Front Suspension related issues...
08-10-2003, 07:26 PM
#1
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Front Suspension related issues...Revisited
Hey,
I have this clunk/knock for like 8 months now in the front under the the car mainly on the passanger side and I can't figure it out!!
It's driving me crazy! I have new struts, new end links for the sway bar, newer strut bearings, and I think I went over all the bolts under there. I can feel EVERYTHING on the road through my steering wheel. However, the car absorbs larger bumps fine. It's the smaller bumps/cracks that bring out the noise and the harshness. I know that some of the harshness is due to the stiffer GR2 struts/shocks, but It shouldn't be THAT bad. I've been told that bad strut mount isolators cause the harshness. I'm looking for other suggestions before I throw out another $70 for new strut isolators. On the other hand, I just installed an RSB. The car feels more neutral now. It's weird because the front feels like it has less traction now. I can get the rear to kick out in slow sharp corners now 
How can I adjust the ADDCO RSB?
Thanks.
I have this clunk/knock for like 8 months now in the front under the the car mainly on the passanger side and I can't figure it out!!
It's driving me crazy! I have new struts, new end links for the sway bar, newer strut bearings, and I think I went over all the bolts under there. I can feel EVERYTHING on the road through my steering wheel. However, the car absorbs larger bumps fine. It's the smaller bumps/cracks that bring out the noise and the harshness. I know that some of the harshness is due to the stiffer GR2 struts/shocks, but It shouldn't be THAT bad. I've been told that bad strut mount isolators cause the harshness. I'm looking for other suggestions before I throw out another $70 for new strut isolators. On the other hand, I just installed an RSB. The car feels more neutral now. It's weird because the front feels like it has less traction now. I can get the rear to kick out in slow sharp corners now How can I adjust the ADDCO RSB? Thanks.
08-10-2003, 09:49 PM
#2
Re: Front Suspension related issues...
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 2KxSEx
[B]Hey,
How can I adjust the ADDCO RSB?
position the C-clamps on the rear beam closer to the center of the vehicle.
RE : your noise could be coused by many things - only trial and error will help you find the cause - be patient!!!
Nick.
[B]Hey,
How can I adjust the ADDCO RSB?
position the C-clamps on the rear beam closer to the center of the vehicle.
RE : your noise could be coused by many things - only trial and error will help you find the cause - be patient!!!
Nick.
08-11-2003, 04:32 AM
#4
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If your springs are not seated correctly in the upper spring perch, one or more of your coils might be hitting each other. Even if there isolated, you'll hear and feel the clunk.
Check the upper mount first, open the hood and look at the center nuts. Use a 17mm socket and make sure there tight and they don't move around. Try to wiggle them back and forth with something, they should be firm. Remember the upper mount is a rubber bushing so the movement you may get should just be from the rubber giving slightly. If the mount is shot, you'll be able to move the nut on top of the piston around quite a bit.
Check the upper mount first, open the hood and look at the center nuts. Use a 17mm socket and make sure there tight and they don't move around. Try to wiggle them back and forth with something, they should be firm. Remember the upper mount is a rubber bushing so the movement you may get should just be from the rubber giving slightly. If the mount is shot, you'll be able to move the nut on top of the piston around quite a bit.
08-11-2003, 07:49 PM
#7
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I can actually feel the knocking with my feet. It feels like something is very loose underneath, but I checked many times with no success. By the way, my strut mount isolators are stipped where the piston goes through. So when I go to tighten the piston nut the piston just spins with the nut until I finally tighten it down. Could this cause the Caster to change? Mine is at 2.0 on both sides as oppose to 2.6 as per Nissan. The caster used to be at 2.6 a long time ago I should add
Thanks.
Thanks.
08-12-2003, 04:21 AM
#8
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The upper strut mount hole is keyed. When the key way wares down, the piston spings when you tighten it. Happens, usually a shot from an impact guy will get the nut tight. That shouldn't effect caster. Incorrect caster reading usually means something is bent. Being your caster is even on both sides, I'd leave it alone.
You could have a bad strut too.
You could have a bad strut too.
08-12-2003, 07:38 PM
#9
Lots of people have this problem (if yours is the one I'm thinking about), there was a thread about it 3 months back. When you're stopped and then launch(no matter how hard) do you hear a clunk from the left front of your car? Near the wheel bearing? It only happens for most people during the launch, but nobody knows what it is.
-Cyrus
-Cyrus
08-13-2003, 06:01 AM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 155
Originally posted by Vyrus
Lots of people have this problem (if yours is the one I'm thinking about), there was a thread about it 3 months back. When you're stopped and then launch(no matter how hard) do you hear a clunk from the left front of your car? Near the wheel bearing? It only happens for most people during the launch, but nobody knows what it is.
-Cyrus
Lots of people have this problem (if yours is the one I'm thinking about), there was a thread about it 3 months back. When you're stopped and then launch(no matter how hard) do you hear a clunk from the left front of your car? Near the wheel bearing? It only happens for most people during the launch, but nobody knows what it is.
-Cyrus
08-13-2003, 07:17 PM
#14
I have had this noise and can feel it through the peddles as well. If I bounce the front end really hard, I can replicate the noise but it's hard to tell where it's coming from. It is NOT from the spring/strut assembly but some lower suspension component. Well today, I had some free time so went under the car to look around. Everything looks fine! Not a single thing looks amiss. Since I get this only on the drivers side, I took some belt dressing spray and sprayed every bushing/joint in site and the noise was completely gone. A test drive demonstrated NO more pop/clunk/crunching noises. I'm pretty sure it must be one of the bushings but don't know which one. The control arm bushing looks fine. The FSB bushings also look fine. I know the belt dressing is only a temporary fix--I honestly feel a bushing is worn and I'm getting metal-metal noises.
08-13-2003, 07:21 PM
#15
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Looks like this is a more common problem that needs a fix! I know I won't be able to live with it. I will however find a fix. It might take some time though. Thanks everybody for your input. I'll keep you guys updated.
08-24-2003, 03:50 PM
#16
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Alright guys/gals...
It looks like I fixed the noise and the vibration issue!!
I've replaced the strut mount isolators and the FSB main bushings. The isolators are the key players in the solution. The rubber on the old ones was very hard and compressed. Also make sure you tighten all the bolts and nuts to the appropriate torque specs. You'll be suprised how much vibration you'll get from over torqued nuts in anything suspension related especially the lug nuts! I'll post an update in a few weeks to let you know if noise comes back
It looks like I fixed the noise and the vibration issue!!
I've replaced the strut mount isolators and the FSB main bushings. The isolators are the key players in the solution. The rubber on the old ones was very hard and compressed. Also make sure you tighten all the bolts and nuts to the appropriate torque specs. You'll be suprised how much vibration you'll get from over torqued nuts in anything suspension related especially the lug nuts! I'll post an update in a few weeks to let you know if noise comes back
08-28-2003, 07:29 AM
#18
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It's the piece where the piston goes through and the piston nut goes in. It's keyed for the piston as njmax... pointed out. However, that might not be the case for everybody. When you push down on the front of you car looking under the hood, the piston should move up and down about a 1/4 of an inch when the isolators are in good condition. If the piston doesn't move that much, that could mean that the rubber became too hard and is no longer in good working condition.
Good luck
Good luck
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