08 NON-BOSE install
#1
08 NON-BOSE install
Hi All,
I've been scouring this site and the web and can't seem to find what I'm looking for, for an 08 Non-Bose.
Anyways, I have an 08 Max NON-BOSE/non-nav. I went with the non-bose thinking that I was going to redo the system. Anyways, my
*first option would be to add a sub to the stock unit, but I think the result would be less than par.
*Second option would be to add a head unit and sub, however, I haven't been able to find pics of what it would look like or where the hu would even go. Does anyone have install pics of this?
Oh, is it possible to NOT lose the use of the display (which I've read can happen with the 08s). Also, the hu will not be a doubledin.
Also, along with pictures, has anyone done this and if its possible?
I've been scouring this site and the web and can't seem to find what I'm looking for, for an 08 Non-Bose.
Anyways, I have an 08 Max NON-BOSE/non-nav. I went with the non-bose thinking that I was going to redo the system. Anyways, my
*first option would be to add a sub to the stock unit, but I think the result would be less than par.
*Second option would be to add a head unit and sub, however, I haven't been able to find pics of what it would look like or where the hu would even go. Does anyone have install pics of this?
Oh, is it possible to NOT lose the use of the display (which I've read can happen with the 08s). Also, the hu will not be a doubledin.
Also, along with pictures, has anyone done this and if its possible?
#2
teeezmaxSE- I just got an 08 SE non-bose/non-nav. I just purchased a pioneer 3100 dvd for it and plan to install it next week if the wife lets me keep it haha. If I get to do that, I'll try to get some pics and whatnot. Should be interesting though because I've never done a thing like this before.
#4
#5
#6
TeeezMaxSE, I have posted pictures of my install below which was done on my non-Bose/non-Navi 2007 Maxima SE. If you want to keep the display that read MPG/MPH/DTE you'll need the Metra NIRD-01. I purchased the AVIC-F700BT and I love it thus far. My system is being powered by JL A6450 6 channel amp, and I have Polk speakers all the way around. let me tell you that this is an extremely great improvement over stock.
#7
IIRC, you don't have to buy that metra product to keep the screen working. You can just hide the factory radio in the lower dash with all the audio going into the aftermarket, and the trip info and other stuff into the factory radio. Only downside is you can't see the buttons to change anything, but i figure you could just make your own button somehow for the trip info. I'll try to find where I saw this info and post back.
#8
I take absolutely no credit for this. All of that goes to grsiepka over on 6thgenmaxima. Hope this helps and I'll hopefully be puttin this write up to work very soon. Bought my headunit wednesday and it should be here today but my accessories to hook it up aren't til april 1......
Guys dont have many pics of the work.. but here's my sorry attempt at a write up anyway..
This kind of assumes you have already replaced your stock radio and are using an aftermarket one. In our case its the Kenwood DNX7100 Nav unit. We had the stock, non-bose headunit before.
I started by pulling apart the dash.. not too different than the 04-06 instructions... What works good to get in between those panel pieces is this:
Plastic body filler spreader. Its thin enough to get in between the plastic pieces and not scratch anything up, but stiff enough still to pry the panels out.
So after getting to the radio, i pulled the main harness out of the aftermarket adaptor.... I took and cut all the speaker leads off of the factory side of the harness., you should wire them straight to the aftermarket radio (or in my case the 450/4 amp outputs.)
Then you need to find your switched power and constant power leads in the harness (red and yellow). These you need to leave connected to the harness, but tap them and run them to your aftermarket radio.
Same thing with the ground wire... it needs to stay connected to the main harness, but you did run a separate ground wire from inside the dash on the frame to your headunit right?
If you had installed the PAC adaptor for the steering wheel controls, you had already tapped them and installed the resistors.. and then those wires went to the PAC adaptor from the main harness. You need to cut those off from the main harness or your steering wheel controls will not work anymore.
Next is the fun part... There is a separate,12 wire harness that went from the stock radio to that info screen. Its only about 6 inches long, so that doesnt leave you alot of room to hide the stock radio.. I ended up extending those wires by about a foot. Because every wire in that harness is black, do them one by one so you dont mix them up.
Now you need to get the stock radio in there. Its a little bit tight, but it works.. We put it here at the bottom of the opening: (sorry this is the only pic i had of the center console opening)
It might be easier if you put in in facing forward, but upside down, so that the connections are on the top, so you dont have to stretch the other connections too far. Thats what we did.
Now hook up your main harness to the stock radio, then the little plug with 2 wires on it, (Not sure but i think thats what gives the computer in the stock radio all its info, like door open, mileage etc..) Then take your extended 12 wire harness, connect one side to the stock radio, the other up to the info screen. You dont need to reconnect the antenna to the stock radio as you wont be needing it. Push that stock radio as far back as you can.. Then reinstall the aftermarket radio and screens and ac box. If you do it right you will have just enough room to put the bottom panel with the AC controls back on. Make sure you set the time before you button everything back up.
Iirishsamurii said he built a case around the stock radio.. we didnt have to and so far (all week) worth of driving and hitting chicago potholes.. the radio didnt come on accidentally or display anything wierd as a result of any buttons being pressed. It shows time/temp, door/trunk open, and alerts low fuel still.
Also.. if you are a dumbass like me, and forget to connect something and turn the car on, only to find an airbag light or SES light... You can reset them. The Airbag reset procedure in the stickies works for the 07, and then do a google search for "nissan maxima check engine light reset" and you should find a procedure for that too. That one is a little tricky as it has to be timed exactly.. but it works. For some reason this car is a little b!@#$ if one little thing is not connected.
Hope this helps anyone looking to do this.. Even though 90 percent of the time that screen only shows time and temp... It feels good to have it back.. I always thought it was s#!++y that we had a blank screen there.
Feel free to ask in here or PM me with any questions...
-Gene
Guys dont have many pics of the work.. but here's my sorry attempt at a write up anyway..
This kind of assumes you have already replaced your stock radio and are using an aftermarket one. In our case its the Kenwood DNX7100 Nav unit. We had the stock, non-bose headunit before.
I started by pulling apart the dash.. not too different than the 04-06 instructions... What works good to get in between those panel pieces is this:
Plastic body filler spreader. Its thin enough to get in between the plastic pieces and not scratch anything up, but stiff enough still to pry the panels out.
So after getting to the radio, i pulled the main harness out of the aftermarket adaptor.... I took and cut all the speaker leads off of the factory side of the harness., you should wire them straight to the aftermarket radio (or in my case the 450/4 amp outputs.)
Then you need to find your switched power and constant power leads in the harness (red and yellow). These you need to leave connected to the harness, but tap them and run them to your aftermarket radio.
Same thing with the ground wire... it needs to stay connected to the main harness, but you did run a separate ground wire from inside the dash on the frame to your headunit right?
If you had installed the PAC adaptor for the steering wheel controls, you had already tapped them and installed the resistors.. and then those wires went to the PAC adaptor from the main harness. You need to cut those off from the main harness or your steering wheel controls will not work anymore.
Next is the fun part... There is a separate,12 wire harness that went from the stock radio to that info screen. Its only about 6 inches long, so that doesnt leave you alot of room to hide the stock radio.. I ended up extending those wires by about a foot. Because every wire in that harness is black, do them one by one so you dont mix them up.
Now you need to get the stock radio in there. Its a little bit tight, but it works.. We put it here at the bottom of the opening: (sorry this is the only pic i had of the center console opening)
It might be easier if you put in in facing forward, but upside down, so that the connections are on the top, so you dont have to stretch the other connections too far. Thats what we did.
Now hook up your main harness to the stock radio, then the little plug with 2 wires on it, (Not sure but i think thats what gives the computer in the stock radio all its info, like door open, mileage etc..) Then take your extended 12 wire harness, connect one side to the stock radio, the other up to the info screen. You dont need to reconnect the antenna to the stock radio as you wont be needing it. Push that stock radio as far back as you can.. Then reinstall the aftermarket radio and screens and ac box. If you do it right you will have just enough room to put the bottom panel with the AC controls back on. Make sure you set the time before you button everything back up.
Iirishsamurii said he built a case around the stock radio.. we didnt have to and so far (all week) worth of driving and hitting chicago potholes.. the radio didnt come on accidentally or display anything wierd as a result of any buttons being pressed. It shows time/temp, door/trunk open, and alerts low fuel still.
Also.. if you are a dumbass like me, and forget to connect something and turn the car on, only to find an airbag light or SES light... You can reset them. The Airbag reset procedure in the stickies works for the 07, and then do a google search for "nissan maxima check engine light reset" and you should find a procedure for that too. That one is a little tricky as it has to be timed exactly.. but it works. For some reason this car is a little b!@#$ if one little thing is not connected.
Hope this helps anyone looking to do this.. Even though 90 percent of the time that screen only shows time and temp... It feels good to have it back.. I always thought it was s#!++y that we had a blank screen there.
Feel free to ask in here or PM me with any questions...
-Gene
#10
I was going to do this but not being able to have access to the trip button led me to get the Metra NIRD-01. Also the Metra makes it extremely easy to wire up a Navi system if you get one, because it has all the wires right on the kit to make the Navi system work (parking brake wire, reverse wire, and VSS wire) no need to go fumbling around and trying to get to the wire by the parking brake, going to the trunk for the reverse wire, and looking where the VSS wire is at. But to each is their own =).
#11
I was going to do this but not being able to have access to the trip button led me to get the Metra NIRD-01. Also the Metra makes it extremely easy to wire up a Navi system if you get one, because it has all the wires right on the kit to make the Navi system work (parking brake wire, reverse wire, and VSS wire) no need to go fumbling around and trying to get to the wire by the parking brake, going to the trunk for the reverse wire, and looking where the VSS wire is at. But to each is their own =).
#12
For the Metra NIRD-01 you don't need bluetooth in order for it to work (My car didn't have factory bluetooth). The only other solution is the one you posted of hidding the head unit, if you want to keep the display. Although $180 is expensive, take into account that there will be no guessing which of the wires does what and you won't have to cut the factory wiring. Sometimes spending alittle extra can save you from a huge headache and spending more money later on.
#15
Ok, got in the headunit yesterday(3100dvd). Was looking today at the ipod adapter for it and realized it's just an 1/8 jack and usb going into the ipod connector. So I figure shouldn't you be able to run a normal 1/8 jack from ipod to aux input and basic ipod to usb cable to front usb port and get the same functionality as the $50 adapter? Please correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like in theory it should work. Thoughts?
#17
I don't understand it either, but here is a picture of the cable and as you can see, it has both usb and aux. I also believe you are supposed to have them plugged in at the same time. I could be wrong about that, but $40 for this cord seems ridiculous if its just mini jack and usb....
from sonicelectronix
from sonicelectronix
#18
I understand now. One end of the cable is iPod dock connector. The other end is received at the HU. 1/8" for audio and USB for data/charging. You can probably find a generic connector that does the same thing by splitting it out like that.
#21
Im going to try to explain this as well as I can,so hopefully it will make sense.
I relpaced a Bose Non-Nav with an aftermarket Eclipse.At first I lost the display screen and it looked kind of stupid.I wasnt about to spend the 180.00 for that Metra piece,because to be honest the screen has useless info.I wanted it mainly for the clock and temp,the rest is garbage.Now,Ive seen that thread about hiding the stock stereo inside the dash.This is a very good idea,only with my Ipod adaptor and the Sirius module it wouldnt fit.I was bummed...then I started looking at the stock unit.If you look at the Bose unit its basically 2 pieces.By taking out the appropriete screws it will come apart in 2 pieces.I had to make a cover for it because it was all exposed but after doing this I was able to hide it with ease.Its really nice to have that screen.The only thing that sucks is that you cant set the clock,so....you just unhook the battery at 11:58 and re-connect at 12:00,piece of cake.
Let me add this as well.You will have to extend the 12 wire harness.They are all black so just do one at a time.Also,Im not using the stock harness thats in the car.I use seperate amps for my speakers so I just tapped into the fuse panel for the battery leads and then found a nice ground.To be honest it was very easy and went together very nice.Im very happy with it and I saved 180.00.The only downside is that the stock unit is now dead.For me it was worth it becuase I wont be using it anymore.
I dont know if this helps with a non-bose because Im not familiar with it,but hopefully this info can help you a little.
I relpaced a Bose Non-Nav with an aftermarket Eclipse.At first I lost the display screen and it looked kind of stupid.I wasnt about to spend the 180.00 for that Metra piece,because to be honest the screen has useless info.I wanted it mainly for the clock and temp,the rest is garbage.Now,Ive seen that thread about hiding the stock stereo inside the dash.This is a very good idea,only with my Ipod adaptor and the Sirius module it wouldnt fit.I was bummed...then I started looking at the stock unit.If you look at the Bose unit its basically 2 pieces.By taking out the appropriete screws it will come apart in 2 pieces.I had to make a cover for it because it was all exposed but after doing this I was able to hide it with ease.Its really nice to have that screen.The only thing that sucks is that you cant set the clock,so....you just unhook the battery at 11:58 and re-connect at 12:00,piece of cake.
Let me add this as well.You will have to extend the 12 wire harness.They are all black so just do one at a time.Also,Im not using the stock harness thats in the car.I use seperate amps for my speakers so I just tapped into the fuse panel for the battery leads and then found a nice ground.To be honest it was very easy and went together very nice.Im very happy with it and I saved 180.00.The only downside is that the stock unit is now dead.For me it was worth it becuase I wont be using it anymore.
I dont know if this helps with a non-bose because Im not familiar with it,but hopefully this info can help you a little.
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