2-pc 2004 Maxima rotors are finally here!
11-17-2006, 02:08 PM
#125
Originally Posted by Nietzsche
How long do OEM 6th gen rotors typically last? I drive what you would call "spirited".
03-16-2007, 06:44 PM
#128
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,431
I didn't know ssbc made a brake kit with 12.6" rotor for our cars...I thought they only offered 12" and 13" versions..
I wouldn't have a problem trying out their brake kit, they are cheap and offer aluminum 2 piston and 4 piston calipers...they just don't offer 2 piece rotors which is why I don't have their setup...I would get the J30/Q45 calipers but they have just as much a poor pad selection as the 6th gen calipers I have now do yet the pads are smaller meaning they can't withstand as much heat as the huge 6th gen pads can....
I wouldn't have a problem trying out their brake kit, they are cheap and offer aluminum 2 piston and 4 piston calipers...they just don't offer 2 piece rotors which is why I don't have their setup...I would get the J30/Q45 calipers but they have just as much a poor pad selection as the 6th gen calipers I have now do yet the pads are smaller meaning they can't withstand as much heat as the huge 6th gen pads can....
03-17-2007, 05:59 AM
#129
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Originally Posted by michaelnyden
I didn't know ssbc made a brake kit with 12.6" rotor for our cars...I thought they only offered 12" and 13" versions..
I wouldn't have a problem trying out their brake kit, they are cheap and offer aluminum 2 piston and 4 piston calipers...they just don't offer 2 piece rotors which is why I don't have their setup...I would get the J30/Q45 calipers but they have just as much a poor pad selection as the 6th gen calipers I have now do yet the pads are smaller meaning they can't withstand as much heat as the huge 6th gen pads can....
I wouldn't have a problem trying out their brake kit, they are cheap and offer aluminum 2 piston and 4 piston calipers...they just don't offer 2 piece rotors which is why I don't have their setup...I would get the J30/Q45 calipers but they have just as much a poor pad selection as the 6th gen calipers I have now do yet the pads are smaller meaning they can't withstand as much heat as the huge 6th gen pads can....
03-18-2007, 09:21 AM
#133
Before I realized that this was dug up from the grave I did some thinking about the brake rotors here. You say that the weight is about 5 lbs less, but looking at the design, the rotational mass would be about the same and show little to no difference when compaired to the stock Brembos. the outer piece appears to be the same thickness as the stockers. The reason BBK's feel heavy is due to the mass moment of inertia of the rotor. The MMI is more effected by the outer mass than the inner by a long-shot. Therefore, haveing the outer part of the rotor the same would yield very simular results. I just don't see this as an improvement over the stockers, especially for $600! Stock rotors are $125 each new, or about $30 each used (junkyard). You'd be better off buying lighter rims.
03-18-2007, 11:23 AM
#134
Originally Posted by GBAUER
Before I realized that this was dug up from the grave I did some thinking about the brake rotors here. You say that the weight is about 5 lbs less, but looking at the design, the rotational mass would be about the same and show little to no difference when compaired to the stock Brembos. the outer piece appears to be the same thickness as the stockers. The reason BBK's feel heavy is due to the mass moment of inertia of the rotor. The MMI is more effected by the outer mass than the inner by a long-shot. Therefore, haveing the outer part of the rotor the same would yield very simular results. I just don't see this as an improvement over the stockers, especially for $600! Stock rotors are $125 each new, or about $30 each used (junkyard). You'd be better off buying lighter rims.
or you can buy them because they look cool and you'll look like serious business
03-18-2007, 01:24 PM
#135
GBAUER,
Realize there are several factors involved than simply rotational moment.
1. loss of unsprung, rotating weight
Due to the lower total mass, you lower unsprung weight, allowing the chassis and suspension to do their job better. this provides better handling and a smoother ride.
2. thermal capacity & heat management
These rotors have much more surface area, internally and externally. The larger surface area provides more contact surface for the pads, as well as more area to conduct heat away from the disc through the air.
they also have directional, curved vanes providing considerably more airflow and cooling through the rotor than the stock brakes.
this lessens the heat stresses in the metal, causing the rotors to last much longer than the stock discs.
the aluminum hats also transmit less heat into the wheel bearings so they aren't stressed as much and last longer. As well, they prevent rotor warpage by isolating the majority of the heat into a flat disc instead of going up the sides of the hat. this allows the rotor to only expand one direction instead of two.
3. rotating mass
I haven't done the math (namely because I haven't spent the time to measure and calculate everything since they work so much better). but even though the rotors are larger than the stock 4 and 5 gen (same dimensions as stock 6 gen), I would venture to say they still have very similar or even lower total inertia moment due to the lower total mass.
4. Material.
These rotors are made of a much higher quality iron than the stock-type cast iron rotors. I've read before these are forged steel due to the hardness, but I'm still under the impression they are pure iron since that's the best material for heat conduction and withstanding thermal stresses.
What's the mean in english?
My custom 13" 2-pc rotors (made by the same company at the 12.6") are almost 5 years old and have thousands of track laps and 40,000 street miles on one set. Generally I would expect to replace stock rotors every 40k miles, and once or twice a year under heavy track use like what these have seen.. so all-in-all, I SAVE money and increase performance by using these rotors.
Realize there are several factors involved than simply rotational moment.
1. loss of unsprung, rotating weight
Due to the lower total mass, you lower unsprung weight, allowing the chassis and suspension to do their job better. this provides better handling and a smoother ride.
2. thermal capacity & heat management
These rotors have much more surface area, internally and externally. The larger surface area provides more contact surface for the pads, as well as more area to conduct heat away from the disc through the air.
they also have directional, curved vanes providing considerably more airflow and cooling through the rotor than the stock brakes.
this lessens the heat stresses in the metal, causing the rotors to last much longer than the stock discs.
the aluminum hats also transmit less heat into the wheel bearings so they aren't stressed as much and last longer. As well, they prevent rotor warpage by isolating the majority of the heat into a flat disc instead of going up the sides of the hat. this allows the rotor to only expand one direction instead of two.
3. rotating mass
I haven't done the math (namely because I haven't spent the time to measure and calculate everything since they work so much better). but even though the rotors are larger than the stock 4 and 5 gen (same dimensions as stock 6 gen), I would venture to say they still have very similar or even lower total inertia moment due to the lower total mass.
4. Material.
These rotors are made of a much higher quality iron than the stock-type cast iron rotors. I've read before these are forged steel due to the hardness, but I'm still under the impression they are pure iron since that's the best material for heat conduction and withstanding thermal stresses.
What's the mean in english?
My custom 13" 2-pc rotors (made by the same company at the 12.6") are almost 5 years old and have thousands of track laps and 40,000 street miles on one set. Generally I would expect to replace stock rotors every 40k miles, and once or twice a year under heavy track use like what these have seen.. so all-in-all, I SAVE money and increase performance by using these rotors.
03-18-2007, 04:25 PM
#136
Originally Posted by GBAUER
Before I realized that this was dug up from the grave I did some thinking about the brake rotors here. You say that the weight is about 5 lbs less, but looking at the design, the rotational mass would be about the same and show little to no difference when compaired to the stock Brembos. the outer piece appears to be the same thickness as the stockers. The reason BBK's feel heavy is due to the mass moment of inertia of the rotor. The MMI is more effected by the outer mass than the inner by a long-shot. Therefore, haveing the outer part of the rotor the same would yield very simular results. I just don't see this as an improvement over the stockers, especially for $600! Stock rotors are $125 each new, or about $30 each used (junkyard). You'd be better off buying lighter rims.
but let me tell you from firsthand experience, having switched from the OEM 6th gen rotors to the 2 pc, switched back for winter, and now put the 2pc rotors back on again: THE DIFFERENCE IS SIGNIFICANT.
It is MORE of a difference than swithcing from my 25lb 18s to my 17lb track 17s, for acceleration. Also the reduced unsprung weight really improves ride quality over rough roads, and makes the steering feel much quicker and lighter....
Bottom line: the 2pc rotors was probably the single most expensive mod I've done to my car (except wheels), and I consider them to be worth every cent - especially when paired with the z32 calipers.
03-18-2007, 08:11 PM
#137
Originally Posted by irish44j
George...matt's response covers it all.
but let me tell you from firsthand experience, having switched from the OEM 6th gen rotors to the 2 pc, switched back for winter, and now put the 2pc rotors back on again: THE DIFFERENCE IS SIGNIFICANT.
It is MORE of a difference than swithcing from my 25lb 18s to my 17lb track 17s, for acceleration. Also the reduced unsprung weight really improves ride quality over rough roads, and makes the steering feel much quicker and lighter....
Bottom line: the 2pc rotors was probably the single most expensive mod I've done to my car (except wheels), and I consider them to be worth every cent - especially when paired with the z32 calipers.
but let me tell you from firsthand experience, having switched from the OEM 6th gen rotors to the 2 pc, switched back for winter, and now put the 2pc rotors back on again: THE DIFFERENCE IS SIGNIFICANT.
It is MORE of a difference than swithcing from my 25lb 18s to my 17lb track 17s, for acceleration. Also the reduced unsprung weight really improves ride quality over rough roads, and makes the steering feel much quicker and lighter....
Bottom line: the 2pc rotors was probably the single most expensive mod I've done to my car (except wheels), and I consider them to be worth every cent - especially when paired with the z32 calipers.
03-18-2007, 08:25 PM
#139
Originally Posted by MrGone
You need a Fidanza
but selling my POS townhouse and buying a SFH with a 2-car garage is higher on my priority list at the moment
03-18-2007, 08:27 PM
#140
Originally Posted by chernmax
LOL, Grave digger...
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