True, very true

 

So Dandy at the moment what functions on EU works and what don't. I think it was briefly said ealrier in this thread but I think with the focus of this crank reading problem, some of us (I hope I'm not the only one) has forgot or lost track of what works and wat doesn't.

 

Well a bit of up's and down's this weekend.

Took it out and drove it a bit. I had hesitation around 4500rpm and then it started in around 3500rpm. I was a bit nervous about what was happening, so I dropped it in neutral and rev'd it, heard a pop and immediately got a P0340 Cam A code(weird since should only occur at cranking~!). No idea what that sound was, but I figured the worst although it idled/rev'd okay. Anyways, that got me worried, so I parked it for the night. The next day I went back to stock and cleared the CEL preparing for bad news and a trip to the dealer, but the code didn't come back. So, I said what the hell. I reconnected my analog maps TPS intercept(since Dandy said it was correct) and I had a BAD idle and TPS wasn't logging as I expected. I figured out it was because the analog output table only went as low as 0.5V and the FSM says the range at idle was 0.15V-0.85V. I expanded the table down to 0V and up to 4.10V and it idled much better, but just a bit high ~900rpm. TPS seemed to track better too. I took it out for several WOT runs and the hesitation was gone and it ran like a scalded ape in the cool 70s air.

So, I parked it for the night and started digging into the logs to see what could have caused the hesitation that had now been fixed. It appears my MAF voltage is WAY way too high even hitting as much as 4.0-4.2V(not possible since that'd be ~300whp) and my IDC hit 100% by ~5300rpm. Definitely, not right and probably why it ran so strong, ie timing was severly advanced. I'm still trying to figure out why this is happening, but since input MAF voltage equals output MAF voltage, I don't have a clue. Also, my tap on the coolant sensor and/or jumper setting caused my engine coolant temp to be much lower then actual, so the fans weren't kicking on. This wasn't an issue while moving in the cool air at night, however after idling in the garage, the temp needle started rising but still no fans. I'm going to check/move a jumper tonight(pretty sure that's why), but if that doesn't work I'll just forget about logging the CLT.

So, pretty fun, but scary weekend. Moral of the story is...only hook up the BASIC functions and get it running normally...THEN go add each additional feature one at a time and see what happens.

 

Icey my MAF hits just over 4v at 5300... I think that's normal. It's not a linear curve... the higher the rpms go the slower the maf voltage increases. Put a multimeter on there just to test that the EU is displaying correctly, but I'm fairly certain it's correct. I've seen the same thing using the Zeitronix datalogger too... it matched my EU very well which was good to see.

However my IDC was way more in line... 76% roughly at 6500 rpms.. so something's going on there with yours. Do you have any scaling applied on the main setup?

Send me your em2 file if you wish, and yeah, check the jumpers I'd say for the coolant issue. What temp readings were you getting? Do you have the air temp hooked up too?

 

I have A/F add/trim working fine. The relay and solenoid driver outputs work fine. Pretty much most things work except features that need a crank signal input (like timing advance and rev limit extend). Timing retard should still work (it shouldn't be any different than the Blue). The wait is on for the firmware update now... I'll check in with Kenji at Greddy probably Wed.

 

No scaling or maps selected besides the analog output map for the TPS.

The in/out on the MAF question was a mis-write, I had ignition signals on the brain.

 

Kind of hard to see, since Cardomain is shrinking them so much but...

100% DC snapshot:



Redline snapshot:


For others looking...
Dark Blue = Injector input/output duty cycle
Red = RPM
Light Green = TPS
Teal/Light Blue = MAF in/out voltage

 

When do you think the new firmware update will be available? I'm going to pick up one in a couple of days and the crank signal input is a must.

 

Changed JP13 and JP14 to OPEN like it came from Greddy and the fan kicked on at exactly 203F like the FSM says it should. Not sure why I had changed them to 1-2.

Yes, I have the air temp hooked up.

 

Dan,

Does your yellow Interaction LED slowly flash when the engine is running?

The manual says that means the EU is "confirming engine rpm", which I'm sure is because I'm using the ignition pulse for RPM.

I'm going to try doing some runs this weekend with the RPM/tach wire and Front Panel setting to see if it still does that or runs better.

 

Glad you got the coolant issue solved, I figured it would just be the jumper.

Yeah my light flashes slowly using the ignition input. About every 2.5 to 3 secs at idle. If the laptop's hooked up and communicating it's flashing rapidly, and I noticed it was just steadily on before when I had the crank and cam connected (although not picking up the signal). I'm wondering if flashing for "confirming rpm" is normal... ie. - will it be the case once we get a crank signal.

Did you get a chance to do anything with your VSS? I need to play with that a bit more too and see if I can get it close. I'll try and give your DC problem a bit of thought as well if I get a chance, it's a busy week for me.

 

Sorry I can't say for sure yet. I asked Kenji today to check in with Japan and find out if they can give us a timeline. He mentioned how long he thought it may take but I'm reluctant to post it and get everyone's hopes up if it doesn't happen. I'd rather hear something from Japan.

 

I'll have my fingers crossed, just keep us posted and once you here any thing let us know.

Thanks

 

hrmm... this hasnt been updated in a few days... any new updates guys?

 

Nope, we're just waiting for an update from Japan.

 

i just jumped in on the band wagon.. i got two =D... now ireally do hope japan gets back to us on this.

 

Whats the update?

 

v1.08 is released...doesn't look like anything new is useful, but maybe Dandy can try the TY_1 crank type again.

I've had to sideline my EU project, since I no longer have a job and therefore no access to a laptop.

 

wtf.. sorry to hear man.. i hope all goes well.

 

Ouch sorry to hear that Alex. Good luck in the job search.

I should be talking to Kenji today. I'll find out what's up.

 

Alex, I'm sorry about that. I did see the post that Mohd made over at the yahoo board.

 

Sorry to hear about your job bud, gl in the search.

 

Thanks guys...it's a blessing in disguise, I'm sure.

 

That kinda **** happens man, you'll recover though- and usually you recover stronger. So just keep your hopes up!

 

Tested the TY_1 out again tonight. It's worse than before, which means they probably actually fixed it for the Toyota guys. lol. There's no way it should have been as close as it was before (not that it was that close really)...

But now rpms are way off and timing even more so.. annoying as it is we just have to wait for our own update. Hurry up Greddy! The end of the track season is fast approaching and I'm still waiting to get on a dyno and tune.

 

good effort tho, i hope they get to our engines asap..

alex: do we 5th gens have to run the resistors to not throw the misfiring code? or will we not need it once greddy gets it right?

 

Mingo you still the need the resistors. Even I put them in now on my 4th gen. It's not related to the crank signal pickup, nor is it a misfiring issue. The car runs smoothly and doesn't misfire. But it's necessary because it seems the ECU doesn't always see an electrical load with the EU intercepting the ignition wires (each coil should be a load but since they're getting intercepted by the EU the ECU thinks they're not there and throws the P1320 code, ie Ignition Signal - Primary).

 

thanks dandy,

as far as the resistors go, do i have to open up the eu to put it in? or can i solder it onto the wires that goes to the ecu? becaues i rather not open up the eu

 

Well, you could do it either way I suppose as long as the resistors are put in between the ECU and the EU. I did it inside the EU itself... less messy and out of sight. Plus if you ever take it out and go back to just an ECU w/o piggyback, then you don't have the extra resistors still wired in. But that was just my preference. It does require a bit more careful soldering if you do it that way though.

 

Running the EU, you will need to put in the resistors ?? Where will they need to put in.

-matt

 

This thread has some more info and a couple of good pics courtesy of Alex.

But basically you need to tie in a resistor (to ground) on each of the 6 ignition output lines from the ECU (inputs to the EU). This will provide the load the ECU is expecting to see on each line.

I was going to use 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors (this is a standard size you can get at most electronic supply stores), but they were out of stock so I ended up using 390 ohm 1/2 watt and they seem to have worked fine.

Note that you don't have to do the wiring inside the EU (as mingo was asking about). If you choose to, you can do it on the wiring harness itself in between the ECU and EU, but I preferred not to do that.

 

Is that just for the 5th gens?

 

No. Dandy, didn't you get this code too?

 

Yes I got it too, so it doesn't seem to matter, 4th gen or 5th gen, the resistors need to be added.

I suppose I could mention this to Greddy, maybe they could do something.. but if not, or in the mean time at least, the resistor trick seems to work.

 

they proposed releasing a new igntion harness with built in diodes when we talked to their techs a few years ago while I was installing Redmax's emanage blue...this was about 2 years ago, so you can see what developed from that...
I thought the new firmware corrected this in the blue, so I would have assumed EU would definently improved it? I'm glad there are guys out here guinea pigging the EU and taking time out, cause IMO it was greatly rushed by Greddy and not fully tested or ready for release.

 

But the diodes were to combat the coil burning problem, no? I think the EU corrected that problem (ie no diodes required)... The resistor/load issue is a bit different.

But you're right the product was VERY rushed. I mean I'd like to know how many cars in the supported list actually worked with crank signal pickup right away. I bet very few.

 

Different problem....

The Blue needed diodes on the OUTPUT to lower the voltage to the coils, so the coils would turn off. The EU needs resistors on the INPUT(ECU->EU) to simulate a load, since the EU is intercepting the signal to the coils.

Two completely different issues, but at least one person(not including the wiring fiasco people) has fried coils supposedly with the new EU. So, it may not be completely solved even though they redesigned the ignition circuits, but it definitely seems rare/less common.

 

hopefully it was installer error that fried themz coils, i've replaced my coils twice.

 

I tend to think that one incident was an exception quite possibly caused by something else... and it wasn't on a Maxima either.

My coils haven't fried and I've had the car sitting there in just the ON position (not running) for a minute or more several times. I also felt the coils a couple times to see if they were heating up but they seemed cool enough. I'm not really worried about it too much at this point.

 

i'm excited mine's coming in a few minutes =D.. but i still need the harness