Autometer tranny temp gage still doesn't work
10-12-2002, 11:08 AM
#1
Autometer tranny temp gage still doesn't work
From the day that they got installed the needle doesn't move on this one gage. The voltmeter is fine and the coolant temp would be fine, but the stock sender isn't calibrated the same as the Autometer stuff is. I'll have to get the Autometer sender drilled and tapped in so that one reads correctly. The needle doesn't spike when you turn the car to "on" like the other two. These are electrical gages. I just got done swapping the sending units hoping that was the defective part. No such luck. Got it up to running temp and the needle still doesn't move.
I guess I'm going to have to have Autometer send me another gage. I really didn't want to rip the console apart.
I guess I'm going to have to have Autometer send me another gage. I really didn't want to rip the console apart.
got something new in the mail today..
10-13-2002, 10:51 PM
#3
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Did you use the manifold to tap into the line of the ATF cooler? Or did you drill and weld a bong into the pan? If you are using the temp manifold, you need to ground the manifold.
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01060.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/1max2nv...e/DCP01060.JPG
10-14-2002, 08:20 AM
#4
I have it in a T fitting into the flexible line, but the fitting itself isn't grounded. It's similar to their manifold, but not as large. The gage itself is grounded, but not where the sender is. I thought it was a problem with the gage body since the needle doesn't spike with the key at the "on" position like the other two do. Hmm...
10-14-2002, 08:24 AM
#5
Originally posted by maxmizd27
I have it in a T fitting into the flexible line, but the fitting itself isn't grounded. It's similar to their manifold, but not as large. The gage itself is grounded, but not where the sender is. I thought it was a problem with the gage body since the needle doesn't spike with the key at the "on" position like the other two do. Hmm...
I have it in a T fitting into the flexible line, but the fitting itself isn't grounded. It's similar to their manifold, but not as large. The gage itself is grounded, but not where the sender is. I thought it was a problem with the gage body since the needle doesn't spike with the key at the "on" position like the other two do. Hmm...
then on the sensor you should have the manifold/outter part of the sensor grounded. then have the sending wire on the TOP of the temp probe.
10-14-2002, 08:28 AM
#6
It doesn't jump. The other two do. They are fine. I also have a coolant temp and a voltmeter. I wonder if I can solder a wire to the body of that T fitting to ground it? There is no place to put in a screw like the Autometer manifold.
10-14-2002, 08:30 AM
#7
Originally posted by maxmizd27
It doesn't jump. The other two do. They are fine. I also have a coolant temp and a voltmeter. I wonder if I can solder a wire to the body of that T fitting to ground it? There is no place to put in a screw like the Autometer manifold.
It doesn't jump. The other two do. They are fine. I also have a coolant temp and a voltmeter. I wonder if I can solder a wire to the body of that T fitting to ground it? There is no place to put in a screw like the Autometer manifold.
10-14-2002, 08:35 AM
#8
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I assume those t-fittings are brass if so you can't solder wire onto brass. You have to weld it on or use JB weld.
Originally posted by maxmizd27
It doesn't jump. The other two do. They are fine. I also have a coolant temp and a voltmeter. I wonder if I can solder a wire to the body of that T fitting to ground it? There is no place to put in a screw like the Autometer manifold.
It doesn't jump. The other two do. They are fine. I also have a coolant temp and a voltmeter. I wonder if I can solder a wire to the body of that T fitting to ground it? There is no place to put in a screw like the Autometer manifold.
10-14-2002, 08:52 AM
#9
Originally posted by DanNY
well even if it wasn't grounded you should still see it jump. solder, weld or clamp...just as long as u get a grounding point on it.
well even if it wasn't grounded you should still see it jump. solder, weld or clamp...just as long as u get a grounding point on it.
Tony, the fitting is brass. You can't solder onto brass?
10-14-2002, 02:05 PM
#10
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I tried and failed. The brass absorbed all the heat from the soldering iron. I really think the only way is to weld it on or just ghetto rig it via JB weld.
Originally posted by maxmizd27
That's why I thought it was the gage itself once I tried another sender. I didn't know the sender had to be grounded too.
Tony, the fitting is brass. You can't solder onto brass?
That's why I thought it was the gage itself once I tried another sender. I didn't know the sender had to be grounded too.
Tony, the fitting is brass. You can't solder onto brass?
10-14-2002, 04:20 PM
#11
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
I tried and failed. The brass absorbed all the heat from the soldering iron. I really think the only way is to weld it on or just ghetto rig it via JB weld.
I tried and failed. The brass absorbed all the heat from the soldering iron. I really think the only way is to weld it on or just ghetto rig it via JB weld.
10-15-2002, 10:28 AM
#13
I'll have to get in the dash and see how they have the gages grounded. A guy I work with said that the gages don't like to have their grounding wires connected in series (one gage to the next to the next). He said his only worked when he ran a seperate ground wire from each gage, spliced them together and then grounded that wire. It was the middle of three gages that didn't work for him either.
10-15-2002, 11:08 AM
#14
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Brian,
I think the problem is the ground to the probe and NOT the ground to the gauge itself.
I think the problem is the ground to the probe and NOT the ground to the gauge itself.
Originally posted by maxmizd27
I'll have to get in the dash and see how they have the gages grounded. A guy I work with said that the gages don't like to have their grounding wires connected in series (one gage to the next to the next). He said his only worked when he ran a seperate ground wire from each gage, spliced them together and then grounded that wire. It was the middle of three gages that didn't work for him either.
I'll have to get in the dash and see how they have the gages grounded. A guy I work with said that the gages don't like to have their grounding wires connected in series (one gage to the next to the next). He said his only worked when he ran a seperate ground wire from each gage, spliced them together and then grounded that wire. It was the middle of three gages that didn't work for him either.
10-15-2002, 11:22 AM
#15
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
Brian,
I think the problem is the ground to the probe and NOT the ground to the gauge itself.
Brian,
I think the problem is the ground to the probe and NOT the ground to the gauge itself.
Whos idea was this?
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