Ok one more question b4 my system is done...CMPx-2's or ID MAX??
02-28-2002, 11:33 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 883
Ok one more question b4 my system is done...CMPx-2's or ID MAX??
OK..this is my last post/thread for my new stereo I promise..Please help me out..ok so I orded the Crystal CMPx-2's 12 inchers but the place I ordered them from is all out of stock. SO..the guy offered me the ID Max's for the same price. I ordered 2 of them if that helps. I don't know which one's to get now? I know both are excellent SQ/SPL woofers. I know more about the Crystals..SHould I just pay more and get the Crystals elsewhere or go with the ID MAx's? I am seriously beginning to hate car audio.. I see orge dave knows a thing or 2 about these subs.. I see his posts all over SOunddomain about them...It's either pay $315 a piece for the ID MAX's or $375 each for the crystals else where. Also if I do get the ID max's should I get the 2ohm ones? and these are the ones that RMS @ 1000 watts a piece..ok no more typing you guys are probably getting ****ed and annoyed..thanks for your help..you are doing the right thing..don't worry 
02-28-2002, 01:58 PM
#3
i love my idmax.
as for what you should get ohms wise, depends on your amp. you'll probably want dual4's, so you can parallel each sub (if you have 2) to become 2ohms, and then parallel those 2 (overall) to 1ohm. (usually max output on class D's .. at least the decent ones
)
(yes there are the 2ohm exceptions .. earthquake n such.. but thats ok, DEI 1100D & stuff are much more affordable.)
if yer going 1 amp per sub.. say a dei 1100D .. then you'd want D2's to get max output at 1ohm per sub.
Id use the JBL 1200.1's for examples, since its found all over ebay for 279, and is a great value, but the deal with it putting out 1200+ watts at both 1 & 2 ohm would just serve to confuse my example.
as for what you should get ohms wise, depends on your amp. you'll probably want dual4's, so you can parallel each sub (if you have 2) to become 2ohms, and then parallel those 2 (overall) to 1ohm. (usually max output on class D's .. at least the decent ones
)(yes there are the 2ohm exceptions .. earthquake n such.. but thats ok, DEI 1100D & stuff are much more affordable.)
if yer going 1 amp per sub.. say a dei 1100D .. then you'd want D2's to get max output at 1ohm per sub.
Id use the JBL 1200.1's for examples, since its found all over ebay for 279, and is a great value, but the deal with it putting out 1200+ watts at both 1 & 2 ohm would just serve to confuse my example.
02-28-2002, 08:16 PM
#4
Originally posted by OgreDave
i love my idmax.
as for what you should get ohms wise, depends on your amp. you'll probably want dual4's, so you can parallel each sub (if you have 2) to become 2ohms, and then parallel those 2 (overall) to 1ohm. (usually max output on class D's .. at least the decent ones)
(yes there are the 2ohm exceptions .. earthquake n such.. but thats ok, DEI 1100D & stuff are much more affordable.)
if yer going 1 amp per sub.. say a dei 1100D .. then you'd want D2's to get max output at 1ohm per sub.
Id use the JBL 1200.1's for examples, since its found all over ebay for 279, and is a great value, but the deal with it putting out 1200+ watts at both 1 & 2 ohm would just serve to confuse my example.
i love my idmax.
as for what you should get ohms wise, depends on your amp. you'll probably want dual4's, so you can parallel each sub (if you have 2) to become 2ohms, and then parallel those 2 (overall) to 1ohm. (usually max output on class D's .. at least the decent ones
)(yes there are the 2ohm exceptions .. earthquake n such.. but thats ok, DEI 1100D & stuff are much more affordable.)
if yer going 1 amp per sub.. say a dei 1100D .. then you'd want D2's to get max output at 1ohm per sub.
Id use the JBL 1200.1's for examples, since its found all over ebay for 279, and is a great value, but the deal with it putting out 1200+ watts at both 1 & 2 ohm would just serve to confuse my example.
I'm possibly looking for an amp to give a lot of power to a kicker l7 or maybe an idmax - 12". Trying to stay affordable here... would you go with RF 1000watt or the JBL 1200?
Also - i'm looking to fire one 12" sub through the ski hole. I'm looking for crisp, tight, bass more than real loud and boomy (I have 2 JL 12w6's right now)... however I would still like to be able to make it pretty loud to show off
. Would you say kicker l7 or idmax. Or possibly something else?I'm interested in your opinions on this...
TIA!
Chris
02-28-2002, 08:52 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 883
ok...why do you guys think the ID Max's are better.?.do you have any solid evidence why I should get them? One thing that I like is that they are 30lbs each and not 44lbs like the crystals.. Crystals are very heavy. I will be using an XS Autotek stealth 1500x1 mono block amp for these subs...I think these subs are pretty much the same aren't they..they have pretty much equal value..Everyone thinks both is each a good sub and one is not better then the other..People voted on which sub was better in sounddomain..seemed pretty even to me..I just want some hard evidence why one sub is better then the other then I will go from there..Ok, anyway thanks again to everyone who has helped me.
02-28-2002, 09:05 PM
#6
Originally posted by CKNY
I'm possibly looking for an amp to give a lot of power to a kicker l7 or maybe an idmax - 12". Trying to stay affordable here... would you go with RF 1000watt or the JBL 1200?
Also - i'm looking to fire one 12" sub through the ski hole. I'm looking for crisp, tight, bass more than real loud and boomy (I have 2 JL 12w6's right now)... however I would still like to be able to make it pretty loud to show off . Would you say kicker l7 or idmax. Or possibly something else?
I'm possibly looking for an amp to give a lot of power to a kicker l7 or maybe an idmax - 12". Trying to stay affordable here... would you go with RF 1000watt or the JBL 1200?
Also - i'm looking to fire one 12" sub through the ski hole. I'm looking for crisp, tight, bass more than real loud and boomy (I have 2 JL 12w6's right now)... however I would still like to be able to make it pretty loud to show off
. Would you say kicker l7 or idmax. Or possibly something else?It definitely wont be as loud as too 12w6's, cuz I've heard a pair of 12w3's hit 150s .. thats way too much for my daily driver anyways. My IDMax w/1100watts has already torn my car apart, everything rattles.
(Need to dampen, been busy, my backseat is STILL out and in my kitchen)If you really want clean, tight bass, and not like boomy, but accurate, get the IDMax, you won't regret it.
On the other hand, the L7 is also a great choice. While its not as tight as the IDMax, it sounds good, really. But its true potential can be shown when you port & tune it. I think it can take on your 2 w6's when ported right. Thats more of a show off sub compared to the IDMax.
As for amps, I prefer class D's for subs because they are more efficient. Both subs mentioned can take 1kw .. so I'd go for a JBL 1200.1 off ebay from Scala1 aka Ikes Electronics. Very good dealer/seller, handles returns, exchanges, warranties, etc with speed. I went with a DEI 1100D cuz i got it super cheap. Its one of the more efficient class D's according to other tests in some magazine, I dunno. My lights don't blink tho.
The only problem with getting a JBL 1200.1 is if you want to port the L7 or the IDMax.. IIRC, it doesn't have a subsonic filter. I'd recommend the DEI 1100D as well, but it's usually around 300 or a lil more. (But it does have the subsonic filter, and phone cord remote thing)
There are lots of other choices for class D sub amps, but I prefer the ones that will go 1ohm stable, which is why I would stay away from the RF class D. (last i remember its max output was at 2ohm) .. Same with the Earthquake (2kw @ 2ohm) and most MTX amps.
Hope i made sense and helped a lil.
BTW, the Adire Brahma looks to be the next super-sub. Patent pending technology that isnt underhung or overhung .. Canuck should be able to help you out more with the details on that, as he was/is affiliated with AmpmanAudio & Adire.
Can you say 30 day satisfaction guarenteed on all AmpmanAudio products?
03-01-2002, 06:29 AM
#7
Originally posted by OgreDave
Honestly, my IDMax gets pretty loud, but it doesn't get like super boomy outside the car. If anything, you mostly hear rattles when it hits really hard. Plus I have a supercharger (v1) and a greddy catback.. so you can already imagine how loud my engine is. As for my setup, it gets damn loud inside, but just a lil bit outside. I don't blast it with the rear windows open, that might be part of it. It gets loud nuff to where it starts to shake your voice when you try to talk. Also moves your hair, etc etc. It does hit very low and very quick/punchy tho. If you go sealed, you can forget that subsonic filter stuff too.
It definitely wont be as loud as too 12w6's, cuz I've heard a pair of 12w3's hit 150s .. thats way too much for my daily driver anyways. My IDMax w/1100watts has already torn my car apart, everything rattles. (Need to dampen, been busy, my backseat is STILL out and in my kitchen)
If you really want clean, tight bass, and not like boomy, but accurate, get the IDMax, you won't regret it.
On the other hand, the L7 is also a great choice. While its not as tight as the IDMax, it sounds good, really. But its true potential can be shown when you port & tune it. I think it can take on your 2 w6's when ported right. Thats more of a show off sub compared to the IDMax.
As for amps, I prefer class D's for subs because they are more efficient. Both subs mentioned can take 1kw .. so I'd go for a JBL 1200.1 off ebay from Scala1 aka Ikes Electronics. Very good dealer/seller, handles returns, exchanges, warranties, etc with speed. I went with a DEI 1100D cuz i got it super cheap. Its one of the more efficient class D's according to other tests in some magazine, I dunno. My lights don't blink tho.
The only problem with getting a JBL 1200.1 is if you want to port the L7 or the IDMax.. IIRC, it doesn't have a subsonic filter. I'd recommend the DEI 1100D as well, but it's usually around 300 or a lil more. (But it does have the subsonic filter, and phone cord remote thing)
There are lots of other choices for class D sub amps, but I prefer the ones that will go 1ohm stable, which is why I would stay away from the RF class D. (last i remember its max output was at 2ohm) .. Same with the Earthquake (2kw @ 2ohm) and most MTX amps.
Hope i made sense and helped a lil.
BTW, the Adire Brahma looks to be the next super-sub. Patent pending technology that isnt underhung or overhung .. Canuck should be able to help you out more with the details on that, as he was/is affiliated with AmpmanAudio & Adire.
Can you say 30 day satisfaction guarenteed on all AmpmanAudio products?
Honestly, my IDMax gets pretty loud, but it doesn't get like super boomy outside the car. If anything, you mostly hear rattles when it hits really hard. Plus I have a supercharger (v1) and a greddy catback.. so you can already imagine how loud my engine is. As for my setup, it gets damn loud inside, but just a lil bit outside. I don't blast it with the rear windows open, that might be part of it. It gets loud nuff to where it starts to shake your voice when you try to talk. Also moves your hair, etc etc. It does hit very low and very quick/punchy tho. If you go sealed, you can forget that subsonic filter stuff too.
It definitely wont be as loud as too 12w6's, cuz I've heard a pair of 12w3's hit 150s .. thats way too much for my daily driver anyways. My IDMax w/1100watts has already torn my car apart, everything rattles.
(Need to dampen, been busy, my backseat is STILL out and in my kitchen)If you really want clean, tight bass, and not like boomy, but accurate, get the IDMax, you won't regret it.
On the other hand, the L7 is also a great choice. While its not as tight as the IDMax, it sounds good, really. But its true potential can be shown when you port & tune it. I think it can take on your 2 w6's when ported right. Thats more of a show off sub compared to the IDMax.
As for amps, I prefer class D's for subs because they are more efficient. Both subs mentioned can take 1kw .. so I'd go for a JBL 1200.1 off ebay from Scala1 aka Ikes Electronics. Very good dealer/seller, handles returns, exchanges, warranties, etc with speed. I went with a DEI 1100D cuz i got it super cheap. Its one of the more efficient class D's according to other tests in some magazine, I dunno. My lights don't blink tho.
The only problem with getting a JBL 1200.1 is if you want to port the L7 or the IDMax.. IIRC, it doesn't have a subsonic filter. I'd recommend the DEI 1100D as well, but it's usually around 300 or a lil more. (But it does have the subsonic filter, and phone cord remote thing)
There are lots of other choices for class D sub amps, but I prefer the ones that will go 1ohm stable, which is why I would stay away from the RF class D. (last i remember its max output was at 2ohm) .. Same with the Earthquake (2kw @ 2ohm) and most MTX amps.
Hope i made sense and helped a lil.
BTW, the Adire Brahma looks to be the next super-sub. Patent pending technology that isnt underhung or overhung .. Canuck should be able to help you out more with the details on that, as he was/is affiliated with AmpmanAudio & Adire.
Can you say 30 day satisfaction guarenteed on all AmpmanAudio products?
Thanks again for the great info!!
Chris
03-01-2002, 11:17 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 883
Originally posted by OgreDave
Honestly, my IDMax gets pretty loud, but it doesn't get like super boomy outside the car. If anything, you mostly hear rattles when it hits really hard. Plus I have a supercharger (v1) and a greddy catback.. so you can already imagine how loud my engine is. As for my setup, it gets damn loud inside, but just a lil bit outside. I don't blast it with the rear windows open, that might be part of it. It gets loud nuff to where it starts to shake your voice when you try to talk. Also moves your hair, etc etc. It does hit very low and very quick/punchy tho. If you go sealed, you can forget that subsonic filter stuff too.
It definitely wont be as loud as too 12w6's, cuz I've heard a pair of 12w3's hit 150s .. thats way too much for my daily driver anyways. My IDMax w/1100watts has already torn my car apart, everything rattles. (Need to dampen, been busy, my backseat is STILL out and in my kitchen)
If you really want clean, tight bass, and not like boomy, but accurate, get the IDMax, you won't regret it.
On the other hand, the L7 is also a great choice. While its not as tight as the IDMax, it sounds good, really. But its true potential can be shown when you port & tune it. I think it can take on your 2 w6's when ported right. Thats more of a show off sub compared to the IDMax.
As for amps, I prefer class D's for subs because they are more efficient. Both subs mentioned can take 1kw .. so I'd go for a JBL 1200.1 off ebay from Scala1 aka Ikes Electronics. Very good dealer/seller, handles returns, exchanges, warranties, etc with speed. I went with a DEI 1100D cuz i got it super cheap. Its one of the more efficient class D's according to other tests in some magazine, I dunno. My lights don't blink tho.
The only problem with getting a JBL 1200.1 is if you want to port the L7 or the IDMax.. IIRC, it doesn't have a subsonic filter. I'd recommend the DEI 1100D as well, but it's usually around 300 or a lil more. (But it does have the subsonic filter, and phone cord remote thing)
There are lots of other choices for class D sub amps, but I prefer the ones that will go 1ohm stable, which is why I would stay away from the RF class D. (last i remember its max output was at 2ohm) .. Same with the Earthquake (2kw @ 2ohm) and most MTX amps.
Hope i made sense and helped a lil.
BTW, the Adire Brahma looks to be the next super-sub. Patent pending technology that isnt underhung or overhung .. Canuck should be able to help you out more with the details on that, as he was/is affiliated with AmpmanAudio & Adire.
Can you say 30 day satisfaction guarenteed on all AmpmanAudio products?
Honestly, my IDMax gets pretty loud, but it doesn't get like super boomy outside the car. If anything, you mostly hear rattles when it hits really hard. Plus I have a supercharger (v1) and a greddy catback.. so you can already imagine how loud my engine is. As for my setup, it gets damn loud inside, but just a lil bit outside. I don't blast it with the rear windows open, that might be part of it. It gets loud nuff to where it starts to shake your voice when you try to talk. Also moves your hair, etc etc. It does hit very low and very quick/punchy tho. If you go sealed, you can forget that subsonic filter stuff too.
It definitely wont be as loud as too 12w6's, cuz I've heard a pair of 12w3's hit 150s .. thats way too much for my daily driver anyways. My IDMax w/1100watts has already torn my car apart, everything rattles.
(Need to dampen, been busy, my backseat is STILL out and in my kitchen)If you really want clean, tight bass, and not like boomy, but accurate, get the IDMax, you won't regret it.
On the other hand, the L7 is also a great choice. While its not as tight as the IDMax, it sounds good, really. But its true potential can be shown when you port & tune it. I think it can take on your 2 w6's when ported right. Thats more of a show off sub compared to the IDMax.
As for amps, I prefer class D's for subs because they are more efficient. Both subs mentioned can take 1kw .. so I'd go for a JBL 1200.1 off ebay from Scala1 aka Ikes Electronics. Very good dealer/seller, handles returns, exchanges, warranties, etc with speed. I went with a DEI 1100D cuz i got it super cheap. Its one of the more efficient class D's according to other tests in some magazine, I dunno. My lights don't blink tho.
The only problem with getting a JBL 1200.1 is if you want to port the L7 or the IDMax.. IIRC, it doesn't have a subsonic filter. I'd recommend the DEI 1100D as well, but it's usually around 300 or a lil more. (But it does have the subsonic filter, and phone cord remote thing)
There are lots of other choices for class D sub amps, but I prefer the ones that will go 1ohm stable, which is why I would stay away from the RF class D. (last i remember its max output was at 2ohm) .. Same with the Earthquake (2kw @ 2ohm) and most MTX amps.
Hope i made sense and helped a lil.
BTW, the Adire Brahma looks to be the next super-sub. Patent pending technology that isnt underhung or overhung .. Canuck should be able to help you out more with the details on that, as he was/is affiliated with AmpmanAudio & Adire.
Can you say 30 day satisfaction guarenteed on all AmpmanAudio products?
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