Questions for you direct port guys
02-07-2003, 10:17 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 446
Questions for you direct port guys
Well I guess these questions are directed mainly towards 1MAX2NV and JAMIECBR900 since they are the only two I know of running direct port, but if anyone else has any info please let me know.
1. I currently am running the NOS dry kit, does NOS or any other manufacturer for that matter make a conversion kit, or is just a matter of me tapping the manifold and adding a fuel solenoid?
2. How hard was it to tap the manifold and run/bend the hard lines, I have seen tony's setup in person and it just looks like it would be extremely difficult to make look neat.
I have more questions but I can't think of them at the moment, but any info would be greatly appreciated.
1. I currently am running the NOS dry kit, does NOS or any other manufacturer for that matter make a conversion kit, or is just a matter of me tapping the manifold and adding a fuel solenoid?
2. How hard was it to tap the manifold and run/bend the hard lines, I have seen tony's setup in person and it just looks like it would be extremely difficult to make look neat.
I have more questions but I can't think of them at the moment, but any info would be greatly appreciated.
02-08-2003, 06:40 AM
#2
Re: Questions for you direct port guys
I helped install one on a VR6 and it is not real easy. Drilling and tapping is pretty straight forward, just have to make sure you have a drill with a level or make a jig to get them all at the same angle etc.
Bending and flaring is also great fun, takes time and patience and a creative flare to have it look professional.
Its very time consuming if you want to do a good job and its not the kind of thing I would recommend to anyone who would post a "How do I install a FSTB" thread.
Very rewarding when you are finished though and everybody loves to look at the finished product.
This is a pic of the plumbing.
Bending and flaring is also great fun, takes time and patience and a creative flare to have it look professional.
Its very time consuming if you want to do a good job and its not the kind of thing I would recommend to anyone who would post a "How do I install a FSTB" thread.
Very rewarding when you are finished though and everybody loves to look at the finished product.
This is a pic of the plumbing.
02-08-2003, 11:50 PM
#3
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I have no idea as far as tapping the manifold since I didn't do it. You will need to pick up the tap from NOS since it's pretty hard to find. I would go to home depot and buy a block of aluminum or something that you can practice with. You have to make sure you tap it far enough so the nozzle's opening will come out the other side. As for the line, NOS sells a tube bender. I bought one and it works okay. Those line aren't as hard as you think. You can actually bend it with your fingers if you really want. Most of the lines are held by compression fitting so flaring isn't really necessary.
02-09-2003, 12:22 AM
#4
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
I have no idea as far as tapping the manifold since I didn't do it. You will need to pick up the tap from NOS since it's pretty hard to find. I would go to home depot and buy a block of aluminum or something that you can practice with. You have to make sure you tape it far enough so the nozzle's opening will come out the other size. As for the line, NOS sells a tube bender. I bought one and it works okay. Those line aren't as hard as you think. You can actually bend it with your fingers if you really want. Most of the lines are held by compression fitting so flaring isn't really necessary.
I have no idea as far as tapping the manifold since I didn't do it. You will need to pick up the tap from NOS since it's pretty hard to find. I would go to home depot and buy a block of aluminum or something that you can practice with. You have to make sure you tape it far enough so the nozzle's opening will come out the other size. As for the line, NOS sells a tube bender. I bought one and it works okay. Those line aren't as hard as you think. You can actually bend it with your fingers if you really want. Most of the lines are held by compression fitting so flaring isn't really necessary.
If the NOS fittings are compression it will certainly make the job a lot easier. Remember you have 12 lines on the manifold too. It will be difficult to get the 1/16 Tap too, ours came with the kit but they are extremely hard to find.
02-09-2003, 12:56 AM
#5
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Thanks for all your help, I will be getting an extra manifold to do this with so it will not be the end of the world if I mess up , but I will practice some before I do the job. I will probably stick with NOS since that is what I have already so I don't think flaring will be a problem, since it is compression. Also I have access to a very nice machine shop at my engineering school so tapping the manifold won't be a problem. I will order one of the line benders and taps along with the rest of the direst port kit, but thanks for all the info, and any help in the future would be great.
02-09-2003, 07:08 AM
#6
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Posts: 2,084
1Max hit it right on the head. With the NOS kit, you can certainly upgrade to a DPI. You have to buy additional solenoid (fuel) and the lines as well as the bender. I personally also did not tap into my manifold personally, as I wanted someone else to be responsible in case of a screw up. I bent the lines though and like Jim said, you have to take your time to make it look presentable. The lines are not hard to bend, you just have to have an idea of how you are going to do it before you start that way you know which direction to start bending the lines. One hint, bend the lines just slightly to begin with. You can put more bend on the lines, but it is a big no-no to try and bend a line back once bent. It will likely snap and have to start all over again. Just take your time. I took my intake to a machine shop and told them where and what angle to tap, and they did a great job.
Remember that you have to have a FPR, and you will run it at stock FP. Also if you have the 255 pump, you will likely have to downsize to the 190 pump. Don't use the stocker 190, because it won't work right. You have to get the Walbro. Remember also that you will need 12 jets now. Be sure and know which ones to buy for what shot you plan on running, so you don't waste your money.
Another hint, look at your car from under the hood. Look to see if the strut bar, hood, or anything else will be an obstruction. I had to get a little creative after I started because my distribution block was hitting the hood. I had to keep gradually bending those lines until it cleared. If something like that happens, make sure and be gentle when you first check everything. If I had slammed my hood down the first time, I probably would have messed up lots of hard work.
Remember that you have to have a FPR, and you will run it at stock FP. Also if you have the 255 pump, you will likely have to downsize to the 190 pump. Don't use the stocker 190, because it won't work right. You have to get the Walbro. Remember also that you will need 12 jets now. Be sure and know which ones to buy for what shot you plan on running, so you don't waste your money.
Another hint, look at your car from under the hood. Look to see if the strut bar, hood, or anything else will be an obstruction. I had to get a little creative after I started because my distribution block was hitting the hood. I had to keep gradually bending those lines until it cleared. If something like that happens, make sure and be gentle when you first check everything. If I had slammed my hood down the first time, I probably would have messed up lots of hard work.
02-09-2003, 11:15 AM
#7
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Join Date: May 2001
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Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
1Max hit it right on the head. With the NOS kit, you can certainly upgrade to a DPI. You have to buy additional solenoid (fuel) and the lines as well as the bender. I personally also did not tap into my manifold personally, as I wanted someone else to be responsible in case of a screw up. I bent the lines though and like Jim said, you have to take your time to make it look presentable. The lines are not hard to bend, you just have to have an idea of how you are going to do it before you start that way you know which direction to start bending the lines. One hint, bend the lines just slightly to begin with. You can put more bend on the lines, but it is a big no-no to try and bend a line back once bent. It will likely snap and have to start all over again. Just take your time. I took my intake to a machine shop and told them where and what angle to tap, and they did a great job.
Remember that you have to have a FPR, and you will run it at stock FP. Also if you have the 255 pump, you will likely have to downsize to the 190 pump. Don't use the stocker 190, because it won't work right. You have to get the Walbro. Remember also that you will need 12 jets now. Be sure and know which ones to buy for what shot you plan on running, so you don't waste your money.
Another hint, look at your car from under the hood. Look to see if the strut bar, hood, or anything else will be an obstruction. I had to get a little creative after I started because my distribution block was hitting the hood. I had to keep gradually bending those lines until it cleared. If something like that happens, make sure and be gentle when you first check everything. If I had slammed my hood down the first time, I probably would have messed up lots of hard work.
1Max hit it right on the head. With the NOS kit, you can certainly upgrade to a DPI. You have to buy additional solenoid (fuel) and the lines as well as the bender. I personally also did not tap into my manifold personally, as I wanted someone else to be responsible in case of a screw up. I bent the lines though and like Jim said, you have to take your time to make it look presentable. The lines are not hard to bend, you just have to have an idea of how you are going to do it before you start that way you know which direction to start bending the lines. One hint, bend the lines just slightly to begin with. You can put more bend on the lines, but it is a big no-no to try and bend a line back once bent. It will likely snap and have to start all over again. Just take your time. I took my intake to a machine shop and told them where and what angle to tap, and they did a great job.
Remember that you have to have a FPR, and you will run it at stock FP. Also if you have the 255 pump, you will likely have to downsize to the 190 pump. Don't use the stocker 190, because it won't work right. You have to get the Walbro. Remember also that you will need 12 jets now. Be sure and know which ones to buy for what shot you plan on running, so you don't waste your money.
Another hint, look at your car from under the hood. Look to see if the strut bar, hood, or anything else will be an obstruction. I had to get a little creative after I started because my distribution block was hitting the hood. I had to keep gradually bending those lines until it cleared. If something like that happens, make sure and be gentle when you first check everything. If I had slammed my hood down the first time, I probably would have messed up lots of hard work.
02-10-2003, 07:02 PM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,084
Originally posted by BJJ
Thanks for the tips, I havent upgraded my fuel pump yet for that exact reason, I didnt want to have to do it twice. BTW do you have a pics of your setup, that would help me out alot.
Thanks for the tips, I havent upgraded my fuel pump yet for that exact reason, I didnt want to have to do it twice. BTW do you have a pics of your setup, that would help me out alot.
If you have a high speed connection, I can send you some detailed shots. The only problem is that all those pics have not been fixed for emails and they are really big files. Great details, but a pain if no high speed.
Let me know if I can help.
02-10-2003, 07:13 PM
#9
Jaime if you want me to I can host pictures for you. I have space on vanillaice.com, or I can post on imageevent.com so people can download thumbs and full size pictures only if they want them.
-hype
-hype
02-10-2003, 07:25 PM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,084
Originally posted by xHypex
Jaime if you want me to I can host pictures for you. I have space on vanillaice.com, or I can post on imageevent.com so people can download thumbs and full size pictures only if they want them.
-hype
Jaime if you want me to I can host pictures for you. I have space on vanillaice.com, or I can post on imageevent.com so people can download thumbs and full size pictures only if they want them.
-hype
I have tons of pics of the engine. From very detailed pics to general. If you tell me how, I will do it.
Thanks.
02-10-2003, 07:33 PM
#11
Just email me the pictures, preferrably zipped. I'm sure I'll have plenty of nitrous questions soon, so you can preach all you wish 
You don't have AIM do you?
hype@vanillaice.com
-hype
You don't have AIM do you?
hype@vanillaice.com
-hype
02-10-2003, 07:41 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,084
Originally posted by xHypex
Just email me the pictures, preferrably zipped. I'm sure I'll have plenty of nitrous questions soon, so you can preach all you wish
You don't have AIM do you?
hype@vanillaice.com
-hype
Just email me the pictures, preferrably zipped. I'm sure I'll have plenty of nitrous questions soon, so you can preach all you wish
You don't have AIM do you?
hype@vanillaice.com
-hype
02-10-2003, 10:04 PM
#15
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 446
Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
I have some really detailed ones, even side view, that would show you just about anything you wanted to see. If interested, let me know.
I have some really detailed ones, even side view, that would show you just about anything you wanted to see. If interested, let me know.
02-11-2003, 10:33 AM
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,084
Originally posted by BJJ
Thanks, the pics in your sig helped out a bunch, I like the way you seperated the distribution blocks(I think that is what they are called), it looks alot easier and cleaner when they are seperated like that instead of stacked on top of each other. Also if you have any pics of a close up of the solenoid location, I couldn't tell how you mounted them from the pics in the sig.
Thanks, the pics in your sig helped out a bunch, I like the way you seperated the distribution blocks(I think that is what they are called), it looks alot easier and cleaner when they are seperated like that instead of stacked on top of each other. Also if you have any pics of a close up of the solenoid location, I couldn't tell how you mounted them from the pics in the sig.
I wanted the solenoids to be easy access in case I needed something. I have the filter mounted right underneath both solenoids, and that is my Stillen FPR (the blue thing to the left and down of the solenoids). My purge is mounted near there too.
02-14-2003, 09:33 AM
#17
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Join Date: May 2001
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Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
I just fabricated a little "perch" for both the solenoids to sit on. It is held there by an already existing nut/bolt on the intake plenum. I fashioned it kinda like the "perch" for the microswitch. Just a straight piece of aluminum, with the holes underneath to hold the solenoids in place. As a matter of fact, I think the piece even came already with my kit, and I just did a little "engineering" to it to make it fit in there.
I wanted the solenoids to be easy access in case I needed something. I have the filter mounted right underneath both solenoids, and that is my Stillen FPR (the blue thing to the left and down of the solenoids). My purge is mounted near there too.
I just fabricated a little "perch" for both the solenoids to sit on. It is held there by an already existing nut/bolt on the intake plenum. I fashioned it kinda like the "perch" for the microswitch. Just a straight piece of aluminum, with the holes underneath to hold the solenoids in place. As a matter of fact, I think the piece even came already with my kit, and I just did a little "engineering" to it to make it fit in there.
I wanted the solenoids to be easy access in case I needed something. I have the filter mounted right underneath both solenoids, and that is my Stillen FPR (the blue thing to the left and down of the solenoids). My purge is mounted near there too.
Well I just picked up a Stillen FPR for a good price, you have any tips for the install or did Stillen do a pretty good job designing this one, I just don't want any suprises when I get around to putting it in. Also how do you like it, all the other products I have gotten form Stillen have been top notch so I am hopeing the same for this one.
02-14-2003, 09:42 AM
#18
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Posts: 2,084
Originally posted by BJJ
Well I just picked up a Stillen FPR for a good price, you have any tips for the install or did Stillen do a pretty good job designing this one, I just don't want any suprises when I get around to putting it in. Also how do you like it, all the other products I have gotten form Stillen have been top notch so I am hopeing the same for this one.
Well I just picked up a Stillen FPR for a good price, you have any tips for the install or did Stillen do a pretty good job designing this one, I just don't want any suprises when I get around to putting it in. Also how do you like it, all the other products I have gotten form Stillen have been top notch so I am hopeing the same for this one.
In one of the pics I sent you, there should be a pic of where I installed mine. If not, I have a close-up of how mine is.
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