help starting my twin turbo 4th gen
07-13-2006, 03:08 PM
#1
help starting my twin turbo 4th gen
i completed all fabrication a week ago and i wasnt able to get the car started because i couldnt get my laptop to correspond with my emanage. i have 555cc injectors and i believe the reason its not starting is because its running too rich because the emanage is not able to apply the correction factor for larger injectors. i just drove 2.5 hours from where my car is at to come home and grab my old injectors and before i leave (in like one hour) i hope someone can help me out. i know the emanage (emanage blue) can increase and reduce fuel by +/- 20% with its built-in dials, i tried leaning out the 555 injectors the full 20% but the car still wouldnt turn over. the only thing left i can do (as far as i know) is to throw back in my stock injectors and raise the fuel through those same dials and hope it starts. does anyone have any quick advice to help me out on the situation? ill be sitting here for another hour until i have to leave, at which point my only option will be to put the stock injectors back in and hope for the best. thanks guys, i will provide plenty of pictures when i get my car back so you can see how i got a twin turbo setup to fit.
07-13-2006, 04:02 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 596
Would love to see the pics when you get your car back and dyno numbers, +1 on the first twin turbo max.
07-13-2006, 04:22 PM
#4
Wow I havent been here in a while because my car is outta commision for a bit. Congrats on the first twin turbo setup but that was only half the challange, the other half is getting it to run fine now. Would love to see pictures and setup. As far as your problems, put the stockers back in and raise the FP.
pics!!!!
07-14-2006, 05:43 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Also, when trying to start a flooded engine. The FSM says to push the accel to the floor and then crank the car.
Or pull the fuse to the fuel pump. But then you have to wait for the engine to die and put it back in.
07-16-2006, 05:01 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Awsome I cant wait to see it running! Im planning on maybe running twin turbos on my VQ when I get it in my 240. I read it all before but what turbos did you use?
~Alex
~Alex
07-18-2006, 06:22 AM
#33
Originally Posted by densetsu
i completed all fabrication a week ago and i wasnt able to get the car started because i couldnt get my laptop to correspond with my emanage. i have 555cc injectors and i believe the reason its not starting is because its running too rich because the emanage is not able to apply the correction factor for larger injectors. i just drove 2.5 hours from where my car is at to come home and grab my old injectors and before i leave (in like one hour) i hope someone can help me out. i know the emanage (emanage blue) can increase and reduce fuel by +/- 20% with its built-in dials, i tried leaning out the 555 injectors the full 20% but the car still wouldnt turn over. the only thing left i can do (as far as i know) is to throw back in my stock injectors and raise the fuel through those same dials and hope it starts. does anyone have any quick advice to help me out on the situation? ill be sitting here for another hour until i have to leave, at which point my only option will be to put the stock injectors back in and hope for the best. thanks guys, i will provide plenty of pictures when i get my car back so you can see how i got a twin turbo setup to fit.
07-18-2006, 10:30 AM
#36
Originally Posted by densetsu
im back, let me download the drivers for my friends camera and upload the pictures i got. they will be online shortly with explination of the situation.
Sweet. Did you get it started? Need anymore help on that?
07-18-2006, 11:35 AM
#38
Originally Posted by Alex_V
I read it all before but what turbos did you use?
Originally Posted by diymaximakid
one question? sequ or independent?
Originally Posted by Chief Brody
Do you have the right cable that came with the support tooll? Why would you need to turn up the fuel on the stock injectors just to get it to start?
now that ive addressed the questions let me explain the current situation (you want to see pictures dont you
)...i swapped out the 555's for the stock injectors and we tried to start it but it made no difference at all, it would just crank. after that, we started to second guess if the fuel system was properly connected so in an act of desperation we flipped the fuel feed and return lines thinking we were just dead wrong on them. well, we werent and they were intially hooked up correctly. we attempted to start it two or three times like that until confirming it was intially put on correctly, so we put it back the right way. this brings up my first question, can running the fuel backwards damage anything in the fuel rail?
after that incident, we made sure there was still fuel pressure and indeed, we were getting pressure, and the return was also spitting back fuel as well. i then remembered seeing a small amount of metal shavings magnetically stuck to the crank angle sensor (the one on the transmission side) so i took it off and cleaned off the shavings thinking it may not be getting a proper signal and thus my timing could be off, yet that made no difference in the sound of the motor nor in helping it to start. next, i happened to notice the absolute pressure sensor's hose was not connected so i connected that back to the map/baro solenoid. this made a slight difference in how the motor was acting, now, instead of just combusting maybe 5% of the time, i could get it to combust about 30% of the time, and sometimes it would even begine to turn over.
this is the problem; when it is cranking, rpms will go from 0 to around 100-200, sometimes 300, and when it turns over enough times to get started a little, it will start and i can let go of the key and it will hang at around 1000 rpm for maybe 5 seconds and then it will cut off on its own. i can duplicate this many times and every single time it is the same. also, the only way to get it to start like that is without giving any throttle at all, and if i let it start and i touch the throttle before it dies on its own, it will die immediatly.
now i can account for a couple of things that shouldnt be as they are but i cant see exactly how they can prevent the car from starting. firstly, the front engine mount isnt connected, the bolts are through the crossmember and the engine, but the nuts arent tightened more than with my fingers - i was thinking maybe the vibration from the motor (it does vibrate alot when its turning over and when it starts) could set off the knock sensor or something and prevent the car from function correctly but i cant see how it wouldnt start from that, even if the knock sensor was detected knock from the vibration it would just put the car in safe mode, it should still start.
second, there are two body grounds on the passenger side near the headlight, one is a solid black wire and the other is a bunch of wires crimped onto a single ground connector. i had them both connected in different locations but the single black wire was apparently not grounded well enough and the injectors would tick with the key on 'on' and the motor not being cranked. all the times i got the motor to turn over i had both of those grounds connected in the same spot - truthfully, i have no idea if it makes a difference or not if they are connected in the same spot.
third, i relocated my battery to the back using 2 gauge wire i got from home depot. i dont think this could cause that big of an issue but im going to list everything that could be preventing this car from running. for the positive end of the wire, i just crimped on a connector to the cable running to the back and connected it to the existing positive battery cable in the engine bay via the bolt and nut you use to tighten the battery cable around the terminal on the battery. the negative is grounded to some nut/bolt in the trunk behind the lining.
fourth, you guys know that big black box before the thottle body where those hoses connect? ive tried to run the car with them both before the maf, after the maf, and disconnected, i know stock they are supposed to be after the maf reading and right before the throttle body but when i made all the piping i didnt consider that and made everything for them to be connected before the maf reading. since then, ive connected that stock black box in the correct spot but it doenst seem to make much difference in terms of getting the car started.
also, i forgot to mention that ive tried to run the car both with the turbos and everything connected and also by bypassing the entire intake side and trying to run the car with just a pipe connected to the maf which is connected to that black box and those hoses and then the throttle body. im fully bewildered as to why it will not start that way, any opinions or ideas?
and here are some pictures that my friend took last night. i was going to move my car inside the garage and get pictures from underneath and a video clip of how it sounds when trying to start but being the genius i am i left the keys at home so i wasnt able to do any of that, but at least we got some pictures to prove to you guys this thing actually exists...
