Nitrous Newbie...
09-28-2003, 02:06 PM
#1
Nitrous Newbie...
Hey guys I just purchased this nitrous kit on eBay. I may run this on my Maxima or an Acura Legend. Just wondering what else I need to run this setup safely (gauges, purge etc) and how much they should run me. I'm trying to keep this setup under $500 if possible.
Thanks,
-Cyrus
Thanks,
-Cyrus
09-28-2003, 04:39 PM
#3
Originally Posted by WizzaMax
brand of kit may help us make suggestions...
I have not seen a generic white box with black letters kit that says NITROUS on it.
I have not seen a generic white box with black letters kit that says NITROUS on it.
It is a N.O.S. #5122 kit with an Edelbrock bottle heater.
-Cyrus
09-29-2003, 04:30 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: NJ
Posts: 5,630
That might be a dry kit.
You will want a window switch. If you get a MSD unit, you have to get it programed for individual coil packs (1cyl) and that use to cost $30. Not sure how much now.
You will need pills for the window switch.
Purge valve is optional. Few years ago this costed me $100
Bottle heater is very important. Want to keep a steady bottle pressure. Not sure what these go for anymore.
Nitrous pressure gauge as well. $40.
For tuning, consider a EGT & Fuel Pressure. A A/F gauge is useless unless it runs off its own o2 sensor.
A blowdown tube is optional. Some tracks require it.
You will want a window switch. If you get a MSD unit, you have to get it programed for individual coil packs (1cyl) and that use to cost $30. Not sure how much now.
You will need pills for the window switch.
Purge valve is optional. Few years ago this costed me $100
Bottle heater is very important. Want to keep a steady bottle pressure. Not sure what these go for anymore.
Nitrous pressure gauge as well. $40.
For tuning, consider a EGT & Fuel Pressure. A A/F gauge is useless unless it runs off its own o2 sensor.
A blowdown tube is optional. Some tracks require it.
09-29-2003, 07:03 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Synki
That might be a dry kit.
Originally Posted by Synki
You will want a window switch. If you get a MSD unit, you have to get it programed for individual coil packs (1cyl) and that use to cost $30. Not sure how much now.
You will need pills for the window switch.
You will need pills for the window switch.
Originally Posted by Synki
Purge valve is optional. Few years ago this costed me $100
Originally Posted by Synki
Bottle heater is very important. Want to keep a steady bottle pressure. Not sure what these go for anymore.
Originally Posted by Synki
Nitrous pressure gauge as well. $40.
As for the other gauges and blow-down tube, I'm trying to keep cost to a minimum so I think I will put those off. If any of them are crucial for a safe setup please let me know and I'll make sure to get them, but as of right now it seems like another $100 I'd be pointlessly blowing since I'm not tuning it.
-Cyrus
09-30-2003, 02:44 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: NJ
Posts: 5,630
The window switch is what triggers (besides the WOT switch and FPSS) the nitrous to kick on and shut of at the certain rpms. The rpms are adjusted with "pills".
Yes, you can just arm the nitrous and floor it real quick but make sure you stop spraying once you are off the throttle (WOT that is) and clear out the old nitrous.
Idealy around 900-950 is what you want. I use to ran 1100psi. Remember, the higher the bottle pressure the bigger the shot turns into.
Lets say you have a 50 shot jet in (that 50 shot is rated at 950~ or so psi) but if you run 1100psi, that shot is more like a 70-75 shot. Just make sure you run a the Walbro 255lph fuel pump to support the nitrous.
A nitrous pressure gauge is alway good to have so you know what psi you are at. That is something you should get.
It is also very important to have the EGT and FP gauge. That will let you know how rich you are running and lean. You need to watch the FP. If the furl pressure starts to fluxuate, then you will have problems - esp spraying. Big problems.
LMK if you have any other questions. I have numerous posts regarding my old nitrous setup on this forum. Probably at least 2 years ago.
Cheers.
Yes, you can just arm the nitrous and floor it real quick but make sure you stop spraying once you are off the throttle (WOT that is) and clear out the old nitrous.
Idealy around 900-950 is what you want. I use to ran 1100psi. Remember, the higher the bottle pressure the bigger the shot turns into.
Lets say you have a 50 shot jet in (that 50 shot is rated at 950~ or so psi) but if you run 1100psi, that shot is more like a 70-75 shot. Just make sure you run a the Walbro 255lph fuel pump to support the nitrous.
A nitrous pressure gauge is alway good to have so you know what psi you are at. That is something you should get.
It is also very important to have the EGT and FP gauge. That will let you know how rich you are running and lean. You need to watch the FP. If the furl pressure starts to fluxuate, then you will have problems - esp spraying. Big problems.
LMK if you have any other questions. I have numerous posts regarding my old nitrous setup on this forum. Probably at least 2 years ago.
Cheers.
10-01-2003, 06:47 AM
#10
I would get one becasue my stock fuel pump was acting up and wasn't providing enought fuel pressure under wot. If I wouldn't have had my fp gauge I would have not known that and could of had my car lean out.
10-01-2003, 09:22 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: NJ
Posts: 5,630
Originally Posted by SonicDust187
Synki, when I am off the bottle and go wot my fuel pressure quickly goes from around 44.x to 43 range. Is this ok? I also have the Walbro 190 non high pressure pump.
When I was running my 255lph fuel pump, I was at exactly what you were. Its a little rich but nothing to worry about. Its not running rich enough to constantly foul out your plugs.
When I was on the 100 shot (dry), I was around 75-80psi on my fuel pressure gauge.
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