Well as the title says I am a newbie, I have been having some trouble with my car for a while now. I have just had the engine replaced after the previous on had a freak oil leak and locked up on me. But, now I am having problems with my ignition system. At first when I had just picked my car up it idled a little rough and did not accelerate so well (couldn't floor it, had no effect really). So, I returned it to the dealer and they temporarily fixed it, everything was great for like 2 wks. Then I was out for a little drive on my lunch and it just started acting up again, so I took it back to the dealer. This time they said it was an ignition coil that was bad and they charged me $140 to replace one coil (I was upset about this b/c later I found one online for $40). But as soon as I cranked the car it was exactly the same so I decided to try and do some work myself because after the engine im a little broke. Well the coil they replaced was on my #3 cylinder which I checked and was fine, but 5 was'nt firing so i switched some of the coil packs around to see if it was the coil but that cylinder still wasn't firing. Then eventually #3 and #5 both stopped firing. And it progressively got worse now the car cranks fine but stalls out immediately. My ECU is now showing a code 21 (2 long 1 short if im right), my hanes manul reads:

Cause: The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running. This repair must be performed by a dealer service department.

FAT CHANCE! I've done some other web searching and found I may have to replace the wiring harness or PTU. Does anyone know anything regarding my situation? I really need this car working asap, I have no idea how to test to see which one is malfunctioning. I am no mechanic anything I know about auto's has been learned in the last few months with this car so PLEASE HELP! Also I am sorry for the long post just tried to include as much info as possible about what has been done, thank you.

 

have you checked your spark plugs?

 

look at your underhood fusible links

 

I drive a '94 gxe also...garage kepted ...no rust that i know of. However i commute daily at freeway speeds 75 plus. And once in a while i will hear something like knock (like a rock) hitting the bottom of the chasis.....now ya got me wondering if this could be a worn bushing somewhere???

85k on the speedo...

 

I just did that and discovered that the radiator fans aren't working either. Could a blown 45A radiator fuse (indicated on the fusebox cover) be the cause of all my problems?

 

my rule of thumb, fix what you see as bad even if it appears to be unrelated.

 

Yes i have changed the spark plugs already spankin' new...anyoneknow where i can get instructions on how to remove the rear manifold to check those injectors? Or is it really that complicated, total n00b here who doesn't want to kill his car :S ty

 

i thought that code's description would indicate the CAS??? or is that another different code? like, that the ECU is not reading any RPM or reading what position in the firing cycle the cams are at.... thus not attempting to fire injectors or spark or something like that.

 

put the new timing belt and tensioner in.
tried to start it before putting everything back on.
and it started right up. put cover, belts, etc back on.
now its running sluggish and doesnt respond quickly to the gas pedal.
it will rev when its in P. but when i put it in D it doesnt want to move or respond at all.
changed out the tps and nothing.
checked all the vaccumm lines and everything seems dandy.
any ideas? im broke so a new engine is outta the question.
my 240 was much easier to work on. lol.

 

you may wanna pull the covers back off, and check to make sure the belt didn't somehow jump a tooth, and the tensioner is properly torqued (adjusted, whatever)
also, go through, and check to see if any wires were disconnected(or damaged) in the process.

 

Also on the VE engine i found a wire that was completely severed that connects to the block near the EGC valve is that for the vacuum or what? Either way i spliced that and no it will crank and idle but only around 300-400 rpm's and Cyl 3&5 still no combustion.

 

my tranny has been acting a little weird the past 2 days. the other day it didnt want to shift out of gear like there was no 1 and 2nd gear then that very night and the following day it was ok. so i planned on replacing the tranny filter but cant seem to find the pan or plug for it on this nissan. anyone know the location of this pan?

 

there isn't a filter or pan.
it's just drain and fill.

 

Alright, got a new battery, car worked fine for two or three days and now, all the electrical system turned off (deck, headlights, backligthing for gauges) but my battery light did not come on or any other light except the airbag. When i give it some gas the engine makes popping sounds, goes about 30 feet and then the car dies completely. Taking it in to the dealer or a shop today, jsut curious what you guys think it is.

Thanks

 

hello i try to bypass the front speaker bose with only using the 2 small wires which are green and a black one, i can only hear a small amount of sound coming from until i turn then up very loud. i have an aftermarket h/u and i dont want to change out the rear bose cause its has some nice bass and its still working, so the question is why is it so low in sound what am i doing wrong i tried all the combinations too

 

the bose speakers are 1ohm speakers rather than the standard of 4ohms.
when the amps are used they are amplifying what is basically a line-level signal.

Swap out the front bose speakers for some regular speakers, it's the best thing to do with an aftermarket H/U

 

i did im trying to put some 4 ohm pioneers in

 

are these the ones you are having problems with?
if so, just bypass the stock wiring, and run new speaker wire to the speakers.
are you using the line out on the hu for the rears?

 

im not too sure of my h/u setup cause i got it done at bestbuy and the previous owner had another h/u in it which broke n i had to get it done, the bestbuy guy said it was a mess and he re organized the wires, i saw its now nice n neat, its my font speakers i have very low sound on it and when i plug it in it make a pop first and then i turn up the volume n i can hear its on. i pluged wires directly to the h/u and same results. i really want all my speakers to work i dont want to feel like i have a deaf right ear lmao thanks alot im a real noob in stero systems

 

so can anyone help me with the wiring colors and maybe why its very low and make a pop when it turns on

 

your pop is because their is probably an aftermarket amp wired into your system somewhere and it lacks a soft turn on feature.
the sound is low because the system is mismatched. Replace all the speakers with aftermarket and bypass all the amps and you will get good sound.

 

is it ok to leave the rears? i like the bose thumps

 

it depends on how you have it wired up. regardless, like brian said, it will be mismatched. and you may be surprised on how some 6x9s hit, too.

 

ok thanks for all you peoples help I will get to it this weekened

 

Found out it was a clogged up catalytic converter. Took it off, knocked all the stuff out of it, and it has run fine since. Got to put a new flex pipe/straight pipe with O2 bung on it. In AL, we don't have smog checks. Thankfully

 

your thump has a large amount to do with your H/U.
I've played around with different H/Us with the same speakers and the H/U makes all the difference in the thump.

 

rms, eq, or just simply quality?

 

Quantity.

the Bass hit harder on some H/Us than others.
of course I've seen many a OE H/U hit very hard.

 

i dont have a problem with the rear amps now but is it going to sound the same if i have the amp off , what difference would it make

 

if the bose amps are disconnected, you wont hear anything, unless the installers fubar'd something.

 

they could have been bypassed.

 

and i consider that fubar'd

 

I consider that a good thing

 

we are both talking about the bose amp AND speakers, right?

 

hello,

i recently purchased blaupunkt speakers for the rear and a sony 420ip deck. i decided to pass on replacing the front speakers because im on a budget for this car.

anyways, i bought my stuff from crutchfield and they told me that i might not be able to replace the factory speaker covers for the rear speakers..

i was wondering if there is any way i can do that because i really like the blaupunkt speaker covers and it will really stand out.

any help is appreciated. thanks.

- kobedaman24

 

you can do anything you set your mind to. here is some food for thought: the hole for the speakers isn't 6x9, so you wouldn't see the whole speaker, unless you cut the rear deck to fit it in.
the speaker grilles are attached to the rear deck cover. you could remove them, but I cannot be sure the blaupunkt covers will fit as replacements. you could go to the hardware store and buy some 1/8th plywood, swing by a car audio shop pick up some box carpet, and make a new deck cover to fit in place on the deck, with the speaker covers.

 

The Bose Speaker/Amp setup that came in the 3rd gen Max was one of the worst setups I've heard to date for a stock stereo. Even my 88 Camaro with stock speakers and H/U sounds better. I'm with Brian on this one. A Bose Amp bypass is an improvement.

 

my meaning was that bypassing the amp to go to the bose speaker is not a good idea. if it is bypassed to aftermarket speakers, the everything is okay.

 

ohhhhh.... Well that now makes more sense.

 

I can't post new threads yet so ill ask in here: KYB GR2's w/ Ksport Lowering springs. Decent or bad idea?