German Castrol Strikes Again!!!
04-25-2006, 02:27 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
German Castrol Strikes Again!!!
Hey Guys, just got my latest lab report back from Blackstone. I posted all the data and some discussion over at BITOG already. You can see it here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=003426
I'm just amazed at how well this stuff performs. Wear metals nearly non-existent, TBN over 4 (very strong using Blackstone's method), fluid condition like new, particles very low (with a K&N oil filter no less).
As you can imagine, I'm very happy with this one. I could probably run this oil out to 20,000 miles (but will stop at 7500 until the wty is up).
I'm just amazed at how well this stuff performs. Wear metals nearly non-existent, TBN over 4 (very strong using Blackstone's method), fluid condition like new, particles very low (with a K&N oil filter no less).
As you can imagine, I'm very happy with this one. I could probably run this oil out to 20,000 miles (but will stop at 7500 until the wty is up).
04-26-2006, 07:53 AM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
Konak is correct, in the US, it's only available at Autozone (in Canada, Wal-Mart reportedly carries it too). Be careful when shopping for it, though, there is an older US-made 0w-30 that's sometimes intermixed on the shelves. The bottles are similar, but not the same. Check over on BITOG for all the details and minutae regarding batch numbers (stamped on the bottom of the bottle). The most reliable thing you can do is look for "Made in Germany" somewhere on the back label. If it says this, AND it's an M03... or M04... batch, it's green. The earliest green had late M02... batches, but the US made stuff had earlier M02... numbers so be careful of that. Also, the last green was very early 2005 vintage and had an M05... batch, and the gold picked up with later M05... batches. Easiest is to look for M03... or M04... batches.
04-26-2006, 08:43 AM
#7
All I can say is wow.
Well, with a VOA TBN of 8.5-9, more like 12-15K... 
How long until you're out of warranty???
Originally Posted by Torkaholic
As you can imagine, I'm very happy with this one. I could probably run this oil out to 20,000 miles (but will stop at 7500 until the wty is up).
How long until you're out of warranty???
04-26-2006, 09:04 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
PT wty on the G is 60 or 72 -- shame on me, I've forgotten. I'd better look that up soon. . . Either way, I'm still in it for now. Have I just nominated myself for the dumba$$ of the month award???
As to the duration and TBN, I'd probably dump it around 15k anyway, just because. On the other hand, don't forget the TBN decline does not follow a linear curve. According to my oil analyst, it often plunges off quickly after installation, stays relatively flat for a long time, and then makes a death dive at the very end. There are some fairly lengthy UOA with this oil over on BITOG, either way, I'll ultimately do my OCI pushing carefully, and with later UOA to confirm safety. Tune in next year for more info!
As to the duration and TBN, I'd probably dump it around 15k anyway, just because. On the other hand, don't forget the TBN decline does not follow a linear curve. According to my oil analyst, it often plunges off quickly after installation, stays relatively flat for a long time, and then makes a death dive at the very end. There are some fairly lengthy UOA with this oil over on BITOG, either way, I'll ultimately do my OCI pushing carefully, and with later UOA to confirm safety. Tune in next year for more info!
05-02-2006, 01:55 PM
#10
+1 for the GC. I'm coming up on my first change in a month or so, gonna send it off to blackstone for a check. I'm gonna do 6k miles and see what the results are, this is after doing the whole autorx cleaning. 3500 miles so far and it has not burned a drop that I can tell. 
05-02-2006, 02:56 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
is this stuff synthetic or dino based. Is it that hard to find? I don't notice any different brands of Castrol when I shop?
I just finished an OCI with it, and will post my results soon. I replaced the GC with valvoline Maxlife (that I got FAR) and my fuel econmy went up ~8mpg on the very first tank (although i did a bit more highway driving than usual). 28.5 mpg on the maxlife. best i ever got with GC was 24 mpg with ALL easy highway miles at 65mph, and usually got between 19 and 21.
05-02-2006, 07:58 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
Skyjumper:
It is a thick 30, no doubt, but just last week, I managed 26.6 mpg on an all-highway tank, and that's in a G35 no less (shorter gearing than a Max -- a tad quicker off the line, a good bit thirstier. . .). My mileage stayed pretty consistent from when I used Havo dino (breakin) and Mobil Clean 5k (after an experimental AutoRx treatment). Not disputing your measurements, but there may be more at work than meets the eye.
EDIT: oh yeah, your description of the product is correct -- I'm one of the guys who chipped in for the "high-tech" look at the oil ( ). It is a very unique formulation. Interesting, and effective, stuff.
It is a thick 30, no doubt, but just last week, I managed 26.6 mpg on an all-highway tank, and that's in a G35 no less (shorter gearing than a Max -- a tad quicker off the line, a good bit thirstier. . .). My mileage stayed pretty consistent from when I used Havo dino (breakin) and Mobil Clean 5k (after an experimental AutoRx treatment). Not disputing your measurements, but there may be more at work than meets the eye.
EDIT: oh yeah, your description of the product is correct -- I'm one of the guys who chipped in for the "high-tech" look at the oil (
). It is a very unique formulation. Interesting, and effective, stuff.
05-19-2006, 12:46 PM
#15
Hey Torkaholic, a few questions, as there are many conflicting reports in the threads I searched through.
1. Is the USA made G.C. true synthetic?
2. How is 0W30 a 'thicker' 30 weight?
3. Has anyone had the great results with the Gold, like the Green?
4. Does it really reduce mileage 3 mpg? That's quite a hit....
5. Is it OK to use in the winter, it seems, it will be fine just as 5W30 is?
Edit..only 0W30 Castrol Syntec at my AutoZone says made in USA on the bottle.
1. Is the USA made G.C. true synthetic?
2. How is 0W30 a 'thicker' 30 weight?
3. Has anyone had the great results with the Gold, like the Green?
4. Does it really reduce mileage 3 mpg? That's quite a hit....
5. Is it OK to use in the winter, it seems, it will be fine just as 5W30 is?
Edit..only 0W30 Castrol Syntec at my AutoZone says made in USA on the bottle.
05-20-2006, 07:39 AM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
1. "USA made GC" is a misnomer. The easiest way to ID "German Castrol" is to look for "Made in Germany" at one of a couple locations on the back of the bottle. Whether it's green or gold formula can be determined by batch numbers on the bottom of the bottle. The Made in US stuff, replaced by the German formula in late 2002 is apparently a basic Group-III product like the rest of the Syntec line.
2. Oil viscosity is measured in "centistokes", abbreviated cSt. This oil is blended so that it meets the cold pumping requirements to qualify for the "0W" cold rating, but at 100 deg C, it's still just above 12 cSt. Most of the commonly available xw-30 oils come in around 10-11 cSt. GC is actually pretty close to being a 0w-40 based upon the defined cSt ranges of 30 and 40 wt oils.
3. Check out the BITOG UOA section. Gold users do seem to be getting very good results. If I didn't have a big stash of green, I'd gold without hesitation.
4. I have NOT seen that sort of mileage reduction in my VQ powered G35, but then again, G35 mileage sux anyway. . . I've done a few runs of other, thinner oils, and have seen no difference (OTOH, I can't claim any scientific validity, just casual observation).
5. Better in winter than a 5w-30, especially a petro 5w-30. Not a real benefit for me in FL, but Wisconsin may get cold enough that you realize a perceptible benefit. Member "Patman", one of the mods at BITOG uses GC in his 'vette, and he lives up in Mississaugua Ontario. He reports it works very well for him even in the coldest part of winter.
My BITOG screen name is "ekpolk". Check out both my G35 and Toyota Sequoia results. GC is good stuff. Try it, you'll probably like it!
2. Oil viscosity is measured in "centistokes", abbreviated cSt. This oil is blended so that it meets the cold pumping requirements to qualify for the "0W" cold rating, but at 100 deg C, it's still just above 12 cSt. Most of the commonly available xw-30 oils come in around 10-11 cSt. GC is actually pretty close to being a 0w-40 based upon the defined cSt ranges of 30 and 40 wt oils.
3. Check out the BITOG UOA section. Gold users do seem to be getting very good results. If I didn't have a big stash of green, I'd gold without hesitation.
4. I have NOT seen that sort of mileage reduction in my VQ powered G35, but then again, G35 mileage sux anyway. . . I've done a few runs of other, thinner oils, and have seen no difference (OTOH, I can't claim any scientific validity, just casual observation).
5. Better in winter than a 5w-30, especially a petro 5w-30. Not a real benefit for me in FL, but Wisconsin may get cold enough that you realize a perceptible benefit. Member "Patman", one of the mods at BITOG uses GC in his 'vette, and he lives up in Mississaugua Ontario. He reports it works very well for him even in the coldest part of winter.
My BITOG screen name is "ekpolk". Check out both my G35 and Toyota Sequoia results. GC is good stuff. Try it, you'll probably like it!
05-26-2006, 07:20 AM
#17
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 71
I just picked up 5 quarts of this German Made stuff at Autozone. Its all gold in color. I imagine tinting it green made some people uncomfortable. Might be a marketing opportunity out there. Offer oil in several designer colors or Natuaral :-)
In any case, this will be the first synthetic my car has seen in its life. I figure it wont be in there long as it will no doubt find all sorts of nasty goo to wrap itself around.
How long before it turns black. Any guesses? Its a 98 Max with about 75000 miles on it. The last two oil changes were Castrol GTX 5W/30. At present the oil is a slightly brown color after 1400 miles.
In any case, this will be the first synthetic my car has seen in its life. I figure it wont be in there long as it will no doubt find all sorts of nasty goo to wrap itself around.
How long before it turns black. Any guesses? Its a 98 Max with about 75000 miles on it. The last two oil changes were Castrol GTX 5W/30. At present the oil is a slightly brown color after 1400 miles.
05-26-2006, 09:10 AM
#18
It was the formulation that made it green. The formulation has been changed, the green is no longer produced, though you can still find old bottles if you search real hard. You should run a dose of AutoRX through your car before changing to the GC.
05-27-2006, 05:55 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by ChasMan
I just picked up 5 quarts of this German Made stuff at Autozone. Its all gold in color. I imagine tinting it green made some people uncomfortable. Might be a marketing opportunity out there. Offer oil in several designer colors or Natuaral :-)
In any case, this will be the first synthetic my car has seen in its life. I figure it wont be in there long as it will no doubt find all sorts of nasty goo to wrap itself around.
How long before it turns black. Any guesses? Its a 98 Max with about 75000 miles on it. The last two oil changes were Castrol GTX 5W/30. At present the oil is a slightly brown color after 1400 miles.
In any case, this will be the first synthetic my car has seen in its life. I figure it wont be in there long as it will no doubt find all sorts of nasty goo to wrap itself around.
How long before it turns black. Any guesses? Its a 98 Max with about 75000 miles on it. The last two oil changes were Castrol GTX 5W/30. At present the oil is a slightly brown color after 1400 miles.
You got the "gold formula," which is GC manufactured after early 2005. The product made from very late 2002 until the beginning of 2005 is the stuff that has the green shade as it comes out of the bottle.
How quickly it will discolor depends upon a lot of factors, such as the cleanliness and age of your engine, environmental conditions, etc. The VQ35 in my G35 is healthy, clean, and relatively young (52,000 miles). I just changed out a fill of GC-green at 7100 miles (planning to go 10k normally once the wty is up). It was a deep amber (had lost the green color), but still very transparent, not black or opaque yet at all. I'm driving the car heavily (this was over less than two months) in very hot, down south conditions.
05-27-2006, 06:09 PM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by Dasyce
Would this stuff be considered better then Mobile 1?
: Mobile is a medium-sized city on the Gulf Coast in Alabama. Mobil is the company that brews oil. . . "Better" among oils is like trying to decide what's "better" at your local Baskin-Robbins ice cream shop. What works great for some may not be so good for others. The VQ series engines seem to like somewhat thicker oils. A strong clue about this is that the three spec-ed oils right now are 5w-30, 10w-30 and 10w-40. GC itself is a pretty "thick" 30 wt oil. It consistently tests out at just over 12 cSt at 100 deg C, whereas the Mobil-1 xw-30 oils mostly weigh in around 10 cSt (though standard formula 5w-30, not EP, is almost 11 cSt). Anyway, the used oil analyses from VQ engines seem to bear out that it prefers slightly thicker oils like GC.
Now, is GC "better" than M-1? I suppose that depends upon what's most important to you. Both are great products. Knowing what I have learned now, if I were using M1, I'd probably add a qt or two of the 15w-50 to whatever 30 wt I was using, but that's just me.
06-03-2006, 12:12 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...529;p=1#000004
This is a link to the BITOG posting of the UOA of the same oil, sampled just before I dumped it at 7100 miles. As you can see, there's been a small increase in wear metal (may or may not be significant), a small increase in particles (but oil still grades clean to hydraulic fluid standards), and a drop in TBN. I'm thinking I'll just settle in on nice easy to remember 10,000 mile OCIs once the wty is up. This oil goes the distance, and does so very nicely. And though I'll probably use K&N filters predominantly, I'll probably do an interval or two changing back to an M1 to see if I get noticeable differences in particle counts (or other parameters for that matter).
Thoughts, comments, questions welcome.
This is a link to the BITOG posting of the UOA of the same oil, sampled just before I dumped it at 7100 miles. As you can see, there's been a small increase in wear metal (may or may not be significant), a small increase in particles (but oil still grades clean to hydraulic fluid standards), and a drop in TBN. I'm thinking I'll just settle in on nice easy to remember 10,000 mile OCIs once the wty is up. This oil goes the distance, and does so very nicely. And though I'll probably use K&N filters predominantly, I'll probably do an interval or two changing back to an M1 to see if I get noticeable differences in particle counts (or other parameters for that matter).
Thoughts, comments, questions welcome.
06-13-2006, 01:05 PM
#23
[QUOTE=Torkaholic]1. "USA made GC" is a misnomer. The easiest way to ID "German Castrol" is to look for "Made in Germany" at one of a couple locations on the back of the bottle. Whether it's green or gold formula can be determined by batch numbers on the bottom of the bottle. The Made in US stuff, replaced by the German formula in late 2002 is apparently a basic Group-III product like the rest of the Syntec line.
-------------------------------------------------------
Tork, are you saying the USA made oil is older, and has been replaced by the German made oil? I went to 2 AutoZone locations, both had the unique red label Syntec 0W30 but all bottles read 'Made in USA'.
-------------------------------------------------------
Tork, are you saying the USA made oil is older, and has been replaced by the German made oil? I went to 2 AutoZone locations, both had the unique red label Syntec 0W30 but all bottles read 'Made in USA'.
06-13-2006, 04:02 PM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
[QUOTE=JwaxMax99]
I agree with CCS. We need both pics and batch numbers (see the bottom of the bottle). The "pre-GC," US made 0w-30 was produced until some time in late 2002. The GC with the green tint was produced from late 2002 until early 2005. The "gold" colored GC picked up in early 2005. Where a particular oil falls can be determined by reference to its batch number, which again, is stamped on the bottom. There are also more subtle differences, for example, the Green GC meets the Mercedes standards MB 229.1 and 229.3, whereas the Gold meets MB 229.5. Old US made 0w-30 does not meet these standards.
Also, don't be led astray by the "for sale in North America" or "not for sale outside the americas" language, or "Castrol North America" which appears on all the "Made in Germany" bottles. We need to see specific "Made in US" language.
There's a now nearly worthless thread bouncing around on BITOG in which a new member (from South FL) claims to have seen a new, US made ("post GC"?) 0w-30 on the shelves. Despite eight pages of repartee about this, no one has come forward with either a photo or batch number on the stuff.
Please return to one of those AZs (or both) and record the batch numbers and take a digi photo of the bottle, front, back, and bottom. If you don't have the capability to host them, say so, and I'll PM you instructions on how to send me the pics, and I'll host them. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Torkaholic
1. "USA made GC" is a misnomer. The easiest way to ID "German Castrol" is to look for "Made in Germany" at one of a couple locations on the back of the bottle. Whether it's green or gold formula can be determined by batch numbers on the bottom of the bottle. The Made in US stuff, replaced by the German formula in late 2002 is apparently a basic Group-III product like the rest of the Syntec line.
-------------------------------------------------------
Tork, are you saying the USA made oil is older, and has been replaced by the German made oil? I went to 2 AutoZone locations, both had the unique red label Syntec 0W30 but all bottles read 'Made in USA'.
-------------------------------------------------------
Tork, are you saying the USA made oil is older, and has been replaced by the German made oil? I went to 2 AutoZone locations, both had the unique red label Syntec 0W30 but all bottles read 'Made in USA'.
Also, don't be led astray by the "for sale in North America" or "not for sale outside the americas" language, or "Castrol North America" which appears on all the "Made in Germany" bottles. We need to see specific "Made in US" language.
There's a now nearly worthless thread bouncing around on BITOG in which a new member (from South FL) claims to have seen a new, US made ("post GC"?) 0w-30 on the shelves. Despite eight pages of repartee about this, no one has come forward with either a photo or batch number on the stuff.
Please return to one of those AZs (or both) and record the batch numbers and take a digi photo of the bottle, front, back, and bottom. If you don't have the capability to host them, say so, and I'll PM you instructions on how to send me the pics, and I'll host them. Thanks.
06-13-2006, 06:04 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
Jwax:
Reviewing the thread, I realize that I did not answer one of your original questions. GC is a Group IV/V synthetic, so to the extent that it's not a Group III like the rest of the Syntec line, it is a "real" syn. This applies with certainty to the green formula and with "almost certainty" to the gold. How do we know? About 18 months ago, a bunch of us got together chipped in, and had some expensive "science" done on a sample of green (not your simple $25 UOA). It's "real" synthetic.
Reviewing the thread, I realize that I did not answer one of your original questions. GC is a Group IV/V synthetic, so to the extent that it's not a Group III like the rest of the Syntec line, it is a "real" syn. This applies with certainty to the green formula and with "almost certainty" to the gold. How do we know? About 18 months ago, a bunch of us got together chipped in, and had some expensive "science" done on a sample of green (not your simple $25 UOA). It's "real" synthetic.
06-13-2006, 06:38 PM
#27
[QUOTE=Torkaholic]
I agree with CCS. We need both pics and batch numbers (see the bottom of the bottle). The "pre-GC," US made 0w-30 was produced until some time in late 2002. The GC with the green tint was produced from late 2002 until early 2005. The "gold" colored GC picked up in early 2005. Where a particular oil falls can be determined by reference to its batch number, which again, is stamped on the bottom. There are also more subtle differences, for example, the Green GC meets the Mercedes standards MB 229.1 and 229.3, whereas the Gold meets MB 229.5. Old US made 0w-30 does not meet these standards.
Also, don't be led astray by the "for sale in North America" or "not for sale outside the americas" language, or "Castrol North America" which appears on all the "Made in Germany" bottles. We need to see specific "Made in US" language.
There's a now nearly worthless thread bouncing around on BITOG in which a new member (from South FL) claims to have seen a new, US made ("post GC"?) 0w-30 on the shelves. Despite eight pages of repartee about this, no one has come forward with either a photo or batch number on the stuff.
Please return to one of those AZs (or both) and record the batch numbers and take a digi photo of the bottle, front, back, and bottom. If you don't have the capability to host them, say so, and I'll PM you instructions on how to send me the pics, and I'll host them. Thanks.
I already went to AutoZone 2 times and looked at this oil.
The worthless thread you spoke of on BITOG is true it appears, as I saw too the 'Made in the USA' on the bottle.
OK, I will buy a bottle this week and post a pic.
Or is this oil I saw old pre 2002 or so lefovers??
Originally Posted by JwaxMax99
I agree with CCS. We need both pics and batch numbers (see the bottom of the bottle). The "pre-GC," US made 0w-30 was produced until some time in late 2002. The GC with the green tint was produced from late 2002 until early 2005. The "gold" colored GC picked up in early 2005. Where a particular oil falls can be determined by reference to its batch number, which again, is stamped on the bottom. There are also more subtle differences, for example, the Green GC meets the Mercedes standards MB 229.1 and 229.3, whereas the Gold meets MB 229.5. Old US made 0w-30 does not meet these standards.
Also, don't be led astray by the "for sale in North America" or "not for sale outside the americas" language, or "Castrol North America" which appears on all the "Made in Germany" bottles. We need to see specific "Made in US" language.
There's a now nearly worthless thread bouncing around on BITOG in which a new member (from South FL) claims to have seen a new, US made ("post GC"?) 0w-30 on the shelves. Despite eight pages of repartee about this, no one has come forward with either a photo or batch number on the stuff.
Please return to one of those AZs (or both) and record the batch numbers and take a digi photo of the bottle, front, back, and bottom. If you don't have the capability to host them, say so, and I'll PM you instructions on how to send me the pics, and I'll host them. Thanks.
The worthless thread you spoke of on BITOG is true it appears, as I saw too the 'Made in the USA' on the bottle.
OK, I will buy a bottle this week and post a pic.
Or is this oil I saw old pre 2002 or so lefovers??
06-13-2006, 07:49 PM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
[QUOTE=JwaxMax99]
I already went to AutoZone 2 times and looked at this oil.
The worthless thread you spoke of on BITOG is true it appears, as I saw too the 'Made in the USA' on the bottle.
OK, I will buy a bottle this week and post a pic.
Or is this oil I saw old pre 2002 or so lefovers??
Jwax:
Please understand that our responses to your posts are in no way intended to question either your competence or integrity. At this point, from the several substantially inconsistent descriptions of the product, I'm suspecting that what's being seen and described is in fact old "pre-GC" stock (beware, some US made has early 2002 batch #s -- the key is still the "Made in ____"). There is still plenty of this stuff lurking around. I work in New Orleans during the week, and live in Pensacola, 200 miles to the east, where I spend weekends. I have seen "pre-GC" in both towns in the last 30 days. There may very well be a new product appearing, a post-GC US made oil. If that's the case, you've got the chance to be the first to prove its existence (gee, won't you feel complete. . .) by posting some pics, and noting batch numbers; thereby putting this back-and-forth and speculation to rest. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Torkaholic
I already went to AutoZone 2 times and looked at this oil.
The worthless thread you spoke of on BITOG is true it appears, as I saw too the 'Made in the USA' on the bottle.
OK, I will buy a bottle this week and post a pic.
Or is this oil I saw old pre 2002 or so lefovers??
Please understand that our responses to your posts are in no way intended to question either your competence or integrity. At this point, from the several substantially inconsistent descriptions of the product, I'm suspecting that what's being seen and described is in fact old "pre-GC" stock (beware, some US made has early 2002 batch #s -- the key is still the "Made in ____"). There is still plenty of this stuff lurking around. I work in New Orleans during the week, and live in Pensacola, 200 miles to the east, where I spend weekends. I have seen "pre-GC" in both towns in the last 30 days. There may very well be a new product appearing, a post-GC US made oil. If that's the case, you've got the chance to be the first to prove its existence (gee, won't you feel complete. . .) by posting some pics, and noting batch numbers; thereby putting this back-and-forth and speculation to rest. Thanks.
06-14-2006, 04:18 PM
#29
Stopped in at AutoZone this afternoon. What follows is the info I copied from the label.
Made in the USA. from domestic and imported components. Meets gasoline engine protection requirements of Porsche, BMW, Volvo, and Mercedes Benz. API Service SL. ILSAC GF-3. ACEA A1-98.
And, most importantly the code from the bottom of the bottle.
M022006A99A1 0804
So, this is some possibly expired oil? haha
Made in the USA. from domestic and imported components. Meets gasoline engine protection requirements of Porsche, BMW, Volvo, and Mercedes Benz. API Service SL. ILSAC GF-3. ACEA A1-98.
And, most importantly the code from the bottom of the bottle.
M022006A99A1 0804
So, this is some possibly expired oil? haha
06-14-2006, 06:11 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
Jwax:
Thank you very much for taking the time to check. What you saw, at least on this visit, was indeed the "pre-GC", US made 0w-30, probably one of the very last batches (made on the 200th day of 2002). The very earliest GC appeared toward the end of 02.
Thank you very much for taking the time to check. What you saw, at least on this visit, was indeed the "pre-GC", US made 0w-30, probably one of the very last batches (made on the 200th day of 2002). The very earliest GC appeared toward the end of 02.
06-17-2006, 08:26 AM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
First time around, ~4600 miles. I left the oil in, and then sampled again at 7100 miles just before I changed it. I was staying with ~7500 to avoid potential wty problems. Post wty, which will be soon, I'm thinking I'll do nice, easy to track 10,000 mile OCIs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
James92SE
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
142
01-02-2024 09:23 AM