densetsu

iTrader: (1)

look at the first picture, the only thing that is missing is the piece between the throttle body and the pipe coming up from the intercooler across the front valve cover, i would have connected it to show you but it was locked in my car. in addition to that, the thread titles 'help starting my twin turbo 4th gen' not 'look at the pretty pictures of my twin turbo 4th gen'

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Sounds like you have a major vaccum leak. Show me a picture with everything installed.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Also get an aftermarket midpipe and new hoses for the IACV hose and valve cover hose.

diymaximakid

iTrader: (2)

So let me make sure:
your getting fuel
your getting spark

Chief Brody

iTrader: (2)

Do you have some sort of sump system to for the oil drain?

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

id like to show more pictures but my car is 200 miles away and i dont have any more pictures except what my friend took last night (we had to run there to get the engine hoist so i thought id borrow someones camera and take some pictures). i really cant test anything out until i go back there and then if i need more information or i want to correspond with you guys its not possible because there is no internet there. esentially i will be reading and reading and discussing and discussing until i have to go again and then i will try everything and either come back successful or come back with more feedback.

yes, fuel is there, spark is there, i think kevlo may have something in regards to a vacuum leak, i think its possible due to the design of that black box on the intake that it may have been leaking after the maf before the throttle body resulting in an incorrect afr. but right now i will rule nothing out.

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

im draining both oil returns into the upper oil pan behind where the ac bracket used to be.

Blu

iTrader: (63)

good luck chief....

cld12pk2go

iTrader: (5)

It looks like one of your oil drains is flowing uphill.

This is commonly stated as a "hell no".

Good luck on this interesting project!

Fred Allen Burge

I'm speechless.

Fred

Stillen Maxima

iTrader: (50)

I hope your able to get that bad boy started

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Also do you have and check engine light codes? If so, which ones? Also where is the MAF?

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

code for the air temperature sensor, which is not connected, i dont even know what it looks like because it hasnt been connected since i first made my intake years and years ago.

the maf is located about six inches from the throttle body. at first i had the iacv and valve cover hoses connected before the maf (meaning air coming from outside would hit the hoses before the maf and then throttle body) but thinking that was the problem i adjusted my setup so they would be attached after the maf but before the throttle body. the intake flow is like this: intake on turbos -> through compressor wheels -> out of turbos into a collector pipe -> down fender and bumper into intercooler -> up from intercooler across engine to maf -> through that black box for the iacv and valve cover hoses -> into throttle body.

ive tried to start the car with the turbos bypassed on the intake side, meaning the intake flow was: into maf -> through box for iacv and vc hoses -> into throttle body. the reaction of the engine is the same either way. this means either the problem is occuring between the maf and the throttle body or the problem is elsewhere.

l3ftonm3

iTrader: (2)

Did the MAF die? Just a suggestion might want to try a different one if ya have it. Or check to see if its working correctly.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Try turning it on with the MAF unplugged. Which injectors are you using right now?

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

great work so far!

wunfstmax

iTrader: (7)

Your going to blow the oil seals on your turbo closest to you(while sitting in the car), if you do not find another way for the oil to drain out.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

That is so hard core... This is history in the making folks. Check maf, ecu connections, coil packs, plugs, crank sensor..process of illimination. Hope you figure it out soon. Car won't start if emanage is not configured/updated correctly (my laptop shut off right in the middle of updating the unit once), connect the maf wires regular if it is currently hooked to the emanage.

wunfstmax

iTrader: (7)

Is this one pipe feeding two turbos?

liqidvenom

iTrader: (6)

honestly....this is like the greatest in your face that has even happened on the org since craig macks finished car


great job and i wish you alot of luck with this

diymaximakid

iTrader: (2)

try running like this air filter>maf>coupler>tb
and see if it starts

Zero-K

iTrader: (9)

That sounds like the same problem I had when my MAF died. It would take forever to start and when it did, the second you touch the gas, it would die.
just try it with the MAF unplugged and if you get the same results, chances are, thats what it is.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Alex_V

what about checking the battery location? sounds like you grounded the battery to the chassis, not ran a neg wire to the engine bay. You might want to try putting a battery on the stock connectors and just setting the battey where ever it wont hurt anything and try that. Grounding is strange chit.

~Alex

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

But if the car turns on, it should rev. I highly doubt it is a ground problem.

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

actually, when i was first trying to get the car started (before i had the iacv and vc hoses in the correct place) i had attempted to start the car with the maf disconnected. at that time i wasnt even able to get the car to turn over but with the maf disconnected it did actually turn over a little - not any more than how it is acting now, but in fact quite similar. in addition, i also got it to turn over by disconnecting one of the coil packs on the front cylinder bank, but again it was not turning over any better than it is right now (with the hoses hooked up in the proper location.

im using the stock injectors, the 555's flood the engine because i cant sync my emanage with my laptop and add the correction factor to use them.

are you saying this because of my return line going slightly upward? thats not too difficult of a thing to fix, i can send the line under the pipe its resting on attached to the front most turbo.

i havent done anything to my emanage from when i put it in (basically with a stock motor) except turn the dials for the fuel adjustment to try and get it started. i havent even hooked the ignition harness on yet because i know i cant sync it with my laptop. i may try disconnecting the emanage and running off of the stock ecu fully but i doubt it would make a difference considering the car ran fine before i pulled the motor out.

no, the turbo closest to the firewall is being fed by the rear cylinder bank - if you look closely to where its exhaust input flange is, you can see part of its feed pipe and how it goes back along the heater hose lines, over the rear engine mount (the shield was removed) and then behind and under the rear exhaust manifold. the front-most turbo is fed by the front cylinder bank and the feed pipe goes over the front engine mount and around close to the transmission to mate up with the turbo.

both turbos share the same downpipe, and actually, i didnt have flanges for the downpipe so i welded the downpipe to both turbos, essentially making them one whole piece. the downpipe (pretty easy to see in the pictures, its like a 'Y' with a huge curve going down in between the motor and radiator fans) actually ends right vertically under the front exhaust manifold and connects to another piece that goes back to the cat and the rest of the exhaust system. thus, i can remove my exhaust very close to the turbos if need be (ie. i want to go to the track, make old ladies deaf, etc.)

yeah, the battery is ground to the chassis in the trunk but at the same time the stock neg cable is being used to ground the engine to the chassis in the engine bay so in effect that should work because the cable in the front goes engine->chassis->neg terminal, and now my system is engine->front chassis->rear chassis->neg terminal.

tried that, didnt make a difference.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Have you tried turning it on with the throttle at 1/2 position?

Have you checked the TPS or messed with it any?

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

i havent tried either. do you mean to open the butterfly valve for the throttle body 50% either through the accelerator or the throttle cable adjuster or another way? also, what can i do with the tps besides the diagnostic in the fsm?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Hold the gas pedal half way as you turn on the car.

Check the ohm resistance of the TPS to make sure it is in the FSM specs.

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

nice job.. now get it started.. Adjust TPS (etc.)

chris'smax

iTrader: (3)

. What does your boost guage say as far as vacc at idle? What fuel pressure are you seeing? With 555 cc injectors you are most likely going to need to get the support tool working in order to do the injector conversion.

1st thing i would do is get the support tool cable and get the support tool up and running. Then replace the spark plugs and burn off that excess fuel that is most likely flooded the motor. Next you need to make sure your fp is set in a decent range. It would really help if you had a wide band to help verify what afr you are seeing at idle.

Don't worry man you will get it worked out. I had the same problems when i installed my 510cc's

chris'smax

iTrader: (3)

+1 on that. Also make sure to do the tps setup in the emanage correctly.

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

Look over your cam/crank sensors. When I had a problem with ground of these sensors. The car acted very similar to the way yours is acting. It would seem like its about to start and the rpms would be jumping duing cranking.

MaxInProgress

iTrader: (2)

Wheres the cam/crank sensor located?

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

the cam position sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine above where the pullies sit on the silverish engine cover covering the heads.

there are two crank position sensors, the 'REF' (reads for top dead center) and the 'POS' (reads the position of the crank in degrees), the REF sensor is located near the passenger side of the oil pan facing up into the gap between the crank pully and the upper oil pan/block. the POS sensor is located on the opposing side of the engine - it sits on the front-most edge of the upper oil pan right next to the bell housing of the transmission.

mforrest100

iTrader: (24)

Update please.........

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

nothing to update, i have yet to go see my car again since it is sitting quite far away from where i live and quite an expense to get to.

mforrest100

iTrader: (24)

OK. Well definitely compile all the info everyone has posted since you have been back and take it with you. Good look my man. You should probably inform people where the car is. Local members may not mind coming down to give you a hand or any suggestions you may not have thought of next time you go down.

Mike

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

you could have the vaccum hooked up backwards somewhere. Your car will start with or without the maf so...

Just for reference I started my max with 440cc injectors with no tune or nothing. When I would touch the gas it would chug and die. Is your fuel pump working properly?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

With everyone prasing your work.... I have to ask this question- WHY TWIN TURBOS ? Not only does it look very bad- and the oil lines are routed wrong, but its too complex. They look like T28 turbos to me, and in reality they will spool up later than a T04R does on my SR20- or would on a VQ, I know cause I had a T28 then GT28RS and properly set up big turbo will not be as laggy as some might think. There are no gains from this setup other than saying you are twin turbo.... Props for doing it thou. I was hopping to see custom exhaust manifolds with turbos wedged next to the block.... THAT would be sick.