Cruise control issue
Cruise control issue
Hi everyone on my 97 maxima my cruise control won't work I had a bad switch on my steering wheel I replaced it with a good switch I tested the new switch it works but my cruise light won't come on and the system isn't turning on and the switch on the dash is on and I'll be going about 60 and the Cruise control won't engage and break lights are fine. My old switch was defective and when I used my old switch the cruise on the dash would flash but now nothing will come on. Thanks in advance
Your original flashing light is caused by 4 things, the steering wheel switch is one of them. Maybe you blew fuse # 64 (located under the hood, cover label HORN) when you changed the switch.
Another thing to check is the cruise control disconnect switch on the brake pedal. The brake pedal has 2 switches on it, one for the brake lights and one for cruise control. there is a rubber "bumper" thing on the brake pedal that that touches the switch to make it work. These "bumpers" dry up with old age and break apart and then fall out. When this happens, the cruise control will not set/activate.
Another thing to check is the cruise control disconnect switch on the brake pedal. The brake pedal has 2 switches on it, one for the brake lights and one for cruise control. there is a rubber "bumper" thing on the brake pedal that that touches the switch to make it work. These "bumpers" dry up with old age and break apart and then fall out. When this happens, the cruise control will not set/activate.
Check that you are not loosing you speed signal, that can cause it.
TLDR: From personal experience, a Flashing light can also be caused by loss of speed signal.
in Detail:
The cluster in my '95 AUS Spec Max has a rare intermittent fault where i loose my speedo, the cruise drops out with the light flashing, and upon next engine start the O/D light flashes, for me it's a bad solder joint on the cluster and a firm (but not too hard) push on the trip counter reset will provide an immediate fix for a while. I should note the ECU also looses speed signal when the fault happens because i can see it on scan data via consult. AFAIK the Speed signal goes from the sensor to the cluster, and then everything else that needs it gets it from the cluster.
What you should do if you have a Consult Scan Tool, or a Consult adapter for a computer (like me) and a windows laptop / tablet with "ECUTalk", is pull up some live data and watch the vehicle speed PID, and make sure it reads a sane speed value as you drive around.
in Detail:
The cluster in my '95 AUS Spec Max has a rare intermittent fault where i loose my speedo, the cruise drops out with the light flashing, and upon next engine start the O/D light flashes, for me it's a bad solder joint on the cluster and a firm (but not too hard) push on the trip counter reset will provide an immediate fix for a while. I should note the ECU also looses speed signal when the fault happens because i can see it on scan data via consult. AFAIK the Speed signal goes from the sensor to the cluster, and then everything else that needs it gets it from the cluster.
What you should do if you have a Consult Scan Tool, or a Consult adapter for a computer (like me) and a windows laptop / tablet with "ECUTalk", is pull up some live data and watch the vehicle speed PID, and make sure it reads a sane speed value as you drive around.
Sorry for the time to reply I've been busy I've fixed the issue with the breaklight switch rubber deals for both the breaks and cruise control switches and all of my fuses are working the switch on the dash lights up when I turn it on could it be a relay
Just because you fixed the bumpers does not mean the the switch for the brake pedal is functional or adjusted correctly. The brake light switch is easy to see if it works. Tap the brakes and it your brake lights light up that switch is good. The brake light switch is on the left side and the cruise disconnect switch on the right. The simplest way to test that is with a multimeter and two paper clips. Bend the paper clips straight so you can insert behind the connector while plugged in. Check for continuity. I forget if there is continuity when foot is off brake pedal or when pedal is depressed. If you do not get a change in continuity with bake pedal movement depress the brake pedal and reach around to the front of the switch and depress the plunger manually. If you get a change in continuity then you will need to adjust the switch accordingly.
The switches on the brake pedal are not the same part. The brake light switch is a normally open (NO) switch while the cruise control switch is a normally closed switch (NC). The cruise switch on the clutch pedal is also NC.
So if you are going to do a continuity test on the cruise control disconnect switch, you should have continuity when the pedal IS NOT depressed.
DO NOT do this test on the brake light switch as described above because there is constant power to the brake light switch and this would damage your meter.
So if you are going to do a continuity test on the cruise control disconnect switch, you should have continuity when the pedal IS NOT depressed.
DO NOT do this test on the brake light switch as described above because there is constant power to the brake light switch and this would damage your meter.
Thanks Dennis for clarifying my response. I thought it was just simply easiest to test the brake light switch by seeing if the brake lights work.
I fixed mine this past weekend. Had two problems. Cruise disconnect was faulty and steering wheel switch was good but the buttons had crud stuck between them so when I pressed set... cancel button also moved and made contact. Simply pulled the buttons off and cleaned with rubbing alcohol.
I fixed mine this past weekend. Had two problems. Cruise disconnect was faulty and steering wheel switch was good but the buttons had crud stuck between them so when I pressed set... cancel button also moved and made contact. Simply pulled the buttons off and cleaned with rubbing alcohol.
I fixed mine this past weekend. Had two problems. Cruise disconnect was faulty and steering wheel switch was good but the buttons had crud stuck between them so when I pressed set... cancel button also moved and made contact. Simply pulled the buttons off and cleaned with rubbing alcohol.
Two all-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions – on a sesame seed bun......
I think it comes more from drinks or coffee.
Your original flashing light is caused by 4 things, the steering wheel switch is one of them. Maybe you blew fuse # 64 (located under the hood, cover label HORN) when you changed the switch.
Another thing to check is the cruise control disconnect switch on the brake pedal. The brake pedal has 2 switches on it, one for the brake lights and one for cruise control. there is a rubber "bumper" thing on the brake pedal that that touches the switch to make it work. These "bumpers" dry up with old age and break apart and then fall out. When this happens, the cruise control will not set/activate.
Another thing to check is the cruise control disconnect switch on the brake pedal. The brake pedal has 2 switches on it, one for the brake lights and one for cruise control. there is a rubber "bumper" thing on the brake pedal that that touches the switch to make it work. These "bumpers" dry up with old age and break apart and then fall out. When this happens, the cruise control will not set/activate.
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