LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

Hell it allows me to get the SC out in about an hour and I have very big hands with sausage fingers. It make life a lot easier to do.
I had my body shop look at it to make sure it would not hurt the stregth of the frame.

TJ_Max

iTrader: (10)

Pretty cool. I just went out to break Cmax's 30 minute SC takedown time. And did it, muahaha!

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

I actually considered that last night! - lol. So you just remove your plastic wheel lining and wa-la, you have an access portal to bolts 14 and 15? Cool.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Not much progress since last week. I was busy all weekend and didn't have a chance to work on the car until last night (Monday). It took me all night just to get the darn SC off the bracket, the pulley off the SC and then hack the leg to make clearance for the belt (going from 3.25" pulley to 2.87" pulley). Of course I bent my allen wrench again using a pipe to get the allen bolts off to separate the SC from the bracket. Needless to say, I got the inevitable scraped knuckles. Them I had to remember the trick of wraping the belt around the pulley to keep it from spinning while I undid its bolt. Then the very fun part of getting the pulley off the SC. I know I should use a pulley puller but I just used two long screwdrivers wrapped in a sock placed in opposite directions and leveraged it off. Then, since I refuse to chop my leg off completely if I don't have to, I spent 1-2 hours with a hacksaw and dremil trying to cut my leg in half but not completely off. There isn't much left but I salvaged about 25% of it. It really acts only as a spacer anyway since there are no actuall threads in the leg. So... hopefully she will be all back together in one or two more nights.

TJ_Max

iTrader: (10)

Nice, you think about shaving/grinding down that part of the plate that slips under the tensioner? . That would save you like an hour off off your uninstall/install time.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

It crossed my mind. But no, it's not worth it. I'd rather have all the strength I can. If I pulled the SC out once a month, maybe, but hopefully this will be it for a long time (I think The Wizard and I average once a year, lol). Besides, I think I would sooner leave the allen bolt out before I would actually chop that part of the plate off.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

O.k. guys, UPDATE: While I haven't completely put everything back together (I got sidetracked trying to fix an oil leak), I did a temp. install by installing 2-3 bolts on the blower to bracket and 2-3 bolts on the bracket to car with the GatorBack 4060695. I put the pullies back in and routed the belt. The 695 fits like a glove! With the adjuster pulley in the highest (loosest) position, the belt just barely, with medium to hard effort, makes it over the AC compressor pulley. Perfect!! So, in conclusion:

If you have a 2.87" pulley and a V2 bracket, use the GatorBack 4060695 belt size.

Mod., sticky update please?

TJ_Max

iTrader: (10)

Actually, we tried that on my friend's car and his tensioner bracket really needed to be bolted in at the top because he kept shredding belts. SO we stopped being lazy and put it in and he was fine. So don't go that route if it ever came down to it. Don't grind the nub, but either way you need that bolt in there.

Nice, that sounds like a perfect fit. These are with the stock pullies, of course. You even kept the stillen plastic idler pulley?

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

Hmmmm... so my chart worked for you. You must not have the Lexus metal pulley.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Yes sir. Everything is from the stock Stillen SC kit.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Eeeeeerrrrrrrr.........uhhhhhhhhhhh..........mmmmm mmmmmm..................no, it didn't. You/your chart recommended the 690. But since you and Flavor said the 690 was really tight I decided to try the 695.

No Lexus metal pulley (no need).

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

Cool, glad you will be up & running soon.

TJ_Max

iTrader: (10)

We'll see. Buahahahahaa. j/k. Hey Latin, you kept pushing for the belt that wouldn't even fit (4060690). We can't give you credit, lol.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, we'll see. But if my plastic one hasn't melted the entire time it was on my '96 and for the last year on my '99 and Jim's hasn't melted on his '99 in the last year, I don't think it will. I'm not trying to sound cocky or conceited but I truly believe that 9 times out of 10 (if not 10 out of 10), those with pulley melting and belt skipping/shreading problems are due to poor install and/or poor belt tension. Of course I'm probably jinxing myself by saying this and my belt new belt will shread within 100 miles. :/



Well, according to what Latin and Flavor said, the 690 will fit but it is tight. So the 695 is probably the better choice. And Latin did help a lot because I wouldn't have known to buy the 695 if he didn't mention the 690 was tight. Either way, now we know.

TJ_Max

iTrader: (10)

I was just busting you and Latin's chops. I think the v1 plate is overrated also. I have the metal idler pulley from dayco and the lexus tensioner pulley. I think that's all you need really. Even with a crappy install these things save your ***. Either that or get them installed as good as yours and Jim have them installed, with the stock pullies. And yes, you did just jinx yourself. LOL. I hope you didn't though. Just cool that a bunch of us changed pullies around the same time huh?

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, that is cool.

Well, I (finally) wrapped things up last night. She's all back together. Doing the allen bolt, hole #14, and the idler pulley without siderails, hole #15, was, as usual, a major pain in the a. But I managed. Each time I do this, I learn a few tricks. I always hated having to apply the thread locker blue to all bolts and then work as fast as you can before the stuff dries. This time I put every single bolt in without threadlocker, took my time, and when I felt good about everything, I backed one bolt out at a time to apply the threadlocker and put the bolt back in. I also used just a little dot of thread locker this time, that stuff is vicious - a little bit goes a long way. I put my SC and SC plate together only to notice I routed the belt the wrong way. Off it came again, cleaned off the thread locker and went for it again. Well.... I forgot the captive bolts! Dohhh. But.....that's o.k..... with the 2.87" you don't need to worry about the captive bolts any more! Nice. Actually it might be wise to make bolt #7 captive but, it can be just barely forced into place if need be. It is also really nice to be nowhere near the upper AC line with the smaller 2.87" pulley. The problem now lies with the belt just barely missing itself right to the left of the pulley without side rails and above the pulley with siderails. Yikes! They are about 1/8" apart! I feel like I now need a smaller diameter pulley without siderails.

I started the car last night but didn't drive. I drove the car to work today but haven't gotten on it yet. So far so good. The smaller pulley did raise my blower outlet temps, as I predicted. It got up to 100^F cruising on the highway at 70MPH. The cool (pun) thing is, my water to air aftercooled side temp. didn't raise! It used to be about 10^ less at highway cruising but today it was 20^ less! It was still 80^ while the blower was 100^ even though it used to be 80^ when the blower was 90^.

Anyway, I'll report back with butt dyno results, peak boost numbers and peak intake temp. numbers after I get on it.

TJ_Max

iTrader: (10)

Nice job. Get on it! LOL. I noticed that also, the belts barely miss eachother but they have yet to actually touch so all should be well in there. Can't wait for the numbers. I have yet to buy a friggin boost gauge.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

O.k., I got on it a few times on the way home yesterday.

Butt dyno = much bigger difference with the new 2.87" pulley (from the 3.25" pulley). Definitely more power and definitely more throttle response.

Max Boost was just a lick under 10PSI.

Max temp. for the blower outlet (non-aftercooled side) was 185^F which is 35^ higher than my 3.25" pulley!!!! (8PSI vs 10PSI).

Max temp. for the aftercooled side was 145^ which is also up about 35^.

PmpLuxCEO

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I would say this thread is closed, but I have a question.

How much bigger are the ASP metal pulleys over the stillen plastics? I notice that everybody went with a 2.87 pulley but i'm running a V2 with a 3.125 pulley and upgraded ASP metal pulleys since my plastic ones seized/melted. . . The chart says i should get a gatorback 4060705... so should i get a 4060710? I've only had the belt on for about 2000 miles, and it shredded. There's rubber dust all over the left side of my engine bay. This would be the second time it's shredded, so does that mean my belt is too tight?

Thanks for the help in advance.

matty

iTrader: (54)

NO, it means that your V2 Plate is showing the signs of a V2 plate installed wrong. You can either keep installing belts every few thousand or hundred miles or switch over to a V1 plate design and be done with it.

-matt

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I bet your problem lies with the tensioner pulley components and/or how they are installed. The order of the washers/parts can be confusing on the tensioner pulley, and if done wrong, is probably the cause of most (if not all) belt shredding issues IMO. Also, did you put all the bolts in that mount the plate to the engine?? and did you make sure the plate is sitting flush against the object it's mounted to? I ask because some people leave out a bolt here and here due to difficulty of install.

I don't mean to insult you, but did you shave the legs of the supports properly so the belt doesn't rub? That could be the rubber dust you see. As far as belt tightness, do you know how to properly tighten the belt? An overtightened belt should never occur.

PmpLuxCEO

iTrader: (3)

It's been awhile so let me try to recollect.

I had originally bought this kit used from a fellow maxima.org member. When I received it, all the parts were there and I proceeded to install. All went well except one bolt, which seemed to be stuck on the mounting plate. There was no way of getting it out, and at the time it seemed ok since there were many other bolts to keep the plate secure to the engine. Car ran fine all the way up until I blew the engine (long story, not relevant to the supercharger)

Here's where things get fuzzy. I took the car to get a new engine, and the question came up where they asked, do you want to keep the supercharger. Yes... so the charger was swapped over to the new engine. I was not there to watch the mechanics swap the supercharger over, soooo for all I know, it could have been put together wrong, as I told them I would run home and get the instructions and bring them back, but when I returned, they had already swapped everything over "perfectly".

Since I'm going to be the one under the car changing the belt this time, I am going to check all these things that you mention, and let you know.

Thanks for the heads up. If all looks good and i'm still shredding, I might take the plunge and spring for Matty's V1 conversion.

PmpLuxCEO

iTrader: (3)

5 hours later, a friend and I emerge victorious from under the car!

Had some real trouble taking the charger off the mounting plate.
All the pulleys look ok, no sign of wear or nicks. . all smooth.
bolts 14 and 18 are not on. Don't have any replacement bolts so we didn't bother putting them in. Very PITA.

The belt that shredded was a 5060705, apparantly this was a dayco poly-cog. Anybody use those before? .. swapped to a goodyear gatorback 4060705. There is a difference. The goodyear gatorback is thicker and wider by at least an 1/8 of an inch. The gatorback fit on the s/c pulley much better than the gates belt. Also, the tensioner and idler pulleys were re-adjusted. The whole system looks like it's clear and not rubbing up against anything.

If it shreds again i'm gonna do the V1 swap, but everything looks like it's running hunky dorey for now. Thank you all for your replies.

i30krab

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget I'm getting the new gates blue tuner belt tomorrow. It has rib material made out of something,I forget, that is as strong as kevlar.
I'll keep you posted. The guys at gates told me they're 3x's stronger than the stock belts! Gates finally wised up and is getting into the tuner market.
Up til now I've been using a gatorback.

mforrest100

iTrader: (24)

Do you have a website?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

So, did you make sure you put back the tensioner pulley and all its components back correctly? Was it wrong to begin with? Also, I asked this before, but you didn't address it. I don't mean to insult you, but did you shave the legs of the supports properly so the belt doesn't rub? That could be the rubber dust you see. Know what I mean? Just want to make sure you didn't overlook something.

I'm running a Gatorback belt as well.

I'd get bolts 14 and 18 put back in.

i30krab

iTrader: (1)

NO, But I just saved a bundle on my insurance!

PmpLuxCEO

iTrader: (3)

We put back the tensioner pulley and its components back correctly. It looked like they were fine to begin with. I think the belt might have been too tight initially, we checked measured deflection according to the install guide, service manual pic that you and ptatohd must have created together. BTW, awesome guide.

Yes, support legs are shaved. Belt doesn't rub anywhere.

Thanks for the help, and yes, I wanna see wassup with that new gates tuner belt that is released. I haven't seen it anywhere available yet here.