View Poll Results: Are you interested in this?
Yes
10
62.50%
No
6
37.50%
Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll
NWP 00VI VIAS cup fix interest thread
#41
Neither is JB Weld! I've heard stories about it being used on cracked engine blocks. I personally know someone that successfully used it to "glue" a broken housing on a Paxton Blower back together.
#42
I did buy JB Weld to seal up the top plastic tank on my radiator. I ran a bead of it all the way across the top, and it's rock hard stuff. I still have enough left over to fix my Vias cup. However, I was thinking about that Gorilla epoxy since they dry time on it is so much shorter.
#43
I did buy JB Weld to seal up the top plastic tank on my radiator. I ran a bead of it all the way across the top, and it's rock hard stuff. I still have enough left over to fix my Vias cup. However, I was thinking about that Gorilla epoxy since they dry time on it is so much shorter.
#44
I understand that. When you open up the VIAS actuator, you'll see there isn't much room in there for an alternate mounting method. It could be done with major modifications but it's probably not a simple/economical fix.
OK, I'll answer your questions and put your mind at ease re: JB Weld "fix"
1. JB Weld is just a Steel reinforced epoxy. If you've ever used epoxy you can use JB Weld.
2. Hopefully it is permanent, that's the point of the repair. But if something does go wrong it CAN be removed just like any other epoxy. Prior to cure; It can be wiped off for a 2nd try. After cure; Heat (JB Weld is good to 600F which is well below the melting point of Brass), Abrasives (grind it off with a Dremel), or enough Force to break the bond (chip it off). Granted, since JB Weld is a VERY strong epoxy it's a PITA.
3. Not true per the above. You'll have plenty of time to be sure the alignment is right, since JB Weld takes 24hrs. to fully cure (Recommended). The power rod stays in the IM during the "fix", and you don't have to JB Weld the spring in the cup. (I think the spring epoxied in the cup may decrease the bond surface area) All I did was compress the heck out of the spring (coil bound) in a vise 1st. And left it that way for the entire time it took to thoroughly clean the actuator/cup, do the repair, clean up the end of the power rod/actuator mounting surfaces, and wait 24hrs. for the JB Weld to cure. Shortened it up nicely, and you only need enough JB Weld on the bottom of the cup to just cover the actuator rod end (<1/16" approx. depth). After that point more epoxy isn't going to be much stronger (the surface area of the actuator rod is the limiting factor), be more prone to crack and could increase full cure time.
4. Believe it or not most epoxies are Organic Resins that catalyze to form polymerized bonds only when mixed/cured. Similar to blood clotting.
OK, I'll answer your questions and put your mind at ease re: JB Weld "fix"
1. JB Weld is just a Steel reinforced epoxy. If you've ever used epoxy you can use JB Weld.
2. Hopefully it is permanent, that's the point of the repair. But if something does go wrong it CAN be removed just like any other epoxy. Prior to cure; It can be wiped off for a 2nd try. After cure; Heat (JB Weld is good to 600F which is well below the melting point of Brass), Abrasives (grind it off with a Dremel), or enough Force to break the bond (chip it off). Granted, since JB Weld is a VERY strong epoxy it's a PITA.
3. Not true per the above. You'll have plenty of time to be sure the alignment is right, since JB Weld takes 24hrs. to fully cure (Recommended). The power rod stays in the IM during the "fix", and you don't have to JB Weld the spring in the cup. (I think the spring epoxied in the cup may decrease the bond surface area) All I did was compress the heck out of the spring (coil bound) in a vise 1st. And left it that way for the entire time it took to thoroughly clean the actuator/cup, do the repair, clean up the end of the power rod/actuator mounting surfaces, and wait 24hrs. for the JB Weld to cure. Shortened it up nicely, and you only need enough JB Weld on the bottom of the cup to just cover the actuator rod end (<1/16" approx. depth). After that point more epoxy isn't going to be much stronger (the surface area of the actuator rod is the limiting factor), be more prone to crack and could increase full cure time.
4. Believe it or not most epoxies are Organic Resins that catalyze to form polymerized bonds only when mixed/cured. Similar to blood clotting.
What on the actuator cup did you have to clean? What did you have to 'shorten' (not clear on that)?
And lastly, since I've only seen pics and have never seen the inside of the VIAS in person, yo put the glue on the inside or outside of the cup (bottom)?
#45
I just did the JB Weld fix to my '00, and let me say.....Wow! Mine was completely broken and since the fix my car runs great.
All you do is put JB weld on the bottom of the cup and in the cup, set the cup to the right orientation and then press the spring in the JB weld. Let it cure and enjoy!
All you do is put JB weld on the bottom of the cup and in the cup, set the cup to the right orientation and then press the spring in the JB weld. Let it cure and enjoy!
#46
I just did the JB Weld fix to my '00, and let me say.....Wow! Mine was completely broken and since the fix my car runs great.
All you do is put JB weld on the bottom of the cup and in the cup, set the cup to the right orientation and then press the spring in the JB weld. Let it cure and enjoy!
All you do is put JB weld on the bottom of the cup and in the cup, set the cup to the right orientation and then press the spring in the JB weld. Let it cure and enjoy!
#47
I've heard different things on when to put the spring in. Did you let the JB weld cure a bit before putting the spring back in or did you do it right away?
#48
Nice, I need to get off my a$$ and get this going. Thanks
#49
Nice, I need to get off my a$$ and get this going. Thanks
Also man I recommend changing the screws, had to use a vice grip to get them off, to bolts (M6 x 1.00 20mm long)
#50
That's a good idea. I'll use that method of holding down the gas pedal to break that last screw loose. All I have to do after that to get a straight shot at the screw is to remove my Berk intake from the throttle body.
#51
Wow thank you for the sizes lol, I didn't feel like matching them up w/ my 'big box 'o screws' so definitely good lookin out on the screws.
#52
Hmm... I think this is going to be my next fix/project. It seems the JB Weld fix is the way to go from reading everyone's posts, but I'm going to have to do a little bit of research before I try to go do this myself. Bummer, kinda, because I'm about to drive 2000mi for a trip to/from Ohio, and I'd like to have my power back if in fact my VIAS is broken. I just don't think I can prepare and do the job in one day.
#53
Thanks, I had to come up with some creative ideas to do the job without help. I have the OEM air-box. No way I was getting at the VIAS screws with it on.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hdnseek
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
3
09-09-2015 05:55 AM