BACON ! and KState is going to the Cotton Bowl this year.....

 

I guess the remaining question is " will an open diff fit into a VLSD transmission" ??? 'cause I have a fully built one that I really don't want to change. I guess I can check to see if bearings are the same P/N between the two.....

 

I bet it does.

The HLSD fit in my open diff 6 speed. Hopefully it's the same for your auto.

By the way, I finished up my transmission.
Now I just gotta put it back in the car and its time to have fun again.

 

I dunno - the driver's side axles and axle seals on the transmission are way different. I still need to check bearings.

Did you graft a HLSD into a open diff transmission? How about the same things - axles and seals on the 6th gen tranny ???

EDIT: The ring-gear-side bearings are different. The diffs are not interchangeable. Krapp.....

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...2024_2044.html

 

The HLSD fits perfectly into the open diff tranny. The seals and axles will work too.

 

I doubt it, because of the openings for the transmission are different.... Now if you were to acquire an open diff transmission housing......

 

? you talking about 4-5th gen or 6th gen transmissions ?

 

4th-5th!!

 

Only if I could acquire an open diff transmission included with the housing, already fully built by IPT... otherwise it's just a shell. This isn't going to happen. Back to pouring bronze.....

 

I like this idea!

 

One of the local racers suggested that he try to find the bearings to adapt an open diff to my VLSD cases. That's creative.... and not knowing the dimensions of the open diff, kinda risky. If he does find something, guess I'll have to come up with an open diff for experimenting and try the Jime method of locking a differential using a large welder!

On another subject, my local shop had a Rolls Royce in for a brake job. Guess what the parts alone cost for that car? $22,000..... 6 calipers... including $600 for the brake fluid!

 

A engineer here at work had an idea about the VLSD diff - drill four holes in the diff case so that a very tough steel pin can be pressed through each hole and between teeth of each pinion gear, then weld each pin to the diff housing. Sounds like this might work !

 

That sounds like it could work.

A big welder is a better idea I think. Remember, a welded joint is very strong. If the weld is done right, it should not crack at the weld, it should crack in another place.

Basically I mean, if welded right, there would be absolutely no problems with it breaking.

 

I took another close look at the VLSD diff living in my garage, and the diff case is really thick steel around the pinion cross. Lots of steel to support the pins. I think that drilling four holes in the case in positions to push a 1/4" or 3/8" hardened steel pin into the holes and between the pinion gears is do-able. If there is some interference, the pin can be ground down a bit to clear the teeth. Drive the pins into the holes for an interference fit and TIG them in place, and I'm locked! Sounds like a job for my machinist.....

 

Cool, give it a shot!

 

I took one of the bad diffs to my machinist today, and he got back to me after he opened up everything. He found that the LSD module had the inner splined gear (the one on the outside driver's side) broken loose inside the LSD module so that the LSD module was free-wheeling on the axle. Very strange... That's two of those I've broken.

I'm going to meet with him tomorrow and decide what to do about that diff. He said he could machine out around the broken gear so that he could TIG weld it back on, locking the differential. At this point, I'm up for welding everything that moves inside the differential. We'll see what comes from tomorrow's meeting.

 

Sounds like a good idea to me! Stronger the better!

 

Four pix of the inside of the VLSD diff. The first photo shows the inside collar of the VLSD module - the part in the middle that has four grooves and a spline for the axle. That part now spins inside the main VLSD housing - obviously something inside is broken loose. This will have a groove machined around it and then TIG welded to the main housing. This will make it a locker without welding the spyder gears to the diff housing. Welding up those gears would be difficult because that part of the housing is really stuffed with gears. At least the VLSD module was only held in position by two flathead bolts, accessable after the ring gear was removed. No bearings were pulled to get this far.

I have a call into the Marysville KS cryo shop to get the entire assembly treated after welding and before re-assembly.

http://www.performancecryogenics.org/

 

Merry Xmas!

I was looking around for a bigger fuel pump to feed huge nitrous jets, and I see that both Aeromotive and Walbro have come out with monster in-tank pumps!

The Walbro looks like more work to install but has a larger flow. The Aeromotive pump might come closer to fitting in the tank. At least we have more choices now.....


Walbro 400 LPH

http://www.full-race.com/store/fuel-...ro-400lph.html

Aeromotive 11142

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...-offset-inlet/

 

Merry Christmas!

That walbro pump is nice!

 

Update - We're waiting on the welder to do the TIG weld on the broken VLSD so I can have a locked spool. Everybody's holiday schedules are adding up to delays on the machine/weld/cryo diff project. Oh, well.


New NX product - Maximizer 4 -for much better control of nitrous:

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/produc...ls.php?id=1607

Looks like a good way to switch over to E85:
The box will plug into existing injector connectors and has an adjustable 0%-27% wider pulse to the injector - just what you need for E85! Yum - nitrous with all E85 and no race fuel!

http://www.e85converterkits.com/stor...tning6Cylinder




I've also figured out a way to use the 2-stage maximizer 3 and 4 to provide throttle-base spray in first gear and switch to RPM-based spray in 2nd-4th gears ! A simple logic circuit that watches the A and B solenoids for the first-gear voltages will pull in a relay that switches between Maximizer Stage 1 and Stage 2 will work nicely.

 

Your car working yet? Hows the tranny?

Somes up my feelings about you doing more crazy things to this car.

And then on top of that you still haven't boosted it yet

 

It's all part of my master plan to get a bulletproof car (that takes 600WHP without breaking stuff) has total control of any nitrous, and runs completely on E85, so I can run on pump fuel and RMT turbo at 25 psi without an intercooler, and get to a Haltech with absolute control of ignition and injectors. Should be simple, right?

Getting the diff welded and cryoed is one step, The nitrous controller update is the second, the E85 conversion is the third, somwhere in there is a Haltech, and then it's turbo time! Unless I think of something else...

 

Today I picked up the welded diff from the machinist, fully assembled and ready for cryoing and installation soon. The rotating inner plate was machined around with a 1/8" groove then TIG welded twice over, then machined flush with the plate. This suckar ain't breakin' !




The Before:




Ooohhh..... shiny.....




Maybe I need one of these - but not the undersized version. Stock belts are simpler...

 

Interesting, I havent been keeping up but just read the last two pages. Tranny issues suck!

What are the plans for the tuning?

 

My ideal solution would be a Haltech Sport 2000, because of the total control over ignition and fuel, but I tried earlier to find a dealer that would install one based on the 3.0 timing sensors and drew a blank. I got the feeling that the shops that handle Haltech in Kansas, Oklahoma, and Nebraska only do P-n-P installs. Texas/Dallas shops are next, I guess.

Dandymax was kind enough to send me his original timing diagrams for his 3.0 that he used for the Greddy EU programs - but Haltech doesn't seem to recognize those sensors. The OEM crank pulley has a 120* set of three tabs plus one for home position that should be usable, and with 3.5 heads I have the possibility of 3.5 intake and exhaust cams sensors that could be used. Haltech really wants you to use a trigger wheel that is solid aluminum with rare-earth magnets drilled into the wheel for more reliable timing.

I'll work on a package of information with the timing graphs that I can use for Email conversations with regional Haltech dealers. Gotta be a solution somewhere - this engine begs for higher RPMS, just coming on the cams at 4500, and the engine is built for 8K plus.....

 

What if you swap to the 3.5 Crank Pulley? Then you could run it like a Z?

 

Nope - the 3.5 crank pulley doesn't have any timing tabs on it (and I have a couple here as leftovers) but instead they use a different flywheel timing ring, along with the cam sensors in the heads for their ECU timing reference points. The 3.5 timing ring is totally different than the 95-01 version on the 3.0. You can have one or the other, but not both together - plus the sensor is in the same location for both, so that's out - and the 3.5 flywheel is keyed to the crank, unlike the 3.0.

Life would be much simpler if I could use the Haltech on the 3.0 flywheel...

 

You should be able to do this if they can get VQ30 support on the PS2000. Contact HALTECH about this.


Sending that same stuff that was sent to Greddy for the emanage should be enough.

 

Remember what Dandymax went through to get Greddy to make the EU compatible with the VQ30? Months of back-and-forth discussions and preliminary tests and measurements went by before Greddy got something to work... I don't have that much spare time to waste, and no confidence that Haltech will spend that much time on the VQ30. Haltech didn't answer my Emails, so dealing with them doesn't seem likely.

What they do have is a product configured to work with the 350Z, which uses the cam sensors and the crank sensor. I have the cam sensors in place, but nothing for the crank sensor pattern, which is three groups of 10 pulses in one rotation. (I think it's 10 - I have one in the garage to check). I need that pulse pattern on the crank - but maybe it doesn't have to be on the flywheel/flex-plate. What if I installed the aluminum crank pulley, with the 3.0 ring attached so it will start, and built another trigger-wheel disk that will bolt on the front of the crank pulley so I can maybe mount three groups of ten rare-earth magnets on the outside ring, to emulate the flywheel pulse pattern? That would require the 3.5 head sensors and the new front hall-effect sensor to be powered and create the same pulses as the original 350Z. Anyway, it's been a idea I've been working on.

 

Na i have no idea what Dandy went through with Greddy.



Idea, if you run a Sport2k, the stock vq30 ecu is not even running the motor, possible to run a vq35 flexplate? IF so you would get crank sensor codes on the stock ecu but it really should not matter too much.


You might can run a VQ35 Maxima flexplate im pretty sure NWP Aaron is and he has a 4th gen bellhousing.


Only issue woudl be what woudl the stock vq30 ecu do without that sensor, which its not running the motor so your motor would run just fine. The Haltech sk2 should also be able to have RPM output for your gauge too!


Man i need to get a 4th gen just for testing! And a Sentra too! Soo many ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



What do you think? Am i missing something? i know you got a crazy setup

 

My 3.0/3.5 setup is standard. 3.0 timing chains and gears and stock cam sensor, and a 3.0 flexplate and sensor that is required by the ECU to start and run. There is no room for any part of the 3.5 flexplate in there. The 3.5 flexplate can replace the 3.0, but then none of the 3.0 ECU functions would work or start the car.

I want to start by running the S2000 in parallel with the 3.0 ECU, to keep all the normal functions working. I do not intend to replace the stock ECU completely with the Haltech.

You're a sensor wizard, along with your electrical wizard buddy. How would you create the same 3.5 flexplate timing pattern and not swap out the 3.0 flexplate? Put another trigger wheel on the front crank pulley?

 

That's the Beauty of it!!! Run the ps2k in parallel with the 3.0 ecu! BUT the 3.0 ecu wont be running the motor at all.


I wonder how the vq30 ecu would react to no crank signal when the haltech is really running the motor? would it freak out?

What does a vq30 do when the flexplate crank sensor is unplugged? Not run at all? Probably the coils dont fire. i know 100% that the VQ35 runs without that crank sensor even plugged up! BUT the CAM sensors are critical. Maybe its opposite on vq30

 

ever think about doing a full 3.5 swap since your good at electronics

 

The VQ30 won't start without the crank sensor reading the timing wheel on the flexplate... losing any of the sensors is bad. There are a lot of functions that require the 3.0 ECU - like the TCU for the automatic, required for normal driving. And yes, there are add-ons for shifting, but I don't have the time to do more major mods like that. The drive train is the most important project right now.

Speaking of that, the cryo guy informed me yesterday that he won't be running another batch "for a few weeks" so I'm going ahead with installing the welded diff back in the IPT transmission, then when I get it welded up, it goes in the cold stuff, as a spare. I'll probably break the one I have now.

 

Ya thats what i was afraid of.

I guess the next best thing is leave the flexplate and sensor there as is. Then get a wheel made like the 350z trigger pattern, mount to the crank pulley, mount the crank sensor somehow, and use that for the haltech.

 

Yup - there's where my thinking is right now. Just thinking about the problem, I could lay my 11" degree wheel on the 05 flexplate and locate each timing notch by degrees from the crankshaft key pin hole. Once I knew the pattern, cutting a 7" circle out of a 1/2" aluminum plate and marking and drilling the holes for magnets would be easy. I would have to change the front crank pulley to a full-sized 3.0 Unorthodox pulley, but that's just work. The 7" circle/trigger-wheel could be bolted onto the front of the new pulley once I figured out the index for the crank key, but I have another 3.0-converted 3.5 on my engine stand, so I can get the timing correct before mounting anything, life the Haltech sensor. Hmmmm.... this might work.

I have a nice adjustable 12v-5volt power supply so I could run all three sensors off of 5 volts - I think that's what the 3.5s use?

 

im not sure im following what your saying. im saying copy the 3.5 flexplate trigger teeth pattern, make that in a smaller size on the crank pulley, it would have to be ferrous plate so the crank sensor could pick up on the notches.


The older 3.5's use 12 volts supply for the sensors then the sensor cuts it to 5 volts. The wiring of the sensor would be the easy part, 12 volts, ground, and signal to haltech.


Are you talking abut using a haltech hall effect sensor to pickup a timing plate on the crank pulley? it woudl probably also work but im not sure how to go about setting the trigger plate up, i guess it would need to be like the 3.5 still

 

Here's a few pix of the 3.5 flex plate with the timing wheel inside. You can easily see the three groups of 10 notches, and the spacing between them is consistent. The crank key pin can be easily seen in the first pix - the small hole on the right with a large arrow pointing to it. The second pix has the timing wheel TDC arrow pointing to that point on the flex plate. The third pix is a closeup of the TDC mark pointing to midway between the first and second mark, going counter-clockwise, so the timing notches are 10 degrees apart, with 30 degrees of blank timing ring between each group of 10 notches. That pattern should be possible to transfer to a 7" trigger wheel.

Haltech prefers an aluminum trigger wheel with rare earth magnets set into the wheel. and an adjustable hall-effect sensor just over the wheel to pick up the magnets as the wheel rotates. Apparently the timing is more precise this way... ?








EDIT: Here's a link to the Haltech Forum about 350Zs - there's a pdf file in here that shows the difference between a FWD and RWD 3.5 flywheel/flexplate for Maximas and 350Zs - and yes, there is a difference in the location of the index hole between the crank bolts.

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=8684

 

Cool you are well on your way!


YES FWD and RWD offset is a little different.

I posted in that thread about a year ago! ahah


It should not be a issue, its only alignment difference not actual timing marks.


With the sport 2k you can adjust the tooth offset so no worries i dont think.