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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 04:09 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
W/O any mods a VE 5-sp is having to shift right about the low-mid 90s. With mods and my JWT ecu, I'm into the 100+ range at 7100-7200 rpm. Point is the engine is no longer struggling at the mid-90 mph. It's still pulling right near redline. So while a 4-gen is running out of breath and not pulling, he's gotta shift. I'm still pulling and can wait and grab my gear that much later.
I agree, I'm usually shifting into 4th at about 6,500rpms indicated, which is about 95mph. Nissan's 'trusty' tachometer will let me go all the way to an indicated 6,700rpms@105mph in 3rd though, although there is no point as the car is falling off its powerband.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 04:10 PM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by Dave B
Even IRS won't give you a smooth ride over bumpy pavement. The 4th/5th geners that complain about the bumpy surface handling are typically the ones also running aftermarket sway bars on their lowered suspensions. Bumpy surface, lowered suspension, aftermarket swaybar = suspension bind in the turns and you'll get a rocking motion over the bumps. The beam basically can't do it's job. My car is quite good over bumpy surfaces in fast turns. I've never had the rear end step out on me or feel "loose".
I complained and mine was stock. It got worst once the miles were put on the shocks.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 04:42 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by Dave B
Even IRS won't give you a smooth ride over bumpy pavement. The 4th/5th geners that complain about the bumpy surface handling are typically the ones also running aftermarket sway bars on their lowered suspensions. Bumpy surface, lowered suspension, aftermarket swaybar = suspension bind in the turns and you'll get a rocking motion over the bumps. The beam basically can't do it's job. My car is quite good over bumpy surfaces in fast turns. I've never had the rear end step out on me or feel "loose".
Your right, the rear beam in the Max isnt as bad as many make it out to be from what they have read and not experienced. I can tell the improvements they did to it for the 5th gen vs the 4th gen although quite apparently. Also my old 97 handled much better stock than my 89 did when it was new and my old 93 SE I had.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 04:58 PM
  #244  
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Hmmm... didn't the 4th gen outslalom and outgrip the 3rd gen SE when it first came out??
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 05:03 PM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by nismology
Hmmm... didn't the 4th gen outslalom and outgrip the 3rd gen SE when it first came out??
nope. the SE did, but it could be cause of the 1" taller and a wider rim with better OEM offered tires. Which mean everything in slalom and gripping.

Dave, your car seems to be a dream, it doesn nothing wrong, no creaks, no bumpiness it accelerates all sounds like you have a real keeper there.



I have drove a few stock VE 5 speeds and the pull harder than a **** from 75-105mph.

Ask Aaron what the race from 75+ was like vs. my 5 speed VE compared to my 5 speed VQ.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 05:19 PM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Don't know about that. Regardless of what the article says, numerous 4-geners complain about the handling over bumpy surfaces. Where the 3-genners don't complain at all.
IRS handles better over bumpy surfaces. MLB handles better over smooth surfaces. Summer tires handle better in the summer. Winter tires handle better in the winter.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 05:29 PM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by VQuick
IRS handles better over bumpy surfaces. MLB handles better over smooth surfaces. Summer tires handle better in the summer. Winter tires handle better in the winter.
So you are saying that IRS doesnt handle good on smooth surfaces? lol


Old Oct 27, 2004 | 07:00 PM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by dmontzmax
Ask Aaron what the race from 75+ was like vs. my 5 speed VE compared to my 5 speed VQ.
I'm in TOTAL agreement when it comes to saying that the VE has better top end. Donald's VE 5spd with 280K miles easily pulls on his VQ 5spd above 75mph. No contest! The same thing can be proven against my car in the top of my 3rd gear (above 110mph).
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 07:25 PM
  #249  
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if the beam is such an "Evil monstrousity" why is it the Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V handles so well with its beam suspension. pulling .92G's on the skidpad and over 70MPH in the solam. there is nothing wrong with the beam if you set up the suspension right, some nice springs and struts and a rear sway bar is all it takes. so the Beam is not really a big issue. Secondly while my car is the ability to do 140MPH, i do go to 100-120 every once in a while but low end power is what i crave that is why nissan designed the VQ with the mid range punch they did.this whole my car does 103mph in 3rd is kinda silly. i am more of a drag racing kinda guy and most of us are.

i have searched the 3rd gen forums and i am just curious what does a 3rd gen VE with Ypipe,intake and exhaust do in the 1/4 mile.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 07:31 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by zack342
i do go to 100-120 every once in a while but low end power is what i crave that is why nissan designed the VQ with the mid range punch they did.this whole my car does 103mph in 3rd is kinda silly. i am more of a drag racing kinda guy and most of us are.

i have searched the 3rd gen forums and i am just curious what does a 3rd gen VE with Ypipe,intake and exhaust do in the 1/4 mile.
Drag racing is ALL about what kind of overall power you have, INCLUDING TOP END. So, your statement makes no sense since it's applying that drag racing only uses low/mid range power.

A VE 5spd with those mods does the same as a VQ 5spd in the 1/4 mile with those mods... just maybe a tenth or two slower assuming if the VQ 5spd driver is able to actually put that low end power to the ground.

Also, I realize all this information you're are talking about is coming from a guy that thinks a Nismo Radiator Cap made his car faster.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 07:40 PM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by dmontzmax
nope. the SE did, but it could be cause of the 1" taller and a wider rim with better OEM offered tires. Which mean everything in slalom and gripping.

Dave, your car seems to be a dream, it doesn nothing wrong, no creaks, no bumpiness it accelerates all sounds like you have a real keeper there.



I have drove a few stock VE 5 speeds and the pull harder than a **** from 75-105mph.

Ask Aaron what the race from 75+ was like vs. my 5 speed VE compared to my 5 speed VQ.
bah, I dont think Dave is going to agree unless dyno results support it
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 07:57 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Swaybars don't cause the suspension to bind Dave. Maybe in a 4-gen but not on a IRS 3-gen
When the mounting points of the aftermarket swaybar are on the trailing arms themselves (which bend under load), they do cause bind.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 08:08 PM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by dmontzmax
nope. the SE did, but it could be cause of the 1" taller and a wider rim with better OEM offered tires. Which mean everything in slalom and gripping.
1" taller and wider rim? 215/60R15 H-rated tires on 15X6.5 rims is what the 3rd gen runs, no? The 95 SE generated both better slalom and skidpad numbers even on horrible RSAs


Dave, your car seems to be a dream, it doesn nothing wrong, no creaks, no bumpiness it accelerates all sounds like you have a real keeper there.
Lightweight 17" rims, Koni's, H&Rs, and Stage I SFCs and you could have the same thing. The only thing I really don't like about my car is the steering. It's lacks much on center feel, but every Maxima seems to suffer from this problem. Even my cousins 93 SE.

I have drove a few stock VE 5 speeds and the pull harder than a **** from 75-105mph.
I guess it depends on what you consider pulling like a **** is. I can't imagine any NA Maxima knocking my socks off in any acceleration contest. My friends blown 02 GT that does 12.2@116mph is what I'd consider "pulling like a ****" from 75-130mph.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 08:13 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I'm in TOTAL agreement when it comes to saying that the VE has better top end. Donald's VE 5spd with 280K miles easily pulls on his VQ 5spd above 75mph. No contest! The same thing can be proven against my car in the top of my 3rd gear (above 110mph).
I doubt it has nothing to do with those huge boat anchor 18s he has on his 4th gen or the fact that the 3rd gen has more modifications too
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 08:33 PM
  #255  
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Originally Posted by dmontzmax
So you are saying that IRS doesnt handle good on smooth surfaces? lol


I did not say IRS "doesnt handle good" on smooth surfaces; I said MLB handles better.

Why?

MLB = no camber change with body roll.

* * * * *

Further support: I was reading a thread on this on Miata.net, specifically a discussion of the new Mustang's return to a live axle (from IRS, just like the Maxima in 1995). Here's what someone knowledgeable added in the thread:

"The Maxima has a twist-beam rear axle with a Scott-Russell linkage instead of a Panhard rod. For a front-drive car, this works really well. It doesn't have the high unsprung weight of the solid rear axle, and doesn't have the jacking effect of the Panhard rod as the axle moves up and down. It maintains constant camber and there is some independence between the left and right wheels.

The twist beam actually offered higher skidpad and slalom scores than the old independent setup (but note these tests are done on smooth surfaces). The main downside is the handling is not as stable as the older independent setup in hard turns on bumpy roads."

BTW, all this is
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 08:46 PM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Put it this way, I'm in 3rd, over 100mph and will hit the raised 7200 redline still pulling
I know, you showed me once
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 08:53 PM
  #257  
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Originally Posted by Dave B
Even IRS won't give you a smooth ride over bumpy pavement. The 4th/5th geners that complain about the bumpy surface handling are typically the ones also running aftermarket sway bars on their lowered suspensions. Bumpy surface, lowered suspension, aftermarket swaybar = suspension bind in the turns and you'll get a rocking motion over the bumps. The beam basically can't do it's job. My car is quite good over bumpy surfaces in fast turns. I've never had the rear end step out on me or feel "loose".
110% stock 5th gen, cut a 180* turn down in portland at decent speed, rear end jumped and kicked out. Back when mine car was stock with a lazy rear strut it never did that. 5th gen is a pig in the turns, can in no way ever compare to the 3rd gen, end of story.

4th gen beam improvement, yes, in cost as stated before, but I guess since they dropped the whole 4DSC thing, they dropped the need for a suspension setup that could keep up. oh well.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 08:55 PM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Swaybars don't cause the suspension to bind Dave. Maybe in a 4-gen but not on a IRS 3-gen
Sway Bars for our cars are the greatest thing since VTC's. (or any of our other goodies )
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 09:27 PM
  #259  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Drag racing is ALL about what kind of overall power you have, INCLUDING TOP END. So, your statement makes no sense since it's applying that drag racing only uses low/mid range power.

A VE 5spd with those mods does the same as a VQ 5spd in the 1/4 mile with those mods... just maybe a tenth or two slower assuming if the VQ 5spd driver is able to actually put that low end power to the ground.

Also, I realize all this information you're are talking about is coming from a guy that thinks a Nismo Radiator Cap made his car faster.

Yeah for all that top end your car has it made a real big diffrence hence you trapspeed of 93.68 mph. with you 2.1 60ft and drag radials right. i would like to see a VE speed with my mods and its 1/4 mile times i am curious. Radiator cap does make a diffrence i don't know what it is but for $30 it should and if it doesn't i still think it looks cool
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 09:34 PM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by MrGone
Panzy stroke. VQ35, now there is the VE's replacement motor, the VQ30 is more of a "here hold my place in line while I go get some hot chocolate in the middle of winter" motor....

...until you want to go above 6800rpm
What do you mean by the phrase "pansy stroke" and also what do you mean by the 6800rpm thing?
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 10:05 PM
  #261  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
What do you mean by the phrase "pansy stroke" and also what do you mean by the 6800rpm thing?
VQ30's have a smaller stroke than VE's, the VQ didnt get it back until the 35.
Last time I checked, the 99's dont have a JWT avaliable to them, but maybe things have changed?
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 10:13 PM
  #262  
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Originally Posted by zack342
Yeah for all that top end your car has it made a real big diffrence hence you trapspeed of 93.68 mph. with you 2.1 60ft and drag radials right. i would like to see a VE speed with my mods and its 1/4 mile times i am curious. Radiator cap does make a diffrence i don't know what it is but for $30 it should and if it doesn't i still think it looks cool
this thread is getting ridiculous. get over it and stop this sh*t flinging contest.

radiator cap makes a difference but you dont know what it is . maybe us third gen guys are trying to "prove something" but at least most of us know what the parts we buy actually do for the car
maybe i'm stuck in my own little 3rd gen world, but maybe i'm not
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 10:24 PM
  #263  
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Originally Posted by MrGone
VQ30's have a smaller stroke than VE's, the VQ didnt get it back until the 35.
Last time I checked, the 99's dont have a JWT avaliable to them, but maybe things have changed?

That's what I thought you meant about stroke. Actually having a smaller stroke and larger bore is better for power production at higher RPM levels because of lower piston speeds at any given RPM, less stress on things like rod bolts, rods, etc.

And yes you are right there is still no simple plug in ECU for 99s.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 10:36 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by MaDMaX024
this thread is getting ridiculous. get over it and stop this sh*t flinging contest.

radiator cap makes a difference but you dont know what it is . maybe us third gen guys are trying to "prove something" but at least most of us know what the parts we buy actually do for the car
maybe i'm stuck in my own little 3rd gen world, but maybe i'm not
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!

In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 11:05 PM
  #265  
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Is that something you typed up? Or something that you cut and pasted? If so, please provide the link to give credit where credit was due. Aaron's 3rd gen is an automatic, which is why he traps at only 93mph.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 11:10 PM
  #266  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
That's what I thought you meant about stroke. Actually having a smaller stroke and larger bore is better for power production at higher RPM levels because of lower piston speeds at any given RPM, less stress on things like rod bolts, rods, etc.

And yes you are right there is still no simple plug in ECU for 99s.
Normally thats the rule. But the VQ's intake manifold and cams were developed to produce low-mid range TQ without a big sacrifice in high-end compared to the VE. SteVTEC has SAE documents of how Nissan over came the large bore over stroke to produce low-end power, one of which was aerodynamic intake ports IIRC.
Old Oct 27, 2004 | 11:59 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by zack342
Yeah for all that top end your car has it made a real big diffrence hence you trapspeed of 93.68 mph. with you 2.1 60ft and drag radials right. i would like to see a VE speed with my mods and its 1/4 mile times i am curious. Radiator cap does make a diffrence i don't know what it is but for $30 it should and if it doesn't i still think it looks cool
You my friend are one of the biggest *******es in the world if you actually begin to THINK your car goes faster due to a Nismo radiator cap, do yourself a favor and forget you ever said that and dont tell anyone K?
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 01:21 AM
  #268  
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Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!

In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
LMAO, where did you copy and paste that from?

Are you incapable of having an intelligent argument without losing your temper? Who cares if you have a degree? Show it to whoever you want, nobody cares.

If you cannot contribute anything to this conversation that is logical/factual like Dave, Jeff, MrGone, etc are, then /yourself. You've never even seen/driven a VE, so why are you even arguing about it? I'll at least look at Dave's arguments because I know that he's at least seen them in action. You on the other hand, just behave like you are a 15 year old.
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 02:22 AM
  #269  
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Originally Posted by ScreamingVE
Normally thats the rule. But the VQ's intake manifold and cams were developed to produce low-mid range TQ without a big sacrifice in high-end compared to the VE. SteVTEC has SAE documents of how Nissan over came the large bore over stroke to produce low-end power, one of which was aerodynamic intake ports IIRC.
yeah, but what doesnt make alot of sense is why Nissan did that, why not use a larger stroke from the start? oh well, they still did a good job













with what they had to work with
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 02:49 AM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!

In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
That's great that you know all that and all, but can you tell me what your radiator's pressure rating is. Also dont you think Nissan has done a good ammount of R&D on this and has found a suitable solution from the factory? Also excessive pressures can cause premature wear on the water pump and gaskets.

Surely if you know all that, you also know that engines are designed to run within a specific temp, more or less results in excessive engine wear.

In reality it's nothing worth arguing about, its not going to do jack in real world situations. You wanna spend $35+ on a radiator cap, thats fine, personally I'd rather spend that money on ES LCA Bushings or something else.
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 03:05 AM
  #271  
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what would you say auto vs auto 99with slipping tranny mods are y-pipe, cold air intake, full 2.5" exhaust cat back vs the same 3rd gen se 93. I smoked the crap outa him off the line and on the high way, with a failing tranny, my car is barley going into the 15's its so bad. Every time I brought it to the track it would loose .1 or .2 seconds. that was about 4 months ago, cant mess with the vq its a work of art, vs the old iron block of death and weight, but 3rd gens have something we dont there motors are literally bullet proof cause of all the imitaion alluminum(prolly gonna get my as$ handed to me for saying that) Dont diss the 4th gen, we didnt say crap about your rust buckets, you guys started it and like its not cool that maxima people are arguing about something so freking stupid. (ahhh relief) STOP THIS MADNESSS AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 03:17 AM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by KLoWnPR109
LMAO, where did you copy and paste that from?

Are you incapable of having an intelligent argument without losing your temper? Who cares if you have a degree? Show it to whoever you want, nobody cares.

If you cannot contribute anything to this conversation that is logical/factual like Dave, Jeff, MrGone, etc are, then /yourself. You've never even seen/driven a VE, so why are you even arguing about it? I'll at least look at Dave's arguments because I know that he's at least seen them in action. You on the other hand, just behave like you are a 15 year old.
Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!

In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_2.htm

I am not sure why he needed a degree in Mechanical Engineering to copy and paste someone elses sales pitch.
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 04:40 AM
  #273  
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From: Tunasea
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
what would you say auto vs auto 99with slipping tranny mods are y-pipe, cold air intake, full 2.5" exhaust cat back vs the same 3rd gen se 93. I smoked the crap outa him off the line and on the high way, with a failing tranny, my car is barley going into the 15's its so bad. Every time I brought it to the track it would loose .1 or .2 seconds. that was about 4 months ago, cant mess with the vq its a work of art, vs the old iron block of death and weight, but 3rd gens have something we dont there motors are literally bullet proof cause of all the imitaion alluminum(prolly gonna get my as$ handed to me for saying that) Dont diss the 4th gen, we didnt say crap about your rust buckets, you guys started it and like its not cool that maxima people are arguing about something so freking stupid. (ahhh relief) STOP THIS MADNESSS AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
agreed
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 06:24 AM
  #274  
MaDMaX024's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,106
Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!

In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.

i already knew what it did, i have a good understanding of the cooling system. i see "you" mentioned the radiator an awful lot of times in that statement, but where did i? i said heater core .
if you have a degree in mechanical engineering why did you state that you didnt know what difference it made? no i'm not interested in seeing anyone's degree in anything. why? because i dont care that much.
if you just wrote that, then why is "we" used?
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 07:14 AM
  #275  
dmontzsta's Avatar
Ford Only.
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Posts: 10,598
From: SoCal
Good Morning!

Anyone know where I can buy a Nismo radiator, oil and gas cap? I heard it shaves about .20 in the 1/4.
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 07:28 AM
  #276  
NmexMAX's Avatar
dot dot dot ...
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Posts: 34,576
From: Santa Fe, NM
Quite the thread we've got here.

My thoughts. So therefore, this is all IMO.


3rd gen VE, great car for it's day, same performance as the VQ, but modding VQ (MEVI etc) gives a slight edge for the VQ, but not stock for stock, as the VE has a VI, and the 3rd gen is slightly heavier.

3rd gen IRS, nuff said, why they went to milti-link beam, beyond me, I like IRS better.

3rd gen was more advanced in some areas (suspension/variable intake, VTC) in stock form than the 4th gen even though it came out before, though the 4th gen is more popular due to it's looks.

I think dmontz has the best perspective on this topic because he's had both. . .

But this is my .02
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 07:54 AM
  #277  
Loe max's Avatar
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Posts: 4,269
From: sarasota FL
Originally Posted by MrGone
yeah, but what doesnt make alot of sense is why Nissan did that, why not use a larger stroke from the start? oh well, they still did a good job













with what they had to work with
You have to keep in mind that the VQ wasn't just used in the US
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 01:15 PM
  #278  
MrGone's Avatar
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Posts: 40,646
From: 127.0.0.1
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
the old iron block of death


Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
we didnt say crap about your rust buckets
I wouldnt be surprised to find our cars being made out of a thicker gauge steel than the 4th gen. Rust eh? Well decent paint from the factory will go a long way in helping prevent that. @ Nissan Paint Law Suit
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
you guys started it
Thread created by: Naijai
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 01:36 PM
  #279  
KLoWnPR109's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,515
From: Irving, TX
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
what would you say auto vs auto 99with slipping tranny mods are y-pipe, cold air intake, full 2.5" exhaust cat back vs the same 3rd gen se 93. I smoked the crap outa him off the line and on the high way, with a failing tranny, my car is barley going into the 15's its so bad. Every time I brought it to the track it would loose .1 or .2 seconds. that was about 4 months ago, cant mess with the vq its a work of art, vs the old iron block of death and weight, but 3rd gens have something we dont there motors are literally bullet proof cause of all the imitaion alluminum(prolly gonna get my as$ handed to me for saying that) Dont diss the 4th gen, we didnt say crap about your rust buckets, you guys started it and like its not cool that maxima people are arguing about something so freking stupid. (ahhh relief) STOP THIS MADNESSS AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Kinda hard to see any logic in what you just wrote considering that you have the following kill list on your cardomain.

Cars I Beat List
1 Civic All Types and most years.
2 Integras 5SPD (All Except Type R)
3 Camry All Types
4 Sentra 5SPD
5 Audi A6
6 VW Passat Turbo
7 Audi A4
8 Jetta
9 Mustang GT
10 Camraro Z28
11 Accord V6 all Generation
(Except for the New ones, I have yet to find one that I can race Against)
12 Focus
13 Neon
14 Cavalier
15 240SX

Victims Comming
1 Type R Integra
2 Any one Else
Old Oct 28, 2004 | 04:07 PM
  #280  
Viscous's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 834
Originally Posted by KLoWnPR109
Kinda hard to see any logic in what you just wrote considering that you have the following kill list on your cardomain.

Cars I Beat List
1 Civic All Types and most years.
2 Integras 5SPD (All Except Type R)
3 Camry All Types
4 Sentra 5SPD
5 Audi A6
6 VW Passat Turbo
7 Audi A4
8 Jetta
9 Mustang GT
10 Camraro Z28
11 Accord V6 all Generation
(Except for the New ones, I have yet to find one that I can race Against)
12 Focus
13 Neon
14 Cavalier
15 240SX

Victims Comming
1 Type R Integra
2 Any one Else

haha, you sure know how to dig up the dirt and rub the salt into a festering wound.



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