97MaxGurl

iTrader: (17)

Last night my car wouldn't start when I turn igition key. When we directly tapped the starter from battery terminal, it would keep cranking but wouldn't start.

We checked ground, fuses, connection, battery..
Looks like my starter just went bad (would just keep spinning)

I just spoke to Conrad (fellow .org member), who also has the same remote start/alarm system (Viper 791xv) and had recently needed to replace his battery, then shortly after his starter went bad too.

Could it be a coincidence or no? Does having remote start feature significantly shorten starter life?

Any feedback from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

AnGe

hockeyghst

hey,

i have a viper remote start as well (not sure of the model) and my starter took and is taking a **** on me now. when i first had a problem with my starter it was when i tried starting the car from the remote and all i heard was a click pause click. then i tried starting it with the key and i got the same thing noise. click click click. i got one of my friends and i told him to start the car while i tapped on the starter with a hammer and then my car finally started.

so i just figured it was a bad starter. i replaced it and got a new one. the new one worked good with the remote start for about 6 months. now i have the same starter and it never works with the remote start. and occasionally i will get the same problem when i use the key. the starter just clicks (i think thats whats clicking) ive checked all my wires for the remote start and everythign seems to be working fine. my doors will lock and unlock when i use the viper button, but when i try to start it with the viper buttons, nothing.


Tom

UncleMax98

Nissan starter is just not high quality. Mine is a 98 and it went bad, too. Seems like they use low quality grease. When I regreased mine, the mechanical was very good condition.

Capital15

iTrader: (45)

I agree on the quality of the startes on our cars. I have a 95 and I had to change mine three times!

97MaxGurl

iTrader: (17)

Looks like the issues related to remote starter affect more people that I realized. I wish I was made aware of these potential problems before I got the remote start.

There should be a disclaimer that read: if you have weak starter, don't bother getting remote start installed, otherwise your starter will be dead within months.

hockeyghst: I had the same problem last night.

Warm car in cold winter vs. prolonging starter life

-AnGe

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Interesting you would post this thread, cause I've been thinking the exact same thing the last couple days. I have a Clifford RS3 w/remote start hooked up. I had the alarm installed about 6 months ago, but didn't start having problems starting until it got cold.

My mechanic was having trouble getting info from his scanner, so he thought the problem was related to the computer. I finally took the car to the stealership, and they said my starter was bad. It should be ready by Friday. I'll try and post my results.

Jepht20

iTrader: (10)

won't you guys get a decent deal from the stealership since there is a problem with these starters? i thought i read a thread that mentioned they offer big money off cuz of the known problem...goodluck fixing! i was thinking of getting one after christmas but have that weird starter noise during the cold like it needs to be regreased. maybe i should wait...

jmax

Ange, cranking but not starting doesn't sound like the starter. It actually sounds exactly what I have had since Monday afternoon. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=266195
I noticed with the Responder alarm that I have about a 0.45 amp current drain with engine and all accessories off. That is about 10 times greater than recommended for proper battery maintenance. If it turns out that my battery is bad I will look into getting a small "alarm only" battery and low resistance isolation method. My battery still tests okay with the engine off despite trying to start the car 20-30 times. But I couldn't load test it since I didn't have anyone to crank the engine while I was at the battery.

As for the Nissan starter I also read numerous times that it isn't very reliable. I would look into the mean-grean.com starter since they have about a 300,000 mile warranty.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Remote start has nothing to do with starter life. The fact is you start your car a few times a day. Wheather it's done manually with the key or remotely makes no difference. The starter acts the same way and sees the same load.

AnGe, it doesn't sound like it's your starter thats your problem. A crank with no start usually means a Cam or Crank Position Sensor has failed.

If it does turn out to be your starter there's a shop around the corner from my shop that rebuilds starters, alternators ect. My cost is usually around 40 bucks. If you have the time, drop it off to me and I'll have it rebuilt for you.

nupe500

iTrader: (13)

Again...oh wise Tom...speaks

Vic

its your alarm or some electrical draw.
if it's clicking then try jumping your battery. deep cycle batteries can be recharged quite a few times.
if you really think its the starter try wacking it with the head of a screwdriver...usually that will bring it back to life till it's really dead
and yes... remote starters and transponders all drain the **** out of any car batteries including deep cycles ones.
gimme a buzz
Vic

jmax

Mine like Ange's isn't clicking. It's getting a full, normal crank. It's either emmisions, ignition or fuel.

EZEMaxima

I also have a Viper 550 w/ remote start and i just recently replaced my starter. But mine was going bad for awhile before it died on me.....When my starter died, all i got was just a click. I even thought it was just my batteries, but i got my battery charger out and charged both of my battery real good and it's still the same. I tried tapping my starter with a hammer and it sort of crank a little then it wouldn't do it again. Decided to remove my starter and i took it apart, it smelled burnt. That's when i decided to buy a new one.

Redmax

iTrader: (20)

All remote start does is intercept your starter signal to your ecu and ingnition switch which has nothing to do withthe mechanicals of your starter!!!

scmaxima2k

iTrader: (3)

wow i havent had any of these problems with my Viper 791XV. Ive had it installed since June and its been working fine, no starter trouble and no dead batteries. I use the remote start quite frequently and my car has been sitting for over a month until this week when I came home from school and took it for a drive. Car started right up, I do have an optima yellow top.



-Steve

Matt_NZ

I just recently had a problem with the starter on my 97 max just a few weeks ago. In the car, the motor wouldn't even try and crank the car, out of the car how ever with out the load of the motor, it appeared to work fine. So, after some phoning around, the cheapest option was to take the starter motor into an Auto Electrician who regreased and replaced the bearings in it and returned it back good as new. All for a charge of NZ$250 (around US$125). Beats a brand new starter motor for around NZ$700 (about US$350). It did last a while, 237,000 Km's, not that bad, but I don't really know how long a starter motor should last for, lol.

97MaxGurl

iTrader: (17)

replaced starter on Wednesday.. got CEL.. car starts but not consistantly

it would crank but motor won't start ever single time.

We tried to perform diagnostic but cannot read anything.. wtf

I then pulled code the old fashion way and got a bunch of error codes:
08 03 Manifold absolute pressure sensor or circuit fault
13 02 Manifold absolute pressure solenoid valve or circuit fault
07 02 Catalyst system fault (right)
08 02 Crankshaft position sensor or circuit fault

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

when i defined the ecu codes 0803, 0802, and 1302 were some of hte ones i could not define and had to put hte search link, so there is little info on those codes


0702
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0702 points to a problem with the three-way Catalytic Converter.

The Cat is one of the principal components of the emissions control system. The Engine Control Module monitors the signals from the two front Oxygen Sensors and the one rear Oxygen Sensor. The signal frequency of each sensor indicates something about the condition of that sensor. A comparison of the frequency of the front sensors with the rear sensor indicates something about the condition of the Cat.

This malfunction was detected when the ratio of the signal frequency from the right bank front Oxygen Sensor to the signal frequency of the rear Oxygen Sensor exceeded a critical threshold value. This indicates that the Cat does not have enough oxygen storage capacity. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5. Possible causes of this DTC include ...
- Three-way catalyst
- Exhaust tube
- Intake air leaks
- Fuel injectors
- Spark plugs
- Ignition timing

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=njmaxseltd]Remote start has nothing to do with starter life. The fact is you start your car a few times a day. Wheather it's done manually with the key or remotely makes no difference. The starter acts the same way and sees the same load....[QUOTE]

Just to reiterate!!! The truth IS out there!
(it just took Tom to say it...)

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

crank sensor. doesn't know where the crank is and it's not firing.

got a UDP?

97MaxGurl

iTrader: (17)

stock pulley (sp?)

I started the car fine Friday nite.. let it sit at idle for good 10min+. Car didn't shut off by itself or behaved differently.

Unfortunately, I still have CEL on and until we figure out what the problem is, the car isn't leaving the shop (can't afford to get stuck on hwy).

1HOTMAX

iTrader: (1)

starters suck!

i just had the shop change a starter on a acura legend and it took 4 hours, and $500 later, i still have to come back next week to change the spindle on the left axle cause he fu@ked it up getting it out.
auto starts suck. going back to maually start the old fashion way is better.

good luck finding out the problem

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

Jesus, when my starter went bad I got a high torque starter and install took about 20 minutes and cost me $300 ( just for starter, no charge for labor )

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

ugh...nevermind then.

97MaxGurl

iTrader: (17)

that's how I feel right about now

Lonely Driver

I had a problem with my maxima not starting sometimes. The problem was the crank position sensor. There are 2 of them on the maxima - one on the transmission and the other by the crank pulley. I changed the one by the crank pulley and it starts up fine everytime now.

AntGVR4

Want to trade cars ?
Mine hasn't broken down for a whole month

Hopefully your mechanic will figure the problem out soon.

Ant

SXN

usually when it clicks that means a battery issue. the starter problem would cause it to not turn over at all, or to turn over with very little torque. Broken starter wouldn't cause that long list of problems

Y2KSESteve

iTrader: (22)

I highly doubt it's the battery. A buddy of mine has a Viper with remote start on his '99 maxima and his starter just went out as well..

SXN

but if it was a starter problem, why would she get all those codes? Also Steve, why would it even turn over if the starter was blown? also, explain WHY the remote start would hurt the starter...

KFL

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure if you got a chance to open up the old starter to inspect for any damage or just turned in the core. I took my friend's starter out and apart had problems with hesitating starts at times. Took it apart found that the armature had about 3 gashes in it..its getting replaced since it will eventually go out the way it looks tres nasty. A simple voltage drop test would also negate the starter/battery being the culprit. Crankshaft position sensor or circuit fault somewhere

lcf

iTrader: (6)

I think my Autopage remote starter has been on my car for 2 years now? Got it two summers ago. Still on my stock battery and stock starter. I do get a tach-sensing problem sometimes, the remote starter will cause the car to crank for much longer than normal.

Overcranking can cause the starter to fail eventually... or I'd think?

SXN

i dont see why. over cracking just causes it to crank for a little bit longer...so it would be like starting the car a couple more times. unless your engine caught and FORCED the started to turn. that could mess it up

97MaxGurl

iTrader: (17)

Maxima is running again. Every crank is a start. CEL light is off without me resetting it However, I still get a weird sound from the engine bay shortly after the car cranks. I've haven't had time to get the weird noise checked out since I've been driving the car bet. Upstate NY and Central NJ this past week.

The starter was definitely done and had to be replaced.
Could it be the remote start? That's still up in the air. Only a theory without concrete evidence from either side of the argument.

I sincerely appreciate everyone's reply on the post..

AnGe

SXN

best thing i can think of for that weird noise is the starter over cranks. the engine catches and starts and gives the starter an extra little shove, and they kind of fight against each others torque, then the starter disengages. and yes that COULD be caused by your remote start

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Well, here's my response. I had the starter replaced, and for a day or so the car started up REALLY well. Much better than before. However, after sitting outside after a cold night it didn't start again. I took it back to the dealership, and they ran every electrical test, but were unable to find a single problem. They now blame my alarm for it, since they can't find anything else. What should I do now? I don't want to take it all the way down to the guy who did my alarm and have the car not start. BTW, my Clifford has been disabled for about 3 months now because the remote stopped working. Could this have anything to do with it?

subs1000w

well if it has starter kill hooked up and the conection isnt soldered well enogh it could have to high of resistance and not kick over the starter seloniod to start the car. you should take it to who ever installed it and make them check the starter kill wires and maybe resolder them just to be sure. its also posible that they didnt solder them at all and used butt conectors which is a no no for those 2 conections because they handle a good bit of current