DE with an 07+ Altima V6 harness and Haltech PS1000 for a Z33
This somehow keeps me in my original budget too!!!!
Now to source me a motor!
The plan is to fully swap a 07+ Altima VQ35DE with an 07+ Altima V6 harness and Haltech PS1000 for a Z33
This somehow keeps me in my original budget too!!!!
Now to source me a motor!