going boost soon but some ?'s
#1
going boost soon but some ?'s
Well Im looking for another maxima and i will be putting a SC in her, ive done research on what ill need and what not, but i have a few questions i didnt find the full answers to.
1. I think ill be going with the 3.48 pulley or the 3.33, do they need different FMU disks and would the 3.33 be pushing the stock fuel system?
2. What might the HP difference be between the 2 pulleys?
3. Would the vortech FMU be sufficient or would the cartech be needed?
4. I will be going with the walbro 255lph pump.
5. Now about the gauges, ive seen that everyone's ideas for the must have gauges are different. Am i correct in going for the Vac/Boost, EGT Temp, Fuel Pressure, and A/F? do i really need all 4?
6. would an engine oil cooler be highly beneficial for a boosted car? (better safe than sorry)
7. If the car has the stock clutch, is there any point in keeping it or should i just drop in an ACT while im installing? Basically would the stock clutch last at all with 8-9psi of boost?
Thanks for all your help
Brett
1. I think ill be going with the 3.48 pulley or the 3.33, do they need different FMU disks and would the 3.33 be pushing the stock fuel system?
2. What might the HP difference be between the 2 pulleys?
3. Would the vortech FMU be sufficient or would the cartech be needed?
4. I will be going with the walbro 255lph pump.
5. Now about the gauges, ive seen that everyone's ideas for the must have gauges are different. Am i correct in going for the Vac/Boost, EGT Temp, Fuel Pressure, and A/F? do i really need all 4?
6. would an engine oil cooler be highly beneficial for a boosted car? (better safe than sorry)
7. If the car has the stock clutch, is there any point in keeping it or should i just drop in an ACT while im installing? Basically would the stock clutch last at all with 8-9psi of boost?
Thanks for all your help
Brett
#2
1. I still have the "stock" FMU ratio with my 3.12" V2
2. Each pulley size = 10hp
3. Adjustable FPR "suggested" to lower back base fuel pressure if you use #4 below...
4. Not necessary if you keep aux fuel pump...
5. EGT and FP
6. Not really necessary (though I'm running a dedicated S/C oil cooler...)
7. 3.33" will be more than enough power to fry your stock clutch... I was making my stock clutch slip with the 3.6".... But you can baby it until you have money for the ACT...
Use Search for additional info....
2. Each pulley size = 10hp
3. Adjustable FPR "suggested" to lower back base fuel pressure if you use #4 below...
4. Not necessary if you keep aux fuel pump...
5. EGT and FP
6. Not really necessary (though I'm running a dedicated S/C oil cooler...)
7. 3.33" will be more than enough power to fry your stock clutch... I was making my stock clutch slip with the 3.6".... But you can baby it until you have money for the ACT...
Use Search for additional info....
#3
Is the ACT the clutch all you SC'd guys are using? I was talking with the guy who helped me install the kit and he said when my transmission blows, 5speed w/ACT was the best way to go. I've seen several threads about ACT's blowing gears out and whatnot, soooo...
ACT still the best way to go when aiming for 350fwhp?
Back to your questions though:
EGT / Boost & Fuel Pressure are the biggies. Unless you get a wideband O2 sensor, most af gauges aren't as good as the EGT's.
Walbro's always a good idea, and with a 3.33" pulley, you can still use the 6:1 FMU disk, so you should be fine in the fuel department. Assuming you have the proper exhaust (2.5" the entire way back) you should expect a ~15-30fwhp gain from a 3.6" to a 3.33"
ACT still the best way to go when aiming for 350fwhp?
Back to your questions though:
EGT / Boost & Fuel Pressure are the biggies. Unless you get a wideband O2 sensor, most af gauges aren't as good as the EGT's.
Walbro's always a good idea, and with a 3.33" pulley, you can still use the 6:1 FMU disk, so you should be fine in the fuel department. Assuming you have the proper exhaust (2.5" the entire way back) you should expect a ~15-30fwhp gain from a 3.6" to a 3.33"
#4
But you wouldnt need a AEM or SARD fpr on this s/c setup if you keep the aux pump that comes with the stillen kit. Reason being is that it only comes on when it senses boost because of the hobbs switch.
Dixit
Dixit
#7
Originally Posted by USDM-A32
Seems like you've got most of your answers already. May I suggest getting an aluminum radiator over an oil cooler, a new radiator is much more beneficial.
We don't need them for S/C anyways (at least in milder climates)...
I do believe it is more important on Turbos where they generate significantly more heat under the hood. My car never gets above 92C....
#8
Originally Posted by Chunger
Unfortunately there are no aftermarket hi-po radiators for our cars...
We don't need them for S/C anyways (at least in milder climates)...
I do believe it is more important on Turbos where they generate significantly more heat under the hood. My car never gets above 92C....
We don't need them for S/C anyways (at least in milder climates)...
I do believe it is more important on Turbos where they generate significantly more heat under the hood. My car never gets above 92C....
#9
Thanks for all your help guys, guess ill stick with the aux fuel pump, FMU and only get 3 gauges (egt, fp and boost) about the oil cooler, who knows, better safe than sorry maybe.
Chunger--- how do you have your dedicated cooler set up??
Brett
Chunger--- how do you have your dedicated cooler set up??
Brett
#10
Originally Posted by Krash513
Thanks for all your help guys, guess ill stick with the aux fuel pump, FMU and only get 3 gauges (egt, fp and boost) about the oil cooler, who knows, better safe than sorry maybe.
Chunger--- how do you have your dedicated cooler set up??
Brett
Chunger--- how do you have your dedicated cooler set up??
Brett
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