If you can make it fit putting them at angles is fine. It's all about the mesurments like you said. You don't wanna sacrafice a little here and a little there cuz it will turn out to be alot here. But with a more time on the plans the install can be relitivly simple.

 

if i were to angle them like [-v-v-] on my rear deck, what would be the ideal angle?

 

I personally don't like going more than 90, but a 45 could be done if you see no other choice.

 

One of the other things you may want to consider if your gonna redue the deck would be an ap setup.

 

whats that? sorry but i dont know. i need to have it explained to me in simple terms.. the one thing i know is the box i make needs to be sealed. my subs dont perform well in a ported box.

 

here ya go http://www.elitecaraudio.com/home/ht...le.php?sid=105

He did a great job on it.

 

intresting, very good write up. however, i dont think my subs are a good candidate. im still depating what the hell imma do with these things. if i can fit all four flat that would be great. if not mabye i should just keep things simple and go with just 3. i have to start laying them out and measuring.. would there be any other benfits from having the subs angled at one another on a 45 other than just saving some deck space?

 

No, and the closer you put them toward facing each other it can start to have a negative effect. Take some measurements and then begin to look at options. At this point it's alot of guessing.

 

looks like i'll be able to fit all four. i just made 4 templates and was arranging them on the rear deck cover since its laying in here too. i just have to double check the distance in between the trunk hinges underneath.. imma do that in a few min.. question, what the bars under there for anyway? to help open the trunk? if i take them off will my trunk lid still be able to stay up when its fully open? also, what is the lightest wood i can use for this and where can i find it? im gonna use regular mdf for the deck, but id like to use something lighter if possible for the box.. i already have the box pictured in my head for the best way to make it. pretty simple..(so far) i can get the total lenght of the box down to 39.5".
just went out and took a quick meansurement. in between the brackets that are holding those bars is 40.5".. looks like itll fit if i wanna do it. id give anything for a garage. i may wanna wait for it to warm up a bit before i do this.

 

The bars help asist in the rasing up of the trunk lid and keeping it up. Other wise it falls down. This of course is not kewl. When you rebuild the deck you either have to make a new system simlar to this or just use a stick to hold it up. Rather than that the most popular thing has become the use of acuaters.

Wood to use, 3/4 ultra light mdf, special order at anyplace that sells mdf. But you only want to use it for the sides and bottom. Use regular for the acual top where the subs are mounted. Another choice is the encorpation of fiberglass.

 

The bars help asist in the rasing up of the trunk lid and keeping it up. Other wise it falls down. This of course is not kewl. Gas struts found at Pep Boys, Trak Auto, or any other auto parts store also work. The width right behind the rear seat is 40.5", but under the window it is 38.0".
You will most likely want to use some fiberglass or other composite for a significant portion of this box. There are a lot of little curves that otherwise would be difficult to match up and seal. Secureing the box to the deck is also a chore you need to start thinking about. If I prop the box on something in the trunk and set the baffle on top of the deck, I can reach in the box and find the numerous screw holes. THe screw mount from within the box, go though the frame, and into the baffle. So the frame of the deck is basically sandwiched between the box and baffle. The ultra light MDF can also be used as a core material with fiberglass and epoxy resin. As can any type of wood including balsa. I mean, if the army builds bridges with balsa and composites, we can certainly use it for sub boxes.
Also, I don't know waht speakers you have but any sub with low Qts, below 0.5, will work in aperiodic enclosure. But tuning it can take time, and patience. It's not a drop in setup.

 

ill be using pheonix gold xmax's..

 

just an update, but ive been working on building a new floor for my trunk.. its coming along, and i will still be able to get to my spare. ill take some pics when i get a lil bit more along in the project in case anyone is curious..

 

I just finished building mine this weekend past. It's about 3-1/2 inches, and houses both of my amps in it. I just have to finish carpeting a couple of peices, and put some finishing touches here and there. Should be done with it this weekend (weather permitting). If I can get some pics, I'll try and let ya know, and maybe I'll be able to post a couple here on the forum....Later,,,,D-MAN

 

sounds good.. any pics you take id love to see.. mabye itll give me some ideas.. basically what i did was take two peices of pressure treated decking planks, and ran them down both sides of the trunk. i used sealing tape on the edges so theres no metal to wood contact(to avoid and sweaks). i installed them in a way so that when the top board is installed, the bottom of the wood will sit almost flush with the hump in the back of the trunk by the backseat. i also built up layers of the sealing tape as a spacer on the passanger side to keep the two peices as level as possible. the two wood beams are screwed into the trunk floor and dont move at all now. im gonna use 3/4 plywood for the new floor. once its installed ill be filling in all the empty space underneath with expanding foam. i would have used some of the other materials mentioned above, but given the depth of the cavity is so inconsistant from place to place, its almost impossible to use insulation board because of the wide variation (spelling?). im opting to use the foam instead. ill have an access panel cut out over my spare set on a hinge so i can still use it. i have some nice detail ideas in my head also, hopefully everything will work out nice. it would be so much easier if i had a garage so i can work inside, but i can only work with what i got.. by this weekend the floor should be almost done.

 

Man,,,sounds alot like what I have right now, except for the foam. Shucks, if you throw a propeller on the back bumper, you'd have a boat,,,not a car...hehehe I mean with all the expanding foam you have used, your car should float with no problem...j/k.

Anyways, I did similar to what you're doing. I used 1X4 boards for the runners, and used 3/8 plywood for the cover. It's not as thick as 3/4, and not nearly as heavy. Whole thing probably weighs about 10 lbs at the most. An idea you may use is what I did to fit it. I pulled the carpet out of the trunk and used that as a template on the plywood,,,figured out where I needed to cut out for the tire door,,,and for my speaker box that sits against the wheel well on the passenger side of the trunk. I put my 2 amps on either side of the false floor, one on the right side,,,,the other on the left. Gonna detail them with some neon, and other small stuff. I will try to get some pics this weekend for you to check it out. Good Luck with yours, and any input I can give you is here for the asking, and free of charge...hehe. Just let me know. Hope this helps.,,,,D-MAN

 

You could use some of the 2-3 inch thick material and just sand down the areas that need to be thinner. Or use a compressable foam, like carpet padding or mattress padding.

 

basically thats the exact thing i did. i had an old floor i made from using the carpet as a template, but it was thin wood and just layed in there.. i used my old one as a template for the new one and just made some improvements on the cuts. the door for the spare is a half circle on the new one. i just finised cutting the plywood out, test fitted it and marked off where i wanna trim a lil more. around the edges of the wood im gonna use gray caulk to fill it into the side panels so theres kind of a gasket between them so they cant squeak. also, in between the beams and the plywood im gonna use sealing tape so theres no wood to wood contact so that cant squeak either.. should be all in by tomorrow

 

grrrr... aggrivating day today.. i had my basic floor installed and i spent the day trying to make a nice carpeted well for my spare.. tried it four different ways and still didnt come out how i wanted it to.. i had to take it all out but i finally got a nice method to achieve the look i want. unfortunately i ran out of carpet so ill be making another trip to get a few more rolls. it looks like the next attempt will be the last. mabye im driving myself a lil to crazy over something you cant even see but its just the piont. if i know its sloppy underneath it'll just eat away at me. its not gonna be perfect, but itll be as close to it as i can get. one thing that sucks is i have to do it in two peices so theres gonna be seams.. oh well.. ill live with it..

 

Dude, why bother carpeting the actual spare well? There is going to be a dirty spare in there right? So don't worry about the seam, it'll be disguised by the dirt.

 

haha.. too late!! i just took it all out.. sorry but i cant just forget about it.. i want this thing to be impressive and itll just eat away at me if i dont do my best. ill make sure i clean my spare.. hehe
i have to do the well in two peices.. the wood floor had to be done in two peices so i could actually fit it into the trunk. the seam of the wood is directly in the middle of the well.(from one quarter panel to the other) so when i carpet it, i have to do it in two peices. when i say theres gonna be a seam, its more like theres gonna be a peice of carpet overlapping another. its kinda hard to really describe what im doin here... when the carpet is installed, its only going to be attached at the top of the wood, and then at the bottom edge of the well ... so really, there wont be anything behind it.. im not following the walls if the huge well thats in the car, im trying to make my own and keep it as small as possible. the carpet is serving two purposes. one is cosmetic, and the other is to serve as a wall to prevent the expanding foam ill use from entering the newly shaped well. once i shoot the foam behind it, i can use my hands inside the well to kinda guide the shape it will harder in.. mold it like.. and then "in theory" when it hardens itll give a good backing for the carpet and fill in all the cavity behind.. hope this kinda explains it a lil better.. your probably shaking your head goin this kid is a moron but itll come out nice trust me.. ill take pics..

 

No, I don't think you are a moron. But you have done a few unnecessary things. To eliminate the view of the seam in the carpet trace the pattern of the wood onto a piece of carpet, cut it, and then just lay it on top of the already carpeted wood in the car. Basically the same as the way the factory trunk was covered. If you are afraid of it moving around you can adhere some velcro in a few spots to hold it in place. And you forgot to mention that the carpet is another layer of damping material.

 

i know what your saying, but its kinda hard for me to explain this.. for what im doin rite now, there insnt anything to trace. the shape doesnt exist yet. im using the carpet to help form it, and then fill the empty cavity with expanding foam. i got some of it done, but i cant stand the fact i dont have a garage.. im not doin this outside in the cold and i only have about an hour and a half when i get home from work before it gets dark.. its not even worth doin during the week. ill get alot more done this weekend.