Dimming Lights?
#1
Dimming Lights?
Ok I just got my new box for my speakers. It fits both my 12" subs and has a plexiglass front...pretty nice Anyhow I have a 300 Watt Amp powering the speakers and everytime the bass hits, all of my lights dim (inside car and headlight/brake lights etc)....I'm sure this is normal, however I've just never really noticed it on anyone else's car that I see bumpin around....what can I do about this?
#2
Re: Dimming Lights?
Originally posted by Sarah99GXE
Ok I just got my new box for my speakers. It fits both my 12" subs and has a plexiglass front...pretty nice Anyhow I have a 300 Watt Amp powering the speakers and everytime the bass hits, all of my lights dim (inside car and headlight/brake lights etc)....I'm sure this is normal, however I've just never really noticed it on anyone else's car that I see bumpin around....what can I do about this?
Ok I just got my new box for my speakers. It fits both my 12" subs and has a plexiglass front...pretty nice Anyhow I have a 300 Watt Amp powering the speakers and everytime the bass hits, all of my lights dim (inside car and headlight/brake lights etc)....I'm sure this is normal, however I've just never really noticed it on anyone else's car that I see bumpin around....what can I do about this?
#3
Actually if your amp is only 300 watts, just go with an inexpensive 1\2 fard cap. Should be around $50 or so from like www.partsexpress.com
#4
Re: Dimming Lights?
Originally posted by Sarah99GXE
...everytime the bass hits, all of my lights dim (inside car and headlight/brake lights etc)....I'm sure this is normal, however I've just never really noticed it on anyone else's car that I see bumpin around....what can I do about this?
...everytime the bass hits, all of my lights dim (inside car and headlight/brake lights etc)....I'm sure this is normal, however I've just never really noticed it on anyone else's car that I see bumpin around....what can I do about this?
Well theoratically you can do this: change all bulbs to lower voltage, say 6V rated, and install a voltage regulator with a good line regulation capability. Regulator output is 6V. This way no matter the how 12V flutuates the bulbs always get 6V...
Probably nobody will do that, at least no me.
#5
Big cap
Oh yeas I forgot the big cap thing. Yes it'll work, unless there is a heavy and loooong bass that drain too much enery from the cap, the voltage will still drop...
Hi Multiplexor, did you receive my email with explanation? Hope your project goes smoothly.
Hi Multiplexor, did you receive my email with explanation? Hope your project goes smoothly.
#6
Re: Big cap
Originally posted by jiaxima96
Oh yeas I forgot the big cap thing. Yes it'll work, unless there is a heavy and loooong bass that drain too much enery from the cap, the voltage will still drop...
Hi Multiplexor, did you receive my email with explanation? Hope your project goes smoothly.
Oh yeas I forgot the big cap thing. Yes it'll work, unless there is a heavy and loooong bass that drain too much enery from the cap, the voltage will still drop...
Hi Multiplexor, did you receive my email with explanation? Hope your project goes smoothly.
yeah got the email i'm still confused on a couple little things.
But i'm going to do some. mainly how R2 and R5 work. since they come directly from the negative, start doing some resistance and then proceed to go on to the circuit. I guess it's just something i need to try...
Oh.. this circuit will work for 3v leds? or was it for 6volts?
#7
Maybe it's your battery? With my old battery, my lights would dim everytime the bass hit. Got a cap, and it helped some, but the lights would still dim sometimes. That was only at 300watts total power. Now I'm running a new Holley battery, and the lights never dim. Even when I pulled the cap out and ran the system, just to check. This is at 900watts. But your car is a '99, so I don't imagine the battery would be in too bad shape.
#8
Re: Re: Big cap
Originally posted by multiplexor
...mainly how R2 and R5 work. since they come directly from the negative...
this circuit will work for 3v leds? or was it for 6volts?
...mainly how R2 and R5 work. since they come directly from the negative...
this circuit will work for 3v leds? or was it for 6volts?
This circuit will work for both LEDs. The resistor in the LED path determines how bright LED will be, smaller value makes it brighter. You can start with 1 KOhm just to be safe, and go smaller, like 680 Ohm, 560 Ohm, 430 Ohm, etc. Brightness will saturate eventually and LED will burn out if resistor value is too small.
#9
Re: Dimming Lights?
Originally posted by Sarah99GXE
Ok I just got my new box for my speakers. It fits both my 12" subs and has a plexiglass front...pretty nice Anyhow I have a 300 Watt Amp powering the speakers and everytime the bass hits, all of my lights dim (inside car and headlight/brake lights etc)....I'm sure this is normal, however I've just never really noticed it on anyone else's car that I see bumpin around....what can I do about this?
Ok I just got my new box for my speakers. It fits both my 12" subs and has a plexiglass front...pretty nice Anyhow I have a 300 Watt Amp powering the speakers and everytime the bass hits, all of my lights dim (inside car and headlight/brake lights etc)....I'm sure this is normal, however I've just never really noticed it on anyone else's car that I see bumpin around....what can I do about this?
#10
Re: Re: Re: Big cap
Originally posted by jiaxima96
I don't have schematic with me now. Guess R2 and R5 are in parallel with the other two caps? If yes then R2 and R5 determine the timing of how fast or slow the LED fades.
This circuit will work for both LEDs. The resistor in the LED path determines how bright LED will be, smaller value makes it brighter. You can start with 1 KOhm just to be safe, and go smaller, like 680 Ohm, 560 Ohm, 430 Ohm, etc. Brightness will saturate eventually and LED will burn out if resistor value is too small.
I don't have schematic with me now. Guess R2 and R5 are in parallel with the other two caps? If yes then R2 and R5 determine the timing of how fast or slow the LED fades.
This circuit will work for both LEDs. The resistor in the LED path determines how bright LED will be, smaller value makes it brighter. You can start with 1 KOhm just to be safe, and go smaller, like 680 Ohm, 560 Ohm, 430 Ohm, etc. Brightness will saturate eventually and LED will burn out if resistor value is too small.
to down the voltage to 3 volts right away, i think i would have to use a 470 ohm resistor... and for the others i will try the values you mentionned.
this is a cool project to mess around with.
Thanks,
Frank
#11
Re: Re: Re: Re: Big cap
Originally posted by multiplexor
...how a resistor in parallel with the cap would affect the fade? to modify the fade time dynamically i could always place a variable resistor couldn't i?
...how a resistor in parallel with the cap would affect the fade? to modify the fade time dynamically i could always place a variable resistor couldn't i?
sure you can use a variable resistor to set different fading speed.
#12
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Big cap
Originally posted by jiaxima96
Resistor in parallel with cap. When the "control signal" charges the C in parallel with R through the upper doide and then the control signal goes down to 0V, the upper diode is reverse biased (no current flows through it so diode is a temperory open circuit now). C will be discharged through the only path --- the parallel R. This parallel R and C is also connected to the MOS's "gate"(MOS's control terminal) and "source" (which is grounded). A MOS transistor has a threshold voltage that could be 1V to a few volts. When voltage on C is much higher than MOS's threshold voltage the MOS is turned on, and when much lower MOS is turned off. In the transition, the voltage on C is from slightly higher to slightly lower than threshold voltage, MOS will act like a variable resistor that fades the LED. So the slower R and C discharge, the slower LED fades......
sure you can use a variable resistor to set different fading speed.
Resistor in parallel with cap. When the "control signal" charges the C in parallel with R through the upper doide and then the control signal goes down to 0V, the upper diode is reverse biased (no current flows through it so diode is a temperory open circuit now). C will be discharged through the only path --- the parallel R. This parallel R and C is also connected to the MOS's "gate"(MOS's control terminal) and "source" (which is grounded). A MOS transistor has a threshold voltage that could be 1V to a few volts. When voltage on C is much higher than MOS's threshold voltage the MOS is turned on, and when much lower MOS is turned off. In the transition, the voltage on C is from slightly higher to slightly lower than threshold voltage, MOS will act like a variable resistor that fades the LED. So the slower R and C discharge, the slower LED fades......
sure you can use a variable resistor to set different fading speed.
I sent you an email with some pics of what i believe are mos transitors from my technics amp i took apart.
Thanks,
Frank
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