Tonight I loaded a fresh 15lb bottle, heated it up to pressure, added another 3 gallons of VP MS109, and went for a drive. The highways are mostly being repaired this time of the year, so I took what on-ramps and straight streets I could find.

The Maximizer is presently tuned and programmed for RPM control. The throttle must be WOT and then at 3500 spray starts at 20% ( the system is jetted for 75-shot) and goes up to 100% at 6000, with cutoff at 6400. In first gear I went WOT about 4000 and the car immediately started pulling harder and harder, banged into second, started pulling again harder and harder and just had room to bang into third gear before I had to let off. Whew.

The car mostly kept traction while pulling up to shift-point. It would be easy to change the spray timing to increase faster, up to the limit of traction in each gear. I'm satisfied - it works as promised - and makes the car much more driveable on the street. I gotta get on a track with this.



Hmmmm... IFO is happening on Oct. 9th at KCIR. I wonder if I could get the 4000-stall converter installed by then, along with true racing NGK plugs and the 150-shot jets. ???

 

I had another question about VQ30 timing from Fusionworks, today.


"Do you know the actual pattern of your crank and cam?"

I told them that the sensors had been mapped by an ORG member and that I would try to locate that information.

 

No idea about the cam.

But the crank was figured out via calculus, take the difference between two teeth, then use some formula associated w/ sin-1/360 to figure out the pattern, I need to brush up on calc because Engg Dynamics is going to kick my @$$!

 

About the NX Maximizer 3 - I had a thought this morning about how to solve a problem I'm going to have. I need to launch into first gear and go thru it at not more than 75-shot - otherwise the slicks break loose and just spin. Into second gear and beyond, I can spray about 150-175 shot based on previous experience. I used to use two separate stages to do that, but with only one direct-port stage, I'm stuck with whatever jets I install and program the Maximizer to do - but it only has one program per stage - and each stage requires separate solenoids and other plumbing.

However, it does have those two stages which can be programmed separately, using different RPM points and levels of spray. The Max 3 has a feature called First Gear Lockout which blocks anything from spraying until you're into second gear. If the output of both stages can be combined, then maybe the first stage can be set to go up to 50% of a 150-shot and the second stage can be set to spray from 50% to 100% of the 150-shot, with the first-gear lockout set...

So I asked that question of NX today but haven't got an answer yet. I thought of a way to combine both stages to run just one pair of solenoids. I used two 25-amp diodes inside a 25-amp bridge rectifier module. Quite simple, and when I went for a drive tonight, the setup worked just fine. I'm going to have to tweak the spray limits and the shift points, but IT WORKS! Hmmm... Maybe I can sell this idea back to NX!

Ist stage programming




2nd stage programming with 1st-gear lockout



The rectifier that merges both stages into one pair of solenoids

 

The 4000-stall IPT converter goes in Tuesday. The 150-shot jets go in Wednesday. I go to IFO on Sunday the 9th.

 

Sunday sounds good to me

 

Sweet!

Let me know how the import face off goes.

 

Can't tear it down and drive it hard on the same day......

 

Nissan 350z Vehicle Hazards!

Postby HaltechScott on Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:41 am
The Platinum Sport/Sprint 1.09 Firmware/Software now supports the Nissan 350z/HR trigger type. Below is a list of info and things we have noticed that may come in handy if you are fitting an ECU to this engine family.

Haltech Specific:
Tooth offset for VQ35 350z = 3
Tooth offset for VQ35 FWD Maxima = 0
If the engine is syncing (correct cam/crank trigger) the Triggers Per home will read - 1,2,3,4,5,6,1,2,3,4,5,6 etc.
If it is not syncing it will read 7 all the time (RPM will read accurately).

I have attached a tuned 350z map to this post to help with the trigger settings. Please note if the ECU is used in stand alone mode you weill need to turn the trigger and home pull up's on. If you use the ECU in piggyback mode you will need to leave the trigger and home pull ups off (Failure to do this will result in NO RPM)
Also attached to this post is a scope trace of what the Crank/Cam signals should look like, as well as a picture of an aftermarket flywheel brand showing 2 different dowel holes depending on if the engine is FWD or RWD.

The engine may have a sync problem if:
Timing chain is fitted incorrectly
Wrong flywheel is being used (Please do not mix and match 350z and Maxima flywheels)
Flywheel is mounted incorrectly (do not remove any locating dowels)
Very small scratches or dents on the flywheel can cause trigger problems, make sure the flywheel is in good condition.
The Crank sensor (mounted in the bell housing) is notoriously bad and is often replaced in factory applications

Wiring is as follows:

Trigger - Crank sensor (In the side of the bell housing)
Home - Bank 1 Inlet cam sensor
Timed input 1 - Bank 2 Inlet cam sensor
DPO3 - Intake Cam solinoid Bank 1
DPO4 - Intake Cam solinoid Bank 2

At least it's been done before..... NOTE: Haltech web site is down today..??

 

This is 350z Sensors and trigger patterns.....



So what are you trying to do?

Run VQ30 with 35 cam sensors, and 35 crank sensor, w 35 timing ring?



OR run haltech on vq30 sensors?



I just look into running haltech on vq30 sensors.


EDIT: that tooth offset is because the VQ35 RWD and FWD have different flywheel alignments.

 

Hi - what I want to do is run the Haltech 2000 on what I have installed - using the 3.5 cam sensors in the heads and the 3.0 front pulley's crank timing ring, so I don't have to make a custom trigger wheel that matches the 3.5 flex plate timing. It would be great if the Haltech would directly interface to the 3.0 sensors, but I don't think that's going to happen. The 3.0 cam sensors patterns are weird - look in the FSM. The flex plate has a non-keyed 180 tooth pattern that I think is used for RPM data. Time will tell - and Haltech's web site has been down so I can't locate other real Haltech dealers to talk to - but I will.

Any good ideas are appreciated...

 

IMO


See if you can get haltech to support the VQ30 as in. You should contact them directly.



If thats a total dead end, then look into the combo of stuff.

 

That might be easier if someone could find Dandymax's original graphs of the VQ30 that he used to get the Greddy EU to work with the VQ30.

Anyone that has a 3.5 in a 4th gen car with 3.0 timing could benefit from a Haltech.

Haltech is now back up.... and....now they're gone again. It looks like Haltech is changing how they host their web site, but it was up last night.



Oh, FWIW, Haltech is located in Australia - talking to them directly would be - interesting..... and I don't speak Aussie, either.

 

I was talking to a racer friend of mine this AM, who has a '06 Mustang with a completely built 4.7 and a huge Procharger. He has dynoed with normal premium fuel at about 540 WHP, then he switched to methanol and picked up about 40WHP, then switched to E85 and picked up over 100WHP. Last week he went to HPT on a private tuning session and ran 11.02 sec. on their 1/4 mile NHRA track. On E85 - with a wheelstand at launch - with a baby seat in the back - in his fully stock-appearing Mustang that he and his wife drive around.

He told me that E85 is the secret, he has switched from VP MS109 to E85 - and I'm right behind him if I can get a Haltech working.

 

Exactly my thinking, try 3.0 sensors and itll help out a lot of people!

And Haltech has a office in Here in USDA. Ive been talking to a guy for a while directly. Its not a problem at all to contact Haltech.


USA

Location: 707 Downs Ave, Suite 140, Lexington KY 40505 USA

Phone: 760 598 1941

Fax: 760 598 1987

Orders and sales enquiries: click here



Its actually right down the road from Injected Performance!


contact haltech directly man! Go to the source.




OH yes E85 woudl be so much more fun!!! Check it out on Z's and GTR's. But you have to have a source for it!

 

I'm still hoping that the 3.0/3.5 timing combination will work. If you're working Haltech for the 3.0 hookup, then keep going with that approach. I'll continue with the 3.0/3.5 combination.

We have three reliable sources of E85 locally - big and new Phillips 66 stations, so it should be available for a while - plus I have a kit to check it, so I feel comfortable with pursuing it.

 

OK, with the 30/3.5 your gonna have to mess with the flex plate ring.

Im def not working on a haltech 3.0 i have not much vq30 info.


Well SOMEONE with a Vq30 that wants haltech needs to talk to them about it. no need to run 3.0/3.5 when you could run vq30 sensors and be done.



If you can get E85 then yes def go for it!! All i know is it requires a lot more fuel but it makes a lot more power!!

 

Funny thing - yesterday I emailed a detailed message to usa@haltech.com and it was rejected. I guess more problems with their web site upgrades. ???

E85 requires about 20-25% more fuel than gas alone, which impacts injectors and fuel pump and ECU tuning, but it has 105 octane and starts much easier than methanol.

 

I tried emailing Haltech USA again last night, and the the email was rejected again. Sigh... I'm going to try and contact other Haltech dealers in OK and TX and see what they can do - if anything. If it ain't a 350Z, they don't know what to do.

I took the car and the new torque converter for a drive last night, and found that the TC stalled at.... ,3000 RPM..... the same as the Edge I just replaced. Obviously IPT didn't do anything for me when they modified the other Edge converter.

I did experiment with launching on partial throttle and that felt stronger than WOT, but it still feels kinda puny until it hits 4500 RPMs. I'm thinking about re-jetting for 150-shot and going to KCIR tonight and experimenting with programming the spray levels up through the gears - probably keeping it down to 100-shot maximum - since I don't have any control over ignition advance.

Unless I can get it together, I'm going to skip IFO at KCIR this Sunday - it usually takes a while -months- to get a new combination sorted out and right now I'm not ready for IFO.

 

I went to KCIR last night - one attempted burnout and I don't have a VLSD anymore. It hopped and shook side to side - and didn't want to move much at all. I swapped off the slicks this afternoon and while the car was in the air I moved the drag radials back and forth on both sides. Passenger side - rotate the tire forward, the driver's side spins backward. Move the passenger side backwards - driver's side doesn't move at all! Same thing when I rotate the driver's side wheel. It's toast.


I'm getting very tired of factory parts breaking down - fix and improve one thing, something else breaks. These cars really are made for 180 hp - anything else and parts fail. To quote Yoda, "there is another" - for next season. I'm done for this season. In the meantime I'll look at Chevys....

 

Yeah I know how broken parts go.

My car will be on its third transmission now.
Maximas don't like being beat on.

What kinda chevy? I may be able to help.

 

Ever thought about cryo-ing your transmission? There's a great racer's shop in Marysville KS that does the deed. I can't cryo a VLSD cause of the sticky goo inside - but I can make a welded spool out of one. Only stock part left in the drive train, so of course it breaks.

My original Chevy plan was for a Merlin Gen 3 572 in a gutted Nova - probably buy a roller cheap and build it out, if this stupid Maxima can't stay in one piece. You can't get a real standalone ECU, the transmissions are weak-sauce, and if it wasn't for the 350Z, you can't build a serious engine. And yes, I'm grumpy about the whole thing.

Plus Friday overnight, a massive 20 ft limb snapped off the front oak tree and is now standing upright and held there by another branch at the upper end.

 

This tip is all that's holding up this 25 ft oak limb...





This limb comes down on Monday morning.

 

572 in a nova sounds nice!

 

What did you break in your 6mt? I only broke the selector which was why I lost 4th, I somehow still have all of my teeth on the shafts.

So now I have spare gears n synchros

 

Hmmm..... maybe... get a 6mt HLSD, replace all the gears and synchros, and cryo the whole thing, then install it in my car ??? Along with a nice light flywheel and a tough clutch.... Hmmmmmm.... maybe this is the answer to my transmission and torque converter problems ??? along with an Emerald K6 ECU ?

 

You would want a Steel flywheel from a 350z, for those 60fts.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/s...8-p-79349.html

Same weight as the stock flywheel (40lbs-ish)

All you have to do is modify where teh CPS goes a little bit and you're able to use Z flywheels.

Ah yes I was looking at it, looks great! but the help I have here locally for it is non existant, and I'm not that bright when it comes to doing that ECU stuff :

 

I think I would want a 3.0 timing ring on a flywheel - Oh, wait, you know how to do that! - gotta keep the old ECU alive too, you know.. since the K6 has a selection of trigger wheels available, and the other features look good, maybe the forum Emerald guy would know what to do. I think I'll ask.

And I bet you know how to do those 6mt installs, too. Hmmmm... you might be useful.

 

Me? Useful? Why I'd never.....

 

What happens in Topeka stays in Topeka......

 

 

 

I hung up the last engine (the 12.35sec one) and attached it to the engine stand, removed the valvecovers and eyeballed the cams, removed all the plugs (they all looked good - cyl#1 bent a valve or something) and got my TDC probe out, then hunted for the degree wheel everywhere, but no joy. I was online and getting ready to order another one from Jegs - but had a thought and went back to the garage and found it - so tomorrow I'll check the cam timing against the installed engine. I gotta fix that bog on launch, so that's where I'll start.

I'm also going to drain the last transmission and dissect it enough to take out the VLSD differential and eyeball it. I still don't understand how it works, but if it's good, it's going in the IPT transmission. I don't have all of that figured out yet, but I'll do something.

 

FROM MY LAME UNDERSTANDING!

VLSD works like a weird clutch, the slipping in either wheels causes the viscous material to heat up which increases the friction and makes the axle act like a posi.

Thing is the viscous coupling materials can over heat and fail... Which in your case may have happened????

HLSD is all mechanical, every time it gets explained to me I always end up with a dumb look on my face and my mouth open drooling.

All I know is... I like it.

 

The viscous (vicious instead?) coupling probably failed - the car jumps traction back and forth between the front wheels, but still drove well enough to get on and off the trailer. I think the VLSD part is ruptured - that's mentioned in the FSM. If's that's what happened, then a little work with an arc welder on the diffy gears will buff that right out - or fill the coupling with JB Weld ??? HLSD is FM - and way too much work for me right now.

I'm also looking forward to comparing cam timing on the two engines - something is wrong with my new engine, with the bog on launch. The last engine was a beast off the line, but ran out of breath at the top end. Funny thing is that all six plugs from that engine looked great - no signs of preignition or detonation at combined 100-shot + 100-shot spray! (which was too much to launch with - massive slick spin) I think the head gasket blew on #1, cause there was water in the exhaust port. I miss that engine.

No response of any kind from Haltech, so far.

 

I did some stuff this weekend. I opened up the last 3.5 and made some brackets for a dial indicator to make measurements on the intake and exhaust lobes for cylinder # 1 and # 2.

I also hoisted up the dead VLSD automatic, drained it, then set it up to loosen all the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the main gearbox, pulled off the bellhousing and pulled out the VLSD differential. I think that one's going in the IPT transmission if I can figure out how to do this.

Pix for the cam degreeing process using my homemade mount with vice grips:












I'm going to make a comparison chart for the Cosworth cam and eBay S1 cam timing - details to follow.

 

I drained the tranny then pulled the bellhousing, then lifted out the VLSD to check it out. This tranny only had 30+K on it when I installed it, and it blew on the second track visit - it couldn't hold the 175-shot spray.











Maybe you can see the three sets of splines in there... this diffy still looks good.

 

Tonight I graphed the measurements I had made on cam timing on two engines. Ont the old engine with eBay cams, since it's on the stand, I measured the intake cams on both cylinder #1 and #2. I had degreed only cylinder #1 on the new engine with the Cosworth cams.

Since the diagram is hand-drawn, that's what it looks like. Interesting that both engines' cams had the same points of maximum lift on intake and exhaust. Opening and closing was measured at the point of any movement of the lifter, measured by the dial indicator gauge. Cam durations changes somewhat on the eBay cams, possibly due to differences in the valve lash. I didn't measure the actual lift. Measured LSA was different than I thought it was - 114*.

I feel that the new engine has the correct valve timing for a 272* cam set, so I see no reason to tear it down and change things...

 

Now I know that my timing chains have not skipped a tooth and that cam timings of two different 3.0/3/5 engines are the same. Since I have experienced serious bogging at launch with the new engine and setup, I've Googled a lot lately, but narrowed the search to maxima.org finally. Too many references to carburetors,,,, There seem to be two major possibilities - MAF and O2 sensors. There's a thread on here that discusses MAF issues, and one member told of his throttle problems with bogging at low RPMs - until he swapped his MAF with one from his dad's Maxima w/70K miles, and the problem cleared up completely. I have two MAFs that I use, one with a cone filter that sucks hot air from the engine compartment, and another KramRam setup that breathes outside air from under the hood. That one is the one I use at the strip - and that's the one that bogs like crazy. I know I also have one flaky O2 sensor right now.

I still have to replace the blown VLSD before I can test anything, but in the meantime I'll order a brand-new OEM MAF and some O2 sensors and get prepared for a few tests - and logging with ECUTalk on a laptop. I also bought a used OEM MAF through eBay ($50 for MAF and airbox) as another way to cross-check, and have some quality O2 sensors on the Watch list.

With just a 75-shot set of jets, and bogging and banging on the throttle in first gear, once I got into 2nd, the car ran 108mph in the quarter.

 

I just received a used MAF and airbox thru eBay for $50, so I decided to try it out tonight on the Shark. First I goosed the car with the KramRam MAF connected. When I hit the throttle hard and open to about 50%, I could feel the engine hesitate and the PLX A/F meter dipped very low then jumped up way over 19 when I let up. At idle the A/F settled between 13.8 and 12.1.

I installed the MAF with the cone filter and did the same. This one felt crisper and hit fuel-cut easier. The A/F still jumped around about the same, but it felt better, although there was some bog initially. The idle A/F was also low and erratic. Both MAFs had the Tune-by-Tape installed.

I swapped out the last MAF and tried the same thing and got even worse results -but DUH! I didn't have the Tape mod, so I put on a wider piece of Gorilla tape and went through the same ritual of playing with the throttle - only this time things settled down much better. The A/F didn't drop below 12:1 and idled about 15 - flashing the throttle raised it back up to 17 or so, but still much better. The idle was much smoother, too.

I think the bogging problem is being caused by higher airflow with the new Altima UIM/LIM, Cosworth heads and bigger TB. When you blip the throttle, more air than normal is pulled through the MAF and dumps more fuel in the engine. A lot more...

I definitely have one or two erratic O2 sensors, so replacing them is next. Maybe I can avoid spending $300 on a brand-new Nissan MAF. I sure hope so...