I think I should have just payed someone to put my system in with all this stress! I'm trying to install Alpine 9807, JBL components, and JBL 3-way coaxils. The problem right now is the components! Who the hell drilled those holes in the doors!!!! I got my stuff from crutchfield and they sent some adapter brakets that aren't lining up with the original holes on the door. So I drilled some holes in the braket and door so they will fit securily. My delimma right now is re-wiring the speakers to the crossovers, that I may place in the floor, and mounting the tweeters in the A-pillars. I hope I haven't confused anyone...Thanx in advance.

 

I don't get it, what's your question?

Most aftermarket speakers require you to drill holes.

 

Bro, when I got my stuff installed I thought the same thing. I had problem after problem. I ended up making my own ring adaptors to put onto the original speaker holders. What are you drilling into?

 

I got these plastic rings from Crutchfield to put the speakers on. I'm drilling new holes in it to match the holes I made on the door. My dilemma right now is how to get the wires through the doors and behind the paneling at the bottom of the passenger side to the trunk?

 

Wire it into the dooor the same way the stock ones came in. Just poke holes in the grommet and pull em thru., then to go to the trunk, pull up the snap down molding on the door silll.

 

Whatz grommet?

 

A grommet is a little rubber ring that allows wires, etc, to pass through it without letting dirt/water/etc to go through...
If you look between your door and your car, where the hinges are, you should see a big bundle of wires (well, they're all taped up, so it won't look like wires) passing through the space, and at each end of the bundle is a rubber grommet...

 

Is it possible to use the existing wire? My idea is to connect the existing wires to the aftermarket components, but then at the other end where the wires would go into the HU; i will connect the speaker wire that came with the aftermarket speakers to that end and then continue it to the crossover and then to the amp. Is that a good idea?

 

You can't just run new wiring through the existing gromets as the connection into the framing of the car is an actual wire harness connection, just like on the back of the head unit or on your power window controls on the door panels. You cannot simply just slide a new wire through. I've been working on this project as well this weekend, not an easy install especially as someone's first. Good luck and hope it comes out well.

 

I see that now. I figured that I would connect the new wire to the wires that are connected to the wire harness that's connected to the radio. NOw I don't know which wire goes to the speakers or the tweeters. Then I'm still trying to mount the speakers to the doors since I have to make new holes through the Dynamat. I feel like a character in a damn soap opera!

 

Yeah SEmy2K2go (nice sub box by the way) is right, the the front driver's side and passenger sides all connect to a harness at the frame so you can't just punch it through, well at least on my 2K1 non-bose but i've heard it's the same for 2K - 2K3 as well. however, the rear doors are not a problem to run wires through; that is no harness at the frames.

so what i did was when you open the door as wide as possible, either front driver's side or passenger's side, you will see a small round rubber grommet towards the top. i removed it, punched a hole, ran the wire through with the grommet so that when you need to put the grommet back it makes it easier, then it will appear right above the kick panel (either side is the same) then down under all the paneling that you need to remove and finally to the trunk. to get into the doors, i just made a small cut in the grommet and ran the other end through, zipped tied the wire along the the same factory grommet - done. hope this helps a little bit. good luck!

 

You can actually use the factory grommets and not drill any holes, I know because I did it in my 2K2 non bose SE. On the grommet on the door you just poke a slit in either the top or bottom of the grommet and push your wire through. On the body side of the car, there is an empty grommet just forward of the big factory connector. You can see it if you open your door all the way and look in the door crack from the outside of the car. You will see a round black grommet that runs into the car behind the kick panels. Just poke the grommet with a clothes hanger and it will fall into the kick panel area. When you run new speaker wire just put it in black split cable loom and it will look factory stock.
Depending on what kind of components you get, just hide the crossovers in the kick panel. I have Infinity kappa components and they fit fine. As for the tweeter you can use the factory mount with a little imagination or hot glue your tweeter the the factory location.

 

[QUOTE=mdmartin92]You can actually use the factory grommets and not drill any holes, I know because I did it in my 2K2 non bose SE.[QUOTE]

Once again, you cannot just run new wiring through the gromet/wire harness on the door frame of the car. As Shinnjee mentioned, the rear doors do not have this issue and running all new wires from the door to the cabin is fairly simple without poking or drilling any holes. The front doors are a bit more of a challenge. I am nearing 90% completion for my entire install (which I have been working on since Wednesday, excluding Thanksgiving. Will be completed tomorrow. Have taken many pics as well.

 

[QUOTE=SEmy2K2go][QUOTE=mdmartin92]You can actually use the factory grommets and not drill any holes, I know because I did it in my 2K2 non bose SE.
hmm just curious, which method of running the wires through the front doors did u finally decide to go with?

 

Yes please...which method?

 

The drill holes, insert new gromets from Lowe's, and run all new wiring method.

 

I'm sorry - not to sound like a or the that I am, but...I'm baffled as to how you can't put a hole or slit in the grommets and slip the wires through... Is there some way that the wire bundle takes up the entire grommet? I've never seen such a thing...
I'll have to take a look at my buddy's '00 when I get back to school...

 

Read this entire thread (post #9) explains why you cannot run new wiring through the door frame gromets.

 

I have to agree that you CANNOT run wires through the front doors without drilling. Check out the below pic. I had to drill a hole behind the kick panel to get my wire through there. There is no other way unless you use the pre-existing wiring. The stock wiring harness that connects from the car door to the car is a hard-wired PIN connector that will not accomodate another wire. The red arrows point to the connector and the yellow arrow is the wire I put in. This is a pic of the passenger side...so the door is on the right and the car is on the left. I hope this helps clear things up.

Tony

 

Can I still dynamat the doors, basically the bottom part where the speaker is, with that plastic still on?

 

Well, the plastic doesn't cover the speaker hole, and you can always peel it away from the bottom of the door and just stick it back in place when you're done. I chose the take all the plastic off since I ended up damping the entire door.

Tony

 

So the dynamat has to be attached to the metal to make a firm concealed fit?

 

Tony,
Look at your lower red arrow where the factory molex connector is connected to the body of the car. With your door open just the way it is now, get out of the car and walk around to the front of the door. Peek into the crack of the wide open door (remember from outside the car) and you will see an unused round grommet plug in there. It is literally about an inch forward of the factory molex connector that you have the lower red arrow pointing at. Just poke a clothes hanger in there and you have access to the area behind the kick panel.
As for the door just feel around the top of the molex connector and you will see that the top and bottom of the factory grommet is just rubber and does not have the hard plastic molex connector behind it. I agree you can't get a wire through the Factory connector, but you ban poke a slit in the top or bottom of the connecter just out side of the connector. I was able to easily get 14 guage speaker wire in there. Then just wrap your speaker wire in split loom covering for the stock look.
When I get back to work on Wed I will post a few picks, you mightl be ****ed that you drilled holes. This way is extremly easy and looks factory fresh.

 

Hmmmm....I hope I'm hearing you right. You mean to say you're asking if you can put Dynamat on top of the plastic? No. It needs to be firmly attached directly to the metal.

Tony

 

VERY interesting. I think I remember looking at this grommet and trying to find a way inside the car but couldn't....? Maybe not. Regardless, I think you are definitely right. I stand corrected. Where the **** were you when I was investigating this on the org during my install???

Tony

 

Okay this installation is too much for me. I just went ahead to a shop to get it installed. I'll take some pics and show what I got. But thank you all for your insight.

 

Tony,
I found out about this grommet on a post that I think you started a while back. I would find it but the search feature is down . I remember someone repling to your post but not really explaining the location of the grommet very well. I looked for it and it was just right there as plain as day.
I kinda have a funny story about my install. I was doing the install at work (North End Of Boston) and a damn seagull ate my grommet when I had it out of the car. I hate these birds. I couldn't believe my eyes, I was in the parking lot right next to the boat piers and a great big seagull walked right over and grabbed my passenger side grommet and flew away with it. I have been putting off getting a new one a Lowes. Even with it out no water seems to get in, I checked every time after washing the car and spraying water in the door crack.
Marc

 

Tony