help starting my twin turbo 4th gen
08-02-2006, 01:57 PM
#81
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
With everyone prasing your work.... I have to ask this question- WHY TWIN TURBOS ? Not only does it look very bad- and the oil lines are routed wrong, but its too complex. They look like T28 turbos to me, and in reality they will spool up later than a T04R does on my SR20- or would on a VQ, I know cause I had a T28 then GT28RS and properly set up big turbo will not be as laggy as some might think. There are no gains from this setup other than saying you are twin turbo.... Props for doing it thou. I was hopping to see custom exhaust manifolds with turbos wedged next to the block.... THAT would be sick.
the turbos are not t28's, i know because i own the car they came off of. they are the stock garrett t22's (they use t25 housings) found on the 90-96 300zx twin turbo. since your comment on the potential lag was based off incorrect information, you should be able to see now that the lag will be next to nothing - far less than an sr20 with a t28 - which in fact is a car i have built and driven as well in the past. consider that these turbos come stock off of a vg30dett motor, now being fitted onto a vq30de(tt) they will spool very similar to before. the difference in the vq motor is the compression (which will limit the boost pressure that can be run), superior airflow characteristics (more effecient intake manifold and valves), and superior cooling abilities (more coolant and oil gallies in the shortblock). its a match made in heaven, expect that the t22's are close to 15 years old...
lastly, i agree that it would be truely sick if i could mount them on the manifolds directly but that is not the case right now - the first step is always the most difficult one. once the car is running and i figure out the kinks i will surely be changing many things in my setup to accomodate. in addition, i want to convert the maxima to rear wheel drive, something people may scoff or laugh at, but mark my words - just as i said this could be done i have already begun research on a rwd conversion and it will someday exist. at that time, there should be plenty of space on the lateral sides on the motor to fit the turbos directly on the manifolds, resulting in a far more effecient setup of what i have currently.
but as for now, i need to get the car started - i may be going this weekend... the car is at the eastern shore in maryland, close to the city/town of cambridge. if anyone is interested in coming down as someone previously suggested, pm me so we can get in contact. thank you guys for your assistance...
08-02-2006, 03:00 PM
#82
Originally Posted by densetsu
consider that these turbos come stock off of a vg30dett motor, now being fitted onto a vq30de(tt) they will spool very similar to before.
Originally Posted by densetsu
i want to convert the maxima to rear wheel drive, something people may scoff or laugh at, but mark my words - just as i said this could be done i have already begun research on a rwd conversion and it will someday exist.
08-02-2006, 05:16 PM
#86
Originally Posted by Sprint™
how quick of a spool time are you looking for? i hit full boost at 3200 rpms with Big 18g turbo's
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doubtful. With that plumbing, you'll have a hard time competing for spool time with an engine that had the same turbos sitting inches from the exhaust ports.
08-02-2006, 06:31 PM
#87
Originally Posted by densetsu
i noticed that it could be possible to mount both turbos onto the manifolds directly - it would involve rotating the housings of the turbos to suit but i think they could fit with custom manifolds.
08-02-2006, 07:37 PM
#88
Originally Posted by Sprint™
how quick of a spool time are you looking for? i hit full boost at 3200 rpms with Big 18g turbo's
08-02-2006, 09:06 PM
#89
Home made equal lenght exhaust manifold... straight T4 turbo, still had bout the same lag as a LOG style exhaust manifold on a much smaller T3/T4 turbo.
I didn't know that you ran T22s, I was purely speculating that they where some Ebay turbos off a S14 or S15 which are T28s- judging from the compressor look- which also has a 2 bolt flange on it.
I wish you luck with your car, but in reality if I was building something sick, I would spend the 1K dollars on a GOOD turbo and do it right the 1st time and not have a engine bay that looked like a pumbers nightmare. Someday I might be doing the same to my Maxima, but I have other "vehicles" to worry bout, and they travel on water only.
08-03-2006, 01:00 AM
#90
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
I wish you luck with your car, but in reality if I was building something sick, I would spend the 1K dollars on a GOOD turbo and do it right the 1st time and not have a engine bay that looked like a pumbers nightmare. Someday I might be doing the same to my Maxima, but I have other "vehicles" to worry bout, and they travel on water only.
08-03-2006, 02:32 AM
#91
Originally Posted by densetsu
well, on the z, with 16 pounds i hit full boost at 3200 as well, but im only running 6psi on this setup right now (stock wasgate psi) so i would assume i would hit full boost somewhere in the 2000 rpm range.
.
.
08-03-2006, 04:55 AM
#94
Originally Posted by densetsu
thanks. do you build boats by chance?
08-06-2006, 04:49 PM
#96
it has started, turns out the fuel lines were in reverse 
-i ghetto rigged the alternator belt and it didnt work well and melted so i need to aquire the correct belt.
-i still have to fabricate a midpipe which is easy - i just need a coupling that fits into the throttle body, but i have the pipes and nipples i need.
- i cant run more than 6psi until i get a wire for my emanage so i can change the injectors back to 555's.
besides that, its ready to go (well, minus lights and front bumper...)
oh yeah, the car is now at my house so this has now become a simple affair in terms of time and access.
-i ghetto rigged the alternator belt and it didnt work well and melted so i need to aquire the correct belt.
-i still have to fabricate a midpipe which is easy - i just need a coupling that fits into the throttle body, but i have the pipes and nipples i need.
- i cant run more than 6psi until i get a wire for my emanage so i can change the injectors back to 555's.
besides that, its ready to go (well, minus lights and front bumper...)
oh yeah, the car is now at my house so this has now become a simple affair in terms of time and access.
08-06-2006, 05:40 PM
#97
Originally Posted by densetsu
it has started, turns out the fuel lines were in reverse
-i ghetto rigged the alternator belt and it didnt work well and melted so i need to aquire the correct belt.
-i still have to fabricate a midpipe which is easy - i just need a coupling that fits into the throttle body, but i have the pipes and nipples i need.
- i cant run more than 6psi until i get a wire for my emanage so i can change the injectors back to 555's.
besides that, its ready to go (well, minus lights and front bumper...)
oh yeah, the car is now at my house so this has now become a simple affair in terms of time and access.
-i ghetto rigged the alternator belt and it didnt work well and melted so i need to aquire the correct belt.
-i still have to fabricate a midpipe which is easy - i just need a coupling that fits into the throttle body, but i have the pipes and nipples i need.
- i cant run more than 6psi until i get a wire for my emanage so i can change the injectors back to 555's.
besides that, its ready to go (well, minus lights and front bumper...)
oh yeah, the car is now at my house so this has now become a simple affair in terms of time and access.
08-06-2006, 05:43 PM
#98
it always seems to be something simple when you figure it out. Glad you got it started.
How did it feel driving it back, I believe you said it was 200 miles away? or 100? how did it feel on the high way back?
How did it feel driving it back, I believe you said it was 200 miles away? or 100? how did it feel on the high way back?
08-06-2006, 09:03 PM
#101
Originally Posted by MDeezy
it always seems to be something simple when you figure it out. Glad you got it started.
How did it feel driving it back, I believe you said it was 200 miles away? or 100? how did it feel on the high way back?
How did it feel driving it back, I believe you said it was 200 miles away? or 100? how did it feel on the high way back?
Originally Posted by diymaximakid
how do ghetto rig the alt belt?
08-10-2006, 11:47 AM
#104
weve been messing around with it trying to get it to run smooth, and we found that it is only running on 4 cylinders. tried changing the injectors on those two cylinders and that made no difference - going to check the spark plugs and coil packs later - the harnesses are fine though, they were already tested.
08-10-2006, 12:04 PM
#105
Originally Posted by Sprint™
the Z is a low compression motor... your 3.0L has much higher compression... you would hit full boost even quicker
isn't the max like 10:1 or near that? dunno...
anyways, give us an update man!
08-10-2006, 02:40 PM
#106
Originally Posted by densetsu
weve been messing around with it trying to get it to run smooth, and we found that it is only running on 4 cylinders. tried changing the injectors on those two cylinders and that made no difference - going to check the spark plugs and coil packs later - the harnesses are fine though, they were already tested.
where's my apology b!tches
08-11-2006, 07:13 AM
#109
Originally Posted by d00df00d
If all the electronics (including cam and crank sensors) check out, check your timing. If the chain is off, it can cause cylinders not to fire.
I don't think he opened the motor to do this install
08-11-2006, 02:38 PM
#111
ok, coil packs are good, injectors are good, harness is good, spark plugs are new - still not getting any action in those two cylinders...
if the motor is like this:
_____
|1 2 3|
|-----|
|4 5 6|
/\
Front
then its cylinders number 2 and 4 that are not producing any power. disconnecting the harness on those two cylinders yields no change in engine sound but disconnecting any other cylinder makes a significant change in engine sound. i really cant think of anything that could be causing this besides bad compression. but, the motor had perfect compression before i put the turbos on, and i cant fathom how the compression could deteriorate so far as to cause the cylinders not to combust at all so quickly. i tried to start the car dozens of times with the fuel lines backwards and it did turn over a couple of times like that so maybe that action could have caused some related damage? any ideas?
if the motor is like this:
_____
|1 2 3|
|-----|
|4 5 6|
/\
Front
then its cylinders number 2 and 4 that are not producing any power. disconnecting the harness on those two cylinders yields no change in engine sound but disconnecting any other cylinder makes a significant change in engine sound. i really cant think of anything that could be causing this besides bad compression. but, the motor had perfect compression before i put the turbos on, and i cant fathom how the compression could deteriorate so far as to cause the cylinders not to combust at all so quickly. i tried to start the car dozens of times with the fuel lines backwards and it did turn over a couple of times like that so maybe that action could have caused some related damage? any ideas?
08-11-2006, 02:58 PM
#112
Are you sure you're getting spark to those two?
I believe cylinder order goes:
firewall
135
246
front
If so, your 2/4 is actually 2/3, so you might check this out:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.cfm
I believe cylinder order goes:
firewall
135
246
front
If so, your 2/4 is actually 2/3, so you might check this out:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.cfm
08-11-2006, 04:56 PM
#113
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Are you sure you're getting spark to those two?
I believe cylinder order goes:
firewall
135
246
front
If so, your 2/4 is actually 2/3, so you might check this out:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.cfm
I believe cylinder order goes:
firewall
135
246
front
If so, your 2/4 is actually 2/3, so you might check this out:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.cfm
What he said.. ^ ^ ^ that's the firing order...
You could run another compression check - it's simple enough to do, and it would let you know if you have damaged valves real quick... Sears has compression gauges pretty cheap, if you don't have one. Eyeball your plugs when you pull all of them to run the compression check.
Having this much trouble with such a radical project is a bummer...
08-12-2006, 11:15 AM
#114
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Are you sure you're getting spark to those two?
I believe cylinder order goes:
firewall
135
246
front
If so, your 2/4 is actually 2/3, so you might check this out:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.cfm
I believe cylinder order goes:
firewall
135
246
front
If so, your 2/4 is actually 2/3, so you might check this out:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.cfm
i take it a bad crank sensor could cause problems, especially since the pos sensor detects the crank angle in 1 degree incriments.
08-12-2006, 07:42 PM
#115
Originally Posted by Sprint™
the Z is a low compression motor... your 3.0L has much higher compression... you would hit full boost even quicker
A turbo works on wasted exhaust energy. The higher the compression the less wasted energy (more power is transfered to the piston), therefore less energy for the turbo to recover.
08-12-2006, 07:51 PM
#116
Originally Posted by Maxpwer
I see this myth all the time here on the org, and its very misguided. I dont know how this rumor got started, but let me help you understand why this isnt true.
A turbo works on wasted exhaust energy. The higher the compression the less wasted energy (more power is transfered to the piston), therefore less energy for the turbo to recover.
A turbo works on wasted exhaust energy. The higher the compression the less wasted energy (more power is transfered to the piston), therefore less energy for the turbo to recover.
08-12-2006, 07:52 PM
#117
Originally Posted by densetsu
good link - before i take apart everything to check the timing chain, i checked the cam and crank sensors - on the crank sensor (pos), i couldnt get it to read 5v off of pins 2 & 3 like the fsm states. it reads 1.xx v with the screwdriver in contact and .1x v with nothing in contact as opposed to the stated 5v and 0v respectively. these readings are coming from tapping into the sub harness because the fsm states the sensor must be connected to the harness with the ignition set to 'on' to conduct properly. if i disconnect the sensor, then i get an immediate 5v signal from those two wires meaning the sensor is not functioning correctly (as far as i understand). im getting this info from EC344 - EC346 from the 1998 manual.
i take it a bad crank sensor could cause problems, especially since the pos sensor detects the crank angle in 1 degree incriments.
i take it a bad crank sensor could cause problems, especially since the pos sensor detects the crank angle in 1 degree incriments.
Try to install a working sensor and see if that fixes it before you mess with timing. Swap the sensor with another local car or something.
08-13-2006, 01:15 PM
#119
Originally Posted by JeEvE
Hey, do you have a friend with a gunmetal EVO IV MR (VA tags)? I was going south on I95 and he mentioned that he had a buddy with a twin turbo Maxima, im guessing thats your friend?
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Try to install a working sensor and see if that fixes it before you mess with timing. Swap the sensor with another local car or something.