Ok, Just had a rebuild trans, clutchnet w/fiber carbon pro. Broken in almost 2k , about 600 was around town. Clutch wants to change to where it does not want to come off the floor and ingages really early. It's like it changes itself, any ideas, answers. thanks guys for your help, Im trying to make it to the dc meet this weekend

 

Check the clutch master cylinder. I had a honda do the same exact thing and that cured it.

 

definitly master or slave cylinder issue

 

will do, Im going to try bleeding the upper line and if that doesn't work then I will have to change one of those.

 

Hmmm...I am having a little tranny/clutch issue myself and this might be my problem as well.

Your clutch pedal will actually go to the floor and not come up? Mine is not doing that, but it does seem to not disengage all the way sometimes. I am going to adjust the clutch to grab higher up and see if that is my issue. The engagement seems to have gone really low as well.

I also have the carbon fiber pro with about 3K miles on it or so. But I suspect my problems to not be as simple as an engagement issue.

My tranny is fine when I first start diving it. But after 20-30 in it gets really hard to get into gear after I come to a stop. I was thinking mine was heat related, but I just don't know anymore.

 

My pedal is doing the same thing. The pressure is there, but it sits so low that i'd have to press it thru the firewall to get the clutch to disengage completly. And i bled the lines and that didn't help. Also my pedal wont come all the way up (even with the brake pedal) even if i yank on it with my hand. Does your's do the same thing?

 

The pedal comes back up when I pull it out. I adjusted my engagement so it grabs higher and felt goodbut after driving on the highway for 10 miles it was back to the same sh#t. Before adjusting it out it actually wouldn't let me get in gear. I am thinking it must be my master cylinder. This is my 2nd after market clutch so Im probably do. Third trans rebuild ( just got it done about 2k ago or 4 weeks). HOw much is a master cylinder anyway? Im justtired of putting money in this car. I am used to it but tired

Hey, does or did your clutch net grab really good. I have noticed that when shifting from 2nd to 3rd at redline the rpm's drop to around 4k before the clutch grabs. Im hoping this is do to the master cylinder. I was driving rather aggressive the night before this problem occured. I noticed when I first got my max back that the clutch engagement was slowly rising upward.

 

I adjusted my clutch pedal and all is well for now, but I also need to do some more driving to know if the fix is permenant

 

I have not messed with it since yesterday. Tomorrow I will take another look at it. Im thinking maybe if I adjust the engagement and then adjust the pedal that might work. Right now my clutch and brake pedals are even.

Yes, when it gets hot is when it will start acting up. I couldn't get into 1st gear after driving for 20 min the other day. If its not the adjustment its probably going to be the master cylinder. I will keep you posted

 

Well i don't mean to hijack your thread, but my problem is that the clutch pedal won't line up even with the brake pedal. Like it's stuck 2-3 down on the pedal travel. Even if i yank on it, it won't come even. It's not even reaching the cruise control switch thing. Any ideas??

 

And you have already adjusted the pedal to grab futher out or not?

 

How would i adjust that? The only adjustments im aware of are the free-play which is adjusted by the nut on the piston that goes into the firewall, and the pedal height which is adjusted by the cruise control switch.

 

Now clutch keeps grabbing higher and higher till it won't engage the flywheel. Adjust it down again and it does the same thing...graps higher and higher till the clutch slips. No leaks at any of the lines and the fluid is to the top

 

Might want to change the fluid. On a dumb a$$ note of the day award. I remember putting some fluid in my clutch resevoir in a hurry last week. After thinking about what I did I realized I put power steering fluid in instead of brake fluid !!! Yes, that was retarded. So now Im going to buy a turkey baster to suck this krap out and refill with some sythetic brake fluid. haha, hopefully this is what my problem is. I think after doing this the clutch should bounce back 100%. I will let you guys know later on tonight how all this went.

 

I had the exact problem with my clutch, pedal would stick down after shifting and I couldnt get it in gear. I went away for a few weeks, came back and pushed the clutch down and it stayed down for good. Got it towed to the shop and he showed me that I had 0 clutch fluid left because my master cylinder and something else were leaking. Hope this helps.

 

Well, I filled up the clutch fluid. Adjusted the pedal and the clutch angagement. Seems to be much better with no problems. I just think I got the wrong disc for my application (fiber carbon pro) just isn't enough clutch for me. It slips down to 4k when I shift at redline so it looks like I need the 6 puck.

 

Im thinking of getting the sprung 6 puck myself from clutchnet

 

sounds like its the way to go. Not too much pp force and a gripy clutch disc. I had the act stage 1 and it looked like shiat when it came out along with the fly wheel. I have the clutchnet pp so I have half the battle done. Just sux to have to go back in there and do it again!

 

What exactly do you mean it "slips down to 4K"?. How does it slip down.


And for an update on my situation, I bled all the old nasty black fluid out and got all new stuff in the system. The clutch still didn't want to take to the adjustments I made to the engagement. Then I realized something that I think has been a major part of my problems all along. For whatever reason I had the cruise switch adjusted all the way down which was keeping the clutch pedal from comming up all the way. I was robbing the clutch of about an inch of play. This would definately cause problems with adjustment. So I backed out the cruise switch all the way and the clutch responded exactly how it should when adjusting the master cylinder screw. It has been grabbing in the perfect spot and has not moved for the last 100 miles. No more disengagement problems.