Yes, I have read the stickies and Motorvate.ca ....

The quaife appears to be missing one of the 12 bolts that holds it together.

I called quaife and they are not familiar with it.

They said one hole is empty and has a "dal pin" to help align it up.

So I have no idea, any help about placing the part actually inside the tranny would be great.

Thanks!

 

I had the same question... it is suposed to be that way. I was so worried that I checked Confused's quaife before we put my tranny back together. Just to make sure that bolt was "missing" for all.

 

"Dowel Pin," they're used to keep everything straight.

 

This was funey!

 

SO exactly how do I line up with this PIN and all?

more detail please =)

 

My shop says it will be a lot more labor to do these 2 more seals:
input seal #32113-03e00
gear selector seal(oil seal striking rod) #32858-03e00

and they look fine and don't recommend doing them.

Also, i need more detail on the input shaft shims, they seem to not want to do those either.

Heres all my info:

1. bearings you need 2 of them, #38440-96E00
2. speedometer drive gear Nissan part #32701-03E01
3. differential and input seals:
a. 1 right CV seal #38342-81X01
b. 1 left CV seal #38342-81x00
c. input seal #32113-03e00
d. gear selector seal(oil seal striking rod) #32858-03e00
4. shims
5. UDP: Replace the front oil seal, part #13510-31U00


Extreme Nissan 1-866-233-0334 Robert shipping free overnite New Orleans
alternate parts: Try calling Dave Burnette at Town North nissan...800-251-7278. He's awesome.
1. $46.67 list my cost: 32.66 each

2. $22.92 list my cost: 16.04 each

3. $6.20 list my cost: 4.34 each
a. $ list my cost: $
b. $ list my cost: $
c. $ list my cost: $
d. $ list my cost: $

4. $4.01 list my cost: 2.81 each SIZES: .44 .53 .62 .71 .80 .85 .90

5. $ list my cost: $

Instructions for installing UR UDP: http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm


Instructions for canadian maxima 5speed rebuild: www.motorvate.ca

The extra step is just to transfer the ring gear from the included differential to the quaife
also the pics are a tad different- the canadian maxima's had LSD already, where ours had open differentials.



***Make sure they set the bearing preload and DO NOT reuse the gear fluid. Make sure there’s no silver, milky, or dark stuff in there. Use a magnet to see if there are any shavings***
make sure its 75-w90 GL4 gear oil


While you're at it, I think it is a good idea to check the shims of the input shaft as well, since I recently discovered that some of the transmissions have the exact same shims in them and were improperly shimmed. To do this, remove the shims of the input shaft and do the same process as the differential. Then using the FSM table and a micrometer, see if the shims in there are the correct ones. If not, order the correct ones. This step is real easy.


OK the part #s for the output shaft seals are 38342-81X01 and 38342-81x00. Yes they are different. When you put the seals in, grease around the outside lip and dont drive them in too far. Also do it while the (the shop will most likely know all of this, this is more towards the DIYer) tranny is out of the car, and DON'T drive the seales in too far like I did, or otherwise you'll get nothing but a humongous leak.

Lets see, a few things to look out for while reassembling that I screwed up, to make sure you won't screw up. Make sure the cleaner magnet is in place, make sure the shifter rods point the right way with their detents so the shifter will have a "click" action, make sure the reverse gear is in between the reverse engagement fork and not ontop of it. Also make sure a torque wrench is always used and I recommend loctite on every threaded bolt in and outside the transmission. Be sure to TEST the tranny by giving it a spin test in every gear to make sure that it works the way its supposed to. Other then that, reassembling the manual tranny isn't too bad.



what happens is you have to reassemble the transmission without the shims in place. then make the differential assembly move by pushing on it, and measure this movement using a dial gauge precision meter
then, using the FSM's table reference, you will know what size of shim to order. you then must take apart the tranny again and put in the shims




Anything else to add let me know!
Peace

 

Find a new shop, this one is sucks!

Input seal is already accessable, when you do the diff you have to pull out the input shaft anyway.

The stricking rod seal is also easily accessable, maybe 5 more minutes to do.

If they cant or wont do the shims properly tell them to f-off and take your buisness elseware. If this part is not done properly it will have to be redone in a few thosand miles anyway.

Find a new shop!

 

Yeah talk about breathin a sigh of relief

 

OK, my shop IS doing the differential shims part for sure.

I am talking about the input ones now. What all is required exactly to do this?

Eric's excerp:
"While you're at it, I think it is a good idea to check the shims of the input shaft as well, since I recently discovered that some of the transmissions have the exact same shims in them and were improperly shimmed. To do this, remove the shims of the input shaft and do the same process as the differential. Then using the FSM table and a micrometer, see if the shims in there are the correct ones. If not, order the correct ones. This step is real easy."

I need some more details here please!

I AM getting the left and right CV seals replaced.
They aren't into doing the:
input seal #32113-03e00
gear selector seal(oil seal striking rod) #32858-03e00

They say if it is working/looking not to replace them. It can just lead to more problems trying to install new ones if not done perfectly.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

How can I make sure all this stuff gets done the right way?
They already have my stuff apart, I don't have any other options now.
I plan/want to be there to make sure its done right.

So any tips on how to make sure its done well let me know!
Peace

 

P put it back after you left

 

Eric or someone got any ideas?

 

First off the Quaife missing the bolt seems normal. Mines like that too.

As for the input shaft shims, you measure it the same way you measure the differential shims. Put the case back together with no shims in it, and then "jack off" the input shaft where the clutch disc would sit. Then using the precision dial gauge, measure the clearance. Then using the FSM's table, find out what shims you need. Its even easier then the differential cause you dont have to worry about driving out the race and driving it back in.

 

Can you post the FSM table info please!!!!

 

OK nm! I got to borrow a dealers FSM!!!!

THanks!

 

How much is the average price for having the quaiffe installed at a shop? Anyone know?

SuDZ

 

Here is everything I am getting done, hours and price:

Quaife
ACT HDMM Clutch
PR Motor Mounts
UR Flywheel
UR UDP
R/T Cat
Trenz Grill and Valence from www.custommaxima.com (waiting for it)

13 hours

$55.00 an hour plus tax and those parts i listed in the post.

They actually only quoted me 8 hours for the quaife alone from the FSM. But after it all added up, they gave me an acceptable deal when compared to other shops quoting me 12 hours.

All in all I am banking on around $800 i guess.

Hope this helps!

Peace!