just answered my own question with this link
http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html

 

Can someone please tell me wat oil to use. i have an 02 max GLE with 61K on it, i dont know what oils been in it because i just bought it used about 2 months ago and i think its time to change the oil, what is the best oil to use from now on considering i do mostly highway driving about 50 miles per day and some hard driving. please let me know asap. thanks

 

I dont understand this, im a noob, wat is a dyno blend? basically i have a 02 max wit 61K and have NO CLUE wat oils were used cuz i jus bought it used 2 months ago. what is the BEST oil to use from now on if im commuting daily about 50 miles or so per day mostly highway and some hard driving. Thank you

 

dino blend = hydrocarbon/synthetic oil blend. Usally only 10-20% synthetic.

Go to Autozone and buy Castrol Syntec 0W30 (Made in Germany), or GC for shrt. That's all you need to know.

 

Damn good oil.

But, given that the owner lives in NY and it's still winter, Amsoil TSO (Series 2000 0w-30) would probably be a better choice. It's much thinner on a cold start, which will let it spread to all the important parts sooner.

Any other time of year, though, GC is great.

As for oil filters, the best choice is an Amsoil EaO filter. Next in line are NAPA Gold/Wix, Mobil 1, and K&N.

 

man you guys are confusing me. basically wat im doing is bringing my car to this gas station my grandfather uses and we pay like $30 to change the oil, so im guessing they change the filters too, if not then ill get that done, point blank, wat is the best oil to use and ALWAYS use along with the best oil filter. IN ENGLISH PLEASE lol

 

It's a complex question. It will have a complex answer. If that answer confuses you, you should learn more, simplify your question, or stop asking. Come on, man... You're 18, right? You should know that by now.

All I can say for sure is that if you're looking for the "best oil to ALWAYS use along with the best oil filter", you can kiss your $30 oil changes goodbye. It's going to cost WAY more than that.

If you really don't want to think about it, PM talkinghorse for 5 quarts of Amsoil TSO and an Amsoil EaO13 oil filter.

 

OK, here's my advice to treat your car right without making things complicated or spending and arm and a leg:

OIL: Go to Walmart or almost anywhere that sells motor oil and buy Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W30. Make sure it's the SuperSyn and make sure it's the 5W30 weight. Buy the big size (5 quarts). I'm not sure how much the VQ35 engine takes but I think it's 4.5 quarts.

FILTER: As d00d suggested, NAPA Gold/Wix and Mobil 1 filters are excellent. Just go to an auto parts store and use their book to look up which part number you need.

Hope that helps.

 

ok well i got it changed, i took it to the mobil gas station. they used the mobil1 5w30 with supersync technology. and they used some filter that they had there i forgot wat it was called? now is it rite to use the fully synthetic oil considering my car has over 61K in it. what are the benefits of spending the extra money on sythentic like i did, and wat is the bad thing about the filter i used, should i buy another filter? any feedback wud be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

Synthetic oil is better than conventional for many reasons but I can only name a few. It's more durable, I think it may have slightly less friction at a given weight/viscosity, and its properties vary less with temperature. So on a cold winter's morning, for example, synthetic will provide better protection as your engine warms up.

Can't really suggest anything about the filter you got if you don't remember the name. You can peek behind your right front wheel and take a look for yourself.

 

What are the benefits of synthetic? Everything. They flow better and work better when cold, they don't break down and leave deposits as much, they hold up and protect better at high temperatures.....

The only case in which you don't want to use a synthetic oil would be if all your seals were worn to hell and the only thing keeping them from leaking is a huge amount of crap built up on them. A good synthetic will wash away the gunk (like it's supposed to) and make the seals leak. But if your engine is at that point, you've got other problems...

Mobil 1 5w-30 is fine. If the filter is a Mobil 1 filter, then it's also fine.

 

I disagree, minor oil leaks are pretty common and don't mean that there's anything else wrong with the engine per se. I had a mild oil leak after switching to synthetic, less than 80K miles on the motor, and then I did a treatment of AutoRX. I'm now back to synthetic but I haven't looked to see if the leak is gone or not. AutoRX is supposed to clean out gunk and somehow prevent leaks. Definitely good stuff, a lot of car enthusiasts swear by it.

 

Of course. But I was talking about bad seals and lots of gunk, which is a different condition from minor leaks...

 

And how would i know if i have this... all i do kno is i get REALLY ****TY gas mileage, im talking like 15 MPG with normal driving, like wat r some symptoms of this problem u r talking about. The filter they had their didnt look like nething ive ever heard talked about in a good way, should the smart thing to do to be to go to R and S strauss, buy a mobile 1 or K & N filter and use the same oil? would that be better? and can i use the k and n filter with the mobil 1 oil cuz thats wat im gonna stick with from now on. Thanks

The only case in which you don't want to use a synthetic oil would be if all your seals were worn to hell and the only thing keeping them from leaking is a huge amount of crap built up on them. A good synthetic will wash away the gunk (like it's supposed to) and make the seals leak. But if your engine is at that point, you've got other problems...

Mobil 1 5w-30 is fine. If the filter is a Mobil 1 filter, then it's also fine.[/QUOTE]

 

That kind of problem with gunk and bad seals really only happens at very high mileage and after several years of neglect (infrequent oil changes with crap oil, etc.). So don't worry.

When you say 15 mpg, is that with mostly city driving or mostly highway driving?

As for the filter, there are plenty of awesome brands that you've never heard of. If you can't tell us what it is, we can't tell you whether it's good...

 

I am sceptical about using synth on a high mileage car as well, i purchased my max at 203.000 KM 97 gxe (not miles) it now has almost 210.000 since i dont know what has been done to the car before i dont want to use synthetic and just stick to castrol GTX, at this mileage, the engine is not leaking and feels like its in good shape, very quiet, holds rpm steady, cant complain about power either, etc. so why would i switch to synth at such a high mileage ? whats the benefit ? will it last a LOT longer if i switch to synthetic at this point in the game ?

and say theoretically it lasts another 200.000KM up to 400.000 total, the rest of the car will definitely fall apart of rust away, so whats the point of paying more for oil at this point ?

 

Hey guys,

I've been using regular dino with a Nissan Filter since I bought the car, 06 max. I just bought a m1-105 filter and a quart of mobil 1 clean 5000 5w30.. This should be fine in my car but I wanted to see what your thoughts were on switching to a full synthetic like a mobil supersyn. I currently have 13,500 miles on the car right now... :O please do voice your opinions and what I should use please

 

FYI, it's Mobil Clean 5000 and it's dino. Completely different animal than Mobil 1 "Supersyn" even if more than likely downgraded to Gr. III...

p.s. you'll need more than one quart

 

yeah haha i meant jug.. but you don't think i should have a problem switching over to a full synthetic? Could I run into leaks or knocking perhaps?

 

Hell no. Not at 13k miles.

I would use Mobil 1 5w-30 or 10w-30 at a minimum. Amsoil ASL 5w-30 or Red Line 5w-30 would be much better. Castrol Syntec 0w-30 European Formula (MUST say "Made in Germany" on the back) or Amsoil TSO 0w-30 would be your best choices.

Whichever oil you choose, make sure your oil filter is a Mobil 1 (good), K&N (good), Purolator PureOne (good), NAPA Gold/Wix (better), or Amsoil EaO (best).

 

I miss the point about syn oil causing "knocking". Mobil 1 will make the engine sound really noisy (marbles in a tin can is my recollection), but there was no "knocking."

 

Ok well then I am thinking to return the clean 5000 5w30 and get a mobil 1 supersyn 5w30 jug. I have the m1-105 stocked up already !~ Im so **** about changing my oil I hope I don't empty my wallet :[ I change it usually every 3000 miles. Maybe now I can move to 5K ?

 

Yeah I had a bad experience on my dad's camry with the stealership putting in a full synthetic. They said the car was perfectly fine, drove down the road about a mile and it started ceasing up. They towed it back there and said the synthetic made it knock and needs to be drained and changed to a regular oil... i don't believe it for a bit but its what the retard techs said

 

With Mobil 1 5w-30 and a Mobil 1 oil filter, you could easily do 5k unless you drive really hard all the time or do nothing but short trips and stop-and-go driving.

 

Wow. "Retard techs" is right. That's one of the dumbest things I've ever heard.....

 

Ok I am sold. I'll return the jug of clean 5000 and pick up the mobil 1 5w30 full syn.. Should I go with the extended performance? I mean I will change it every 5000 miles so I don't know if I really need it. Then again, I guess it is all about preference as well as your own laziness!

The friggin guys at Nissan told me not to buy it since they had it there. I said to a. go die b. i'll buy it somewhere and c. ill do it myself. They wanted to charge me 64$ for an oil change. If I brought the filter and oil in myself it would be $13 for the labor. So thats $29.95 for the jug, $9.95 for the m1-105, and $13.00 for their labor.. Thats $10 bucks less than their price. Stupid stealerships!

 

Shouldn't make a big difference either way.

Way it goes, man. An oil change is such a simple operation that there is no way it'd be worth your money to take it to a dealer. Doing it yourself lets you either pay less for the same thing or get better oil for the same money.

 

If his OCI is 5K miles, M1 will be a waste. At most, I'd say syn blend.

 

why a waste? I wouldn't want to push too much farther than 5k.. what OCI do you think I should run?

 

Any quality dino will go 5K miles under normal conditions. I say keep the Mobil Clean 5K jug.

 

Hold up, hold up. Whether an oil lasts is one thing, but whether it protects as well as another is totally different. A good dino oil might last 5k miles, but a good synthetic WILL protect better.

If you do nothing but easy highway miles, I can see keeping the Clean 5000 for now just to save yourself a trip to the store. Otherwise, you'll be better off with Mobil 1.

 

Define "protect better."

There are plenty of UOAs at BITOG showing pretty good results on dino for 5K, 6K and up.

ED: Here you go.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=0#Post835922

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=0#Post841939

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...&Number=798031

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...&Number=254834

 

Is the implication that Mobil 1 therefore is not a big upgrade? This is one of my favorite logical fallacies ever. It's like saying a Veyron is nothing special because an M3 is pretty fast.


Better protection means:

- Better wear prevention
- Better friction reduction
- Better deposit control
- Better tolerance of contaminants
- Better cold flow properties
- Better resistance to oxidation
- etc.

No matter how "pretty good" some dino and blend oils are, Mobil 1 is better.

 

M1 may be better, but not under his plans. M1 would be an upgrade IF he planned extended OCs. As it stands, M1 and 5K OCIs are just an upgrade to XOM's bottom line.

 

Should I move to something like 7000 ? I mean it seems well worth it if the oil will withstand that long of an OCI which I don't doubt that it wouldnt. However my major worry is that it may not agree well with my engine after 5000.. Then again.. the bottle itself says its good till 10k

 

I wouldn't buy the Extended Mobil 1 synthetic formula. It's significantly more expensive and I read somewhere that it was hardly any different than regular SuperSyn. Although who knows how reliable the source was.

 

You seem to be thinking strictly in terms of dollars per mile, and you're making a value judgment based on that. But what if the extra protection and peace of mind are worth the extra money to him?

Let's let him make that call.

 

Keep in mind that how long an oil lasts is determined by how long it takes for its additive package to deplete and for it to start breaking down. That does not necessarily correlate with how well it protects. An oil that doesn't protect as well will perform worse and worse as you rack up the miles because it will accumulate wear particles more quickly, so if you're cheaping out on your oil, you have less room to play with longer intervals.

 

Please. Show me in any of those UOAs I linked, where the dino failed to "protect".

What extra protection a syn oil provide that a dino does not in 5K miles?

 

First, you show me where I said the dino oils "failed". It's obvious they did a great job, and I never debated that. All I've been saying is that good synthetics can do better.

If you're still asking what a syn oil can do in 5k miles that a dino can't, then either:

1. You need to do quite a bit more reading, which I don't feel like holding your hand through; or

2. You have made up your mind that, since the advantages of a synthetic are smaller over small OCIs, they are not worth the price difference. In that case, you need to clarify that that is your reasoning, because it is a value judgment and not an absolute truth.

Either way, I'm not going to debate this further. The person who asked the initial question has information from both sides and two people to PM for different opinions. I'm sure he can make a decision himself.