Colonel

OK...I have ALWAYS used anti-sieze compound (on no-aluminum heads). But in y2kse's write up he said to apply a "thin, and I mean thin" film of it. Reference thread on Spark plugs info

Which brings up the point...how thin is thin? I put "some" on my finger and then roll the plugs threads around my finger until I have "covered" 3/4 of the threads with the goop. To much? Not enough?

Also, applying to much anti sieze does what? Allows plug not be tq'd correctly or back out?

KINGMAX

sounds about right, I did about the same thing. I am not sure what too much would do...I guess it would possibly cause the plugs to loosen some

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

I cant give you a technically answer on this one, I dont use any anti-sieze because I dont have any (crap, i need lock-tite, nm). I wouldnt worry about it. As long as your tightening your plugs down the proper way, the only thing antisieze does its what it says it does, it prevents the parts from siezeing.

ejj

iTrader: (5)

I don't use any antisieze, and I also under-torque my plugs. I just put them in, and tighten them as much as I can without a ratchet. Just hand tight using socket extensions.

Never had a problem.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I used it. Is there any chance that they'll loosen over time??

Y2KSESteve

iTrader: (22)

I cover about ¾ of the threads with anti-seize.

Colonel

What are the supposed bug-a-boos about anti_sieze?

I have "always" used it and never experienced a percieved problem with it.

Seems like Steve and I use 3/4 thread application treatement....can we get more "fact" as to why people dont use it? If you replace your plugs every 6 months...I could maybe see why...but others?

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

You really don't use a ratchet? You must have the grip of a gorilla.

We're talking about spark plugs, here, Eric, not oil filters.

You might want to reconsider not using a ratchet. A spark plug that isn't seated good and tight conducts heat away from the electrode at a lower rate than a tight plug. For boosted operation where you are running at the ragged edge of detonation/preignition, you want to be sure your plugs aren't turning into hot spots.

ejj

iTrader: (5)

Guess it would be a good idea. I figure I can get them to about 15-20ft-lbs, which IIRC isn't far off spec. Typically I need a ratchet to get them back out though.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

You can put 15-20 ft-lbs of torque into a socket extension with your bare hand? You're an animal! Or are you using a nut-driver?

ejj

iTrader: (5)

I don't know that...just guestimating. It takes at least 20ft-lbs to get the plugs out, but they could "bind" in there over time.

I suppose I should get them a tad tighter.

00MaxSE

iTrader: (25)

Gorilla, animal...

sryth

I never use the stuff, and I've never had a problem.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

If you change your spark plugs fairly regularly, then galvanic corrosion between the steel plug and aluminum head (or rust between a steel plug and iron head) does not have time to occur and there's no real need to use it. If you're the kind of guy who changes plugs every 120,000 miles, though, it can save a lot of headache.

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

I just put a big glop on the threads then I take a terry cloth towel and I use that to spread it around. It puts a thin layer on the threads and it shoves a little bit of it in the inside of the threads.

T-bone

iTrader: (1)

A lil' dab will do ya.

You only need to lightly cover the threads.