Folks, P1320 back2back SES lights. The coils have 80K on them and it is a 2K1 on a 2000 maxima.

The condenser (essentially a capacitor) has a whole lot of oil residue on it.. How often does it go out and is it worth replacing or checking each coil is faulty/not. There is a detailed thread for checking individual coils.

Chime in as the car is running really rough.

 

Hello neighbor, San Ramon here. I can't help you but was interested in replacing my condenser. Where is it located?

 

Misfires aren't always caused by ignition coils.
Poor grounding can take out ignition coils quickly.
Not sure what condensor you're talking about? The coils are fired thru the ECU. If its the a/c condensor then yes you can clean it out, soak with Spray9, let it sit, then hose off and blow clean with compressed air.

 

The P1320 code can be caused by (at least in theory) a duff condenser but be aware that a coil that is packing it in can also set the P1320 by itself for a period of several driving cycles/time before finally setting a P03xx code that will give you the coil location (very often will also be accompanied by the "SLIP" & "TCS off" lights illuminating) in addition to the already present P1320 code. If your engine running rough has just recently occurred and particularly if it's intermittent and the SES light is NOT flashing, try waiting a bit and see if you get the cylinder code. I had to wait for a lot if trips with the occasional miss before I got the cylinder code when my first coil was packing it in. Removing/checking/cleaning the condenser connector is still a good idea.......the condenser is wrapped with mylar tape to the harness bundle at about the center of the front camshaft cover, just in front of the injector row.

 

I have ordered a new condenser (0.47Mf capacitor) from local dealership.
I know that the condenser is gone as the resistanc across is infinite (it should be around 1Mohm).

My dammn emissions check is up in a month or so, I need to get this code resolved ASAP and have a few cycles before taking it for emissions. Fuel dilution from a failed coil may be something that I am very worried about since it will screw up my cats/precats and O2s. I am in no mood to spend another $1000 (coils, O2s etc were changed at around 60K-80K miles) for this worthless junk car.

 

I keep getting conflicting information on the part maker to buy the new part from. Is it Hanshin or Mitsubishi?

 

Could be either..

 

If you are looking for the ignition coil this is the OEM (with gray dot) that will clear the P1320 code:
Hitachi 72938026047
Got one on eBay that cleared the code on my 2000 Maxima, just do a search. Cheap coils, i.e., UF348 made by Standard Parts, etc. will not clear the code.
The capacitor is not likely your issue.

 

Hey All;
After relentless determination i followed everyones advice...and I finally FOUND THE CONDENSER on my 2000 infiniti i30 >>>
I was taped around the harness...as per FSM...i cut it out and it was fried beyond belief (OHM READING was 0.00-OL)) ..
CONDensor plug signal and ground continuirty good _
Luckily i di not have to pull the ECM out...was fine backprobing with t-pins )) pinout good so far..next is to put in a NEW CONdENSOR
im posting pic....if it helps anyone locate the condenser....
thanks again..i will post an update soon )))
Handy!

 

Any idea what the ohm reading should be?

Also what does FSM stand for when you say "per the FSM"?

 

HOPE THIS HELPS >>> took a few days to find it..it was right in my face..hidden..taped up..its tiny...-SO LOOK FOR a square deformatiy behind the wire harness against the fuel rail )) FSM = Factory Service Manual...
According to the FSM OHMS reading should be Above 1 MEG OHM or above