Amp on Trunk
Amp on Trunk
i want to screw my amp onto the trunk so when u open the trunk u can see the amp and have neons around it. i just wantes=d to know if anyone knows the thickness of the trunk so i don't drill through it. Also if someone has done this and can let me know how they did it, or if anyone has another suggestion on a good place to put it.
Re: Amp on Trunk
Originally posted by Type97GXE
i want to screw my amp onto the trunk so when u open the trunk u can see the amp and have neons around it. i just wantes=d to know if anyone knows the thickness of the trunk so i don't drill through it. Also if someone has done this and can let me know how they did it, or if anyone has another suggestion on a good place to put it.
i want to screw my amp onto the trunk so when u open the trunk u can see the amp and have neons around it. i just wantes=d to know if anyone knows the thickness of the trunk so i don't drill through it. Also if someone has done this and can let me know how they did it, or if anyone has another suggestion on a good place to put it.
My only concern is that most amps function poorly in a flat, especially upside down position due to heat dissipation. Sounds like a kewl idea, but make sure your amp is ok for that type of install.
Re: Re: Amp on Trunk
Originally posted by Sting_NC_'01Max
While I haven't done this, I would recommend using a mounting board that would secure to the trunk, so that you can provide a better installation surface and hide wires.
My only concern is that most amps function poorly in a flat, especially upside down position due to heat dissipation. Sounds like a kewl idea, but make sure your amp is ok for that type of install.
While I haven't done this, I would recommend using a mounting board that would secure to the trunk, so that you can provide a better installation surface and hide wires.
My only concern is that most amps function poorly in a flat, especially upside down position due to heat dissipation. Sounds like a kewl idea, but make sure your amp is ok for that type of install.
Re: Re: Re: Amp on Trunk
Originally posted by JeepRage
just asking, but how does an amp know which way its mounted?? i can see a CD changer not working too well, but curious how the amp is effected.
just asking, but how does an amp know which way its mounted?? i can see a CD changer not working too well, but curious how the amp is effected.
However, if you mount it upside down, all of the heat from the unit will "rise" back into the unit, instead of away from the electronics.
Good question!
not hard at all actually...take 1/2" mdf and cut it to what you want.."template to trunk lid" secure it to the "rails not the sheet metal" WELL...it's going to have some weight...depending on amps, heat may be an issue but fans will always work..now, mount the amps however you want.."design" then I suggest running 8ga. from amp to D block.that way you can wire through the trunklid "arms" for stealth wiring..4ga is a motha...then make another "cover" out of 3/8 or 1/4 if not going to get damaged and do a "cutout" of the amps and whatever you mount on the decklid and mount the board "flush" with the equipment...if heat is an issue, wire 2 small 2" or smaller fans 1 on each end or even 2 on each end giving a push pull "tunnel" effect. they make a "squirrel type" fan that is very good but like 35 each but move some air...
I have done this several times really, more with processors and whatnot but still can be done..just make sure you make a good loop for your wires so they don't get pinched and end up shorting out...snake power and ground through 1 rail and your rca's and speaker wire through other..depending on your rca's you may have to cut the cable and resolder the ends if they won't go through the hinges but dunno your situation...
the hinge thing isn't a must, I just think it looks better myself then if you have a wall in the back for your subs,you can notch where the hinges go and stealth the wiring behind thae wall..but you could use loom too and it would be easier...I just think it is tacky myself....
good luck and if you need help along the way be glad to help.....
I have done this several times really, more with processors and whatnot but still can be done..just make sure you make a good loop for your wires so they don't get pinched and end up shorting out...snake power and ground through 1 rail and your rca's and speaker wire through other..depending on your rca's you may have to cut the cable and resolder the ends if they won't go through the hinges but dunno your situation...
the hinge thing isn't a must, I just think it looks better myself then if you have a wall in the back for your subs,you can notch where the hinges go and stealth the wiring behind thae wall..but you could use loom too and it would be easier...I just think it is tacky myself....
good luck and if you need help along the way be glad to help.....
Originally posted by slickonetoo
not hard at all actually...take 1/2" mdf and cut it to what you want.."template to trunk lid" secure it to the "rails not the sheet metal" WELL...it's going to have some weight...depending on amps, heat may be an issue but fans will always work..now, mount the amps however you want.."design" then I suggest running 8ga. from amp to D block.that way you can wire through the trunklid "arms" for stealth wiring..4ga is a motha...then make another "cover" out of 3/8 or 1/4 if not going to get damaged and do a "cutout" of the amps and whatever you mount on the decklid and mount the board "flush" with the equipment...if heat is an issue, wire 2 small 2" or smaller fans 1 on each end or even 2 on each end giving a push pull "tunnel" effect. they make a "squirrel type" fan that is very good but like 35 each but move some air...
I have done this several times really, more with processors and whatnot but still can be done..just make sure you make a good loop for your wires so they don't get pinched and end up shorting out...snake power and ground through 1 rail and your rca's and speaker wire through other..depending on your rca's you may have to cut the cable and resolder the ends if they won't go through the hinges but dunno your situation...
the hinge thing isn't a must, I just think it looks better myself then if you have a wall in the back for your subs,you can notch where the hinges go and stealth the wiring behind thae wall..but you could use loom too and it would be easier...I just think it is tacky myself....
good luck and if you need help along the way be glad to help.....
not hard at all actually...take 1/2" mdf and cut it to what you want.."template to trunk lid" secure it to the "rails not the sheet metal" WELL...it's going to have some weight...depending on amps, heat may be an issue but fans will always work..now, mount the amps however you want.."design" then I suggest running 8ga. from amp to D block.that way you can wire through the trunklid "arms" for stealth wiring..4ga is a motha...then make another "cover" out of 3/8 or 1/4 if not going to get damaged and do a "cutout" of the amps and whatever you mount on the decklid and mount the board "flush" with the equipment...if heat is an issue, wire 2 small 2" or smaller fans 1 on each end or even 2 on each end giving a push pull "tunnel" effect. they make a "squirrel type" fan that is very good but like 35 each but move some air...
I have done this several times really, more with processors and whatnot but still can be done..just make sure you make a good loop for your wires so they don't get pinched and end up shorting out...snake power and ground through 1 rail and your rca's and speaker wire through other..depending on your rca's you may have to cut the cable and resolder the ends if they won't go through the hinges but dunno your situation...
the hinge thing isn't a must, I just think it looks better myself then if you have a wall in the back for your subs,you can notch where the hinges go and stealth the wiring behind thae wall..but you could use loom too and it would be easier...I just think it is tacky myself....
good luck and if you need help along the way be glad to help.....
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