3rd gen vs 4th gen
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
W/O any mods a VE 5-sp is having to shift right about the low-mid 90s. With mods and my JWT ecu, I'm into the 100+ range at 7100-7200 rpm. Point is the engine is no longer struggling at the mid-90 mph. It's still pulling right near redline. So while a 4-gen is running out of breath and not pulling, he's gotta shift. I'm still pulling and can wait and grab my gear that much later.
Originally Posted by Dave B
Even IRS won't give you a smooth ride over bumpy pavement. The 4th/5th geners that complain about the bumpy surface handling are typically the ones also running aftermarket sway bars on their lowered suspensions. Bumpy surface, lowered suspension, aftermarket swaybar = suspension bind in the turns and you'll get a rocking motion over the bumps. The beam basically can't do it's job. My car is quite good over bumpy surfaces in fast turns. I've never had the rear end step out on me or feel "loose".
and mine was stock. It got worst once the miles were put on the shocks.
Originally Posted by Dave B
Even IRS won't give you a smooth ride over bumpy pavement. The 4th/5th geners that complain about the bumpy surface handling are typically the ones also running aftermarket sway bars on their lowered suspensions. Bumpy surface, lowered suspension, aftermarket swaybar = suspension bind in the turns and you'll get a rocking motion over the bumps. The beam basically can't do it's job. My car is quite good over bumpy surfaces in fast turns. I've never had the rear end step out on me or feel "loose".
Originally Posted by nismology
Hmmm... didn't the 4th gen outslalom and outgrip the 3rd gen SE when it first came out??

Dave, your car seems to be a dream, it doesn nothing wrong, no creaks, no bumpiness it accelerates all sounds like you have a real keeper there.
I have drove a few stock VE 5 speeds and the pull harder than a **** from 75-105mph.
Ask Aaron what the race from 75+ was like vs. my 5 speed VE compared to my 5 speed VQ.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Don't know about that. Regardless of what the article says, numerous 4-geners complain about the handling over bumpy surfaces. Where the 3-genners don't complain at all.
Originally Posted by VQuick
IRS handles better over bumpy surfaces. MLB handles better over smooth surfaces. Summer tires handle better in the summer. Winter tires handle better in the winter.
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
Ask Aaron what the race from 75+ was like vs. my 5 speed VE compared to my 5 speed VQ. 

if the beam is such an "Evil monstrousity" why is it the Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V handles so well with its beam suspension. pulling .92G's on the skidpad and over 70MPH in the solam. there is nothing wrong with the beam if you set up the suspension right, some nice springs and struts and a rear sway bar is all it takes. so the Beam is not really a big issue. Secondly while my car is the ability to do 140MPH, i do go to 100-120 every once in a while but low end power is what i crave that is why nissan designed the VQ with the mid range punch they did.this whole my car does 103mph in 3rd is kinda silly. i am more of a drag racing kinda guy and most of us are.
i have searched the 3rd gen forums and i am just curious what does a 3rd gen VE with Ypipe,intake and exhaust do in the 1/4 mile.
i have searched the 3rd gen forums and i am just curious what does a 3rd gen VE with Ypipe,intake and exhaust do in the 1/4 mile.
Originally Posted by zack342
i do go to 100-120 every once in a while but low end power is what i crave that is why nissan designed the VQ with the mid range punch they did.this whole my car does 103mph in 3rd is kinda silly. i am more of a drag racing kinda guy and most of us are.
i have searched the 3rd gen forums and i am just curious what does a 3rd gen VE with Ypipe,intake and exhaust do in the 1/4 mile.
i have searched the 3rd gen forums and i am just curious what does a 3rd gen VE with Ypipe,intake and exhaust do in the 1/4 mile.
A VE 5spd with those mods does the same as a VQ 5spd in the 1/4 mile with those mods... just maybe a tenth or two slower assuming if the VQ 5spd driver is able to actually put that low end power to the ground.
Also, I realize all this information you're are talking about is coming from a guy that thinks a Nismo Radiator Cap made his car faster.
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
nope. the SE did, but it could be cause of the 1" taller and a wider rim with better OEM offered tires. Which mean everything in slalom and gripping.
Dave, your car seems to be a dream, it doesn nothing wrong, no creaks, no bumpiness it accelerates all sounds like you have a real keeper there.
I have drove a few stock VE 5 speeds and the pull harder than a **** from 75-105mph.
Ask Aaron what the race from 75+ was like vs. my 5 speed VE compared to my 5 speed VQ.
Dave, your car seems to be a dream, it doesn nothing wrong, no creaks, no bumpiness it accelerates all sounds like you have a real keeper there.
I have drove a few stock VE 5 speeds and the pull harder than a **** from 75-105mph.
Ask Aaron what the race from 75+ was like vs. my 5 speed VE compared to my 5 speed VQ.

Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Swaybars don't cause the suspension to bind Dave. Maybe in a 4-gen but not on a IRS 3-gen
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
nope. the SE did, but it could be cause of the 1" taller and a wider rim with better OEM offered tires. Which mean everything in slalom and gripping.
Dave, your car seems to be a dream, it doesn nothing wrong, no creaks, no bumpiness it accelerates all sounds like you have a real keeper there.
I have drove a few stock VE 5 speeds and the pull harder than a **** from 75-105mph.
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I'm in TOTAL agreement when it comes to saying that the VE has better top end. Donald's VE 5spd with 280K miles easily pulls on his VQ 5spd above 75mph. No contest! The same thing can be proven against my car in the top of my 3rd gear (above 110mph).
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
So you are saying that IRS doesnt handle good on smooth surfaces? lol


Why?
MLB = no camber change with body roll.
* * * * *
Further support: I was reading a thread on this on Miata.net, specifically a discussion of the new Mustang's return to a live axle (from IRS, just like the Maxima in 1995). Here's what someone knowledgeable added in the thread:
"The Maxima has a twist-beam rear axle with a Scott-Russell linkage instead of a Panhard rod. For a front-drive car, this works really well. It doesn't have the high unsprung weight of the solid rear axle, and doesn't have the jacking effect of the Panhard rod as the axle moves up and down. It maintains constant camber and there is some independence between the left and right wheels.
The twist beam actually offered higher skidpad and slalom scores than the old independent setup (but note these tests are done on smooth surfaces). The main downside is the handling is not as stable as the older independent setup in hard turns on bumpy roads."
BTW, all this is
Originally Posted by Dave B
Even IRS won't give you a smooth ride over bumpy pavement. The 4th/5th geners that complain about the bumpy surface handling are typically the ones also running aftermarket sway bars on their lowered suspensions. Bumpy surface, lowered suspension, aftermarket swaybar = suspension bind in the turns and you'll get a rocking motion over the bumps. The beam basically can't do it's job. My car is quite good over bumpy surfaces in fast turns. I've never had the rear end step out on me or feel "loose".
4th gen beam improvement, yes, in cost as stated before, but I guess since they dropped the whole 4DSC thing, they dropped the need for a suspension setup that could keep up. oh well.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Swaybars don't cause the suspension to bind Dave. Maybe in a 4-gen but not on a IRS 3-gen
)
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Drag racing is ALL about what kind of overall power you have, INCLUDING TOP END. So, your statement makes no sense since it's applying that drag racing only uses low/mid range power.
A VE 5spd with those mods does the same as a VQ 5spd in the 1/4 mile with those mods... just maybe a tenth or two slower assuming if the VQ 5spd driver is able to actually put that low end power to the ground.
Also, I realize all this information you're are talking about is coming from a guy that thinks a Nismo Radiator Cap made his car faster.
A VE 5spd with those mods does the same as a VQ 5spd in the 1/4 mile with those mods... just maybe a tenth or two slower assuming if the VQ 5spd driver is able to actually put that low end power to the ground.
Also, I realize all this information you're are talking about is coming from a guy that thinks a Nismo Radiator Cap made his car faster.
Yeah for all that top end your car has it made a real big diffrence hence you trapspeed of 93.68 mph. with you 2.1 60ft and drag radials right. i would like to see a VE speed with my mods and its 1/4 mile times i am curious. Radiator cap does make a diffrence i don't know what it is but for $30 it should and if it doesn't i still think it looks cool
Originally Posted by MrGone
Panzy stroke. VQ35, now there is the VE's replacement motor, the VQ30 is more of a "here hold my place in line while I go get some hot chocolate in the middle of winter" motor....
...until you want to go above 6800rpm
...until you want to go above 6800rpm
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
What do you mean by the phrase "pansy stroke" and also what do you mean by the 6800rpm thing?
Last time I checked, the 99's dont have a JWT avaliable to them, but maybe things have changed?
Originally Posted by zack342
Yeah for all that top end your car has it made a real big diffrence hence you trapspeed of 93.68 mph. with you 2.1 60ft and drag radials right. i would like to see a VE speed with my mods and its 1/4 mile times i am curious. Radiator cap does make a diffrence i don't know what it is but for $30 it should and if it doesn't i still think it looks cool
radiator cap makes a difference but you dont know what it is
. maybe us third gen guys are trying to "prove something" but at least most of us know what the parts we buy actually do for the car maybe i'm stuck in my own little 3rd gen world, but maybe i'm not
Originally Posted by MrGone
VQ30's have a smaller stroke than VE's, the VQ didnt get it back until the 35.
Last time I checked, the 99's dont have a JWT avaliable to them, but maybe things have changed?
Last time I checked, the 99's dont have a JWT avaliable to them, but maybe things have changed?
That's what I thought you meant about stroke. Actually having a smaller stroke and larger bore is better for power production at higher RPM levels because of lower piston speeds at any given RPM, less stress on things like rod bolts, rods, etc.
And yes you are right there is still no simple plug in ECU for 99s.
Originally Posted by MaDMaX024
this thread is getting ridiculous. get over it and stop this sh*t flinging contest.
radiator cap makes a difference but you dont know what it is
. maybe us third gen guys are trying to "prove something" but at least most of us know what the parts we buy actually do for the car 
maybe i'm stuck in my own little 3rd gen world, but maybe i'm not
radiator cap makes a difference but you dont know what it is
. maybe us third gen guys are trying to "prove something" but at least most of us know what the parts we buy actually do for the car maybe i'm stuck in my own little 3rd gen world, but maybe i'm not

In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
Is that something you typed up? Or something that you cut and pasted? If so, please provide the link to give credit where credit was due. Aaron's 3rd gen is an automatic, which is why he traps at only 93mph.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
That's what I thought you meant about stroke. Actually having a smaller stroke and larger bore is better for power production at higher RPM levels because of lower piston speeds at any given RPM, less stress on things like rod bolts, rods, etc.
And yes you are right there is still no simple plug in ECU for 99s.
And yes you are right there is still no simple plug in ECU for 99s.
Originally Posted by zack342
Yeah for all that top end your car has it made a real big diffrence hence you trapspeed of 93.68 mph. with you 2.1 60ft and drag radials right. i would like to see a VE speed with my mods and its 1/4 mile times i am curious. Radiator cap does make a diffrence i don't know what it is but for $30 it should and if it doesn't i still think it looks cool
Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
Are you incapable of having an intelligent argument without losing your temper? Who cares if you have a degree? Show it to whoever you want, nobody cares.
If you cannot contribute anything to this conversation that is logical/factual like Dave, Jeff, MrGone, etc are, then /yourself. You've never even seen/driven a VE, so why are you even arguing about it? I'll at least look at Dave's arguments because I know that he's at least seen them in action. You on the other hand, just behave like you are a 15 year old.
Originally Posted by ScreamingVE
Normally thats the rule. But the VQ's intake manifold and cams were developed to produce low-mid range TQ without a big sacrifice in high-end compared to the VE. SteVTEC has SAE documents of how Nissan over came the large bore over stroke to produce low-end power, one of which was aerodynamic intake ports IIRC.

with what they had to work with
Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
Surely if you know all that, you also know that engines are designed to run within a specific temp, more or less results in excessive engine wear.
In reality it's nothing worth arguing about, its not going to do jack in real world situations. You wanna spend $35+ on a radiator cap, thats fine, personally I'd rather spend that money on ES LCA Bushings or something else.
what would you say auto vs auto 99with slipping tranny mods are y-pipe, cold air intake, full 2.5" exhaust cat back vs the same 3rd gen se 93. I smoked the crap outa him off the line and on the high way, with a failing tranny, my car is barley going into the 15's its so bad. Every time I brought it to the track it would loose .1 or .2 seconds. that was about 4 months ago, cant mess with the vq its a work of art, vs the old iron block of death and weight, but 3rd gens have something we dont there motors are literally bullet proof cause of all the imitaion alluminum(prolly gonna get my as$ handed to me for saying that) Dont diss the 4th gen, we didnt say crap about your rust buckets, you guys started it and like its not cool that maxima people are arguing about something so freking stupid. (ahhh relief) STOP THIS MADNESSS AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Originally Posted by KLoWnPR109
LMAO, where did you copy and paste that from?
Are you incapable of having an intelligent argument without losing your temper? Who cares if you have a degree? Show it to whoever you want, nobody cares.
If you cannot contribute anything to this conversation that is logical/factual like Dave, Jeff, MrGone, etc are, then /yourself. You've never even seen/driven a VE, so why are you even arguing about it? I'll at least look at Dave's arguments because I know that he's at least seen them in action. You on the other hand, just behave like you are a 15 year old.
Are you incapable of having an intelligent argument without losing your temper? Who cares if you have a degree? Show it to whoever you want, nobody cares.
If you cannot contribute anything to this conversation that is logical/factual like Dave, Jeff, MrGone, etc are, then /yourself. You've never even seen/driven a VE, so why are you even arguing about it? I'll at least look at Dave's arguments because I know that he's at least seen them in action. You on the other hand, just behave like you are a 15 year old.
Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_2.htm
I am not sure why he needed a degree in Mechanical Engineering to copy and paste someone elses sales pitch.
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
what would you say auto vs auto 99with slipping tranny mods are y-pipe, cold air intake, full 2.5" exhaust cat back vs the same 3rd gen se 93. I smoked the crap outa him off the line and on the high way, with a failing tranny, my car is barley going into the 15's its so bad. Every time I brought it to the track it would loose .1 or .2 seconds. that was about 4 months ago, cant mess with the vq its a work of art, vs the old iron block of death and weight, but 3rd gens have something we dont there motors are literally bullet proof cause of all the imitaion alluminum(prolly gonna get my as$ handed to me for saying that) Dont diss the 4th gen, we didnt say crap about your rust buckets, you guys started it and like its not cool that maxima people are arguing about something so freking stupid. (ahhh relief) STOP THIS MADNESSS AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Originally Posted by zack342
i will try to make this as simple as possible since you guys don't seem to know much about basic heat transfer...next time you don;t know what your talking about i suggest you SHUT the F^(U)*C!K* up. I don't see your Degree in Mechanical Engineering anywhere you wanna see mine?!?!
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
the coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
i already knew what it did, i have a good understanding of the cooling system. i see "you" mentioned the radiator an awful lot of times in that statement, but where did i? i said heater core
. if you have a degree in mechanical engineering why did you state that you didnt know what difference it made? no i'm not interested in seeing anyone's degree in anything. why? because i dont care that much.
if you just wrote that, then why is "we" used?
Quite the thread we've got here.
My thoughts. So therefore, this is all IMO.
3rd gen VE, great car for it's day, same performance as the VQ, but modding VQ (MEVI etc) gives a slight edge for the VQ, but not stock for stock, as the VE has a VI, and the 3rd gen is slightly heavier.
3rd gen IRS, nuff said, why they went to milti-link beam, beyond me, I like IRS better.
3rd gen was more advanced in some areas (suspension/variable intake, VTC) in stock form than the 4th gen even though it came out before, though the 4th gen is more popular due to it's looks.
I think dmontz has the best perspective on this topic because he's had both. . .
But this is my .02
My thoughts. So therefore, this is all IMO.
3rd gen VE, great car for it's day, same performance as the VQ, but modding VQ (MEVI etc) gives a slight edge for the VQ, but not stock for stock, as the VE has a VI, and the 3rd gen is slightly heavier.
3rd gen IRS, nuff said, why they went to milti-link beam, beyond me, I like IRS better.
3rd gen was more advanced in some areas (suspension/variable intake, VTC) in stock form than the 4th gen even though it came out before, though the 4th gen is more popular due to it's looks.
I think dmontz has the best perspective on this topic because he's had both. . .
But this is my .02
Originally Posted by MrGone
yeah, but what doesnt make alot of sense is why Nissan did that, why not use a larger stroke from the start? oh well, they still did a good job 
with what they had to work with


with what they had to work with

Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
the old iron block of death

Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
we didnt say crap about your rust buckets
@ Nissan Paint Law Suit
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
you guys started it
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
what would you say auto vs auto 99with slipping tranny mods are y-pipe, cold air intake, full 2.5" exhaust cat back vs the same 3rd gen se 93. I smoked the crap outa him off the line and on the high way, with a failing tranny, my car is barley going into the 15's its so bad. Every time I brought it to the track it would loose .1 or .2 seconds. that was about 4 months ago, cant mess with the vq its a work of art, vs the old iron block of death and weight, but 3rd gens have something we dont there motors are literally bullet proof cause of all the imitaion alluminum(prolly gonna get my as$ handed to me for saying that) Dont diss the 4th gen, we didnt say crap about your rust buckets, you guys started it and like its not cool that maxima people are arguing about something so freking stupid. (ahhh relief) STOP THIS MADNESSS AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Cars I Beat List
1 Civic All Types and most years.
2 Integras 5SPD (All Except Type R)
3 Camry All Types
4 Sentra 5SPD
5 Audi A6
6 VW Passat Turbo
7 Audi A4
8 Jetta
9 Mustang GT
10 Camraro Z28
11 Accord V6 all Generation
(Except for the New ones, I have yet to find one that I can race Against)
12 Focus
13 Neon
14 Cavalier
15 240SX
Victims Comming
1 Type R Integra
2 Any one Else
Originally Posted by KLoWnPR109
Kinda hard to see any logic in what you just wrote considering that you have the following kill list on your cardomain.
Cars I Beat List
1 Civic All Types and most years.
2 Integras 5SPD (All Except Type R)
3 Camry All Types
4 Sentra 5SPD
5 Audi A6
6 VW Passat Turbo
7 Audi A4
8 Jetta
9 Mustang GT
10 Camraro Z28
11 Accord V6 all Generation
(Except for the New ones, I have yet to find one that I can race Against)
12 Focus
13 Neon
14 Cavalier
15 240SX
Victims Comming
1 Type R Integra
2 Any one Else
Cars I Beat List
1 Civic All Types and most years.
2 Integras 5SPD (All Except Type R)
3 Camry All Types
4 Sentra 5SPD
5 Audi A6
6 VW Passat Turbo
7 Audi A4
8 Jetta
9 Mustang GT
10 Camraro Z28
11 Accord V6 all Generation
(Except for the New ones, I have yet to find one that I can race Against)
12 Focus
13 Neon
14 Cavalier
15 240SX
Victims Comming
1 Type R Integra
2 Any one Else
haha, you sure know how to dig up the dirt and rub the salt into a festering wound.



