loosing intake resonator "box".....
#1
that's between the throttle body and the airfilter and has 3 vaccuum lines (2 large, 1 small) coming out of it. What the hell is this plastic box for and can I loose it? I know Dave B just posted about it with an HKS intake, but I dont have an HKS intake, just an office depot rigged K&N cone. I also might loose the MAF sensor screen, cause its all trapped with oil from my K&N filter. I thought I saw a site somewhere that describes making the piece that replaces the intake resonator. Ideas?
#2
The intake resonator box is there to quiet the intake tract and to provide a good source to attach the vacumn lines. As you have read and heard, the VQ is a VERY noisy engine both on the intake and exhaust sidde when you open things up. Nissan went to great lengths to quiet the VQ down. Believe me, your intake will be much deeper when you remove it.
Honestly, if you don't have the HKS intake, I see no way of getting around the intake resonater. I searched forever trying to find a PVC pipe that would work as a resonator replacement. Unfortunately, the PVC piping was always too big on the outside and too small on the inside. Do yourself a favor and contact Place Racing and order the silicone couplers and pipe they use to remove the resonator. They sell everything for about $70 and I think it would be money well spent because you know it would work.
BTW, if you've got K&N filter oil on your MAF screen, chances are you've got oil on the MAF elements. Not good. Over time those elements will go to hell because of the oily residue. Remember, you don't have to clean the K&N filters, but maybe once every 30K miles or so and don't go crazy on the oil.
Dave
Honestly, if you don't have the HKS intake, I see no way of getting around the intake resonater. I searched forever trying to find a PVC pipe that would work as a resonator replacement. Unfortunately, the PVC piping was always too big on the outside and too small on the inside. Do yourself a favor and contact Place Racing and order the silicone couplers and pipe they use to remove the resonator. They sell everything for about $70 and I think it would be money well spent because you know it would work.
BTW, if you've got K&N filter oil on your MAF screen, chances are you've got oil on the MAF elements. Not good. Over time those elements will go to hell because of the oily residue. Remember, you don't have to clean the K&N filters, but maybe once every 30K miles or so and don't go crazy on the oil.
Dave
#3
The resonator actually does serve a purpose on the power end of things too. For most cars, it'll open up the lower end of the power range, giving you more power in the 1000-3000rpm area, but you lose power up top.
I've got a book on advanced engine design at work that describes it in full detail. I'll try to get scans of those pages if you gentlemen want them.
I was thinking about maybe sticking a solenoid in my resonator tube, activated by my power valve solenoid (the VG engine also has variable intake tracts, which opens at approx 3500rpm)... if there was some way I could attach that, there could be a possibility of a few more horses on either end of the scale.
but for the grease monkey that I am, I removed the resonator on my engine several months ago.. it's MUCH MUCH louder, but I noticed zero power difference.
I've got a book on advanced engine design at work that describes it in full detail. I'll try to get scans of those pages if you gentlemen want them.
I was thinking about maybe sticking a solenoid in my resonator tube, activated by my power valve solenoid (the VG engine also has variable intake tracts, which opens at approx 3500rpm)... if there was some way I could attach that, there could be a possibility of a few more horses on either end of the scale.
but for the grease monkey that I am, I removed the resonator on my engine several months ago.. it's MUCH MUCH louder, but I noticed zero power difference.
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