5speed Swap Complete - Sputtering at low RPMS though...
#1
5speed Swap Complete - Sputtering at low RPMS though...
I'm SC'd, z32 injectors, A32 Maf, MEVI stuck closed, SAFC, Cartech FMU, 2.87" Pulley. This happened with my automatic, but I didn't pay much mind to it. Now it's definitely important since I need to engage around that area! Car shifts fine, everything seems perfect transmission wise. Getting codes read tonight to make sure it's more than just a tranny code from the swap.
What happens is, I go to engage, i'm a rookie, so I actually tap the gas pedal a few times. But if I tap the gas fully and pull my foot off fast, car kinda sputters, hesitates and gurgles a bit.
Looked for a vacuum hose loose, found nothing. I checked my throttle cable and it has a lot of slack! Bad part is, the nut to adjust it, is backed all the way out so it's as far as it will go. I thought that would be the issue, but I revved it up from the engine bay using the throttle body controller? (whatever the throttle cable hooks up to), and it still does the same thing. Hesitates and sputters. Happens under 3k, i'd say.
I have to engage now by revving the car up to like 3k now. Once I take off it cruises okay, but when i floor it, pedal to the floor, the car is slower than it was N/A throughout the entire power band. My friend said his knock sensor on his accord causes problems like these, but any ideas? Suggestions? I have a new knock sensor laying around, I hope that's the issue. And how do I tighten the throttle cable? Is there somewhere by the pedal I can tighten it up?
What happens is, I go to engage, i'm a rookie, so I actually tap the gas pedal a few times. But if I tap the gas fully and pull my foot off fast, car kinda sputters, hesitates and gurgles a bit.
Looked for a vacuum hose loose, found nothing. I checked my throttle cable and it has a lot of slack! Bad part is, the nut to adjust it, is backed all the way out so it's as far as it will go. I thought that would be the issue, but I revved it up from the engine bay using the throttle body controller? (whatever the throttle cable hooks up to), and it still does the same thing. Hesitates and sputters. Happens under 3k, i'd say.
I have to engage now by revving the car up to like 3k now. Once I take off it cruises okay, but when i floor it, pedal to the floor, the car is slower than it was N/A throughout the entire power band. My friend said his knock sensor on his accord causes problems like these, but any ideas? Suggestions? I have a new knock sensor laying around, I hope that's the issue. And how do I tighten the throttle cable? Is there somewhere by the pedal I can tighten it up?
#2
Bend the bracket that holds the nut further back to tighten the cable more.
Check ECU for the 0304 code and that will tell if the Knock Sensor is dead. The KS doesnt not turn on a CEL
Check ECU for the 0304 code and that will tell if the Knock Sensor is dead. The KS doesnt not turn on a CEL
#4
Im sure its the knock sensor.. It felt like a 40whp gain when I replaced mine. No joke.
As for the idle, a bad KS shouldn't cause that.. Make sure your EGR valve diaphram isnt stuck open. Stick your finger under it and make sure it moves up and down freely.
As for the idle, a bad KS shouldn't cause that.. Make sure your EGR valve diaphram isnt stuck open. Stick your finger under it and make sure it moves up and down freely.
#5
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Bend the bracket that holds the nut further back to tighten the cable more.
Check ECU for the 0304 code and that will tell if the Knock Sensor is dead. The KS doesnt not turn on a CEL
Check ECU for the 0304 code and that will tell if the Knock Sensor is dead. The KS doesnt not turn on a CEL
I will be bending this back tonight, thanks. Autozone for me tonight for code checking.
#6
Any kind of SC related incidences like this? If not, I'll probably swing by a regular mech to get it checked out and tell him to ignore all the piping and snail on the side of the engine, lol.
#9
Originally Posted by mforrest100
Autozone??? Man... just go ahead and do it manually. You are a lazy dude. Not working OT tonight so let me know if you want to come back by and we see if we can get this thing situated.
#11
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Autozone prob wont check it if the light isn't on. So do it with the screw. It is faster.
No, what i'm saying is, Nissan sold this car to me with a non-working check engine light. I bought the car in July of 2004. My friend scanned codes after I was braggin about how I never had a CEL and I got knock sensor, and evap code. But I know KS doesn't trip CEL. So I know for sure i'm supposed to get a code since its an auto ECU and i'm 5spd now. And I got no code. So I figure my CEL doesn't work at all. It should have come on 2 weeks ago also when I disconnected the 02 sensor in the rear and started the car. So if I stuck the screwdriver in there i'm pretty sure no CEL is gonna blink on my dash. I need to pay attention and see if it comes on with ACC.
Autozone will do what I tell them to, LMAOO, I'm cool with EVERYONE that works at that autozone so that's why I guess I really have no choice. :sigh:. Too late to complain to Nissan?
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2001
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Posts: 4,521
Why'd you do it TJ? I hate to lose another boosted auto. You convert!
Now how are you supposed to drive, play with your remote control, drink your 44 ounce Code Red and hold your girls hand?
Now how are you supposed to drive, play with your remote control, drink your 44 ounce Code Red and hold your girls hand?
#13
Black smoke is rich, white is lean, and blue or any other colors mean oil is burning heavily or busted seals or something REALLY bad lol.
hope all gets fixed, i just fixed the only issue with my clutch problem after proper bleeding, replacing rubber part of slave cylinder and putting in SS line. I'm happy
hope all gets fixed, i just fixed the only issue with my clutch problem after proper bleeding, replacing rubber part of slave cylinder and putting in SS line. I'm happy
#14
Originally Posted by ptatohed
Why'd you do it TJ? I hate to lose another boosted auto. You convert!
Now how are you supposed to drive, play with your remote control, drink your 44 ounce Code Red and hold your girls hand?
Now how are you supposed to drive, play with your remote control, drink your 44 ounce Code Red and hold your girls hand?
LOL, sorry. I've been called a traitor while I was doing this also, lol. You know why I did it. The dreaded 1-2 second lag waiting for the tranny to shift, lol. I really did it though because my girl and I broke up and I have no need to hold her hand anymore. "we're over? Cool, i'm going 5spd then". LOL.
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
Originally Posted by TJ_Max
LOL, sorry. I've been called a traitor while I was doing this also, lol. You know why I did it. The dreaded 1-2 second lag waiting for the tranny to shift, lol. I really did it though because my girl and I broke up and I have no need to hold her hand anymore. "we're over? Cool, i'm going 5spd then". LOL.
LOL.
Actually, I'll take the dreaded 1-2 lag any day. It's the top end that suuuuuuuuucks with an auto. It pulls mega hard through 1st, mega hard through 2nd and then when it shifts to 3rd......... the party is over.
(I'm actually hoping a VI will solve that though).
Enjoy your new toy. Good luck solving your issue.
#16
Well, I got 4 codes. 2 were because I have the auto ecu in with my 5speed. The other two were knock sensor and iat sensor P0325 and P0110. I luckily bought a knock sensor a few months ago and also have an extra iat sensor. I wonder if it was damaged when I was bleeding my clutch or something. Fluid got on it or something? No clue.
Anyway, I guess i'll post how that goes when I replace them tomorrow night.
Anyway, I guess i'll post how that goes when I replace them tomorrow night.
#19
Knock sensor was dead I believe. I drove the car a couple weeks ago and it was hauling a$$. Everything is fine. Last thing he needs to do is swap in the 96 5 Speed ECU I found him and he will be fine.
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