I use it mainly for the water temp, I try and run same temp for every run around 180. My temp gauge running off the leg doesn't seem to read as accurately as the obdii for some reason.

 

Hmmm.. that's interesting. Different sensors? Did you ever monitor the engine oil temp and tranny temp? I can see making an in-line T-adapter for the output line from the transmission, but short of drilling a hole in the lower oil pan, where to stick the temp sensor for engine oil?

 

Ya I haven't tried engine oil temp but I did a Tee for the trans temp. The water temp does have different sensors but close together on the leg. I use the obdii one because it controls the fans.

 

I did order three more Prism Cyberdyne gauges for water, engine oil temp, and transmission temp. These have white LED displays and are very visible in the daylight. I'll mount them in the center of the dash in a pod. I still want an OBD2 display, but not sure which one yet.

Jim, do you remember what your transmission temp was during racing?

 

I believe around 170, I have the trans cooler fan on a manual switch as well as on the rad fan circuit.

 

OK - that's a good idea. Hmmm.. I could use one of those probe-type thermostat switches to control the cooler fan - I think I have one I never used. Power it from the ECCS relay through a fuse and it should be ready to go.

Since I removed the two 12-volt bottle heaters, I have enough amps to go around now, for things like this - and gauges... I just warm bottles, if needed, from a small generator with Moroso 120 volt heater pads. Wrap 'em up in a blankee, nice and snug.

 

I've been making some changes and testing them lately, and ran into some problems. First, I went out testing the relay switcher that would let me run one program to launch first gear then switch to another controller stage. I had a massive bog going from first to second. I switched from the Maximizer 3 to the Max 4, and same thing.

Second - I mounted the three temperature gauges in the center of the dash and hooked up the water temp 6-wire cable that was left over from the old PLX A/F gauge. I wanted to test it so I connected the sensor ground to the common ground of the relay switcher ground wires. When I went out for a drive, the water temp would display and increase as the engine warmed - but the display would cut in and out. What the hay? I woke up at 3AM and realized that the 3 relay ground wires weren't grounded - no 4th wire - so I grounded them and poof! everything worked normally - temp gauge AND relay switching of nitrous stages, and the big bog was gone. I did build contact adapters for the tranny and engine oil temp sensors, since I see no good way to get the sensors into the fluids.

Third, I decided to try a race fuel for some practice in tuning a different fuel, and bought 10 gals of Renegade 102 from a local station, pumped out the tank of premium and put in the 102. The fuel pressure immediately jumped 2-3 psi and kept creeping upwards over 1/2 hour or so. The engine began idling very rough and super-lean. Spraying a 70-shot gave me more super-lean readings. I bumped the fuel jets from a 16 to 17 - no change. I changed the 17s to 19s - still no improvement - I'm seeing lambdas of 1.2 or higher! Time to go back to pump premium, and the idle was much better and the fuel pressure immediately dropped 2 psi and dropped and pound over an hour. ??? Jetting is still at 19 fuel, and spraying gives about 1.0 lambda - better, but still way too high. Maybe the 102 fuel hurt the fuel solenoid? I checked solenoid flow and it passes tank gas like a fire hose, so I dunno.

I'm going to order another new NX L15201 .187" solenoid just in case, but today I'm going to transfer to the Max 4 for some more testing. Something is still weird.

 

Update: spraying a 70-shot through the direct port jets of 26N 19F still gives a lambda of .96 - that's a pump gas A/F of 14.1:1. Kinda lean. I say...

NX Direct Port jetting for 6 cyl: (I have 150-shot jets installed now, 26N - 19G ) 44psi

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru..._dpjetting.pdf


Are you all aware of the impact of race fuel and the different Stoich numbers that they have? Here's a good link to that data: (there are lots of pages in this post)

http://www.modularfords.com/f17/stoi...ce-gas-132628/

Renegade 102 has a stoich of 13.6 ,and VP MS109 is 13.41. If you don't jet for this, you'll toast something.

Time for a new solenoid....

 

I've torn down the valve covers to replace the gaskets using Permatex grey Minute Gasket goo. It took two cans ($28.00) but so far no leaks. I also found the little breather filter on the front cover had broken off its hose and there was oil spewing out onto the transmission - another mess. I thought about it a while and came up with a nice way to put a larger breather filter on, fed from both banks. Looks good, fits good, gotta breathe good, right? I also found a vacuum leak on the 08 Altima UIM - a plug had started to leak - and replaced that. I installed the NGK race plugs, gapped to .035 and the car starts and runs very well. Lambda is back to normal at idle and WOT - N/A only tested so far. Going to a test-n-tune tonight for some tests with a 100-shot on the M/T DRs, to find out how things are working. If everything is back to normal, then it's time for the E85 conversion.

 

I took the car to the Friday test-n-tune at Heartland. They now open for registration at 5PM but open the track until 7PM, and stay open to 11PM. Much better for hot summer nights. I went out around 7 and finished tech with no problems. They did ask me if the car was AWD - I guess the M/T DRs confused them, but the car sure handles and corners so much better now. Weather was cool (80's) so the single bottle in the trunk was kinda cool (900psi) - and the d*mn generator would'nt start, so I made the first two runs with low nitrous pressure, with kinda slow results. I took out the generator plug and let it sit for a while and got it started and warmed the bottle for the last run. This worked much better, with a 12.9 ET/110 MPH result. (although all three passes were at 110MPH)

Launching is still a problem with 2.2 sec 60-ft on the first two runs and no real power until 4000 RPMs. I figured up a better way for the third run and got a 2.0 60ft. The real problem is the M/T drag radials - as soon as the engine gets up to 4500 the DRs break loose and when the car shifts, it lurches sideways while screaming the tires. And this is a maximum of a 100-shot limit on a NX Maximizer 3 throttle-based controller. It's really time to mount the M&H slicks. Smaller diameter ( 24.4" vs 26") and I know they grip better.

The encouraging part is now the A/F is when it should be, considering the fuel jetting is bumped from .016 to .018, giving a Lambda of 7.6, about a A/F of 11.1:1 with pump premium. I can probably run with a A/F of 10.8 and run safely. I bought 8.5 gallons of Sunoco GT100 at the track (that's where the pump ran dry) and I'm thinking about emptying the tank and putting this fuel in to test lambda jetting. The stoich on this fuel is 13.9 so it should run leaner than pump premium, and this is a good way to test it. I'm sneaking up on the E85 conversion and won't do it until jetting is predictable.

The best part is now the car starts and idles easily with no super-lean numbers on the PLX. I still have to double prime the fuel rails when the car has been sitting because the internal volume is much higher than stock. And, there are now NO more engine oil leaks... I need a "Prime" button on the dash - maybe I'll do that today. Overall I'm pleased with how things are working together and hope jetting remains predictable. Even NA-only A/F is lambda 7.6.

 

Slicks are needed!

You're running the shark at ifo kc this year right?

 

At this point, YES! I just ordered nitrous refills and three more cans of VP C85 ethanol. I've got to finish testing the Sunoco GT100 in the tank to be sure I can tune A/F (probably tonight). Then it's "drain the tank again" and installation of the 440cc DW injectors and start-up on ethanol. Then some more street nitrous tuning with E85....

I think I'll start with the 23x15x8.5" M&Hs on the front and the 24.5x15x8.5" M&Hs on the rear, because the slicks are much lighter than the DRs. Plus, this should confuse the tech guys even more than the DRs on front and rear! "is that car AWD?"

Are you gonna be there? I'm still using a maximum of 150-shot for nitrous jetting, through the Max 3 controller, but I could raise that to 225-shot with the jets I have. Dunno yet - I do have those funny spark plugs installed which seem to work fine and not glow in the dark. Still lots of unknowns...

 

Nice progress Harold !

We still having Landshark vs Landwhale at the houston IFO lol ?

 

Yeah I'll be going! I would run the 24.5s. You might even need a 26x10 slick on the front! Have you thought about going to some skinnies on the back?

 

Good - I'm glad you can make it... the smell of imports in the air - yum.

The reason I was going to put both sets of slicks on the car is because I don't have any skinnies - 'cause they're fugly - and the rear slicks can be inflated to 30-35 psi and roll real easy.. This way I can switch them front-to-rear if I want to try that.

I just came back from a drive with one bottle in the trunk. Holy sh*t, batman! The first throttle-controlled stage is set to a maximum of 105 shot (with the installed jets for 150 WHP) and the second throttle-controlled stage is set to 100% at WOT. I'm actually set with two steps richer on the fuel jets (18 from 16) and Lambda is around .71 at WOT - or at least open a bunch. I don't think I ever got the throttle open in 1st, 2nd, or third, what with the traffic and wheelspin and all that highway drama, but I really like the throttle-controlled spray. It really is like driving a huge V8. Engine temp spiked to 225* just after a good 2nd gear pull - maybe some of the fancy Royal Purple radiator cooler juice would help?

I need to jet back one step and try it again to see what Lambda readings I get, then if things work like they're supposed to, it's E85 time!

 

So have you broken in the Whale enough to spray yet? Because you are gonna have a hella ride in that beast. Was that the Whale idling in the video? Something sounded pretty good. Those racing plugs seem to work great in my car - should be good for you too.

IFO, huh? There's are lot to figure out before I do that, but it would be really fun scaring the Hondas...

 

Still making a few adjustments here and there doing the direct port setup ...going to pick up Q16 tomorrow morning then tune as soon as my tuner gets free ...

 

Just remembered there is no more kcir. You're going to the topeka ifo right Harold?

 

Yessir.... http://www.importfaceoff.net/

You've never been there, right? Best you hook up with me Sunday morning and follow/ride with me to the track.

Just south of the air base.... The pits are big, but the staging area is on the other side of the main track and the drag strip isn't close at all to the pits. There are several Pay lots near the strip. I'll bring an extra $2.00-off brochure with me. The Heartland home page has pretty good internal maps.

http://www.hpt.com/

http://maps.google.com/maps?client=f...l&hl=en&tab=wl

Or google this " Heartland Park Topeka, Southwest Topeka Boulevard, Topeka, KS "

It will be fun...

 

It's gonna be awesome that's for sure!!! Meeting up with you before sounds good to me.

 

spray the 225 shot lol


Krazy you running too ?

when you getting in on dat juice lol ?

 

I don't know if I will. I don't have any slicks right now and my tranny's acting up a little bit.
I was gonna spray my car with a 125-150 shot but then realized I will burn the hell out of the clutch. Don't have enough money for a clutch right now.

 

I've been thinking about it, but I want to convert to E85 first. I know I can spray a 150-shot on the highway, but even doing that boiled some water out of the radiator - I could smell it! The overflow tank dropped about 1/2". Today I drained about a quart from the radiator and added a bottle of Red Line water wetter and topped off with water. Maybe that will help - this is the first time that's happened.

I was going out tonight for some street tuning, but the heat wave has broken and it's rained some about every 2-3 hours today - like right now - so maybe tomorrow, with the fuel jets pulled back from a .018 to a .017. Gotta check fuel tuning w/GT100 - and if that it works as it should, then it's pump out the tank again and fill with E85 - and put in the 440cc injectors.

One step at a time.

 

I wanna see the shark on the 225 shot!

 

Whaaaa ? didn't you just change it out lol ??

@_@ why did it boil out ? wth ?

is that something i should be worried about ?

damnit ... i've worked on a little bit to keep the temps down on the car ... looks like i might have to get a bigger aftermarket radiator


yolo lol

 

This was the first time I've sprayed this engine on a continuous 150-shot through 2nd gear, and it was one h*ll of a pull. The engine temp flashed up to 225* and when I shut down to leave the interstate I could smell boiling water - just like when your radiator heats up and overflows. I came home and parked the car and looked under the hood but didn't see any leaks. I looked at the stock overflow tank and it had dropped about 1/2". I keep it 3/4 full and marked so I can check water levels, but nothing has changed until then. Dunno.... It's been raining since then so no rerun - yet.

I tracked down a Mishimoto 4th gen radiator i could have by next Thursday, but I don't know .... ???

 

Hmm ... Well I hope I don't have that issue ...I'm starting with a 200 shot .. Didn't have that issue on the 125 shot

 

Funny thing is I was on ebay reading on Nitros but I just couldn't understand what they were saying and I thought about going on the org and opening a thread but decided to look for an existing one, turns out everyone is doing it and/or thinking about it. This thread was opened a while ago so I have a lot of reading to do, or i'll just ask krazy6 for advice seeing that he's one of the only 6thgens manual that races on the 1/4 mile

 

I rebuilt the tranny myself and I guess I might have messed something up lol

I didn't replace the clutch because it looked fine, so didn't wanna spend the money yet.

I'm also very hard on transmissions! Harold can vouch for my shifting haha

 

Yeah, he needs a crash-box, the way he shifts. PFF... (Pretty F*ck*n Fast).


A few pix of the M&H 23" slicks next to the M/T DRs, which are 26" diameter. The 24.5" M&Hs are kinda in-between. Yes, it was raining at the time... it's still raining off and on.

I know either slick will give me a lower first gear, helping with the launch. Kinda makes up for taz's shorter 1st gear, right?

 

I would really love a faceplated transmission. That would be awesome!!!
The synchros are what slow me down.

I would run the 24.5s. You'll probably spin the crap out of the 23s.

 

Yeah....

 

I decided to raise the rear of the hood for (hopefully) better air flow out of the engine compartment. Did it, took some pics, went out for a spray job, and just got back. The lambda is 7.3-7.4 while spraying a 150-shot - but the engine didn't heat up as much as last time. And - the hood is still attached - it passed the over-100MPH test.

Marked overflow tank - before...



I used some 30mm and 40mm 8mmx1.25 bolts and nuts to do the rear-of-the-hood-lift. As least I feel cooler...

Oh yeah - in some of the pix there are aluminum plates and Gorilla tape showing - that was to protect the windshield from the hood in case it got away from me.













Just at the lip of the hood, on the driver's side, you can see two little super-bright red LEDS which flash with the fuel and nitrous solenoids. It's always nice to know what's working - this time...

 

I've heard lol ...

What first gear lol

I'm debating between 26 or 28's et streets

Hmm lol I might do this as well lol

 

If you try throttle-controlled nitrous, you might change your mind on how to drive the car. No more OFF or ON, just a smooth control of spray.

The hood thing wasn't very hard to do. I just decided to make air flow around the engine work a little better - with all the cr*p now under the hood, some help is needed. I didn't need to take off the hood - just prop up the front and take bolts loose and replace with longer bolts one at a time, using two nuts in the sandwich between hood and hinge. When the radiator fans kick on, you can feel a warm breeze blowing out the new hood gap.

 

ahhh i see

i already have the both fans rigged to be on as soon as i turn the ignition ...both fans on at full speed all the time !

idk if its the same with 4th gens etc but the 6th gens the fans have 2 speeds ... medium and fast

 

I need to do that for my car. Gotta figure out the best place to tap into a switch-to-ground control. Yes, the 4th gen has two-speed fans. Fast and FASTER! Heh...

Studied the FSM today - and found a convenient place to control the radiator fans - there's a fluid A/C "liquid tank" up by the driver's side of the radiator with a "Triple-pressure" switch that controls the engine fans. Its' connection is shown on FSM EC-11, over by the fan relays. The diagram on page HA-43 shows the wiring colors, and for a '99 you want the Light Green wire located. The connector and tank is on HA-56. The manual warns about NOT taking off this connector unless you gotta, so I moved the adjacent relay box out of the way and scalped some insulation off the solid light-green wire and soldered on an extension and taped over the joint. Now when you ground that wire, the fans run. Seems to keep things cooler. Went for a final drive with the GT100 fuel and sprayed a couple of times, shows a lambda of 7.5-7.6, somewhere around a gasoline 12:1 A/F.


This is a quickie ground:
















The fans do run all the time this way. I'll mount a switch somewhere in the cabin.

It's now time to pump out the tank and fill 'er up with E85 - right after I change out the injectors and check the plugs.

 

Your wiring always scares me lol

looks time consuming lol

i still haven't installed the direct port kit or wiring or controller LOL ... Lawd half mercy

 

Yeah, that was a hack-job on the fan controller - I wanted to see if it would work - plus I don't think anyone else did it this way, and that's most of the fun. But it's pretty simple for 4th gens and better than digging around in the ECU wiring... I just need to finish the switch wiring while I'm flushing the tank and installing the E85 injectors - starting tonight. There is a Test-n-Tune on Friday night before the Sunday IFO, and I need to get some tuning done and test my slicks for best size to use. Five full 15lb bottles and three 5gal cans of VP C85 are coming tonight, enough for some serious tuning. I found out again last night that the fuel tank should not go below 3/8 tank - that's where fuel pickup starts to fail and sputter when spraying a heavy load.

Your direct-port installation is going to take a while - like a couple of weeks for the plumbing. Then you have the controller to wire up and test. More fun! - and your car will look like mine under the hood!

 

well damn lol

im excited to see your car go down the track on the 150 shot

do you have a go pro ?

have krazy make a vid for you too i wanna see this