Maxima R34 style Headlights a good buy?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
I think it is all the same material -- with or without the bulbs. One of the lamps leaks on mine. I think I found a way to install some clear permatex sealant fill in the gap. Otherwise you need to break them open to reseal them. I had to buy some high distance bulbs from NAPA to compensate for the poor low beams. The high beams I use are technically illegal but I only run them on country roads where there are no street lights or other cars to blind. Since history on the site was deleted past October of 2018, I can't find the part numbers. They are kind of a mess, but they look good.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
Well stated Chris. I had to use a hacksaw and some tin snips in a couple of places on the tabs to get the lights to mount up on my 99 model. Don't plan on this being a smooth installation for a 97-99 model. I can't speak for 95-96.
We had a hard rain last night that would normally cause the passenger side light to take on water. Apparently, the clear permatex RTV treatment around the top seam took care of that leak because the lights are dry in the inside today. I'm glad because I was now looking forward to removing the light assemblies to reseal them. In fact, I bought a 2nd set of R34 lights to reseal with Morimoto the butyl and keep in reserve in the event these lights start giving me problems I can replace them.
One thing to watch out for with these lights is there are some paper tape seals over the small blub hole on the side. The paper likes to disintegrate and leave specks of white paint flecks inside the bezel that impossible to get out without separating the lens from the black plastic body. This this is really noticeable with the black background models. I think I can wet the paper seal with something like kerosene to make it easier to remove on the next set so it will release without leaving specks of white material inside the light.
If I remember correctly I spent something over $100 or more for NAPA "long lights" for low beam and the blue Xenon high beam lights to perform. It took a strange combination of bulbs to get something to works. I ended up soaking a lot more money into getting "the look" that it was most likely worth.
I recently purchased a set of stock looking Eagle Eyes to replace the stock lights on the 98 model GLE. I immediately applied the clear RTV around the seams since it looks like those seams would give trouble and leak like the R34s. Many of us here apply clear RTV around the seams on the clear or smoked corner lights to prevent leaks. I started using clear on the corner lights before I installed them a few years ago. So far it works.
I guess the bottom line is any non-OEM "value priced' replacement lights will require some attention to keep them from leaking. So you pay for it one way or another. Also, some don't mind "high maintenance" to get the look.
We had a hard rain last night that would normally cause the passenger side light to take on water. Apparently, the clear permatex RTV treatment around the top seam took care of that leak because the lights are dry in the inside today. I'm glad because I was now looking forward to removing the light assemblies to reseal them. In fact, I bought a 2nd set of R34 lights to reseal with Morimoto the butyl and keep in reserve in the event these lights start giving me problems I can replace them.
One thing to watch out for with these lights is there are some paper tape seals over the small blub hole on the side. The paper likes to disintegrate and leave specks of white paint flecks inside the bezel that impossible to get out without separating the lens from the black plastic body. This this is really noticeable with the black background models. I think I can wet the paper seal with something like kerosene to make it easier to remove on the next set so it will release without leaving specks of white material inside the light.
If I remember correctly I spent something over $100 or more for NAPA "long lights" for low beam and the blue Xenon high beam lights to perform. It took a strange combination of bulbs to get something to works. I ended up soaking a lot more money into getting "the look" that it was most likely worth.
I recently purchased a set of stock looking Eagle Eyes to replace the stock lights on the 98 model GLE. I immediately applied the clear RTV around the seams since it looks like those seams would give trouble and leak like the R34s. Many of us here apply clear RTV around the seams on the clear or smoked corner lights to prevent leaks. I started using clear on the corner lights before I installed them a few years ago. So far it works.
I guess the bottom line is any non-OEM "value priced' replacement lights will require some attention to keep them from leaking. So you pay for it one way or another. Also, some don't mind "high maintenance" to get the look.
Last edited by CS_AR; Mar 3, 2019 at 07:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 207
Well stated Chris. I had to use a hacksaw and some tin snips in a couple of places on the tabs to get the lights to mount up on my 99 model. Don't plan on this being a smooth installation for a 97-99 model. I can't speak for 95-96.
We had a hard rain last night that would normally cause the passenger side light to take on water. Apparently, the clear permatex RTV treatment around the top seam took care of that leak because the lights are dry in the inside today. I'm glad because I was now looking forward to removing the light assemblies to reseal them. In fact, I bought a 2nd set of R34 lights to reseal with Morimoto the butyl and keep in reserve in the event these lights start giving me problems I can replace them.
One thing to watch out for with these lights is there are some paper tape seals over the small blub hole on the side. The paper likes to disintegrate and leave specks of white paint flecks inside the bezel that impossible to get out without separating the lens from the black plastic body. This this is really noticeable with the black background models. I think I can wet the paper seal with something like kerosene to make it easier to remove on the next set so it will release without leaving specks of white material inside the light.
If I remember correctly I spent something over $100 or more for NAPA "long lights" for low beam and the blue Xenon high beam lights to perform. It took a strange combination of bulbs to get something to works. I ended up soaking a lot more money into getting "the look" that it was most likely worth.
I recently purchased a set of stock looking Eagle Eyes to replace the stock lights on the 98 model GLE. I immediately applied the clear RTV around the seams since it looks like those seams would give trouble and leak like the R34s. Many of us here apply clear RTV around the seams on the clear or smoked corner lights to prevent leaks. I started using clear on the corner lights before I installed them a few years ago. So far it works.
I guess the bottom line is any non-OEM "value priced' replacement lights will require some attention to keep them from leaking. So you pay for it one way or another. Also, some don't mind "high maintenance" to get the look.
We had a hard rain last night that would normally cause the passenger side light to take on water. Apparently, the clear permatex RTV treatment around the top seam took care of that leak because the lights are dry in the inside today. I'm glad because I was now looking forward to removing the light assemblies to reseal them. In fact, I bought a 2nd set of R34 lights to reseal with Morimoto the butyl and keep in reserve in the event these lights start giving me problems I can replace them.
One thing to watch out for with these lights is there are some paper tape seals over the small blub hole on the side. The paper likes to disintegrate and leave specks of white paint flecks inside the bezel that impossible to get out without separating the lens from the black plastic body. This this is really noticeable with the black background models. I think I can wet the paper seal with something like kerosene to make it easier to remove on the next set so it will release without leaving specks of white material inside the light.
If I remember correctly I spent something over $100 or more for NAPA "long lights" for low beam and the blue Xenon high beam lights to perform. It took a strange combination of bulbs to get something to works. I ended up soaking a lot more money into getting "the look" that it was most likely worth.
I recently purchased a set of stock looking Eagle Eyes to replace the stock lights on the 98 model GLE. I immediately applied the clear RTV around the seams since it looks like those seams would give trouble and leak like the R34s. Many of us here apply clear RTV around the seams on the clear or smoked corner lights to prevent leaks. I started using clear on the corner lights before I installed them a few years ago. So far it works.
I guess the bottom line is any non-OEM "value priced' replacement lights will require some attention to keep them from leaking. So you pay for it one way or another. Also, some don't mind "high maintenance" to get the look.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 207
if possible can u send a link. I will be repainting the car pearl white on the 16th so I actually liked the clear look. Ha but yea if u could send the link!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 207
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 665
Had 2 different pairs from eBay in the last 2years (different batches/Chinese manufacturers, very slight differences such as the corners on one set had a reflector and the other one was just plain black) on 2 different 97-99 cars. They were very easy installs and fit like gloves.
Personally I always liked the black style more than the clear. And the light output is not going to be good because of the reflection pattern, which is concerning if you live in an area with deer. I retrofitted mine for the look of the halos and the outstanding light quality.
The rtv is gonna be a good idea, the seal between the housing and lens isn't very good and will let moisture in.
Personally I always liked the black style more than the clear. And the light output is not going to be good because of the reflection pattern, which is concerning if you live in an area with deer. I retrofitted mine for the look of the halos and the outstanding light quality.
The rtv is gonna be a good idea, the seal between the housing and lens isn't very good and will let moisture in.
Last edited by Violator; Mar 4, 2019 at 03:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 207
Had 2 different pairs from eBay in the last 2years (different batches/Chinese manufacturers, very slight differences such as the corners on one set had a reflector and the other one was just plain black) on 2 different 97-99 cars. They were very easy installs and fit like gloves.
Personally I always liked the black style more than the clear. And the light output is not going to be good because of the reflection pattern, which is concerning if you live in an area with deer. I retrofitted mine for the look of the halos and the outstanding light quality.
The rtv is gonna be a good idea, the seal between the housing and lens isn't very good and will let moisture in.
Personally I always liked the black style more than the clear. And the light output is not going to be good because of the reflection pattern, which is concerning if you live in an area with deer. I retrofitted mine for the look of the halos and the outstanding light quality.
The rtv is gonna be a good idea, the seal between the housing and lens isn't very good and will let moisture in.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 665
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
I think I'm running similar blue blubs for the high beam.
If I had it to over again, I would find a way to paint the white bulb socket for the corner lights black. It stands out like a sore thumb.
You can see it in this picture.
If I had it to over again, I would find a way to paint the white bulb socket for the corner lights black. It stands out like a sore thumb.
You can see it in this picture.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 207
they both look good. Yea the style does look nicee
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,543
Honestly, for the looks, it gives the front end a nice finish. I don't drive the maxi much at night, but if I do, the light output isn't the best but you can still drive and see at night. They're cheap anyways these days and if you have faded headlights, this will make the car look more refreshed.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 207
Honestly, for the looks, it gives the front end a nice finish. I don't drive the maxi much at night, but if I do, the light output isn't the best but you can still drive and see at night. They're cheap anyways these days and if you have faded headlights, this will make the car look more refreshed.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 363
From: AL
Are there any threads in the main chat about the transition? I've spent a couple minutes looking but haven't really dug in.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 207
Don't mean to hijack the thread but what happened? I know they switched to a new front end; guessing the back end changed too. I only noticed the history issue recently.
Are there any threads in the main chat about the transition? I've spent a couple minutes looking but haven't really dug in.
Are there any threads in the main chat about the transition? I've spent a couple minutes looking but haven't really dug in.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 363
From: AL
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
foreknowapparelworldwide
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
11
Jul 26, 2008 02:53 PM
Jepht20
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
8
Oct 8, 2004 08:32 PM