Subwoofer blown help
Subwoofer blown help
Hey i've blown 2 different 10s now with my current setup....
i am moving on to 2 12 kicker comp cvrs....
will this amp do the trick because its what i got ... its a Kenwood KAC-8152D
I am just going to buy a sealed box and build a new amp rack.
Will this amp be good for 2 kicker cvr 400rms per sub single voice coil
any suggestions on other subwoofers in same price range are welcome..
thanks
i am moving on to 2 12 kicker comp cvrs....
will this amp do the trick because its what i got ... its a Kenwood KAC-8152D
I am just going to buy a sealed box and build a new amp rack.
Will this amp be good for 2 kicker cvr 400rms per sub single voice coil
any suggestions on other subwoofers in same price range are welcome..
thanks
the voltage was matched to deck
subs were wired at 4 ohm
I don't know what im doing wrong bass boost was only half way up
My buddy loaned me his extra CVR and its great for now so thats what i was thinking of doing..
subs were wired at 4 ohm
I don't know what im doing wrong bass boost was only half way up
My buddy loaned me his extra CVR and its great for now so thats what i was thinking of doing..
Originally Posted by nismos14
Take the money you were gonna spend on one cvr and buy one higher quality midline sub.
Originally Posted by machinehead131
the voltage was matched to deck
subs were wired at 4 ohm
I don't know what im doing wrong bass boost was only half way up
subs were wired at 4 ohm
I don't know what im doing wrong bass boost was only half way up
I'm with Iceman here - I'd figure out your issue before you drop more coin... The blown subs are not likely an indication of the quality of the subs themselves or the amps - it's more likely your install or your settings. If you were over-driving the subs (eg, too much constant power **remember - a sub has 2 ratings, peak and constant capabilities**) then you may just need to back down the gains or get beefier subs. I'd wonder, though, if you may have had a bad connection somewhere within the box. I've always built my own boxes so I had total control over that (and, if you have an amp that can take a 2 ohm load, wire those babies in parallel). One last note, keep in mind that a sealed box *will* give you tighter, punchier bass but at a lower overall dB - there's a reason that at soundoffs, all the comp. systems are usually ported enclosures... You'll get more "volume" out of a ported box but it will (to me at least) be sloppier sounding and, if you listen to anything other than rap/dance you'll like the sealed ones better. But - the sealed enclosures *DO* take more power to drive (because, in effect, you're powering the compression and decompression of the sealed volume of air in the box).
i still am stumped as to what it is, i think it was the box i built, but does anyone have advice as to how to build a good sealed enclosure for a specific sub, hopefully you guys can run me through the whole setup so i dont blow another sub this time, but ive been trying to figure it out and am still stumped.
Each sub's will have different characteristics, and thus require a different enclosure... Check the mfg website or the box and see what box volume they recommend for the type of enclosure you want (sealed or ported). Sealed generally require less space and produce tighter bass response but with higher power demands. Build the box out of MDF or Ultra-Board and do the math to get the enclosure to the right volume. Also, I always siliconed the snot out of the insides of the boxes, and even used rubber gaskets between the sub basket and the boxes to ensure a VERY air-tight enclosure. If you can push (gently) on the sub's cone and get it to push in (as in, air must be coming *out* somewhere) - you didn't seal well enough.
LOL @ bassboost only on 50% .
Ok heres a little lesson with bassboost.(Granted i barely use bassboost maybe 5% or less). If your sub is not tuned right ie(input sensitivity) being turned up more than it should be then it will cause clipping. All bass boost does is amplify distortion, and making the distortion more audible, it may appear it makes the sub a little louder but in the long run its just not worth i. So if your sub is distorting and you turn up bassboost you run a high risk of blowing the sub because of the increase in distortion.
Ok heres a little lesson with bassboost.(Granted i barely use bassboost maybe 5% or less). If your sub is not tuned right ie(input sensitivity) being turned up more than it should be then it will cause clipping. All bass boost does is amplify distortion, and making the distortion more audible, it may appear it makes the sub a little louder but in the long run its just not worth i. So if your sub is distorting and you turn up bassboost you run a high risk of blowing the sub because of the increase in distortion.
I'm not so sure I agree that "Bass Boost" is a distortion booster, although I definitely agree that increased distortion is usually the outcome... The bass boost takes the lower end of the frequency range and essentially increases the output at those frequencies - akin to raising the level on the lower 3 frequencies on a 7-band EQ. 50% *IS* extreme - and I agree that if your box is tuned properly and if your car is setup properly, you ought not be using bass boost. If your other speakers can achieve the 70+(ish) frequencies and your subs can respond up to that 70-80 range, your "bass-boost" should be achieved with a properly set gain on your sub amp(s).
It is alright if you have an amp that is too powerful for your sub tho, then you leave the gains down and the amp will run more efficent. So that is not a bad thing. I say look into other problems like that amp its self. if you start blowing a lot of subs with it there is a good chance that the amp is starting to deliver to much voltage to your subs. A classic sign of an amp that is having a failing powersupply/mosfet problem. Find the problem first
http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/w...p?series=9500f
9512 in a ported box, fed 1000kw will make your head hurt.
9512 in a ported box, fed 1000kw will make your head hurt.
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