You would want to be looking at live O2 sensor data, and manually add more fuel or more air than there should be, see if they respond appropriately. It's always possible that both are reading incorrectly (unlikely, but possible) and the misfire is a separate issue.

 

Hi,

I recently bought a 99 I30 Limited and had to replace the transmission. After transmission was replaced the car would turn over but not start. Both crank sensors have been replaced. Now Im told I need a new ECM. My car has Cal emissions, Auto, no traction control. Now for my question, can I use the Fed emission ECM (I can get them local at no cost) or do I have to stick with the Cal ECM? Thanks for any help and or input!

 

Did they replace the flexplate as well? Have you verified that there's no damage to the timing ring?

Does it sound like it wants to start, or does it never try to kick over? I would be betting on a timing ring issue first.

 

They did not replace the flexplate. When trying to start it will very rarely try to kick over but just once not several times in a row. Where is the timing ring located? Thanks for the quick response!

 

The timing ring is on the backside of the flexplate, it's the trigger for the crank sensor signal:


Welded on for the automatics, but overall the same.

If this was damaged, the crank sensor could not be reading it at all, or reading it incorrectly, causing a no-start. Best way to identify that would be a scope on the crank signal, really. You could also pull it out and spin the engine over by hand, watching the timing ring for any damage.

Is the security light on with the key on or during cranking? It could also be a coincidental NATS failure.

 

Thank you very much for you suggestions! Ill look into tommorow at the shop.

 

Okay Guys,

I'm slowly whittling away my codes but got a few more to go. I replaced my cyl 6 coil and got rid of the miss my 2001 I30 had (stock, Cali spec, 137k mi). I read I needed to reset the computer so I disconnected the battery for a few minutes. Now the car starts hard and occasionally has an erratic idle after start up for a couple seconds. I had the car scanned again and have the following codes:
P0138 - bank 1 sensor 2
P0139 - bank 1 sensor 2
P0160 - bank 2 sensor 2

I was hoping the bad coil was causing the O2 faults but guess not. Why is there 2 codes for what appears to be the same sensor? I have an exhaust leak from a bad gasket where the mid pipe connects just behind the pass rear wheel. Could that cause an O2 fault? Finally, what side is bank 1/2 and where is sensor 2? Is the left side of the engine the radiator side? Is sensor 2 before/after the cat?

Thanks a ton in advance. This site and its members have been a tremendous help in diagnosing everything on my car.

Slim

 

Anyone have a g20 stearing wheel on their i30? The stock stearing wheel belongs on a bus.

 

Thank you for the forum.

I have a '98 i30 that will not change air outlet modes. Everything else (a/c, fan speeds, recirc, display, etc) works fine.

The auto amp self-diagnosis gave me the errors: 25 and 31,32,34,35,36

I apparently have a defective sun sensor (25) but I assume that is not preventing the mode motor from operating.

I have used the "heater" auto amp diagnostic procedure 6 (HA-66) - I unplugged the connector on the mode motor to check voltages. For step C the voltage at the mode motor is ~12v and step D is ~5.5v as it should be. Step E is continuity as is should be. The mode motor does not operate. I removed the mode motor and the doors can easily be moved by hand.

I had previously removed the 16pin connector on the back of the auto amp and checked the voltage on pin21 - it was ~12v {{eta: the diagram shows a 20pin but calls out M47=the 16pin}}and the other pin was 5.5v as expected. => I have a used auto amp but that also has the same problem with the mode motor.

The Infiniti parts guy says he "hasn't sold a mode motor since 2004 - so he thinks that is not the likely problem.

What am I missing? I hate to spend $90 for the mode motor if the problem is the sun sensor or something else. What else could it be ?

ETA: updated with latest information.

 

Hey,

I've had my I35 for over a year (and LOVE the car, had a Maxima before it).
I noticed today that exhaust smoke is only coming out of one tailpipe (the one on the right). Is this normal? Is the second one only for show or is there something wrong with my car? I placed my hand near the tailpipes and could feel air (exhaust?) coming out of the right one, but nothing out of the left.

Any help would be appreciated.

Btw, it is a 2002 I35, with 92000kms. Bought it at 78000kms and no major work has been done (since I've had it).

Thanks!

 

Re,

That is interesting. Try this -- right after you start the engine (that is, when the exhaust system is COLD) hold your hand against the right-side tailpipe for a second or two and see if the exhaust is diverted to the other side. If you have a helper handy, ask them to hold the revs at varying speeds as you do this test -- but BE CAREFUL. The pipes will get hot, and you are crouched down behind a running automobile with someone else revving the engine.

Another thing you can do is rub your finger inside each tailpipe (again, when cold) and see if soot rubs off on your finger in relatively equal amounts from each side.

 

I just sold my Acura Legend 90. today and I'm officially an Infiniti I30 97. driver.
I had to work already at my Infiniti.





Beside it I had change brakes, sway bar link and drive axle. This forum is rally helpful.

 

Alright guys,

I took my car the a mechanic (my dads friend, a retired mechanic, not a legit shop or anything). He looked under the car and said that all the exhaust is taken to the one tailpipe, and that the other one is just for looks. Can anyone with an i35 (assuming its the same for a Max though) confirm that? Does exhaust only come out of one tailpipe on your car?

I just want to make sure.

Thanks.

 

It should just be a dual output muffler. Can you take a picture of what you have?

It's hard to determine if you're talking about dual mufflers or just two tips on one muffler (which is stock). If you do indeed have duals, then it's aftermarket and no real surprise that the left side isn't actually connected, given how the underbody looks back there.

 

It is the stock system, just two tips on one muffler. But should there be exhaust coming out of both tips or is just one how it is supposed to be?

 

Did you do the diag outside on a sunny day? Keep in mind the note on HA-31 concerning the active sunload sensor test, it can only verify operation if there is a lot of light present. Regardless, code 25 will not affect mode door operation.

Also note HA-36, 'if mode door motor harness connector is disconnected' it will set codes 31-36. This would also apply for a failed mode door motor that couldn't respond to any commands.

Unfortunately you can't really test the mode door motor itself, given the LAN communication used to command different positions.

One more thing to try would be unplugging the air mix door motor, as an internal fault there could very well take down the mini-LAN bus that controls both motors. Unplug, then recheck operation; if it works properly now, then air mix door motor is likely bad, otherwise replace the mode door motor.

Mode door motor is only $50 from Courtesy, PN 27731-1W200.

 

Hello all,

Quick and honest question for you Maxima/I30 guys. I've got a '87 300zx N/A vg30e, and Jim Wolf Tech completely ****ed up my ECU. Long story made short (because it is the ECU) I need to swap in a '80s Max Ecu to get back to normal since no parts yards have z31's inventoried in my area.

I just need to know the injector impedance/flow rate and 02 sensor styles corresponding to the year Maxima. My Z uses low impedance 180cc injectors and a zirconium 02 sensor, so the Maxima ECU needs to match these specs. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've researched for days and found nothing, since most people simply use Z31 ECU's for swaps such as 280zx's and 510's. Thank you!

 

The i30 (and all Maximas '95 and up) use the VQ, not the VG. Check in the 3rd gen section.

 

-----------
I installed the new mode door actuator/motor and everything works as designed.
FYI, while I had checked the sunload sensor on a sunny afternoon, when I installed the mode door motor, it was a noon-day sun and the sunload sensor passed as well - yes that sensor really requires a VERY bright day.

THANKS.

 

Hi all and thanks for this thread it makes it easy. I just got a 2002 I35 less than a week ago. After driving around for a while I really started to notice how these cars are a little small for a 6' 2'' big footed guy. It is hard for me to get my long legs comfortably positioned to use the pedals for a long time. To go a little further i noticed the pedals are as far to the right as pretty much possible. The gas pedal is, in fact, farther to the right than the side of the center console!!! My leg is up against the console and it can't go any further to the right. The bars that the pedals are connected to are L shaped to the right!!! Why??? Ughhhh My main questions are: Has anyone had this problem? Would it be easy to get a pedal assembly to move the pedals more to the left? If so, where can i get them? Thanks in advance for any help and responses.

 

I want to thank the mods for this thread. I have a few questions. Please forgive my NOOB ignorance in advance.

I just inherited a 1998 Infiniti I30 with 172K mi on it.

First thing I did was check fluids and functionality. No visible leaks and drives OK. I noticed a few issues...

---The AC works fine, but it will not retain settings. Every time I get in the car, the AC is set to "off". Can anyone point me in the right direction to mitigate this?

---The clock is dead. Who cares really, but I'll bet it is related to the AC problem.

---The ride is soft. There seems to be excessive body roll. I have no doubt that nothing on the suspension has been replaced. What parts exactly should I look for to get this tightened up?

---The headlights are in terrible shape. Can someone recommend a good replacement? Something cool, not OEM.

---Looks like I will be replacing the brake pads and rotors. Should I stay stock?

---The exhaust is in good shape, but I want something that will offer more performance. Should I just replace the muffler? If so what size is the inlet/outlet tubes? What is a good performance muffler that isn't super loud/aggressive?

---Before I found this forum, my trigger finger ordered a new intake to replace a badly clogged stock filter. Was this a poor choice?

---I care very little about the appearance of the car, my main focus is on performance and reliability. I'll never take it to the track, I just don't want to get run over on these Texas streets. Are there other things I should focus on to get decent performance?

---I have some money to drop on this, but I need to stay reasonable. Sorry to lay down so many queries in one thread, but I didn't know where else to take it.

Thanks in advance for any/all responses.

 

I have a 20002 infiniti 135 v6 which is pretty much a 5th gena maxima, i have been experiencing oil leak from the right side of the motor but i can't see where it's coming from i also changed the oil pan too becuz i thought that's what is was but it's not that so help me out here please

 

check the oil cooler adapter that the oil filter screws on to. I think there was a service bulletin on it.

 

Has anyone used an I30 engine from a non california I30 to replace the bad one in the california car that originally has a swirl valve system? I am currently doing just that and have come to a halt because i dont know if i could use the electrical harness that is in the cali car or if it matters. and if i use that harness do i have to swap ecu from the non cali car to go with the engine? or should i swap the top half of the engine so the car will remain with the swirl system? can anyone help to answer these questions?

 

I drive 2000 model Nissan Maxima. When I start the engine the RPM gauge doesn’t stay high. It drops quickly too low and usually the engine will shut off. So in order to keep the engine on, I push the accelerator pedal a couple of seconds right after the engine starts. And if the engine is cold, I keep pressing the accelerator pedal longer trying to simulate the normal revs of a cold engine, and I gradually release my press to allow the revs to drop off as they would normally do.

However when I take my food off the pedal, the gauge stays between 500 to 800 RMP, and the car starts shaking a little bit. And more surprisingly to me, when I turn on the AC, the revs drop lower instead of going up! And when I put the car in gear they drop even further. And the car will shake even more.

I noticed something unusual at the throttle body and have taken these pictures. Both that hose and the prominent part sticking out the throttle body suck air when the engine is on.

Do you know what’s missing here?

 

The last post before mine was on November 8, 2017. Is this thread still monitored by advanced members? Where else I can post my question?

 

Hey dude, got your pm. So its been many years since Ive dealt with that motor, my memory is unfortunately a bit fuzzy. What I can tell you for sure is that you have a vacuum leak which is whats causing your issues - that hose + barb are the leak, as you noted they are, well, vacuuming. I would assume that they have something to do with you Idle Air Control Valve but again its been too long since Ive seen that motor in person so I cant tell you that for sure. That hose and barb dont go together? Cant hurt to try, at least not more than its hurting already.

As for posting, I would use the 5th gen maxima forum. The i30/i35 forums are basically dead, since those cars are identical to maximas in most ways and maximas are far more common. 99% of info from the maxima subforums will apply for you as well, so youll have more success over there. One thing to note, is that many of the rules and layouts you see were put in place in the early 2000s, when these cars were new, as was the whole concept of car forums. Things used to be WAY more active here, thus why they have the “noobs post here first” threads to prevent the forum from being flooded with the same questions over and over. Those days are long gone though - you should be ok to just make your own thread, as long as youre clear with what your thread is about (ie; dont title it something ambiguous like “whats this?”). Youll also want to use the search function before making a thread, since practically every question there is to be asked has indeed, been asked before, and usually you can find the answers to those questions with a little digging. In your instance though, since you dont really know what youre dealing with in the first place, its fine to simply post or make a thread and ask.

But yeah. You got a vacuum leak, its definitely that hose and barb(s). Your question now is where does the hose go and whats supposed to go to the barb(s). Hope this helps.

 

I appreciate your reply!

I tried to post in the 5th gen forum but couldn't. I also tried to quote and reply to you in this forum and somehow couldn't either. I think this latter trial was because of a temporarily glitch. Today luckily I am able to reply, but not open a new thread.

 

I've done some research and found out that my Maxima is just like Infiniti I30 in the US. Someone help please

 

For the A32 (96-99) I30 and Maxima yes. the I30 is technically the international Maxima from the rest of the world. For the 2000-2002 the differences are more noticeable but the drive trains are the same I believe but the body has differences

 

Have you seen my post above titled "Looks like something is missing at the throttle body"? Can you identify the missing part(s)?

 

Looks like you are missing the small vacuum hose on the A32 that hose goes from the TB to the air box and then their is one more that connects to the IAC I believe. I am not to familiar with the 5th Gen Maxima but I am pretty sure it is similar to the 4th Gen

 

I appreciate you're sharing thoughts with me!

I've found out that one hose goes from the bard on the throttle body to the barb on what I was told is the AC idle up actuator. Here are some references:

I haven't yet found out where the other hose is going.

However, I've got a small hose which happened to fit the 2 barbs, so I put it there. The engine now shuts off as soon as I release the accelerator pedal. I tried covering one of the barbs with my finger, then the other, then the hose which we don't know where it should go. None of them alone or together shut off the engine. But connecting the two barbs does.

 

Today I was told that this is idle speed control.