I've been looking over the instructions for the Maximizer 4, and I see a potential design flaw. The Max 4 has 2 separate stages, similar to the Max 3, which I've wired together through heavy rectifier diodes so I can program one stage for a tapered 75-shot in first gear, then use the other stage with the 1st-gear lockout enabled, so that I can launch and run up to my maximum traction in first gear with slicks of a 75-shot. The second stage can control the spray level in 2nd-4th gears up to what level I feel lucky with using.

Videos and slips show my car, with the M&H slicks on, will spin and lose traction before a 100-shot in first gear. After the car starts rolling, it can hook up with a total 200-shot that I've tried. I program both stages differently, but both will control the pair of solenoids by taking turns.

The Maximizer 4 also has two stages, and could be wired to act like the Max 3, but if you want to use the A/F control to manage the nitrous and fuel solenoids, (which is why I ordered one) then the Max 4 operates as just one stage. I could program that stage to go only as high as 75-shot, or program it to go to 250-shot in each gear, but there's no way to separate 1st gear from the other gears. This makes it unusable for me.

I will probably need to use one Maximizer for 1st gear only and the Maximizer 4, with 1st-gear-lockout, to control spray levels in 2-4th gears. Sigh ....

 

just barely started progress on it last week ... i've been super busy and so has my buddy at the shop ... finally started putting it together little by little last week so its not even running yet ... i still wanna get a manifold made cause one of my goals is to make 320whp all motor and break into 12's all motor and then i move on to the nitrous setup ... slow steps

aaron has chosen a diff route now lol he's not doing a vq35 so idk lol

2 maximizers ? lol racecawwwww

i'll just get a maximizer then and depending on what drag setup i go with for the tires ... i really hope i can get a 75 shot flat to hook without the maximizer and use the maximizer for 2-4th gears

 

Here's the new Aeromotive 100 micron fuel/alcohol fuel filter. Already have one like this in the car, but I'll have 6AN connectors on both ends. 1500 hp flow rated - I should be OK.




I just got a message back from NX - they estimate my Max 4 may ship by May 30 !!! Bummer.... I agree with using a Maximizer to run the higher gears. No way you can hold much more than a 75-shot at launch - at least, I never could do any more than that with slicks. I'm going to use two small 12 volt relays to watch the A and B solenoids to the transmission, and their contacts in series will be wired to two 40-amp SPDT relays so that the nitrous/fuel solenoids will be switched to the Max 3 in first gear and the Max 4 for the rest. This works on the 4AT because the A and B solenoids only have 12 volts on them in first gear. You might check the FSM for your transmission and see which solenoids have 12 volts in first gear.. I already did this on my Max 3 so I can program the first stage for first gear only then it switches to the second stage for the rest. One set of Lighting solenoids and one set of jets and you too can have dual nitrous programming for your race car.

 

OOO nice lol ...


im get some spacers ... slap some big *** slicks on

and with hopes and dreams hope a 75 instant shot dead hooks from a dig lol


remember kevin with the red 6thgen (RIP)

he popped a 1.3 60 ft once on a hot day with the same DR's i already got lol

im just wishing for the same with hopes and dreams lol

 

Timing error, no way that's gonna hapen. lol

God that would be nice though.

 

Yeah, Shiny !

No, remember, with the Max 3 you can have throttle-controlled spray in first gear and switch to RPM-based spray in the upper gears. The best of both worlds... What kind of DRs do you use, anyway?

 

Did I even tell you about my secret plan to mount a large CO2 cylinder in the back of my car, pointed toward the rear, and capped with a huge ball valve with a long cord going up to the driver? With a 1 sq inch opening in the valve, popping open the valve will give you an instant 1,000 lb push off the line, and on down the track a ways. There's your 1.0 sec 60ft time.... You just gotta brace that bottle GOOD. And, NHRA says nothing about it in their rule books.

 

Sounds like a good idea to me.

Have you heard about the hydrogen peroxide cars from the 70s and 80s? Those things were fast as hell. Made top fuel cars look slow.

Thrust is definitely the way to go, then we'd finally not have to worry about traction.

 

Did I ever tell you that you were crazy for dreaming up this?

 

Something about spraying the Peroxide across a catalyst which caused a huge high pressure gas to spray through a nozzle? or maybe it was used to make peroxide blonds... I might have to look this up.

Too much thrust and you have to worry about where you're going to come down.

 

What's crazy about it? compared to using old USAF JATO rocket bottles, anyway... How big should the bottes be? maybe 3.5L or 3.2L or 3.3L ??? any preferences ?

 

HUSH LOL ... let me dream and stay happy lol .. you never know lmao

ahh i see ... the worst in the market lol ... Nitto 555r's ... gonna try switching brake calipers etc so i can fit 15's and get some slicks

LMAOOO

 

Hmmmm... I read a DR comparision in one of the car mags, and the 555s compared very well with the MT ET Street radial DR. I don't think those would hold you back - unless they're too narrow for that nitrous torque!! But yeah, slicks are much better. I just wouldn't run them on the street.

Get 'er runnin !!

EDIT A couple of Drag Radial tests

Nitto vs MT
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...t/viewall.html

Nitto NT05R
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...s/viewall.html

 

Yesterday I rewired the fuel pump with 14-gauge wire to my existing heavy duty relay that switches battery voltage directly to the pump. The wiring was changed all the way to the plug on the top of the fuel pump assembly. I'm also installing a digital 12 volt hour-runtime meter to record how long the Aeromotive 340 pump has run. The pump draws about 15 amps at 44psi.



Today I finished the installation of the fuel supply and return lines in the engine compartment.

I'm going to need to install a heat shield to deflect the exhaust gases that come out of the headers cutout - otherwise I'll cook the new hoses. I used normal wire ties to hang the tubing pair up, then contractor's wire ties to clamp the new lines to the existing bundle of lines.

Bottom side - up front. Fuel supply and return - everything 6AN NOS hoses. They have a consistent larger inside diameter.




The new fuel return and nitrous fuel bleeder line. It's another 6AN line up to the T-connection for the bleeder, then Gates 3/8" Hi-pres fuel hose.



This one is the fuel supply line that goes to the alcohol-compatable Aeromotive 100 micron filter - right to a 6AN 90* adapter on the inlet.



The final step is to install the new filter and modified fuel pump assembly in the tank, hook up everything, cross fingers, and start er up. I'll have a couple of fire extinguishers ready...

EDIT: Rear hoses again:

 

Yep, they use 90% and up concentrated hydrogen. Catalyst can be made with various substances. Most common is a stack of pure silver mesh screens.

Kitty O'neil went 3.22 @ 412mph in 1977. The run was done in the mojave desert because the normal shutdowns at dragstrips were not long enough. These things are insanely fast.

 

Yeah, I guess you wouldn't have to worry about traction when launching, would you?

Hmmmmm.... maybe an orbital vehicle ?? but coming down would be a stone cold b*tch... I think I'll stick with the CO2 bottle idea. I just don't see a good way to mount one.

A side note - I found a gas station in Topeka that sells Renegade 102 octane gas, out of four pumps - and has full service, as well.

 

I don't think it would be too hard to mount. After all the thrust is going to push the bottle forward. I'd just use a plate that the top of the bottle can fit though halfway. Then use bottle mounts to secure the rest of the bottle. Kind of hard to explain but seems simple enough to me.

 

The bottle will generate 1000lbs of thrust through a 1 sq inch opening. It needs to be mounted very securely to transfer that thrust from the bottom of the bottle to the frame (unibody?) of the car. It needs to be basically lined up so that the thrust is parallel to the ground and is pushing the car straight ahead, not left or right. The bottle must be centered in the rear of the car - somewhere.

I don't want a large hole in my trunk lid, and the fuel tank uses up the space under the trunk deck. The logical place is mounted on the upper trunk deck and protruding through the trunk lid. This way a very strong mount can be made up and bolted to the truck deck.

Maybe for a test, get another sacrificial trunk lid and use a small bottle for testing? Think anybody would notice a nozzle sticking out the back of the trunk?? And during tech inspection, how difficult would it be to pass?

Maybe this isn't a great idea after all......

On a brighter note, I found that VP Racing Fuels has started selling "C85" which is a race-ready E85 made with one of their race fuels. This means I can get a steady supply of E85 that's consistent from batch to batch. Since we have only one station left in town that sells E85, that's more good news.

 

Yeah, that bottle might take up some of your trunk space.
I'd make a cover for the hole in the trunk lid. Then after you pass tech, remove the cover. They'll never know what hit em.

 

Well, because of the two 15lb nitrous bottles in the trunk, they usually want to look in there. Hmm... maybe I can paint a CO2 bottle white and apply NX logos to it, then turn it around after tech so it's peeking out the hole and POOF I'm ready to squeeze off both kinds of bottles at launch !!! If I could use oxygen instead of CO2, that's 2200 lbs per sq inch. Heck ,a nitrous bottle is 1000 PSI - maybe that would work - but very expensive, though.

This may be the way to break below 1.5 sec for 60 ft time !!!

 

Oxygen seems like the way to go!

 

Dang - VP Racing Fuels just put out a memo that states that their new ethanol C85 is not available for purchase at this time. Looks like I may still run with the VP 109 for a while.

 

Sunday I wired my NX Maximizer 3 so that only Stage 1 could control the two Lightning solenoids and programmed that stage for throtle control. That function only works from 50% throttle up to 100%. I programmed the controller to spray 20% of the 150-shot that the jets will provide now, and 50% at 100% throttle.

I mounted up a 15lb bottle that was about 1/3 gone and installed it cold so that it had about 800psi showing. This was kind of a safety precaution. I hadn't sprayed on the new differential or the new M/T DRs yet, and I wanted to try this throttle control thing. Funny - it works just like the instructions say it should. It really does feel like your driving with a much larger motor.

So far, so good.

The next step is to build the relay controller to switch back and forth between Maximizer Stage 1 and Stage 2, depending on what gear the transmission is set to. 1st gear = throttle-based spray. Gears 2-4 will be Stage2 with RPM-based programming. The car launches much better when you smack the TC with the throttle and controlling spray with the throttle instead of stalling up to 3K and flooring the throttle.

 

Last night I finished the installation of the new fuel system, still using gasoline, and when I put the MAF and KramAir package back on, the car started right up. Whew. This was a longer-than-expected project complete with surprises. After finding all the 6AN hoses I needed, which took a couple of Jegs orders for NOS 6AN hoses to get the right lengths, mounting the new 100-micron alcohol Aero fuel filter canister, and installing the modified-for-6AN fuel pump carrier complete with a Aeromotive 340 pump, when I used a separate battery (I disconnected the main battery - no dummies here) to run the pump to prime the fuel system - nothing! Just a buzz, a spark, then silence. A meter showed no internal resistance in the fuel pump - something opened up inside, I figured - so i ordered a new one, again from Jegs. Shoulda tested it BEFORE installing it in the tank!

Since working in the tank getting the pump and carrier out of there (and getting my hands soaked with gas) gave me a royal headache last weekend, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a box of heavy duty Nitrile gloves. These worked very well when installing the new pump yesterday. I again put battery voltage to the pump and I heard the pump whine - checked the FPR gauge up front and had nothing! I pulled off the supply hose from the tank and connected up a longer hose to dump into a transmission oil drain bucket, applied battery voltage - and all I got out was some sputters of gasoline... Now what? You don't suppose that I'm almost out of gas? So I went to Sams Club and put 5 gallons of premium in a can and brought that home and put it in the tank. The hose pumped out plenty of fuel, so I re-connected the supply hose, Now I have my usual 44 psi at the gauge.

So far, so good. I checked for leaks and see a drip at the back where the supply line connected to the hard lines that go up front. I checked the 6AN connections - all tight - and started trying different ways to tighten the nut, but i could see the fuel weeping out of the hose connector - so after working under the car in a puddle of gas for an hour or so, I decided to change out the hose - and that worked perfectly. Go figure - I don't see anything wrong, but it leaked anyway. And now it doesn't....

So now the oversized fuel system is in place and it's time to plan for the E85 conversion to my larger 440cc injectors and install the NGK racing plugs. I just heard from NX that my Maximizer 4 just shipped yesterday, so I'll have another reason to terrorize some on-ramps. Automatic A/F regulation of nitrous is gonna be so great...

Chances are pretty good that the first fuel pump had rusted inside because I had used water for pressure-checking the hard lines, and although I thought I shook out all the water, maybe I didn't and it rusted inside.



I think I'll get a couple of 5-gal cans of E85 - just in case I need some....

 

Nice, sounds like you've made a lot of progress.

 

Not as fast as I wanted - but this isn't my only hobby...

Fuel pump comparison - which is the best?


http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...on-test-5.html

 

Looks like you picked the best pump!

 

The NX Maximizer 4 showed up last night. Documentation was a pile of printed sheets, stapled together, so I guess I do have an early version.

A NX manager shared some advice about the Max 4 on how to use the A/F mode. Seems he's been driving a prototype on the street for a couple of months. He said the key to making the A/F self-adjustment feature work is to jet the fuel heavier and let the Max 4 adjust it back to your settings - that's what the manual says, too. Hmmmm... I wonder what Sensitivity setting he used? guess I'll have to ask him.

Now that I have "parts-in-hand" I can build the relay switch module to switch from Max 3 (in first gear) to the Max 4 (for 2-4th gear) and figure out a way to stress-test the "Multi-Max" setup. Oh boy - another catchy label.

 

I decided I didn't like the looks of the M/T drag radials, so I decided to use white tire paint - got some white paint pens from Jegs, but the "white"" was pretty grey. I found that some people use office supply whiteout, and that works pretty good.






The new look:



The rest of the 6AN hoses for fuel supply and return: To the fuel filter and from the FPR return back to the 1/2" pipe



Heavier wiring for the fuel pump:



The Maximizer 4:



There - I feel better.....

 

nice progress Harold ... you mad scientist you lol

 

Thanx..... it's all coming together. The relay switch bank for the Maximizers, a couple of Cyberdyne gauges for oil and fuel pressure to go with a new PLX A/F system and I should be done buying pieces - just need to put things together. And run some alcohol ....

How's the weather in Houston in July ??

"Born in Japan - but raised in the Heartland"

 

nice nice .... hotter then africa lol


i've been swamped and my buddy doing the swap for me has been aswell ... finally got everything coming in this week

all the gaskets ... all new OEM timing components ... new waterpump ... little stuff ... oh and the NX fuel cell should be in tomorrow or monday maybe so getting closer lol ... kinda

 

At least you're making progress. (were you installing cams?) For me, parts take at least twice as long to find as they should, then twice as long to install as they should, while the prices are at least twice as high as they should be. Then it takes way too much time to figure out why things don't work right the first time. I love it.....

 

Racecarz

 

i bought em in the longblock package and IPP had them installed before they sent it back to me
....only thing left is putting the motor/timing/tranny together and slapping it in and im done ... i still haven't bought a direct port setup tho :/

Just family sedans doing our thannggg lol

 

Shark is looking good with those wheels and tires!

 

Yeah - now it looks just like the 2012 COPO Camaro on page 72 of the new HOT ROD magazine !!! Except that car has the wide tires on the back. And it has 900 HP.... and it's a Chevy...

 

The Megasquirt apparently can manage automatic transmissions. Pretty Impressive....

http://www.megamanual.com/MSFAQ.htm#trans



EDIT: The MSII is also MAP and MAF compatible - it directly senses the MAF, the manual says.

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/

 

Megasquirt is awesome. You could run the EDIS-6 ignition off of a ford for your ignition.

Plus Harold I think you have the electrical knowledge to build one yourself, so you could save some bucks there too.

 

If you look at the MS documentation, they now have sequential coil-over-plug and sequential injectors - on top of a Megalist of new options for the Megasquirt. None of those funky EDIS add-ons - and hopefully, no external trigger wheels. That will take a couple of donor 4th gens - sent to GA - to find out.

This might even work - but don't tell Aackshun that I said that.... I sure to heck don't want to try and build one - although a pulse-stretcher for the injectors might happen if the MS doesn't happen.