I have a couple of questions.

I just installed two boss tw-17 tweeters in place of my factory bose tweeters. I used the filters that were already in line. I just detached them and soldered them inline to my new tweeters. Is this a good setup or do I need to buy different filters? Does anybody know how much power runs to the stock tweets? Where would be the optimal location for tweeters in a '95 max? Thanks....

 

sounds fine to me

Adam

 

apologize a little off subject. I saw the same Boss TW-17 tweeters for 25.95 on millionbuy.com. They are 100-watt tweets. Can they be used on a non-Bose car? I have a '00 GXE with basic 4-speaker setup and 180-watt Clarion 5655 headunit. Is 100 watt enough? What to look for in tweeters?

 

yea...

I'm not absolutely sure what you are asking. The boss tw-17's are aftermarket tweeters... they can be used with any setup. I have them running with just the stock bose and they are very loud and clear. 100 watts on these tweeters will be VERY loud.. Basically with tweeters... what you pay for is what you get. There really aren't too many different designs.

 

I dont have a BOSE unit in my car. My Maxima is a GXE with 4-speaker setup. I replaced the OEM AM/FM/tape with Clarion headunit. If I hook up my tweeters to door speakers, will there be less bower going to the speakers, or the sound coming from the speakers' will be unaffected? Thanks

 

Consider that crossover frequency is determined by the speaker impedance. Now if your new tweets are a different impedance, then the crossover frequency will be affected. Also, most tweeter circuits use a resistor to match the output of the mids. If the new tweets are more or less efficient than the old tweets the output will likewise be different.

 

shoot...these are factory 6 3/4's..I dont know what they are, but I hope to change 'em someday...

 

Sorry, the only tweeters I know of that are as large as 6 3/4 inches are ribbons. And most of them are too deep to practicly install in a car. I think you need to reread where my comments were directed.

 

Where would be the optimal location for tweeters in a '95 max?

 

This weekend i started installing my aftermarket system, in my 2k SE. In the first 10 minutes i ended up pulling a muscle in my back, leaving me all hunched and crap. Anyway what i could have done in 8 hours, i am still working on.

I took out the bose HU, all four speakers. I re-wired the speakers in the passenger doors, but when i got to the front door, i couldn't pass the wire from the kick panel to the inside of the door.

Frustrated, i thought heck with it i will just tap into the factory wiring that comes into the bose amp in the trunk. So i successfully installed the amp, changed all four speakers. Tested it, it works great. Now the only problem is that the front door speakers don't work. I cannot for the life of it, find which wires to tap into for the front speakers. I have pretty much read all the threads. There is information on wire colors and so forth, but all suggest different wire. Some say they are pink and blue, some say white amd brown!!

Does anyone know which factory wires, the ones that are running into the fact amp in the trunk, i need to tap into???? Please help i am about to pull out my hair Since i have already pulled my back

Also if i do tap into the factory front speaker wiring, what will happen to the bose tweets??? Will they work fine,,,or will they burn or mess up the rest of the after market system??/

Help

 

LOL I meant the door speakers not tweeters. You're funny dude

 

I know what you meant. I was just making the point.

 

What i dont understand is why would anybody wanna get rid of BOSE Tweeters and install boss? I know boss is really cheap co. and BOSE is superior than many co. that produces speakers out there. I wanted to get aftermarket speakers too so what i did was left bose tweeters also where they were but i tapped into the wiring and pulled wires all the way to reardeck and installed audiobahn tweeters there and it sounds nice and clear, no distortion at all at high treble.

 

this is not as hard as it seems....i just completely rewired my 95...i just ran new speaker wire from the trunk, through the car (pick where you want to run, either along the side, or throught the middle, under the console) and then just run them into the door from the interior just like the rest of the wires run....

 

The stock bose tweeters are crap! They don't put much volume out at all. I used the boss because they were free. I am in between systems right now... I am working on a jl audio system right now. It should have two sets of jl components, two 12" w6's, and three jl amps. I probably won't be able to afford all of it till after christmas. The boss was just to make a little noise.

 

I need a little help with something else too.....!

I had a kenwood ws253 10" sub and a kac-629 150w amp sitting in the apartment. My friend asked if i would put it in his mazda b-series truck, and i said sure. Well, i installed it all last night. Everything works fine except for one thing. The stock reciever will not turn on. I checked all the fuses and they all seem to be ok. I have a hunch that it may have something to do with how I wired the remote turn on for the amp. I clamped the wire to one of the prongs on the fuse for the radio.... I was under the impression that this would work fine though. Somebody please help me out!!! I feel really bad for ****ing his truck up!!

Thanks....!

 

Actually i would much rather run new wire to the front door speakers, i already ran new wire to the speakers in the passenger doors. The problem is that in the 2k se, i cannot find any place to run the wire from the kick panel to inside of the door. The fact wiring running to the inside of the door has no place to run the new wire...

 

The 95' didn't have a place for the new wire to go either, so I just made a place for it to go....i opened the door, located the wire streching from the door to the body, and made a slight incicision into the rubber gromets surrounding the factory wiring on both sides, and just slipped the new wire in the door, then into the car in the incisions...after it is run, just wrap a bunch of good quality electrical tape around you new wire and the factory wires (after you try your best to clean the surface of the factory wire) and you should be fine....mine worked out great......


hope this helps

b

 

The 95' didn't have a place for the new wire to go either, so I just made a place for it to go....i opened the door, located the wire streching from the door to the body, and made a slight incicision into the rubber gromets surrounding the factory wiring on both sides, and just slipped the new wire in the door, then into the car in the incisions...after it is run, just wrap a bunch of good quality electrical tape around you new wire and the factory wires (after you try your best to clean the surface of the factory wire) and you should be fine....mine worked out great......

Thats what i did on the rear doors. The rubber surrounding the wires, which come out of the car, going into the door, have sort of an adapter held in by a screw. I took out the screw and pulled out the adapter,,,still no room. Maybe i will just have to drill holes!!!