Greetings.. seeking help 2002 max with bose

i attempted to install steering wheel control "aswc 1 axxee" and failed.

i got the power and ground connected and blue/yellow wire from my kenwood headunit to the brown wire of ASWC..

2 more wires coming from aswc1 to the vehicle harness the one with the trip control wiring.. i plugged in just as the manual asked but it,s not auto detecting and i cant figure out how to manually programe.. i am pretty sure the way i wired it is correct.


does anybody know what happens if the adapter thinks i have JVC unit cause the manual says if you have new kenwood unit it might be detected as jvc unit. my kenwood isnt that new kenwood dpx308u..

installation instructions http://contentdocs.installernet.com/...icle/10985.pdf

am i missing something..Thank you

 

I recommend calling Axxess support. They're actually VERY helpful and they'll stay on the phone with you until you get it fully working.

 

i will try axxess support tomorrow Thanks for the advice DJ

UPDATE..

called AXXESS support and they walked me through manual programming , the device was recognizing my stereo as JVC
it,s working perfectly now . ^_^

 

holy $hit, 25 pages! Long time no see everyone!

I have to update the main pages info since a bunch is outdated and, poorly written and misspelled. WTF was i thinking?

 

My fault

 

Any suggestions for replacing the rear deck sub? Did some research and saw that someone recommended a JL W7 but is that an IB sub? I noticed Dayton Audio popped up quite a bit searching around google, but does anyone have any recommendations?

 

any where i can get an audio link dp4 or maybe something better to use an aftermarket HU? if not i my try to do my own AUX mod for my 2001.

 

IB = infinite baffle. Requires the space behind the cone to be COMPLETELY sealed off from the space in front of the cone. You'd essentially have to make your trunk air tight.

Recommend you research 'free-air' subs, as this is the format you want in order to replace the rear deck sub.

 

What is an AudioLink DP4? Never heard of it and Google didn't yield much.

What specifically are you trying to do? Add Aux input?

 

Thank you! That's where I got sidetracked. I saw free air and then IB pop up and thought it was the same thing. Thanks again for the correction I'll start looking around again for reviews on free air subs.

 

I cannot find a dash kit for a jvc deck anywhere its a 6.1" screen any help?

 

Pls provide model # of your deck.

Any double din kit should work. May require minor modification.

 

Its a JVC KWAV71BT 7-Inch i just cant find the dash kit that will or i have to do some minor tweeking

 

Scosche, Metra, or look into finding the GXE kit.

 

Will ANY double-DIN unit plus something like a Metra installation kit fit into a 2002 SE dash currently containing the Bose HU?

Trying to assess options for replacing the Bose - the speakers are shot, the cd player makes clicking noises when I hit "eject", and of course there's no streaming, aux or USB inputs. I like keeping a stock look, but it's time to move on. Anyone have recommendations for a low cost, high sound and connectivity quality double DIN? Seems like all the majors have something with 3 sets of pre-outs and BluTooth for $150-$200. It comes down to what has best sound and reliability, with the requisite inputs, outputs. I think avoiding touch at lower price points makes sense, and I'm leaning toward a Clarion unit (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ion-CX501.html). Has 3 sets of 4v preouts, Blutooth, USB, aux, and Clarion used to have a good reputation for sound quality - comparable to Alpine. The newer JVCs and Kenwoods are feature packed, but seem pretty flimsy at lower price points.

 

Yes, any DD HU will fit. I haven't seen one that doesn't.

That deck is fine, as long as you stick with the major brands you should be fine.

 

Thanks - good to know. However, now I'm leaning back toward a single DIN with pocket. I know the look isn't as pleasing, but since my kid mostly listens to some kind of MP3 player, (his old 30gb Zune, maybe a buddy's Ipod, etc), the pocket is going to be more practical. Also, it seems like the manufacturers put their best efforts into the Single-DINs, with Doubles mostly more focused on Touch - which I don't want to get into (too expensive if it's going to be any good. Cheap touch = crap). After much reading of reviews, I'm probably going with the Alpine CDE147BT, which seems to have the best combo of solid BT, 4v preouts, and good sound..

I also started another thread, trying to figure out what exact system I have right now. HU says Bose all over it, but when I look in the trunk, no sub dropping down from the parcel shelf. What is supposed to be in the parcel shelf on a 2002 SE with Bose? Do I have some Frankenstein factory system? Whatever it is, it's going, as it sounds like crap, but I was curious.

 

Is there a cutout for where the sub should have been? Is there a speaker grill on your rear deck? Does it have a Bose logo?
Is there an amp under the rear deck?
If you're feeling adventurous you could also pop off a door panel and put a meter against the speaker to see what impedance it reads. That would help ID what you have.

Maybe someone installed a Bose deck into a non-Bose system? That could very well be why it sounds poor.

 

Ok, would someone just shoot me and put me out of my misery? Upon further review, there are no Bose logos on the HU - I have the base stereo. No wonder I could never hear that sub - lol! Well, good, that makes everything easier, since I was going with a fresh install anyway. I do have little grilles on the A pillars - did they just automatically put those there whether there's a tweeter or not? Or did the base stereo have little A-pillar tweeters?

 

You probably have a standard non-Bose tweeter back there.

 

Well, I'm going to find out. I'm ordering a 6.5" component set for the front. I'm curious about this one - it's so cheap for a comp set - $70. Cerwin Vega, which is a brand I like, but it's their low end and there are hardly any reviews online. Just two from Sonicelectronix, but they both liked them.

 

Interesting.

Cerwin Vega does not have a huge presence in the mobile audio game.

Let us know how you like them!

 

I will report back for sure on progress. I've done a few systems using middle of the road name brand stuff, and in general I've found that if you have a decent HU and amp, any mid-level speakers work out just fine. My older kids Crown Vic has the lowest line Kenwwod Excelon HU, I think it was $139, but has 4v preouts, a cheap Walmart Sony 4x50w amp, and Kenwood PS series 6x8s, plus a 500w fosgate Prime mono amp on a JL 10W3v3, and it sounds great. On the other hand, the last one we did, in my younger kids dearly departed 2001 Altima, never sounded good. That was a JVC 840 HU with 4.8v preouts, the Alpine MRP-F300 and MRP-M500 amps I still have, and supposedly decent Kicker 6 3/4" coaxials, with an old Infinity 10" Perfect in a nice sealed box. I don't know where the weak link was - I suspect the HU, maybe those speakers were no good. Anyway, the mids just weren't there at all, and it sounded mediocre at best. So this time, I'm going with a better HU (Alpine), the Alpine amps, but really cheap CV comp set and MTX coaxials for the rears. We'll see! Or hear. If the speakers are no good, I'd only have to replace the fronts - so not a total disaster. I don't think I can guarantee success with the speakers without stepping up into the $150+ per pair for coax or $300+ for comp set category.

 

Half way through right now. Removing the screws attaching the old HU to the mounting bracket was HARD. 3 out of 8 of the screw heads stripped, but I went and got a broken screw extractor, (reverse threaded conical end drill bit), drilled holes in the screws, and used the extractor. All three out in 5 mins. Going to mount tweeter on the triangular plastic mouldings by the rear view mirrors, too hard to get them into the A pillars, what with running speaker wire through the door grommet, etc. Woofers don't fit flush in the front door holes, so will be using a can of foam weather seal to seal up the gaps. Should help the sound. Rears fit flush - no problem.

 

So far so good - few things to clean up, but it's all in and operable. Too late to make adjustments tonight, but it sounds very good right away. This Alpine HU has about a zillion sound adjustments available, 9-band parametric equalizer, time correction, media expansion, spatial adjustment, etc, etc, even a way of sharing all your settings with other people and downloading their settings from the cloud. Think I'm sold - the sound was sooo much better with this HU, the same Alpine amps and cheaper Cerwin Vega Comp set and MTX coaxials vs the previous JVC HU with the same amps and more expensive Kicker speakers. I'm pretty sure it's the HU - those Kicker speakers should have been just fine. When everything is broken in and dialed in, I think this little system is going to rock! It's already much fuller and richer sounding.

 

Talking to myself again.....
The simple little system sounds good! Starting to use some of the setting features, set it to the "rock" canned eq with the "Media Expander" set to +1 , and adjusted down the highs a bit. I think those CV tweeters right next to my ears are pretty bright, but it's easy to tone them down. I'm really impressed with the cheap Cerwin Vega comp set and even cheaper MTX coaxials - a LOT of bass without the sub turned on - far more than Kickers and Kenwoods I've used previously. $69 for the fronts, $35 for the rears - seem like a true bargain. Construction seemed solid, fairly substantial magnets, easy fit. I'm liking them.

 

Nice job

 

Hi I have a quick question, sorry I know its been asked a lot but still sent understand. I just recently bought a pioneer avh-x1600 and pre amps are around 3v I have the 70-7551 harness and have the same problem of low volume. Should I get that loc that you have been recommending to everyone or would the pac roem-nis2 work just fine? The pac looks like an easier route. If you could help me that would be great. Thanks

 

I don't know why the PAC looks easier to you. An LOC is the same thing, and the PAC is more expensive.

 

Greetings,

I'm planning to replace my 99 maxima SE Bose stereo with Nexus 7 (2012 Model). I'm going to follow the following method - Computer DVD Drive hack to install the Tablet.

http://www.mp3car.com/android-tablet...dvd-drive.html

I'm planning to utilize the tablet's headphone jack for the audio. So could you pls let me know what are the necessary parts I need for the audio integration?

I still don't know which one I need to get like Metra Part 70-7551 or PAC OEM NIS2. I'm not looking for great sound, but it should be decent enough with any distortion.

Pls advise.

Appreciate your help.

 

Unsure how you will power your device, however you will need to find a way to enable the remote turn-on wire for your Bose HU. Much of the other wiring is irrelevant except for signal - you will need to find a way to take that headphone output, splice the wire and make it compatible with a Line Output Converter.

 

Thanks a bunch for your kind reply.

One of my friends said he can take care of the powering issue using USB OTG cable.

Regarding the headphone output, I'm not familiar with Line Output Converter. Could you please suggest one? Also, in this case, I don't need to get any other products like Metra 70-7551 or PAC OEM NIS2?

My assumption is that we can plugin the Line Output Converter directly to Bose amp stereo cable which is currently connected to the Bose stereo. Am I correct?

Again, thanks for your help.

 

LOC: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SLC4/Scosche-SLC4.html

You will still need Metra 70-7550 for the harness matching. It will help identify the signal wires, will help your friend with the power cables, and also the remote turn on.

 

Thanks again for your quick reply. I think I got what I wanted mostly.

So I will need the following parts if I am using the Headphone audio right?
1. Scosche-SLC4
2. Metra 70-7550

Also I can connect the SLC4 directly to the existing audio out cable of the HU right? Do you think this way I can get a decent audio?

If I wanted to use for better sound quality what parts should I buy?

Pls advise.

Thanks again.

 

I recommend you read this thread in its entirety to understand what exactly you're trying to do. Right now you're missing the baseline knowledge needed to properly use the above components.

You will also need a male headphone cable which you will cut and splice into the SLC4 which will then get spliced into the 70-7550, which then gets connected to your car's OEM harness.

You do not need a headphone amp.

 

Thanks for the detailed connection information. Sorry for my ignorance.

Now I have all the information I needed to work on my project and will update the forum once I'm done with it.

 

Thanks for all of the helpful info. I'm planning on doing a major overhaul of audio in my '01 this summer, because the Bose unit has started to die. I'm going JL Audio for doors/subs/amps. (Don't know specific models, yet. Going to see what I can get) and I think I am going single DIN, even though touch screens are attractive, I feel like the resolution is never high enough for me, and the menus look so outdated. (Guess I'm used to smartphone GUIs) Anyway, is there any specific advice you might have on rattle reduction? That was already an issue with the stock 10, and I know it will be if I can get the sub setup I want. (2 10s and a 12 ) I know there was a thread on here about it a few years ago when I joined, I'm still trying to find it, though. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks.

edit: Any tips, period haha. Not just on rattle reduction.

 

Majority of rattle comes from the trunk lid and rear deck. Focus there and you'll reduce much of the rattle.

 

Thanks for the tip. I figured there was a lot coming from that area. Especially the deck.

 

Hello Again,

I'm almost ready for the Google Nexus 7 integration. I need help on connecting the headphone cables to the SLC4 actually. SLC4 got many input terminals like front left+,front left-, front right+, front right - etc. So my understanding is:

1. I will need to connect the +(Positive) cable from my headphone cable to all of the +ve input terminal of the SLC4 and connect the -ve cable in the same way. Is that correct? Will I get stereo sound quality with this method?

2. Keep the SLC4 selector switch on the Factory Amp position. is this correct?

I'm following Illustration D from the SLC4 manual.

Pls advise.

As always, appreciate your help.