Yes Ill take 2pc fried chicken, 1 ecu
Yes Ill take 2pc fried chicken, 1 ecu
Now Im almost certain Ive got a fried ECU
After a few hours of relentless "testing" sensors, fuses...etc here and there...
I told myself Im gona check codes for the hell of it (obd-II scanner) since it VERY WELL COULD be my crank sensor again.
Well, I turn the key to ACC and the CEL doesnt come on.
Is the bulb burned out? Maybe..
I try to read codes....and on the scanner it says
LINK ERROR
So, Ive already been looking at the ECU...seeing IF anything MAY have come loose, and it didnt look like it. I pressed firmly around the whole ECU just in case...
Now Im waiting on Jeff to ride over so I can swap ECUs to see if thats 100% the problem.
Will update later
After a few hours of relentless "testing" sensors, fuses...etc here and there...
I told myself Im gona check codes for the hell of it (obd-II scanner) since it VERY WELL COULD be my crank sensor again.
Well, I turn the key to ACC and the CEL doesnt come on.

Is the bulb burned out? Maybe..
I try to read codes....and on the scanner it says
LINK ERROR
So, Ive already been looking at the ECU...seeing IF anything MAY have come loose, and it didnt look like it. I pressed firmly around the whole ECU just in case...
Now Im waiting on Jeff to ride over so I can swap ECUs to see if thats 100% the problem.
Will update later
Shiit. Id rather have a stock ECU for now.
Sober....the "reset" screw on the ECU? Ive never used it like that, Ive always had the scanner.
Hopefully Jay is gona come by today, this **** is making me lose a lot of cheese.
Sober....the "reset" screw on the ECU? Ive never used it like that, Ive always had the scanner.
Hopefully Jay is gona come by today, this **** is making me lose a lot of cheese.
Not to state the obvious, but it seems like a harness or plug has been left disconnected or has broken/come undone from the connector.
Also - are you sure the OBD scanner hasn't gone belly-up - have to tried the ECU screw method or run to autozone to see if their scantool reports the same error?
Here is some info on how to test to see if the actual OBD (DLC) connector on your car is "live". Do these tests. If the pins don't test as stated below, then you just have a bad harness connection somewhere (since you already tried replacing the ECU).
Look at the check connecter (known as a DLC3 connector). There will be 2
rows of terminals/pins.
The bottom row (wide part of the DLC3) has terminals 1 through 8, counting
from the lower right to the lower left.
The top row (narrow part of the DLC3) has terminals 9 through 16, counter
from upper right to upper left.
Terminal #7 is the pulse generator during signal transmission - voltage will
be on-off.
Terminal #4 and #5 should always have less than 1 ohm of resistance between the terminal and body ground.
Terminal #16 should always have between 9 and 14 volts between the terminal and body ground.
Also - are you sure the OBD scanner hasn't gone belly-up - have to tried the ECU screw method or run to autozone to see if their scantool reports the same error?
Here is some info on how to test to see if the actual OBD (DLC) connector on your car is "live". Do these tests. If the pins don't test as stated below, then you just have a bad harness connection somewhere (since you already tried replacing the ECU).
Look at the check connecter (known as a DLC3 connector). There will be 2
rows of terminals/pins.
The bottom row (wide part of the DLC3) has terminals 1 through 8, counting
from the lower right to the lower left.
The top row (narrow part of the DLC3) has terminals 9 through 16, counter
from upper right to upper left.
Terminal #7 is the pulse generator during signal transmission - voltage will
be on-off.
Terminal #4 and #5 should always have less than 1 ohm of resistance between the terminal and body ground.
Terminal #16 should always have between 9 and 14 volts between the terminal and body ground.
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