VQ 30 and 35 4th and 5th gen Stainless Steel Clutch lines !!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
check page 1 for pics ri-max, unless you mean pics of the line installed, we'll have to wait for someone to post that.
Thanks for the praise everyone. Anyone else need a line? =))
Thanks for the praise everyone. Anyone else need a line? =))
No, once someone figures out if they do/don't fit a 2000-2001, I will send it back.
Originally Posted by derrick
Has everyone sent their old lines back that wants a replacement one? I have only received a few back which have in-turn shipped back out already. Are there any more coming?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
icey2k1, the 2000 and 2001 max's use the same vq30 engine, and the clutch line is the same on those cars so the line originally shipped out to you will not work.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
Anybody else still sending their original line back? Over 30 lines went out for the first run, but only 3 or 4 came back. There had to be some more 95-01 max drivers that got the first shipment and need a new line.. anyone out there?
Also, anyone else want a line still? I have a few left. Thanks!
Also, anyone else want a line still? I have a few left. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
UPDATE 11/8/2004:
I have yet to receive many of the lines in to replace with the new lines. If I do not receive the lines by Monday 11/15/04 I can no longer replace the lines. If you would like your line replaced for your VQ30DE please send them in! Monday 11/15/04 will be the last day I can trade off lines for you guys. Thanks!
I have yet to receive many of the lines in to replace with the new lines. If I do not receive the lines by Monday 11/15/04 I can no longer replace the lines. If you would like your line replaced for your VQ30DE please send them in! Monday 11/15/04 will be the last day I can trade off lines for you guys. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
Length for the 2k2's and 2k3's for the VQ35DE was the correct length originally mailed out. About 15". If you got the original line sent out with the first batch and you have a vq35, then you are fine!
Originally Posted by derrick
Length for the 2k2's and 2k3's for the VQ35DE was the correct length originally mailed out. About 15". If you got the original line sent out with the first batch and you have a vq35, then you are fine! 
I know mine is good. In fact it is about 1.5-2" longer than the 13" stock.
I have yet to see anyone post about a 5.0 gen and was asking Alex if he'd checked his or not.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Nope and by the time I do, this will be ancient history.
I'd rather have it too long, then too short. I guess.
I'd rather have it too long, then too short. I guess.
If you remove the just the K&N filter from the Stealen intake you sould be able to view it nicely. On the trans mount is a bracket and lock plate (just like those used in all the brake lines from 95+) from there the rubber line runs to the top of the trans and connects just like a brake line to a caliper. You can just hold the line you have up to the stock one the car to check the lenght. If it's to short or just right you'll know immediately. Put the filter back on and send your line back or keep it to do the install when you have time.
Hope this help,
Adam
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
Send em in guys! Serious I can't honor the returns after this coming Monday, I have to get the old lines back to technafit to show them that I actually used the new ones they gave me as trades!
Broaner and I installed the SS line on my car last night. It took us forever because of one rusty-a$$ connection on the stock line: where the little hard line meets the short rubber line. It was a true b!tch. Finally I thought to use a big old pipe wrench on one side and we cracked it. (Second time that the pipe wrench has come to the rescue on my Maxima modding!)
We did end up bending the hard line slightly to give us more room to get at the rusty connection, but it was easy to bend back and put it back in the plastic clips to secure it. The Technafit line went in easily and was plenty long. Just make sure you tighten the bolt on the slave cylinder (banjo end) of the line as tight as you can. I thought I tightened it enough at first but when we went to bleed, air and fluid was coming out there. Also, we reused the stock bolt here, not the Technafit bolt. The stock bolt is longer and has a smaller head (12mm stock versus 11/16" for the Technafit bolt), and I do not think it's even possible to use the supplied bolt because the 12mm stock bolt head barely fits in there as is.
As has been noted, the SS line replaces both the long and short rubber lines (between the little hard line and the slave cylinder on the right side of the engine) as well as the metal box thing between the two stock rubber lines. This little box might be some kind of check valve, although I shone I light in there after we got it out and couldn't see anything. Anyway, I assume it's not necessary, and my clutch is working fine without it. Does anyone know more about this box thing?
So we ended up cleaning things up in there quite a bit: removed the box thing and the bracket it was on, and removed another unnecessary bracket which was holding the connection between the hard line and the short rubber line. Probably removed a pound of weight from my engine bay! Not to mention the shiny steel line looks great.

I've only driven a few miles but the clutch does feel better! Definitely more control of clutch engagement and the modulation seems more evenly spread throughout the pedal travel.
Thanks again, Derrick! Best GD customer service ever!
We did end up bending the hard line slightly to give us more room to get at the rusty connection, but it was easy to bend back and put it back in the plastic clips to secure it. The Technafit line went in easily and was plenty long. Just make sure you tighten the bolt on the slave cylinder (banjo end) of the line as tight as you can. I thought I tightened it enough at first but when we went to bleed, air and fluid was coming out there. Also, we reused the stock bolt here, not the Technafit bolt. The stock bolt is longer and has a smaller head (12mm stock versus 11/16" for the Technafit bolt), and I do not think it's even possible to use the supplied bolt because the 12mm stock bolt head barely fits in there as is.
As has been noted, the SS line replaces both the long and short rubber lines (between the little hard line and the slave cylinder on the right side of the engine) as well as the metal box thing between the two stock rubber lines. This little box might be some kind of check valve, although I shone I light in there after we got it out and couldn't see anything. Anyway, I assume it's not necessary, and my clutch is working fine without it. Does anyone know more about this box thing?
So we ended up cleaning things up in there quite a bit: removed the box thing and the bracket it was on, and removed another unnecessary bracket which was holding the connection between the hard line and the short rubber line. Probably removed a pound of weight from my engine bay! Not to mention the shiny steel line looks great.

I've only driven a few miles but the clutch does feel better! Definitely more control of clutch engagement and the modulation seems more evenly spread throughout the pedal travel.
Thanks again, Derrick! Best GD customer service ever!
Originally Posted by VQuick
As has been noted, the SS line replaces both the long and short rubber lines (between the little hard line and the slave cylinder on the right side of the engine) as well as the metal box thing between the two stock rubber lines. This little box might be some kind of check valve, although I shone I light in there after we got it out and couldn't see anything. Anyway, I assume it's not necessary, and my clutch is working fine without it. Does anyone know more about this box thing?
Originally Posted by VQuick
Broaner and I installed the SS line on my car last night. It took us forever because of one rusty-a$$ connection on the stock line: where the little hard line meets the short rubber line. It was a true b!tch. Finally I thought to use a big old pipe wrench on one side and we cracked it. (Second time that the pipe wrench has come to the rescue on my Maxima modding!)
We did end up bending the hard line slightly to give us more room to get at the rusty connection, but it was easy to bend back and put it back in the plastic clips to secure it. The Technafit line went in easily and was plenty long. Just make sure you tighten the bolt on the slave cylinder (banjo end) of the line as tight as you can. I thought I tightened it enough at first but when we went to bleed, air and fluid was coming out there. Also, we reused the stock bolt here, not the Technafit bolt. The stock bolt is longer and has a smaller head (12mm stock versus 11/16" for the Technafit bolt), and I do not think it's even possible to use the supplied bolt because the 12mm stock bolt head barely fits in there as is.
As has been noted, the SS line replaces both the long and short rubber lines (between the little hard line and the slave cylinder on the right side of the engine) as well as the metal box thing between the two stock rubber lines. This little box might be some kind of check valve, although I shone I light in there after we got it out and couldn't see anything. Anyway, I assume it's not necessary, and my clutch is working fine without it. Does anyone know more about this box thing?
So we ended up cleaning things up in there quite a bit: removed the box thing and the bracket it was on, and removed another unnecessary bracket which was holding the connection between the hard line and the short rubber line. Probably removed a pound of weight from my engine bay! Not to mention the shiny steel line looks great.

I've only driven a few miles but the clutch does feel better! Definitely more control of clutch engagement and the modulation seems more evenly spread throughout the pedal travel.
Thanks again, Derrick! Best GD customer service ever!
We did end up bending the hard line slightly to give us more room to get at the rusty connection, but it was easy to bend back and put it back in the plastic clips to secure it. The Technafit line went in easily and was plenty long. Just make sure you tighten the bolt on the slave cylinder (banjo end) of the line as tight as you can. I thought I tightened it enough at first but when we went to bleed, air and fluid was coming out there. Also, we reused the stock bolt here, not the Technafit bolt. The stock bolt is longer and has a smaller head (12mm stock versus 11/16" for the Technafit bolt), and I do not think it's even possible to use the supplied bolt because the 12mm stock bolt head barely fits in there as is.
As has been noted, the SS line replaces both the long and short rubber lines (between the little hard line and the slave cylinder on the right side of the engine) as well as the metal box thing between the two stock rubber lines. This little box might be some kind of check valve, although I shone I light in there after we got it out and couldn't see anything. Anyway, I assume it's not necessary, and my clutch is working fine without it. Does anyone know more about this box thing?
So we ended up cleaning things up in there quite a bit: removed the box thing and the bracket it was on, and removed another unnecessary bracket which was holding the connection between the hard line and the short rubber line. Probably removed a pound of weight from my engine bay! Not to mention the shiny steel line looks great.

I've only driven a few miles but the clutch does feel better! Definitely more control of clutch engagement and the modulation seems more evenly spread throughout the pedal travel.
Thanks again, Derrick! Best GD customer service ever!
oh yeah, and did all of your brake fluid spill out when you did this. a friend of mine said that he would help and as i took out the line, he wouldn't mind just putting his finger there to "plug" the hole. your thoughts.
The bleeding proceedure is fairly straightforward. I didn't read it but VQuick explained how it should be done. We did bottom first at least 20+ pumps. For that one we just let the fluid spill down on the ground but protected the rubber dust guard from the fluid with plastic. It is a fairly tight space on the lower bleeder so a wrench is difficult to work with cause you need to be fairly quick opening and closing. A regular socket wrench isn't good either because of the wratcheting of the tool. I used a cheepo torque wrench that doesn't have a ratchet. It is totally stationary. It worked well. I pulled toward me until the bleeder opened and as soon as it let go pushed back toward the rear of the car.
The upper was more problematic. Actually it may be that we just had the ability to see if air was coming out. I used clear 1/4" ID hospital tubing and hooked it up to the nipple. I used a regular 12 or 14mm(Can't recal which) boxed end wrench. We did it at least 30 times and there were still extremely small bubles coming through. I'm talking extremely small. The smallest bubble there can be. The first time there was lots of air. The second time was less and the third was next to nothing. The 4th through the 30+ bleedings there were always the little bubbles. At this point it was 2AM so we gave up. Is this normal? If not, why is it happening?
Just let the fluid drain out of the junction box. You barely have to touch it if that is what you are worried about. If you want wear latex gloves.
BTW, the line is the perfect. Length. It eliminates the junction box and makes it cleaner all together. Again, thanks for all your effort Derrick.
The upper was more problematic. Actually it may be that we just had the ability to see if air was coming out. I used clear 1/4" ID hospital tubing and hooked it up to the nipple. I used a regular 12 or 14mm(Can't recal which) boxed end wrench. We did it at least 30 times and there were still extremely small bubles coming through. I'm talking extremely small. The smallest bubble there can be. The first time there was lots of air. The second time was less and the third was next to nothing. The 4th through the 30+ bleedings there were always the little bubbles. At this point it was 2AM so we gave up. Is this normal? If not, why is it happening?
Just let the fluid drain out of the junction box. You barely have to touch it if that is what you are worried about. If you want wear latex gloves.
BTW, the line is the perfect. Length. It eliminates the junction box and makes it cleaner all together. Again, thanks for all your effort Derrick.
Pics
Here are some pics of the Line installed on a 2002. Line was perfect fit. With the right tools, took 10 minutes.


The bolt on the Steel Line is a 5 sided bolt. You should use a 5 sided locking wrench. We also used a bleeder kit with a pump and dump cell. It was like a $10 kit and made it real easy.
Thanks Derrick for the Line. How about some Brake lines now???


The bolt on the Steel Line is a 5 sided bolt. You should use a 5 sided locking wrench. We also used a bleeder kit with a pump and dump cell. It was like a $10 kit and made it real easy.
Thanks Derrick for the Line. How about some Brake lines now???
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
I want to give a Big Thank You! To all of the guys giving compliments. It means a lot. I did this GB to get a new item out to everyone, I am glad everyone likes it! Installs look great, and I hope the pedal response is better too.
Thanks again for the compliments!
Thanks again for the compliments!
Very nice photos! The whole setup looks much cleaner and easier to swap on the 5.5 gens. The banjo (tranny/SC side) bolt looks much easier to access, and the little hard clutch line is nice and straight. On the 4th gens it's got a lot of bends.
Is there any problem if the new line is resting on the top of the tranny? Manny trannies don't get very hot, correct?
Is there any problem if the new line is resting on the top of the tranny? Manny trannies don't get very hot, correct?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,252
From: Buena Park, CA
hey resurrectedmax: send me an email with your full name and shipping address. I will see if I have tracking # for you, because a payment that long ago, for sure, has shipped out already!
I'm coming a little late to this, since Rob (dblrr) let me know about this deal....read a few pages of this and must have missed something...is there a problem with the fit for the 2000 maxima...or does it work fine?
thanks, and if it fits, I'll be ordering one.
thanks, and if it fits, I'll be ordering one.
Please confirm receipt of payment and estimated ship date
derrick,
I've Paypal'd you last week, but did NOT receive any email nor confirmation. Can you please confirm that you have received my paypal payment and will ship out as soon as possible?
Thanks
SY
sycefiro@yahoo.com
PS. my Paypal fund came out of simonsyeh@yahoo.com
I've Paypal'd you last week, but did NOT receive any email nor confirmation. Can you please confirm that you have received my paypal payment and will ship out as soon as possible?
Thanks
SY
sycefiro@yahoo.com
PS. my Paypal fund came out of simonsyeh@yahoo.com



