krasavchic

Hi,

Here's a very interesting problem:
I connected a box and an amp to the Bose system. Everything was perfectly fine, but now, when I turn the volume on the HU louder (after particular point) the sub goes off, even though the amp is still working... The protection LED and thermal LED on the amp are off... that would mean, there are no problems with that...
The setup is RF PL2-212 box with the RF P3001 amp.

Anyone has a clue what is wrong???

TIA

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

yes your connections are probably loose on the rear bose. did you run the rcas from the rear bose? if you did then the movement of the rear bose is causing the wire that goes to the rca to come loose. in other words check you connections on the rear bose and rca wires

03SE2HEAR

You may have overloaded the input section of the P3001 by having the input gains up too high. Are you using a high-level output converter that's adjustable?? Does that PL2-212 fit pretty good in the trunk?? I'm considering one myself.

krasavchic

Thanks to everyone.
03SE2HEAR: it's only half way... About the connection, no I found the preamps coming out from the Bose's amp (the one used for their subwoofer on the back). PL2-212 is perfect in the trunk. Yea, it takes space... but it's worth that space Sounds great. I am going to get P5002 amp though instead of P3001... 3001 is not powerfull enough for this box...

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

i would think your sub cant handle it but i may be wrong.

krasavchic

No, the sub can handle it. It handles 400W RMS... the amp gives out only 150W...

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

i dont know, i would double check everything. you should test the amp out in another one of your friends car. most of the time its the wiring. if u could test the sub or amp in someone elses car you will def. or most likely find the problem

03SE2HEAR

I'm not sure how the Bose unit works. You may want to take a look into an adjustable high level output convertor with an amp trigger hooked to the rear speaker outputs. However, if the Bose source unit has a sub level control on it, then this may not work. I still think this has something to do with either too much or not enough voltage on the RCA's going into the amp. If the amp was being clipped hard enough at the outputs, it would go into thermal protection and shut down, then the protection light would come on. Your idea of going with the P5002 is better than sticking with the P3001. 500 Watts continuous bridged is a better match for the PL2-212 anyways.

krasavchic

Yeah,

I have already ordered P5002, capacitor, and PAC hi/low adapter. Hope to get the new amp soon, then I will know whether or not the problem is with the amp. I hope there's nothing wrong with Bose itself... I don't really wanna connect the amp to left/right rear speakers... well unless I easily find out which wires go to this speakers from Bose's amp...

For some reason, I started to doubt, whether or not Bose's sub works, when mine goes off... It's gonna be the first thing, I will take a look at, when I get home

krasavchic

That's it I got it working. Disconnected the Bose's sub, and now it works whatever the volume is. Before the power was split between the RF amp, and Bose's amp (for the sub). Now that the sub is off, all the power from preouts goes to RF amp. Seems to be fine... Can't wait until P5002 and the capacitor arrive. Anyway I also want to try to connect the amp through hi/low adapter Let's see what's gonna sound better

Thanks to everyone for the help!!!